
Class. 
Book.. 



JJD-I 



4^^ 



S_ 



2^-- 



Copyright 1^^. 



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COPYRIGHT DEPOSre 






i 



Gardening in California 
Landscape and Flower 



Gardening in California 
Landscape and Flower 



By 



John McLaren 

Superintendent of Golden Gate Park 



San Francisco, California 



SAN FRANCISCO 

A. M. ROBERTSON 

1909 



.i'^ 

^^^ 



LIBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 

DEC 28 1908 

^ Copyrignt entry 
CLASS O- XXc, No, 
COPY S. 



Copyright IQ08 

by 
A. M, Robertson 



Printed by 

QCfit fttanUp-Xaplor Company 

San Francisco 

for Sbe l^dilopoliti l^xtti 



Preface 

THIS handbook is respectfully submitted to gardeners in Cali- 
fornia, amateur and professional, as supplementary to, and a 
modification of those excellent treatises and encyclopedias on 
Landscape and Flower Gardening which have become the authorities 
and text-books on the subject, but which were written for the condi- 
tions of climate and season in European countries and the Eastern 
States of our own land. 

In California these conditions are so different, and the possibilities 
of the culture and development of trees, shrubs and flowers are so 
much greater than in Europe or any other of the United States of 
America, that our gardeners have had to do a great deal of original 
investigation and experimental work. The results of such investigation 
and work by the writer are recorded in these pages. 

The difference referred to is well illustrated by the universally 
loved Pansy which, in the Eastern States, is sown in February, flower- 
ing in May or June, while in California it is sown in July and flowers 
from November to May, and also by the Acacia which, in the East, 
is grown in pot in the conservatory, protected by glass and heated by 
artificial heat, whereas, in our State, it grows, a handsome tree, in any 
soil in the open air and flowers in midwinter. 

Although it has been found necessary to treat of the conservatory 
to a certain extent, yet this has been done only as subsidiary to the 
main purpose of the book, the treatment, in the conservatory, of plants 
which are not hardy in the open air locally, being the same here as 
in any other part of the country. It should, however, be kept in view 
that hundreds of trees, shrubs and flowers, which cannot possibly 
exist, in the open air, in those parts of the United States and Europe 
where the climatic conditions are more harsh than here, flourish and 
give grand effects out of doors in California. 

During his gardening experience of thirty-five years in various 
parts of California, but particularly during the past twenty years of 
his superintendency of Golden Gate Park, San Francisco, the author 
has had, from all over the State, a great number of inquiries and 
requests for advice and suggestions. 

These inquiries have become so numerous that it has been prac- 
tically impossible for him to answer them all, and such replies as he 

[V] 



r e I a c e 



has been able to give have necessarily been very brief. He therefore 
believes that his experience, as now embodied in this book, will be of 
interest and perhaps value to those who take delight in the wonderful 
results with which the fertile soil and genial climate of our State 
reward their earnest and loving labor. 

It is believed that the practical value of the work is added to by 
the illustrations which are all from photographs especially taken for 
this purpose. 

In writing the book the author has had the able collaboration and 
assistance of his friend Mr. James C. Fyfe of San Francisco, of which, 
in this place he desires to record his deep and grateful appreciation. 

That this book may give pleasure and be of use to all who strive 
to make our State even more attractive by adding to the beauties of 
its landscape and gardens, is the earnest hope of 

THE AUTHOR. 



[vi 



Contents 



Pa^e 



Preface . 
Chapter i. 



Chapter 2. 

Chapter 3. 

Chapter 4. 

Chapter 5. 

Chapter 6. 

Chapter 7. 

Chapter 8. 

Chapter 9. 

Chapter 10. 
Chapter ii. 
Chapter 12. 
Chapter 13. 
Chapter 14. 
Chapter 15. 

Chapter 16. 
Chapter 17. 
Chapter 18. 
Chapter 19. 



Chapter 20. 

Chapter 21. 
Chapter 22. 



THE LOCATION OF A SITE FOR HOUSE 
AND GARDEN AND THE PRELIMINARY 
PLANS 

PLANNING THE PLEASURE - GARDEN 
AND GROUNDS 

PREPARATION OF THE GROUND 

CONSTRUCTION OF ROADS AND WALKS 

PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING . 

LAWNS 

TREES AND SHRUBS 

CLIMBERS AND TWINERS . 

BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTED 
PLANTS 

PALMS 

FERNS 

BAMBOOS AND GRASSES .... 

SUCCULENTS 

HERBACEOUS AND BEDDING PLANTS 

PONDS, LAKES AND THE WATER 
GARDEN 

PARLOR GARDENING .... 

THE WINDOW BOX 

THE AMATEUR'S CONSERVATORY . 

TREATMENT OF THE COMMON DIS- 
EASES OF, AND INSECTS INJURIOUS 
TO PLANTS 

A FEW EXPLANATIONS AND DIREC- 
TIONS 

SAND RECLAMATION 

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS .... 
[ vii 1 



12 

37 
40 

47 

54 

59 

170 

181 

193 
202 
209 
217 

224 

280 
292 
294 
299 



302 

309 
319 
329 



Illustrations 



Page 

Gateway Shaded by Trees 3 

Outline of Lawn and Grouping of Trees 7 

Grounds Decorated with Pahiis. Cocos Plumosa as Sidewalk 

Tree . . . • 9 

Cottages with Lawns in Front. Fan Palms ( Washingtonia So- 

norea) as Sidewalk Trees 15 

Planting List, for Lot 25' x 120' 20 

Planting List, for Lot 40' x 120' 21 

Planting List, for Lot 50' x 150' 22 

Planting List, for Lot 75' x 150' 23 

Planting List, for Lot 100' x 180' 25 

Planting List, for Lot 150' x 200' 27 

Planting List, for Lot 200' x 350' 29 

Planting List, for Lot 300' x 400' 31 

Planting List, for Ten-Acre Tract 34> 35 

Walk with Rustic Benches. Background of Pines and Firs . 41 
Formal Gardening. Walks Converging to Fountain. Back- 
ground Heavily Wooded 43 

Driveway Showing California Laurel (to Left of Illustration), and 

Oaks; also Ivy-Covered Stump 45 

Walk Lined with Dracaenas 46 

Moving a Palm 35 Feet High and Weighing Over 40 Tons. 

Wine Palm of Chile (Jubea spectabilis) . . . . 49 

Lawn Outline. Eucalyptus and Conifers 53 

Lawn with Tree Groups 55 

Abelia rupestris 59 

Abies Morinda 60 

Abies Mertensiana 61 

Albizzia Julibrissin 63 

Abutilon 64 

Acacia armata 65 

[ix] 



Ill 



ustrations 



Acacia lophanta 

Achania malvaviscus 

Azalea 

Bouvardia 

Buxiis 

Callistemon 

Camellia . 

Cassia 

Casiiarina 

Ceanothiis 

Cedrns Libani. (Young 

Portugal Laurel 

Cercis 

Cestrum 

Choisya ternata 

Cistus 

Clianthus puniceus . 

Cotoneaster 

Cupressus Lawsoniana 

Cupressus Nutkatensis — the Alaskan Species 

Broom 



Datura suaveolens 

Echium 

Erica persoluta alba 

Escallonia rosea 

Eucalyptus ficifolia 

Eugenia latifolia 

Fabiana 

Ficus elastica . 

Fraxinus excelsior 

Gardenia . 

Hypericum 

lochroma tubulosa 

Juniperus Chinensis 



Specimen 



Page 
65 
67 

71 
74 
75 
76 

77 
79 
80 
80 
81 
82 
83 
83 
84 

84 
86 

8g 
90 

91 
93 
94 
96 

97 
99 

lOI 

104 
106 
107 
no 
III 

116 
118 

120 



[x] 



Ill 



ustrations 



Lantana 

Lasiandra macrantha 

Leptospermum . 

An Arbor of Leptospe 

Libocedrus decurrens 

Ligustrum Japonicum 

Magnolia stellata 

Melaleuca leucadendron 

Mespilns Japonica . 

Metrocederos robusta 

Nandina domestica 

Philadelphus 

Pimelia rosea . 

A Group of Pines . 

Pittosporum undulatum 

Polygala Dalmaisiana 

Prunus sinensis 

Punica granatum 

Pyrus floribunda 

Quercus suber . 

Rhododendron 

Romneya Coulterii 

Sequoia gigantea 

Spartium junceum 

Spirea 

Streptosolen 

Swainsonia 

Syringa vulgaris 

Taxodium 

Thuya gigantea 

Torreya Coulterii 

Ulmus 

Veronica decussata 

Viburnum tinus 



rmum 



laveasratum 



13 



Page 
122 

123 

124 

127 
128 
130 
I-I33 
134 
135 
137 
140 
142 

143 
144 
146 

147 
148 
148 

153 

160 
161 
162 
164 

165 
166 
167 
168 



[Xi] 



Illustrations 



Page 

Virgilia lutea 169 

Bignonia cherere . 171 

Bougainvillea 172 

Clematis 172 

Lathy rus odoratus 175 

Lonicera 176 

Mandevillea suaveolens 177 

Muehlenbeckia complexa 178 

Wistaria 180 

Agapanthus 181 

Iris 184 

Narcissus 187 

Cocos plumosa as Sidewalk Tree 195 

Phcenix Canariensis 197 

Natural Group of Washingtonias (California Fan Palm) . . 199 

Group of Tree Ferns 203 

Ferns and Grasses in Rockery 207 

Bamboos 211 

Pampas Grass 215 

Aloe vera 218 

Echeveria 220 

Crassula coccinea 221 

Mesembryanthemum spectabilis 222 

Sedum 223 

Ageratum 225 

Begonia vernon 230 

Campanula carpathica 2^^ 

Canna indica 234 

Cineraria hybrida 237 

Dahlia imperialis 239 

Digitalis 244 

Doronicum 244 

Fuchsia 245 

Specimen of Fuchsia 247 

[xii] 



Illustration 



Page 

Stock 255 

Pentstemon 261 

Petunia 262 

Poinsettia 265 

Primula obconica 266 

Verbena 275 

Pansy 276 

Small Lake with Pampas Grass 283 

Small Lake Bordered with Willow and Pine 287 

Pond with Lilies 289 

Babylonian Willow 291 

Window Boxes 295 

Interior of Greenhouse 300 

Canary Islands Date Palm 308 

Formal Gardening with Grass Walks 321 

Eucalyptus in Sand Near Coast 323 

Albizzia Julibrissin in Flower 327 

Deciduous Oaks 331 

Terraced Front. Camphor Trees on Sidewalk ... 337 

Lawn and Driveway 343 

Hedge Front, Clipped Trees and Palms 351 

Formal Approach, with Italian Cypress 359 

Summer House. Standard Roses on Border of Path . . . 365 

Group of Varieties of Palms 373 



[ xiii ] 



The Location of a Site 



CHAPTER I. 

THE LOCATION OF A SITE FOR HOUSE AND GARDEN, AND THE 
PRELIMINARY PLANS. 

AS the location and laying out of the grounds which he 
has to cultivate are important factors in the success of 
the gardener in California, as elsewhere, a few practical 
suggestions upon these points are deemed advisable and in keep- 
ing with the general plan of the book. 

Before the best selection can be made, one must have a gen- 
eral knowledge not only of the locality where he intends his home 
and garden to be, but also of its surroundings. Many important 
points should be taken into consideration — especially the aspect 
and the altitude, — in deciding whether the top of a hill, or a hill- 
side, or a flat, low, sheltered spot is to be preferred. 

How much not only the locality but also the aspect, (that is 
whether facing the North, South, East or West) affects the cul- 
ture of the garden can scarcely be appreciated by those who have 
not studied this very important subject. For example, few may 
realize the difference, in the one point of shelter, between a gar- 
den laid out facing the North and one facing the South, or (par- 
ticularly in San Francisco where the prevailing wind in the 
Summer season is from the West) between a garden facing the 
East and one laid out so as to face the West. 

In choosing a site for a dwelling-house and garden, an aspect 
facing the South or South-east should be preferred, as it will be 
better sheltered from the prevailing winds and have a much 
warmer temperature than one facing the West or North. Land 
facing the South will have earlier flowers, and may be more com- 
fortably visited and enjoyed at all seasons, as the ground and 

[I] 



Gardening in California 



walks will dry more quickly after watering or after rains than 
they would if facing the North. 

Another exceedingly important point to be kept in view is 
that water — and water in abundance — must be provided for a 
garden, for unless there is an ample supply during our long Sum- 
mer, gardening in general cannot be successful. Therefore it is 
necessary before selecting a site for the garden, to see that water 
may be had in generous quantities and at all times, either from 
wells, by pipe from reservoir, or by ditch from stream. In the 
neighborhood of cities and large towns it may be procured from 
public works, and, of course, within the cities, water can be had 
in any reasonable quantity desired, but in the country, or where 
there are no public pipes in the vicinity, wells will have to be 
bored or dug, or a supply procured by the other means suggested. 

After the site is selected, the next study should be the pre- 
liminary plan for the improvement of the ground, the first and 
most important point to be decided being upon what part of the 
site the dwelling-house shall be built. This requires long and 
careful study, for the ground must be visited frequently and at 
different times of the day, in stormy weather as well as when 
the days are warm and sunny. Consideration must be given to' 
the views that may be enjoyed from the windows of the different 
rooms, and, in connection with this, it is necessary to anticipate 
the possible use to which the adjoining properties may be put, 
especially as to whether there is a likelihood of buildings being 
erected so as to interfere with or be a blot upon expected 
views. Then if there are any objectionable features on 
neighboring properties, this is the time when the plans 
should be prepared so that, in the arrangement of the build- 
ing and planting of the grounds, these objectionable points may 
be shut off from view as much as possible. 

When the part of the grounds upon which the house is to be 
built has been determined, it should be staked off with strong 
stakes, (say four-inch by four-inch pine), driven in three feet 

[2] 




Gateway Shaded by Trees. 



The Preliminary Plans 



and standing five feet above the ground, so that the four corners 
of the proposed house may be seen from some distance, and that 
thus the effect of the building may be studied from the street, or, 
if the grounds are of large extent, from different points along the 
lines of the projected drive or walks leading to the building. 
Where very large grounds are to be laid out, flags set on tall 
poles will be necessary to properly define the outlines when view- 
ing the effect from a distance, and, at this time also, the sites 
for stables and any other necessary outbuildings should be 
staked off in similar way. It is hardly necessary to say that such 
buildings as the stables must be placed at the rear of the house. 

The house must, of course, be connected, by either a walk or 
driveway or both, with the street or public road, and an entrance 
gateway provided at the most convenient and effective part of 
the frontage, so the next step to take is to determine where the 
main gateway shall be located. This, if possible, should be at a 
point where the street or public road is on the same level. 

After the spot for the gateway is located, the approach to 
the house should be staked off by a center line of stakes. The 
principal roadway should be carefully studied from every possible 
point, that is, from the house site, from the gateway and from 
other points where the effect will be seen, no pains being spared 
to insure this being planned out in the best possible manner and 
along the best possible line. When the grounds are of consider- 
able extent, it should also be made sure that a glimpse of the 
house will be had from one or two points along the road. The 
side lines for the principal roadway should then be staked off, 
these, if a driveway, being at least sixteen feet apart, or, if a 
foot-path, not less than eight feet. The stakes should be at least 
one and one-quarter inch square and about three feet in length, 
and driven one foot deep, leaving two feet above the ground to 
mark the lines of the proposed drive or walk. 

After the principal approach to the house-site has been 
decided upon and staked out, the necessary walks and roads 

[5] 



Gardening in California 



connecting the house-site with the sites of the stables and other 
outbuildings must be marked and staked in similar way as for the 
main approach. It is strongly urged that care should be taken 
to have these walks in reasonably direct lines, for unless they are 
direct, they will not be followed, and those who are compelled 
to go to these outbuildings many times a day will be sure to make 
short cuts, trampling down grass and perhaps fine shrubbery, such 
foot-paths and trails always giving an uncared-for effect and 
being blemishes in any property. 

Before beginning the planting of the trees and shrubs for 
sheltering and ornamenting the grounds, (this subject being fully 
considered in other chapters) the grounds should be carefully sur- 
veyed and platted, the house-site, the sites of the outbuildings, the 
approach and roads of all kinds being marked on the plat. 

When the grades and positions of the different buildings have 
been established and marked, and the approach and other roads 
staked off, all the building-sites should be roughly graded, and 
the fills, if any, on the roadways and walks leveled up. 

But first, before beginning this rough grading, careful pro- 
vision must be made for saving all of the good top-soil which may 
be found on the sites of the buildings, the roads and the walks. 
The importance of this will be realized when the work of plant- 
ing the ground is taken up and when this good top-soil will be 
of the greatest value. How often do we find that this exceedingly 
valuable natural soil has been carelessly used for making fills or 
road-beds and embankments, instead of having been saved for 
improving the many pieces of poor soil for which this natural 
top-soil would have been the covering. Every yard of such good 
soil saved from grading operations can be used at some point of 
the grounds where trees, shrubs and plants are to be set out. 

After the survey of the grounds has been platted, (as sug- 
gested above, the sites of the main building and outhouses as 
well as the lines of the roads and walks being marked on that 
plat), the next important work will be preparing the plan of 

[6] 



The Preliminary Plans 



planting, and this, in its turn, will require the most careful 
consideration. 

If the grounds, which are to be planted, are exposed, strong- 
growing hardy trees which will stand the harsh, drying winds 
will have to be selected for the outer planting or sheltering 
groups, reliance being placed upon these hardy, sturdy, vigorous 




Outline of Lawn and Grouping of Trees. 



growers to give shade and shelter to those tender but more orna- 
mental kinds which cannot stand so much exposure. 

Should the site be well sheltered naturally by trees or by 
neighboring hills, or should it be in a flat open country, it 
will not be necessary to plant the common, hardy trees in such 
large numbers for that purpose. 

In preparing the plan of planting, care should be taken to 
connect the different groups under one general plan, and not to 
gather the trees and shrubs in spots or in stiff, formal lines at 
equal distances apart. Perhaps the best place from which to 

[7] 



Gardening in Californi 



study the plan (of planting and grouping the trees and shrubs) 
is from the house-site, the effect being judged from the points on 
the house-site where the principal windows and doors and veran- 
das will be. When the grounds are large enough, the main lawns 
or grass plots will, of course, be located immediately about the 
house, and the groups of trees with their undergrowth of shrubs 
can be massed round and about the lawns, these forming the out- 
lines for the grassy surface. These outlines should be made as 
informal as the nature and size of the grounds will permit. Bold 
points of trees and shrubbery should project into the lawn space, 
and again the grassy surface should be allowed to run deep into, 
as if getting lost among, the tree groups, the plan always avoid- 
ing anything formal either in the shape of the grassy inlets or 
of the shrubbery groups. 

In this connection it is suggested that some consideration be 
given to what may be termed the happy accidents of Nature's 
planting, for in some of the untouched virgin spots in Nature's 
garden there are scenes more soft and more beautiful than any- 
thing our gardening has yet produced. Those who have under- 
taken to do what we are now considering — that is, to plant a 
pleasure-garden and lawns — and are in doubt as to how to estab- 
lish the lines of the lawns or the groups of trees, shrubs and 
flowers, may get invaluable suggestions as to how to arrange 
them in harmonious composition if they will do as our best 
painters do, — namely, go into the natural forests of our hills and 
hillsides, or the meadows and haughs of our valleys, and select, 
from the innumerable beautiful scenes, the one whose beauty most 
appeals to them and which seems to best fit the general outline 
of the site for which the plans are being prepared. Then let the 
measurements of this part of Nature's garden be carefull)^ taken, 
figuring what are its length, and its breadth ; what are the depth 
and width of the grassy bays which seem to meander through the 
Forest; also the form and shape which these bays assume. It 
will be found that Nature seldom runs straight lines and 



The Preliminary Plans 



shaped curves. Let the woody promontories be measured, figur- 
ing how far each one projects into the meadow and noting how 
Nature has done its planting, — how far one tree is from the 
other, and how harmonious the whole plan is. 

After having sketched into a rough map all of the trees with 
their names and characteristics, the different shrub-growths should 
next be similarly studied and sketched in, especially noting how 
they are distributed. After these, and any other data which 
seem to be of importance in the general effect, are carefully 
platted, let this rough sketch be laid out to scale and reduced or 
enlarged to fit the plan for the proposed grounds. If the propor- 
tions of the original are faithfully carried out and imitated in 
the form and outlines of the lawns and in the character and 
planting of the trees and undergrowths, the result will be a 
delight to the owner and an artistically laid out property. 

There are numerous instances of such spots in our Redwood 
Forests and in the Sierras. Some of the sweetest landscapes are 
to be found in these mountain meadows, and they always afford 
the greatest delight to the eye of taste when they are unexpect- 
edly discovered, enriched, as they are, with beds and tufts of 
wildflowers, grasses and ferns. 

The form and outlines of the different groups of shelter-belts 
being platted, the next points to decide will be what to plant in 
each, and what character of picture is desired. This is treated 
in detail in chapter 2, but, when preparing the plan of planting, 
it should be considered of the utmost importance to break and 
soften the hard lines of groups by planting single trees apart 
from the main bodies in the groups. 



/ 



[II] 



Gardening in California 



CHAPTER 11. 

PLANNING THE PLEASURE-GARDEN AND GROUNDS. 

THE subject of this chapter is one which should receive 
very careful consideration before the work is actually 
begun, and a detailed Plan of planting should be 
sketched out, especially keeping in view what the effect of the 
trees, shrubs and plants will be when they reach maturity. What 
that plan of planting actually may be depends very greatly upon 
how the ground is located. 

If the site selected is on a hill, the character of the planting 
will be entirely different from that of a location on a level plain, 
where the situation is more likely to be well sheltered and favored 
with a deep, rich soil. 

In this, as in every work we undertake, the first thing to be 
considered is the end in view, and the next the best means of 
attaining that end. As, in the planting of a Pleasure-Garden 
and Grounds, the end to be attained is how the trees and plants 
shall be most effectively placed, (both that they themselves shall 
appear to the best advantage, and also that each tree, and group 
of plants and shrubs shall contribute its full proportion to the 
effective laying out of the property as a whole), in order to attain 
that end, it is necessary to take advantage of every point in the 
natural formation of the location. 

As has just been stated, the character of the planting on a 
hillside site is very different from that on a site located in a shel- 
tered valley. On a hillside site the ground is seldom of an even 
nature, there frequently being projecting points of land or rocky 
outcroppings showing through the surface. These projecting 
points should be ornamented with hardy, strong-growing trees 

[12] 



Planning the Ground 



such as the Pine, Eucalyptus, Acacia, Cypress, Redberry and 
others of this class. No shrub, either exotic or indigenous, is so 
well adapted to the planting of a rocky ridge or in the foreground 
of hillside groups as our native Holly (Heteromeles arbutifolia). 
Another native which groups well in any such situation is our 
evergreen shrub Oak. Like the Redberry, its leaf has a good 
color, it has a semi-drooping habit of growth, it is evergreen and 
grows on dry banks on any exposure either North, South, East 
or West, excepting within a mile from the ocean, where, if fac- 
ing the West and much exposed, it is apt to get wind-blown and 
generally does not thrive so well. 

Where a shrubbery effect is desired and the soil is rich, some 
other shrub must be substituted, as the effect of a good soil will 
be to force the Oak into tree shape and to grow too large for a 
shrub effect, but where the soil is of a loose, rocky nature, and 
not too rich, the evergreen native shrub Oak gives one of the best 
effects possible without cultivation or irrigation. 

These hardier trees are recommended also for planting on the 
outer lines of grounds of the extent of about one acre or over, or 
on those portions of a Pleasure-Garden which are much exposed 
or beyond the reach of the hose, and, as already suggested, they 
can be planted at any parts where the soil is poor. 

For the planting of groups or clumps to be located immedi- 
ately about the lawns or near hydrants where they can be 
watered, a much larger variety of trees and shrubs may be 
drawn from, the Bamboo, the Birch, the Maple, the Hawthorn, 
the Lilac, the Laurel and many others giving character and com- 
pleteness to the composition. 

Where the grounds are as large as from three to four acres, 
separate groups of each genus should be planted. For instance, 
exceedingly effective groups can be formed by planting a mass 
consisting of three or four varieties of Pines; another of Euca- 
lyptus in variety ; another of Spruce and Fir ; another of a vari- 
ety of evergreen Oaks; another of our native Laurel; another 

[13] 



Gardening in California 



of Redwood; another of Cedar, and so on; and again, these 
may be planted so as to form combinations. Such trees as the 
Maple and Sycamore, or Cedar (Thuya) and Coast Redwood 
combine beautifully, but it must be particularly kept in view 
that grouping round-headed trees with those which are of 
pyramidal habit is a mistake. Round-headed trees must be 
grouped with those of the same habit, and pyramidal trees with 
those of similar form, the effect always being pleasing, but mix- 
ing those two shapes in the same group mars the effect and ruins 
the composition. 

Evergreens and deciduous trees harmonize very well in a 
group, provided they are of the same shape and outline. For 
instance, a group formed by combining the Bamboo with the 
Birch is most pleasing, both of these being of the same graceful 
semi-pendulous habit. 

It should, then, be remembered, in massing groups of trees 
for planting, that form and habit should be studied much more 
closely than any other quality. 

In planning the groups it may be found desirable and effec- 
tive to form some entirely of evergreens, others entirely of de- 
ciduous trees and shrubs, and others of a mixture of both, a very 
good combination being a group of our native Laurel and the 
European Linden, because both are of the same graceful habit 
of growth. 

The same rule applies to the planting of shrubbery masses; 
the stiff and the formal should never be associated with the 
rounded, free-spreading kinds, — that is, the kinds whose limbs 
spread wide and rest gracefully on the surface of the lawn. 

In the disposition of a number of sorts of trees and shrubs 
in the landscape, the same principle must be followed in produc- 
ing variety and harmony. If they are mixed together in a 
haphazard way, the results will very rarely be pleasing, but, 
at the same time, monotony must be guarded against. For 
example, groups of Oaks should not be followed by groups of 

[14] 



Planning the Ground 



headed trees, but rather by a mass formed of such trees as the 
Californian Laurel, while next to the Laurel might come the 
Poplar or some other tree of similar column-shaped head and 
symmetry. Then again, when groups meet, they might some- 
times be blended together. For example, a group of Oaks, 
adjoining a group of Californian Laurels, might be blended into 
the Laurel group, by the Oaks being planted so as to overlap the 
Laurels and the Laurels the Oaks, as is to be found in natural 
groups. 

The same rule applies to shrubs and even to flowers at the 
extreme points of the groups. 

When a group of Pines adjoins a group of Live Oaks, it is 
always desirable to blend the two at the junction of the one 
with the other, care being taken to avoid regular progression and 
everything like formality, and it being borne in mind that 
grounds laid out according to simple plans are generally much 
more pleasing than those laid out on overpretentious lines. 

After the walks and drives are laid out (this subject being 
fully treated in chapter 4) the next important work should be 
the mapping of the water-pipe system. 

For a garden of about four acres in extent, a two-inch main 
will be necessary. This main should be laid along the middle 
of the ground with one and one-half inch branches laid at right 
angles from the main, about one hundred feet apart from each 
other, (the first branch from the main to be laid fifty feet from 
the fence line), and with stand-pipes and connections to fit the 
hydrants also one hundred feet apart, so that any part of the 
garden may be reached with a single fifty-foot length of hose. 

How often do we see both amateur and professional gar- 
deners struggling to reach some favorite which unfortunately 
has been planted just out of reach of the last length of hose! 
It should always be borne in mind that water-pipe, even of the 
best quality, is much cheaper than hose ; also that iron pipe lasts 
in the ground at least twenty years, whereas the life of the 

[17] 



Gardening in California 



average rubber hose never exceeds two years, and very often is 
not more than one year. 

Where a good pressure may be had from public water-works 
and when the supply is steady and reliable, it may not be neces- 
sary to construct a water-tank, but, where pumping has to be 
resorted to, or the public supply is liable to be shut off at times, 
it is well to have a water-tank erected. The tank should be of 
generous dimensions, and should be placed at least sixty feet 
above the level of the grounds to be irrigated. Of course, a lower 
tower would give some pressure, but the higher the source of 
the water supply and the nearer it is placed to the point of dis- 
tribution the better the results and the shorter the time required 
to water or sprinkle the grounds, so, on the score of economy as 
well as efficiency, the tank should be placed at least sixty feet in 
height. 

It has been deemed advisable to introduce a few planting 
plans, suitable for lots and gardens of various sizes, not neces- 
sarily to be rigidly adhered to in every particular, but to be used 
as suggestions. 

Many additional species, or their varieties, may be substi- 
tuted for or added to the suggestions, care being taken however 
that the principal plantings shall be of such species as are known 
to succeed and do well in the locality. It should be borne in 
mind that many species flourish in warm sunny portions of the 
State while others give best results in the cool atmosphere of 
the coast regions ; for instance, as stated in the text, the Oleander 
is not recommended for the cool climate of San Francisco while 
the Fuchsia attains in that vicinity its most perfect growth. 



[18 



Planting Plans 



Gardening in Californi 





Planting List 
For Lot 25' X 120'. 



Group No. 



I 
2 

3 
4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
II 
12 

13 
14 

15 
16 

17 
18 

19 
20 
21 



Acacia Melanoxylon. 

Veronica decussata. 

Choisya ternata. 

Roses. 

Buxus sempervirens. 

Viburnum tinus. 

Clianthus puniceus. 

Lilac. 

Climbing Rose. 

Escallonia. 

Diervillea. 

Coprosma Baueriana and Spanish Broom. 

Cupressus Lawsoniana. 

Crataegus oxyacantha rubra. 

Deutzia. 

Myrtle. 

Euonymus. 

Pittosporum. 

Ligustrum Japonicum. 

Erica Mediterranea. 

Climbing Roses. 



[ 20 



Planting List 



Planting List 
For Lot 40' X 120'. 



Group No. 


I. 


Sugar Maple or Sterculia. 


2. 


Phoenix reclinata or Brahea sonorge. 


3- 


Myrtle. 


4- 


Pittosporum tobira. 


5- 


Etionymus Japonica aurea. 


6. 


Escallonia rubra. 


7- 


Choisya ternata. 


8. 


Veronica decussata. 


9- 


Climbing Roses and Geraniums. 


10. 


Magnolia grandiflora and Perennial 




Phlox. 


II. 


Coprosma Baueriana and Violets. 


12. 


Cestrum auranticum. 


13- 


Cerassus lauro-cerassus. 


14. 


Roses, 


15- 


Arbutus unedo. 


16. 


Lilac. 


17- 


Acacia mollissima. 


18. 


Leptospermum lavsegatum. 


19. 


Philadelphus. 


20. 


Acacia dealbata. 


21. 


Spiraea bridal wreath. 


22. 


Aucuba Japonica. 


23- 


Roses. 


24. 


Calistemon. 


25- 


Spartium junceum. 


26. 


Fuchsia. 


27. 


Plumbago. 


28. 


Flower Border. 







S/0£ IV^i.A- 



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[21 I 



Gardening in California 



Planting List 
For Lot 50' X 150'. 

Group No. 

1. Phoenix Canariensis. 

2. Border of Violets or Ivy or 

Creeping Juniper. 

3. Climbing Roses, Honeysuckle, 

Clematis, etc. 

4. Choisya ternata. 

5. Veronica decussata. 

6. Aralia Seiboldii. 

7. Bougainvillaea. 

8. Walk. 

9. Aucuba. 

10. Viburnum tinus grandiflora. 

11. Pittosporum. 

12. Grevillea robusta. 

13. Euonymus and Pyrus Ja- 

ponica. 

14. Acacia Cultriformis and Lilac. 

15. Acacia mollissima. 

16. Escallonia rosea and Phila- 

delphus. 

17. Acacia dealbata and Spiraea. 

18. Thuya gigantea. 

19. Leptospermum lavsegatum and 

Diervillea. 

20. Bamboo. 

21. Coprosma Baueriana. 

22. Boxwood. 

23. Aucuba Japonica. 







c^tiSKJssM^; 



50' x 150' 



[22] 



Planting List 




Group No. 



S/0£l^/JL/< 



75' X 150' 

Planting List 
For Lot 75' X 150'. 

Group No. 

1. Huntingdon Elm. 

2. Retinospora obtusa. 



3- 


Pittosporum etigenoides. 


4- 


Escallonia rosea. 


5- 


Choisya ternata. 


6. 


Euonymus Japonica aurea 


7- 


Coprosma Baueriana. 


8. 


Bamboo. 


9- 


Buxus sempervirens. 


10. 


Wistaria. 


II. 


Aucuba sempervirens. 


12. 


Roses. 


13- 


Viburnum tinus. 


14. 


Roses. 


15- 


Acacia armata. 


16. 


Grevillea robusta. 


17- 


Cerassus lauro-cerassus. 


18. 


Cerassus lauro-cerassus. 


19. 


Lilac. 


20. 


Lawson Cypress. 


21. 


Philadelphus. 


22. 


Poplar. 


23- 


Acacia latifolia. 


24. 


Hawthorn and Diervillea. 


25- 


Birch and Leptospermum. 


26. 


Linden and Acacia fra- 




grans. 


27. 


Corynocarpus. 


28. 


Ligustrum and Broom. 


29. 


Cestrum. 


30- 


Portugal Laurel. 


31- 


Roses and Eugenia latifolia. 


32. 


Rhododendron Catawbi- 




ense. 


33- 


Maytenus boaria. 


34. 


Callistemon. 


35- 


Magnolia grandiflora and 




Hydrangea. 


36. 


Photinia arbutifolia. 


37- 


Daphne and Spiraea. 



[23] 



Gardening in California 



Planting List 

For Lot loo' X i8o'. 
Group No. 

1. Sugar Maple, Camphor or red Hawthorn. 

2. Magnolia grandiflora and Aucuba Japonica. 

3. Juniperus prostrata. 

4. Juniperus prostrata. 

5. Three plants of Retinospora in each bed, carpeted with flowers. 

6. Pittosporum eugenoides. 

7. Specimen plants of Boxwood or Laurus nobilis. 
Heliotrope, Violets, Pansies, etc. 
Standard Roses. 

Clematis, Bignonia, Fuchsia, etc. 

Fence covered with Honeysuckle, Climbing Roses, etc. 
Mandevillea suaveolens, Solanum Wendlandii, etc. 
Climbing Roses, Passion Vine, etc. 
Monterey Cypress. 

Pepper, Spiraea Watersii and Romneyii Coulterii. 
Acacia mollissima and Diervillea. 
Libocedrus decurrens and Spartium juncem. 
Wistaria and Bisfnonia. 



9 
10 
II 
12 

13 
14 
15 
16 

17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 

23 
24 

25 
26 
27 
28 
29 

30 
31 

32 



Wistaria and Bignonia Tweediana. 
Pittosporum tobira and Streptosolen. 
Ligustrum Japonicum and Pimelia rosea. 
Escallonia rosea. Lilac and Prunus mume. 
Portugal Laurel and Philadelphus. 
Hedge of Pittosporum nigrum. 
Euonymus Japonica aurea. 
Carnations, Violets, etc. 
Climbing Roses. 

Mandevillea suaveolens, Phlox, etc. 
Rhododendron Catawbiensis. 
Climbing Roses, Delphinum, etc. 
Arbutus unedo and Ilex aquifolia. 
Coprosma Baueriana. 



[24] 



ST^&AT 



24 




S/DSIA//Jl/< 



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1^ 



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loo' X i8o' 



Gardening in California 



Planting List 
For Lot 150' X 200'. 

Group No. 

1. Specimen plants of Boxwood. 

2. Retinospora obtusa. 

3. Choisya ternata and Diosma ericoides. 

4. Veronica decussata and Pimelia rosea. 

5. Coprosma Baueriana and Aucuba Japonica. 

6. Camphor and Abelia. 

7. Rhododendron or Nerium splendens. 

8. Wistaria, shading pergola. 

9. Bamboo. 

10. Portugal Laurel and Acacia mollissima. 

11. Specimen plants of Laurus tinus or Laurus nobilis, 

12. Acacia latifolia and Philadelphus coronaria. 

13. Lilac and Myrtle. 

14. Albizzia julibrissin and Spartium junceum. 

15. Pittosporum eugenoides. 

16. Hawthorn and Spiraea bridal wreath. 

17. Hedge of Ligustrum Japonicum. 

18. Huntingdon Elm or Acacia Melanoxylon. 

19. Roses and other flowering plants. 

20. Roses, Carnations, etc. 

21. Fuchsias, Hydrangeas, etc. 

22. Fruit Trees. 

23. Pepper. 

24. Monterey Cypress. 

25. Geraniums. 

26. Lawn. 



[26 




Stz^&z.^- 



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r3 



18 



150' X 200'' 



Gardening in California 

Planting List 

For Lot 200' X 350'. 
Group No. 

I. Phoenix Canariensis and Honeysuckle. 
2 

3 



4 

5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 
II 

12 

13 

14 
15 
16 

17 
18 

19 
20 
21 
22 

23 

24 

25 
26 

27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 



Bamboo. 

Choisya ternata and Daphne. 
Choisya ternata and Duranta plumiera. 
Bamboo. 

Coprosma Baueriana. 
Pittosporum eugenoides and Sweet Briar. 
Maytenus boaria and Diosma alba. 
Maytenus Chilense and Sollya Drumondii. 
Clematis Jackmanii and Ivy Geranium. 
Clematis Jackmanii and Ivy Geranium. 
Veronica decussata and Viola cornuta. 
Mandevillea suaveolens and Fuchsia. 
Wistaria and red Geranium. 
Coronilla glauca and Cytissus racemosa. 
Myrtle and Carnations. 

Juniperus Chinensis and Juniperus prostrata. 
Rhododendron. 

Camellia and Gardenia Fortuneii. 
Ampelopsis Veitchii and flowering plants. 
Retinospora obtusa and Pimelia rosea. 
Roses. 

Pittosporum eugenoides and Corynocarpus lavaegatus. 
Escallonia Montevidiensis and Honeysuckle. 
Bamboo. 

Arbutus unedo and Boxwood. 
Heteromeles serratifolia. 
Camphor and Jasminum nudiflorum. 
Hymenosporum flavum and Roses. 
Ligustrum Japonicum and Ligustrum ibota. 
Sugar Maple and Philadelphus. 
Acacia mollissima and Prunus mume. 
Portugal Laurel and Japanese Weeping Cherry. 
Tilia Europea and Viburnum opulus. 
Pepper Trees and Leptospermum lavsgatum. 
Monterey Cypress and Spartium juncem. 

[ 28 ] 




M^^ &$^^^. ^^m^'"' eeg^^/" ^psm^-r -m^^jB 

200' X 350' 



Gardening in California 



Group No. ^o^ Lot 200' X 350'— Continued. 

37. Monterey Pine and Cistus rosea. 



38 

39 
40 

41 
42 

43 

44 
45 
46 

47 
48 

49 
50 
51 

52 
53 
54 
55 
56 
57 
58 

59 
60 
61 
62 

63 



Liquidambar and Lilac. 

Liriodendron tulipifera and Lilac. 

Hedge of Blackberries. 

Salisburia adiantifolia and Tamarix. 

Lawson Cypress and Diervillea. 

Quercus macrophylla and Laburnum. 

Acacia latifolia. 

Crataegus oxyacantha and Crataegus pyracantha. 

Grevillea robusta and Erythrina crista galli. 

Thuya gigantea and Rhododendron Catawbiense. 

Phillyrea myrtifolia and perennial Phlox. 

Cedrus deodara and Abelia rupestris. 

Abies Lowiana and Clianthus puniceus. 

Prunus Caroliniensis and Albizzia julibrissin. 

Cedrus Libanii and Streptosolen Jamesonii. 

Abies Nordmanniana and Swainsonia alba. 

Bamboo and Pampas Grass. 

Hedge of Acacia longifolia. 

Ulmus Montana. 

Juniperus prostrata. 

Cotoneaster. 

Juniperus prostrata. 

Cotoneaster. 

Juniperus prostrata. 

Ulmus Montana. 

Orchard. 

Planting List 



For Lot 300' X 400'. 
Group No. 

1. Specimen plants of Boxwood or Nerium splendens. 

2. Escallonia rosea, grown thickly so as to form a dense screen ten 

feet in height. 

3. Pittosporum eugenoides. 

4. Arbutus unedo. - 

5. Portugal Laurel. 

6. Corynocarpus and Hymenosporum flavum. 

7. Leptospermum lavaegatum. 

[30] 



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300 X 400 



Gardening in California 



9- 

lO. 

II. 

12. 

13- 

14. 

15- 
16. 

17- 
18. 
19. 
20. 
21. 
22. 

23- 

24. 

25- 
26. 



Acacia lati folia. 

Laurus tinus grandiflora. 

Cerassus lauro-cerassus. 

Bamboo. 

Lilac, Leptospermum lavaegatum and Prunus mume. 

Acacia mollissima. 

Lilac and Callistemon. 

Ligustrum ovatum, Escallonia rosea and Laurus tinus 

Flower-bed, 

Grevillea robusta and Berberis Darwinii. 

Umbelularia and Romneya Coulterii. 

Schinus molle. 

Coprosma Baueriana. 

Brahea Sonoraea. 

Pittosporum tobira. 

Choisya ternata and Diosma alba. 

Veronica decussata. 

Ulmus Montana or Tilia Europea. 

Escallonia Montevidiensis. 30. 



27. 
28. 
29. 



Magnolia grandiflora. 
Maytenus boaria. 
Hedge of Pittosporum 

eugenoides. 
Rhododendron hybrida. 



Planting List 
For Ten Acre Tract. 



Group No. 



2 
3 

4 
5 
6 

7 
8 

9 
10 



II. 
12. 

13- 



Hawthorn, Lilac and Eu- 
genia latifolia. 

Cypress. 

Rock-work with Ferns. 

Rock-work with Ferns. 

Acer Schwedleri. 

Acer Schwedleri 

Rhododendrons. 

Site for large Palm. 

Rhododendron and Azalea. 

Rhododendron catawbiense, 
Camellia and Aucuba Ja- 
ponica. 

Maples. 

Lindens. 

Eucalyptus ficifolia and Ne- 

[ 



Group No. 




rium splendens. 


14. 


Escallonia and Buxus sem- 




pervirens. 


15- 


Escallonia. 


16. 


Oranges. 


17- 


Lemons. 


18. 


Olives. 


19. 


Redwoods, Philadelphus and 




Cydonia Japonica. 


20. 


Redwoods and Viburnums 




( Snowball ) . 


21. 


Oranges. 


22. 


Border for Vegetables. 


23- 


Figs. 


24. 


Peaches, 


25- 


Plums. 


32] 





Planting List 



For Ten Acre 

Group No. 

26. Apricots. 

27. Apricots. 

28. Peaches. 

29. Plums. 

30. Cherries. 

31. Cherries. 

32. Pears. 

33. Apples. 

34. Nectarines. 

35. Pears. 

36. Apples. 

37. Pears. 

38. Apricots. 

39. Acacia latifolia. 

40. Acer campestris and Acacia 

floribunda. 

41. Grevillea robusta. 

42. Maples. 

43. Lindens and Coprosma 

Baueriana. 

44. Coprosma Baueriana. 

45. Corynocarpus lavsegatus. 

46. Araucaria imbricata and 

Junipers. 

47. Cryptomeria Japonica and 

Cryptomeria elegans. 

48. Sequoia gigantea and Ha- 

brothamnus. 

49. Pinus, Liquidambar, Erica 

persoluta alba and Abelia 
rupestris. 

50. Pinus, Liriodendron tulipi- 

fera, Erica and Honey- 
suckle. 

51. Peppers. 

52. Camphor and Choysiaternata, 

53. Phcenix Canariensis. 

54. Hymenosporum flavum and 

Holly. [ 



Tract — Continued. 

Group No. 

55. Acacia mollissima, Pitto- 

sporum eugenoides and 
Romneya Coulterii. 

56. Robinia bessoniana, Myrtle 

and Laurustinus. 

57. Abies and Thuyopsis dolo- 

brata. 

58. Prunus pissardii and Prunus 

mume. 

59. Araucaria excelsa and Re- 

tinospora obtusa. 

60. Picea pungens. 

61. Escallonia rubra. 

62. Albizzia Julibrissin and 

Quercus suber. 

63. Libocedrus decurrens, Acacia 

armata and Azara macro- 
phylla. 

64. Taxus baccata aurea. 

65. Weeping Japanese Cherries. 

66. Bamboos. 

67. Weeping Birch and Spiraea. 

68. Redwoods. 

69. Callistemons. 

70. Bamboos. 

71. Salisburia adiantifolia and 

Pittosporum eugenoides. 

72. Pittosporum eugenoides and 

Diervillia rosea. 

73. Magnolia and Pittosporum 

undulatum. 

74. Ligustrum ibota, Euonumus 

aurea and Horse Chestnut. 

75. Cedrus Deodara, Cedrus At- 

lantica and Veronica. 

76. Cedrus Deodara, Cedrus At- 

lantica and Veronica. 

33] 



II 




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en Acre 


Tract — Continued. 




Group No. 


Veronica 


80. Populus pyramidalis 


Polygala 


Populus Carolinensis. 




81. Espalier for fruit. 




82. Leptospermum. 




83. Bamboo hedge. 



Gardening in California 



For 
Group No. 
yy. Lawson Cypress, Veronica 80. Populus pyramidalis and 

decussata and 

Delmaisiana. 

78. Site for large Palm. 

79. Cypress hedge. 

A. A summer house of stone or wood, rustic in design. 

B. Six-foot walk. 

C. Six-foot walk through Rhododendrons. 

D. Eight-foot border in grass. 

E. Niche for statuary or sun dial. 

F. Low formal basin. 

G. Six-foot walk. 

H. Formal flower-beds. 

I. Space for house-site, one hundred and twenty by one hundred feet. 
J. Proposed site for garage or stable. 
K. Ten-foot walk leading from house to vegetable garden, covered 

by an arbor and shaded by grape vines and Wistaria. 
L. Range of glass houses. 

M. Eighteen-inch walk between the vegetable beds. 
N. Vegetable beds. 

O. Three-foot walk through vegetable garden. 
P. Squares for vegetables. 
Q. One of the four squares surrounded by fruit trees, the inside of 

each to be treated as O and P. Outside of the line of fruit trees, 

cut flowers for the house may be grown. 
R. An espalier for trained fruit trees, showing an eighteen inch walk, 

two feet from the espalier. 
S. Eighteen-inch alleyway for the use of the gardener in working on 

the espalier. 
T. Twenty-five foot border surrounding the vegetable garden, to be 

used for small vegetables. 
U. Fifteen-foot road. 
V. Hexagonal summer house of rustic design, of either stone or 

wood and encircled by a small walk. 
W. Four-foot walk, girdling lake. 
X. Small lake from two to three feet in depth. 
Y. A formal gateway. 
NOTE. — All walks in the vegetable garden are to be edged with 

dwarf box. r ^g i 



Preparation of the Ground 



CHAPTER III. 

PREPARATION OF THE GROUND. 

AFTER the house-site has been selected and the outlines 
of the drive and walks have been staked, the next opera- 
tion should be grading and preparing the ground for 
planting. When grading or levelling, it is necessaiy to remember 
to always keep the good or surface soil at the top and not to bury 
it as is too often done by contractors. 

When the ground is graded and shaped to the lines as 
planned, it should then be plowed or trenched. Where the 
grounds are large, use the ordinary plow followed by the subsoil- 
plow; stir the subsoil, if possible, twenty- four inches deep. 
After plowing, follow with a heavy harrow, selecting dry 
weather and only when the soil is reasonably dry and not wet 
enough to stick to the shoes or clog the harrow-teeth; then cross- 
plow and reharrow. 

Should the ground be too small for plowing, trenching with 
the spade must be resorted to; and here again it is important to 
bear in mind to keep the top soil for the upper layer. 

Trenching should be done by first removing, at one end of the 
ground, the top soil, to the depth of one foot, from a strip (three 
feet wide) across the entire width of the ground, and wheeling 
that top soil to the opposite end of the ground which is being 
trenched. Then, with a heavy pick, stir the subsoil to an addi- 
tional foot in depth, leaving the loosened subsoil in its original 
place. On top of the loosened subsoil spread a layer of manure 
about four inches deep. Measure from the line of the first trench, 
with a yardstick, three feet at each end of the trench, (that is, at 
each side of the ground), and place stakes, to which stakes attach 

[37] 



Gardening in California 



a line, which line will thus run across the ground at a distance of 
three feet from the line of the first trench. Remove the top soil 
to the depth of one foot from this strip, and place that top soil to 
the depth of one foot above the manure in Trench No. i . Stir sub- 
soil of Trench No. 2, and, on top of that, place a layer of manure, 
as instructed for Trench No. i. Then establish the line for 
Trench No. 3, in the same manner as for Trench No. 2, with the 
top soil of which (Trench No. 3) Trench No. 2 will be com- 
pleted, and so on trench after trench all over the ground, the sur- 
face soil taken from the first opening, which had been wheeled to 
the far end of the ground, being found sufficient in quantity for 
filling on top of the manure of the last trench, thus leaving the 
ground level or even, and in the same shape as it was before the 
work of trenching began. 

Should the natural soil be composed of stiff clay, a layer of 
light sandy soil or pure sand, or a heavy application of half- 
decomposed stable-manure mixed freely with the soil, or, more 
especially, a compost made of all three will greatly improve it. 

Where the soil is of an adhesive nature, or the subsoil within 
three feet of the surface is of stiff clay, drainage should be 
resorted to, as, no matter how well the soil may be cultivated 
or how heavily it may be manured, good results will be impos- 
sible if the soil is water-logged. Drains should be put in about 
fifteen feet apart and three feet deep with a fall of not less than 
six inches in one hundred feet. Of course where water passes 
freely through the soil and does not lie stagnant in the subsoil, 
the putting in of drains will be unnecessary. This may be readily 
found out by digging a hole with the spade after heavy rains and 
observing whether the hole holds water any length of time. 
Should the water percolate freely through the soil, no draining 
will be required, but should the water remain in the hole for 
weeks, it would be well to have the ground thoroughly drained 
as directed. Tile draining is much the best and most lasting 
method, but, when tiles cannot be had, a foot of rough rock placed 

[38] 



Preparation of the Ground 



in the bottom of the ditch (putting the larger stones in the bot- 
tom and finishing with the smaller ones, covering the whole with 
sods or long straw to keep the soil from choking the crevices) will 
answer the purpose very well although not so lasting as the tile. 

It may be stated that where there is too much water lying 
stagnant in the soil, few plants will thrive, for, as soon as the 
roots of the trees or other plants reach the stagnant saturated 
soil, they invariably begin to show it by their upper twigs or 
leaves dying off and by their eventually dying altogether. 

Drain ditches should be dug just wide enough for a man to 
work them out. If the top soil is loose, it should be given enough 
slope to prevent the soil from crumbling into the drain when the 
tile is being laid. If the soil is heavy and solid, twenty-four 
inches wide at the surface of the ground will be ample width, 
tapering to the size of the tile at the bottom, so that the pipes 
may bed in the solid ground accurately. 

Pipe tiles are made of round shape and should be furnished 
with collars as these tend to keep the tiles from shifting, and also 
prevent, to a large extent, roots from entering and interrupting 
the flow of water. After laying them, cover the tiles with fine 
crushed rock or gravel to keep the soil from entering the drains. 

Where the ground is undulating in its character, a main 
drain should be laid along the lowest portion of the ground, and 
lateral drains laid obliquely according to the shape of the ground, 
each entering the main drain by a Y or T shaped fitting, care 
being taken that each drain has a fall of at least six inches in one 
hundred feet as formerly recommended. 

In digging the ditches for the drains, place the top soil on 
one side and the bottom soil on the opposite side so that, when 
filling in the ditches, the subsoil may be replaced and the surface 
soil saved for the top where it is most needed. 



[39] 



Gardening in California 



CHAPTER IV. 



CONSTRUCTION OF ROADS AND WALKS. 

IN the chapter on the "Preparation of the Ground" it was 
advised that, after the land had been plowed, the subsoil 

plow should be used, and the ground thoroughly harrowed, 
then cross-plowed and again harrowed. Finally it may be rolled 
with a two-horse roller so as to break up the lumps of earth and 
leave the surface reasonably even and smooth. It has also been 
advised that, in order to show the proposed lines of the drive- 
ways and walks, a center line of stakes should be set according to 
the adopted plan, and at the same time it was urged that the lines 
of these driveways and walks should be most carefully studied 
from all points until it was felt that they were the best possible. 

Assuming then that these preliminary points have all been 
attended to, the next step towards the construction of roads 
and walks is to have two lines of stakes set equally distant from 
the center line showing the width of the proposed walk or drive- 
way. If for a driveway, these stakes should be set not less 
than eight feet from the center line of stakes, and thus sixteen 
feet apart from each other, as a driveway with a width of less 
than sixteen feet would be too narrow for two carriages to pass 
comfortably, and, besides, would give the grounds a pinched, 
contracted appearance. 

If the stakes are being set for a foot-path, they should be 
set four feet from the center stakes, and thus eight feet apart 
from each other. A foot-path eight feet wide has enough width 
and looks well in the grounds. 

[40I 



Construction of Roads and Walks 



As formerly suggested, it is again urged that all the good 
surface soil should be removed from the proposed road-bed, 
(whether of driveway, walk, or any other contemplated gravel 
surface), and spread over those parts of the grounds where the 




Walk with Rustic Benches. Background of Pines and Firs. 



natural soil is poor and shallow, or, if not required for that pur- 
pose, in any low spots which may need levelling up. 

When this is done, the center line, as well as the side lines of 
stakes, should be carefully reset about every fifteen feet along 

[41] 



Gardening in California 



the proposed roadway. Then three lines of levels must be run 
along the road-bed, one in the middle and one on each side. The 
cuts and fills must now be figured out, and the grade established, 
the quantities of soil to be moved being carefully figured so 
that the cuts and fills will balance each other, always keeping 
in view the economy of having the dirt moved as short a distance 
as possible. 

After this is all calculated, it is time to have the grade-stakes 
set, one at the base of each of the line-stakes. 

When setting the border grade-stakes, it must be 
seen that the stakes, on opposite sides of the road to 
be graded, are set exactly level with each other, for unless the 
two borders of the roadway or foot-path are level, not only 
does the road never look well, but it is not comfortable to walk 
or drive over. As the grade-stakes will be set alongside the line- 
stakes, they also will be at intervals of fifteen feet on the road- 
way, it being inadvisable to have them further away from each 
other. These grade-stakes should have sawed, square ends not 
less than one inch square. 

After the border grade-stakes have been put in place, still 
another line of grade-stakes should be set, at equal distances 
apart, along the line of the road-bed, to guide the workmen in 
the grading of the surface. These grade-stakes should be set 
so as to give the road-bed a crown of one in sixty; for example, 
if the roadway is sixteen feet wide, it should be about three and 
one-half inches higher in the middle than at the sides, so that 
the rains will run off the middle of the road toward the sides, 
leaving the center of the roadway dry. Great care must be taken 
in this part of the work, as a road or walk has not a good appear- 
ance when there is too great a rise in the middle, and that such a 
road or walk is inconvenient and almost unpleasant for walking 
or driving over, will be evident. In staking the rise, the width 
of the road must always be taken into consideration, otherwise 
great mistakes may be made, and a walk which is eight feet 

[42] 



Construction of Roads and Walks 



wide should have no more than the proportion just mentioned, 
which would be a rise of one and three-quarter inches from the 
sides to the middle. 

At each of the grade-stakes, stout witness-stakes should be 
set, close against each grade-stake, and projecting about two 
feet higher, so that in the event of the grade-stakes being covered 




Formal Gardening. Walks Converging to Fountain. Background Heavily Wooded. 



over with dirt, they may always be located by the witness-stakes, 
and thus the work will not be delayed through a surveyor having 
to be found to locate the lines or the grades. 

For a driveway, the border grade-stakes should be set eight 
inches above the proposed finished gravel surface, thereby giving 
room for five inches of crushed rock and one inch of fine finishing 
rock, and thus leaving the border of soil about two inches above 
the finished rolled surface of the roadway. 

[43] 



Gardening in California 



For a walk, the same course in grading should be pursued, 
only in this case the border should be graded six inches above the 
grade of the walk instead of eight inches as recommended for the 
driveway. This would give four inches for the depth of rock, 
that depth being sufficient for a foot-path. 

When these stakes for the driveway have all been set, the 
roadway can now be leveled to the required grade, namely, eight 
inches below the top of the established border grade-stakes, and 
six inches below the top of the road-bed grade-stakes. 

Of course, some portions of the natural grade will be found 
to be above and other portions below the proposed grade of the 
driveway, but, all this having been carefully planned out as 
suggested earlier in this chapter, the portions of the roadway 
which are too high will now be moved to fill up to grade where 
the ground is too low. This part of the work is very easily 
carried out when it has previously been carefully planned and 
has also been surveyed and staked, so that the workmen will 
know both how deep to cut and to what grade they are to fill in. 

Various materials may be used for the bottoming of roads 
and walks, such as stone, brickbats, clinkers, or, in short, any 
'hard substance which contains nothing that would injure the 
roots of the plants. It is important to keep this in view, as plants 
situated near the border of a road quite frequently send their 
roots under the road-bed, and, if material injurious to plants were 
used, the plants could not fail to suffer. Each neighborhood 
generally has some local quarry which contains rock quite good 
enough for forming roads or walks for a Pleasure-Garden and 
Grounds. Crushed rock of a brown color has a much better 
color effect, as contrasted with the green of lawns or shrubbery, 
than rock which is of a gray or white shade. 

Before commencing to haul the rock for bottoming the road- 
bed, it should be seen that the road-bed is well shaped, evenly 
crowned, and rolled hard, for unless the road-bed is properly 
shaped before the rock is spread, it is almost impossible to get a 

[44] 



Construction of Roads and Walks 



good road, because the foundation rock would necessarily be of 
uneven depth and could not be evenly rolled. Besides, leaving 
the road-bed uneven would be the cause of greater expense, as 
the road would, in that case, have to be evened up by rock, and, 
as the expense of hauling rock is very considerable on account 
of it generally having to be brought from some distance, it would 
be much more expensive to fill up a road-bed in this way than by 
grading it with dirt from the grounds. 




Drivezvay Shoiving Calif ornia Laurel (to Left of Illustration), and Oaks; 
also Ivy-Covered Stump. 

The roadbed then being in shape and rolled smooth and hard, 
the work of setting the bottom rock should be commenced. Any 
kind of rock will be found good enough for the foundation 
layer of the driveway, provided it is not over two inches or two 
inches and a half in diameter. A mixture of all sizes up to six 
or eight inches in diameter does not make a good roadway, for it 
cannot be rolled evenly, nor does it form a close finish, as it 

[45] 



Gardening in California 



leaves large open spaces and hard unevennesses. This bottom 
layer should be evenly spread about five inches deep. After the 
rolling is all done, the surface should be gone over with a shovel, 
and any ruts or chuck-holes which may have been left by the 
wagon wheels should be filled in, the object being to leave the 
whole surface as even as possible. It should then be rolled with 
a heavy roller at least three times, or until perfectly smooth. 
There must then be a layer of finishing rock or gravel which will 
pass through a half-inch mesh, spread evenly over the entire sur- 
face about one inch deep and rolled into proper condition. 

This finishing coat, as a rule, is not put on until all the 
heavy work on the roads, (such as hauling material for buildings 
and planting the grounds) has been completed. 




IValk Lined with Dracanas. 



[46 



Planting and Transplanting 



CHAPTER V. 

PLANTING AND TRANSPLANTING. 

WHEN the ground has been got ready for the reception 
of plants in accordance with the suggestions made in 
chapter 3, the next operation is the planting of the 
trees and shrubs according to the plan which it has been strongly 
advised should be carefully prepared in full detail before the 
actual work of planting is begun. 

It will be remembered that if the place is large, the ground 
should have been plowed, and the subsoil plowed, cross-plowed 
and harrowed, or, if the place is too small for plowing, that the 
ground should have been trenched and then raked to an even 
surface. 

The soil then having been thoroughly cultivated and being 
in good condition to be worked (that is, neither so wet that it 
will stick to the spade or trowel when being dug up or to the 
feet when treading it, nor, on the other hand, too dry and hard), 
mild weather with a moist atmosphere must be selected for the 
time of planting. If the air is very dry and a harsh wind blow- 
ing, the work must be postponed until the dry spell is over, as 
a plant transplanted under these conditions is apt to suffer. If, 
however, the transplanting has to be done in very dry weather, 
shading must be resorted to until the plants make fresh roots. 
This is more necessary in the case of evergreens than of plants 
which are without leaves, for the reason that in those plants 
having leaves, the surface from which evaporation takes place 
is much larger (being at least six times greater) than in similarly 
sized plants not having leaves. 

[47] 



Gardening in California 



Deciduous trees may be safely transplanted in any month 
between the fall of the leaf in Autumn and the swelling of the 
bud in Spring, provided, of course, the soil is in good condition. 

Our hardy, native Pine and Cypress do well if transplanted 
in November, December, January or February. 

Eucalyptus, Acacia, and most of our New Holland, Aus- 
tralian and New Zealand plants do best if the planting or trans- 
planting is delayed until Spring, or until the danger from heavy 
rains and cold weather has passed. 

The operation of planting varies according to the nature of 
the plant and the natural disposition of the soil. Some plants 
root deeply, sending strong taps into the soil, while the roots of 
others creep along close to the surface. It must be carefully 
kept in view, when planting, that the roots should be placed as 
nearly as possible in the same position as they were before they 
were removed from their previous location. 

In transplanting deciduous trees, they should be taken up 
very carefully so as to preserve as many of the roots as possible, 
the constant aim being to prevent injury not only to the roots, 
but also to the branches so that they may have few wounds and 
bruises to heal when in their new quarters. 

After the ground has been prepared carefully in accordance 
with the former suggestions, the hole must be dug for the recep- 
tion of the roots of the plant to be transplanted. The size of the 
hole, of course, depends upon the size of the plant, but it is 
better to make it too large than too small. If it is made too 
small the roots are very liable to get cramped and crowded into 
wrong positions. The hole should be large enough to allow all 
of the roots to be spread out to their full length, and in their 
natural positions; the depth of the hole should permit the neck 
of the plant to be as near the surface of the ground as it was 
originally. 

There is a difference of opinion as to whether the hole should 
be circular or square. The square form should by all means be 

[48] 



^ 



n 




Planting and Transplanting 



preferred, not only because it is dug more quickly, but also for 
another reason of greater importance: — when the roots, in their 
natural extension by growth, reach the wall of a circular hole, 
they are in danger of following the line of the circular wall and 
thus confining themselves into a space the size of the original 
circular hole, instead of extending into the wall and thus into 
the adjoining soil as they will certainly do when the hole is a 
square one. 

When digging the hole, the best soil should be placed on one 
side, and the poorer soil on the opposite side. The hole should 
be made quite as wide at the bottom as at the top and should be 
deeper at the sides than in the middle, and thus the surplus water 
will run to the sides of the basin rather than lodge in the center. 

After the hole has been got ready, the plant should be ex- 
amined. If the top is not uniform and equally balanced, it must 
be pruned into uniform proportion. It must then be carefully 
seen that the roots are not matted or crowded. If the roots are 
found to be matted or crowded they must be disentangled and 
cut back to sound wood, and, if any of them are bruised, they 
should be cut back with a sharp knife. The roots should then 
be placed in the prepared spot to find out whether the hole is of 
the proper depth. It may be found that the neck of the plant is 
too high or too low, and the hole must be lowered or filled in, as 
may be necessary, to remedy this, it being always borne in mind 
that the bottom of the hole on which the roots are to rest should 
be of convex form, not only for the reason just mentioned 
regarding the drainage of the water, but so that the roots will 
point in a downward direction as in their natural state, rather 
than in an upward direction as too often happens from neglect 
of this precaution. The roots should also be as equally dis- 
tributed over the surface of the bottom of the hole as possible, 
or as nearly so as they were before transplanting, and as their 
nature will permit. 

A light spreading of fine, well-pulverized soil should then 

[51] 



Gardening in Californi 



be spread over the roots to the depth of about two inches, the 
soil being thrown from the stem of the plant toward the ends of 
the roots. This is of considerable importance, as the throwing 
of the soil from the ends of the roots toward the stem has a 
tendency to double up the roots, not only thereby injuring them 
by twisting, but, when they start into growth, causing them to 
grow toward the stem and to crowd into bunches and mat 
around the stem, instead of starting away from the stem in 
search of fresh soil, as they would do under natural circumstances. 

When the roots are covered with two inches of soil, it is 
necessary to shake the stem a little so as to get all the soil settled 
among the roots. Then the hole should be filled in, to within 
three inches of the top, and should be given a good soaking of 
water. The hole should be filled with water two or three times, 
this being allowed to entirely soak away; when the hole is partly 
dry, it should be filled up to the top with soil. 

Should the tree, which is being planted, be over four feet 
in height, it would be well to stake it with a stout pole, the tree 
being tied securely to the pole to prevent the action of the wind 
from moving the tree before it has made fresh roots. 

In the case of a large deciduous tree, the stake should be 
driven into the bottom of the hole before planting, and the 
roots spread about the stake, for, if the stake should be driven 
into the ground after the tree is set out and the hole filled in, 
the driving in of the stake would very likely injure and disturb 
the roots. 

If a stake should be required for an evergreen plant, it should 
be driven obliquely into the side of the hole and clear of the 
roots, and, of course, the plant should be tied securely to the 
stake. 

In staking or supporting a newly planted tree or shrub, great 
care must be taken to prevent the bark from being injured through 
rubbing against the stake. In order to prevent this, a padding 
of old rubber or a wisp of straw, or some other soft material, 

[52] 



Planting and Transplanting 



should be placed between the stake and the stem of the tree. A 
plant, which has been staked, should be examined about once 
a month to see that the tie is not cutting into the bark by the 
natural swelling of the stem, or that the padding has not been 
forced out of position, thus allowing the bark to rub against the 
stake by the action of the wind. 

After the planting and staking is all completed, it is a good 
plan to mulch the ground with horse-manure half-rotted, spread 
to a depth of about three inches. Mulching is a good means of 
preserving the moisture and keeping the soil at an even tempera- 
ture. It also prevents the soil from cracking, and proves beneficial 
through its substance being washed into the soil by rains or 
artificial watering. 




Lawn Outline. Eucalyptus and Conifers. 



[53] 



Gardening in California 



CHAPTER VI. 



LAWNS. 



IN preparing the part of the site which it has been decided 
shall be laid out in Lawn, it is of great importance, and will 

prove to be true economy, to see that the preliminary work is 
done with the utmost carefulness, for if proper care is taken at 
this stage, there will not be the annoyance, the loss of time or 
the expense of having to dig up the lawn and practically do the 
work over again, which so often has been experienced by owners 
of homes where the lawns were made by men who either were 
careless or did not thoroughl)^ understand what was necessary 
to be done. 

As this preliminary work varies to a certain extent according 
to the class of soil, it will be well in this chapter on Lawn-making 
to refer to the four most usual classes of soil met with, namely, 
clay, brown loam, black dobe and light sandy soil. 

When the soil is clay, it is necessary that it be trenched 
at least two feet deep. If the work is done in the Summer 
Season, the soil should be turned up and left in rough condition 
as long as possible, — say about six weeks, — until it gets thor- 
oughly dry and warmed by the sun. It then must be generously 
manured, (the best for this purpose being light stable-manure 
well-rotted), this manure to be spaded in one spade deep, care 
being taken that the soil is thoroughly pulverized and broken 
as the work goes along. It should then be shaped and graded and 
raked smooth, rolled with a light roller and then raked again, 
the lawn being now ready for the seed, but it is strongly advised 
that, before the grass seed is sown, the first crop of weeds should 
be allowed to germinate, and that then the ground be gone over 

[54] 



Lawns 



with a light scuffle hoe which will kill all the weeds if the 
hoeing is clone in dry weather. Taking this extra precaution 
will save the grass from afterwards having to struggle for ex- 
istence with the weeds. This hoeing will leave the ground too 
rough for seed, so it must be raked again before sowing. 

The grass which makes the best lawn, and the lawn most 
easily kept in satisfactory condition, is Kentucky Blue Grass. 
The mixing of clover or any other grass seed with Kentucky Blue 




Lawn with Tree Groups. 

Grass seed is not recommended. When purchasing the seed, 
see that it is perfectly clean and fresh, the quantity required 
being about half a pound of seed to one hundred and fifty square 
feet of lawn. It must be sown as evenly as possible, a time for 
sowing being selected when there is absolutely no wind; as the 
seed is very light too much stress cannot be laid upon this point. 
Immediately after sowing, the ground must be raked very lightly 
with an iron rake. The raking must be done lightly, as none 
of the seed must be moved or dragged into bunches, the object of 

[55] 



Gardening in California 



this raking being to cover the seed not more than a quarter of 
an inch, and to have it as evenly distributed as can be managed. 
When doing this, the one who rakes must have two wide boards 
to stand upon and walk over, so that his feet will not mark or 
indent the surface of the soil, as such indentations, of course, 
would make an uneven lawn. If this Kentucky Blue Grass seed 
can be successfully sown, it makes the best lawn, the closest 
turf, and the most velvety surface, and is well worth the extra 
preliminary trouble. The other strong grass seeds, as the English 
Rye and the Orchard, are apt to run into bunches and tufts. 

It is well to remember that the results from the Kentucky 
Blue Grass seed are considerably slower than from the coarser 
grasses. With this grass it takes about three months to form a 
turf when the seed is sown in the best season, which, in the 
middle and northern counties of California, is during April and 
May, or immediately after the cold rains are past. In the 
Southern and frostless regions this grass may be sown earlier in 
the year. 

No water should be applied to the lawn until the seed has 
been in the ground at least two days. Then the ground should 
be given a thorough soaking and should be kept continually 
moist (by watering once daily during dry weather, the evening 
being the best time for this watering) until the young growth 
is at least one inch high when three waterings per week should 
be enough. 

When the young grass is about one inch high, the lawn 
should be gone over again with a light roller, the one who does 
the rolling being careful to use two boards similarly to when 
raking as suggested above, these two boards being necessary for 
the same reason, namely, to avoid indenting the lawn by boot 
marks. After this, all that is required is to water when dry, and 
mow as often as is necessary, which in ordinary circumstances is 
about once a week. 

Should a rougher lawn than this be required, or, in the 

[56] 



Lawns 



Winter months should a lawn effect be desired more quickly than 
can be secured from Kentucky Blue Grass, English or Australian 
Rye Grass will give a good lawn effect during that part of the 
year. Treat the ground as recommended above for Kentucky 
Blue Grass. Sow the Rye Grass seed (not mixed with any other 
seed) thickly, and rake in a little deeper than the other, say 
from three-eighths to one-half an inch in depth, otherwise care- 
fully keeping in view the same suggestions regarding sowing, 
watering, etc., as for Kentucky Blue Grass. 

In some instances Bermuda Grass has been used for lawns, 
but on account of its dry, dead effect during Winter, and the 
fact that it is difficult to eradicate, it is not considered suitable 
for a good lawn, and is certainly not to be compared with the 
others in any way. 

With reference to what is said in this chapter as to the 
inadvisability of mixing Clover or anything else with Blue or 
Rye Grass, and as to the results obtained from these grasses, it 
should be mentioned that experiments have been made with 
Lippia reptans, which is a dwarf creeping-plant with a small 
oval leaf and a purple flower. This has been tried and even 
recommended as a substitute for grass. These experiments have 
not been successful, and, as the prevailing color effect is a purplish 
gray, it lacks the refreshing green effect of a good grass lawn. 

With regard to Clover, which is of a strong growth, it re- 
quires more water than grass and spreads so as to kill the 
grass. One great objection to Clover is the stubby effect when 
newly cut, and as a good lawn should be cut about once a week, 
this is of great importance. There are many other grasses which 
might be sown, but they are either too fine or too coarse for 
practical lawn purposes. 

In young lawns, notwithstanding the killing of the first crop 
of weeds, as explained in the early part of this chapter, it is to 
be expected that many weeds will germinate and grow with the 
grass, but these must be weeded out as soon as they are large 

[ 57 ] 



Gardening in Californi 



enough to be pulled up, especially those weeds which have per- 
ennial roots such as the Thistle, the Dock and the Dandelion. 
On no account should the Dandelion be allowed to seed. It 
must be eradicated at once, because if only one flower-stalk or 
head is allowed to ripen its seeds, it will completely ruin a lawn 
in a short period. There are myriads of seeds in one of these 
flower-tops, and when they are allowed to spread they spring up 
in a few days and do an immense amount of damage. 

When the soil is of brown loam or black dobe, the 
treatment above suggested applies equally well, but it must 
be kept in view that should the soil be brown friable loam 
naturally well drained, all that is necessary at the beginning is 
to grade the ground in the shape desired, and, instead of, as in 
the case of clay soil, trenching two feet deep, digging one foot or 
one spade in depth will be enough. The applying of manure 
and the rest of the work should be done as advised in the case 
of clay soil. 

If the natural soil of the site, where the lawn is to be, is poor 
sand, this sand must be removed to the depth of at least one foot 
and replaced with good loam. The loam should then be manured 
and the rest of the work done exactly in the same way as recom- 
mended for the other soils. 



[58] 



Trees and Shrubs 



CHAPTER VII. 



TREES AND SHRUBS. 



Abelia. 






1^/ r *^ 



THE Abelia is one of 
our most free-flowering 
shrubs, being in flower 
nearly every month of the year. 
It is neat and compact in its 
habit of growth and is excellent 
for finishing groups of stronger- 
growing shrubs. 

The flowers of the Abelia, 
which are lilac or pink and bell- 
shaped, are sweet-scented and 
pretty. 

There are four varieties of 
the shrub, Abelia rupestris and 

Abelia serrata (natives of China), Abelia floribunda (a native 
of Mexico) and Abelia triflora (a native of India). They flourish 
in any good garden soil and in any situation which is not too 
much exposed. 

The Abelia rupestris, grouped with Veronica decussata, May- 
tenus boaria or Leptospermum laveagatum makes a very effective 
combination, all of these being of similar habit. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy leaf-mold in a cold 
frame during September or October. When rooted, they should 
be placed in three-inch pots and given root-room as required. 



Abelia rupestris. 



[59] 



Gardening in California 



•• ^- ' 






^^ ■■ ■ 








^\ 


j 


te^pBB 


1 


1 


^^■El'^teJ; ■ . '-'r,'M^W 


V 


1 



Abies Morinda. 



Abies (Fir). 

A genus of about twenty-five spe- 
cies, all giving a grand effect in the 
landscape, whether in group form or 
singly in the park or lawn. Most of 
the species are lofty conifers, massive, 
symmetrical and handsome, many of 
them with the under side of the leaves 
of a silvery white. All are hardy 
and delight in a cool moist atmos- 
phere and a well-drained soil. 

A number of the finest of the 
species are indigenous to California, 
Abies amabilis, Abies grandis, Abies 
Douglassii, Abies bracteata, and 
Abies Mertensiana, preferring the cool coast counties, while our 
other indigenous species, including Abies nobilis, Abies mag- 
nifica, Abies Pattoniana, Abies concolor, etc., seem to prefer the 
high valleys and ridges of the Sierras, Many of the exotic 
species, such as the Abies Nordmanniana from the Crimea, the 
Abies pectinata from Central Europe, the Abies Cephalonica 
from Greece, and all of the Asiatic species, such as the Abies 
Morinda, seem to be at home with our natives, and, when grow- 
ing side by side, with the same exposure and treatment, do 
equally well. The Eastern species, including the beautiful Abies 
balsamea, seem also to thrive, especially when given a sheltered 
half-shady situation. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in February, one-eighth of an inch 
deep, in a cool frame; give them plenty of air and protect them 
from small birds until they are three inches high when they 
should be pricked off, two inches apart, into boxes, left there one 
year, and then transplanted into nursery rows. 



[6o] 




Abies Mcrtensiana. 



Trees and Shrub 



Albizzia Julibrissin. 




Albiczia Julibrissin. 



One of the most beautiful of 
our small flowering trees, of wide- 
spreading habit and fern-like 
foliage with great sprays of deli- 
cate pale-pink flowers, blossom- 
ing in July and August after most 
of our flowering trees are past 
bloom. 

The full effect of the beauty 
of this most interesting tree is had 
when it is planted on a rising 
ground, against a background of 
pine or other dark foliage, in the 
full sunlight in which it seems to 

delight. In the warm interior valleys this fine tree should do 
exceedingly well if planted in good, well-drained soil and given 
some attention in the way of cultivation and a little water occa- 
sionally at its roots. 

It should be grown extensively both in the garden and as a 
sidewalk tree. 

Being a native of Armenia and the Levant it thrives in the 
climatic conditions along our coast and even in San Francisco. 

Wherever it has been planted and given a little care it has 
proved to be one of the best trees for giving grand effects in late 
Summer and early Fall. 

It should not be planted in heavy clay soil or in a situation 
where water lies on the surface at any time. 

Propagate by seeds, sown one-quarter of an inch deep in heat, 
in February or March (or as soon as received) ; give pot- room 
as required. Cuttings are seldom successful. 



[<^3] 



Gardening in Californi 



a 



Abutilon 



Abutilon (Bell Flower). 

A class of shrubs noted for 
their free-flowering and showy 
appearance, belonging to the 
mallow family. Few excel them 
as ornamental flowering shrubs 
for decorating the shrubbery, 
especially if they are given a 
sheltered situation on a sloping 
bank where the flowers may be 
viewed from below. They thrive 
well in any good garden soil 
with ordinary treatment. 

There are many varieties, 
including Abutilon admiration, 
Abutilon fire king, Abutilon purpurea, Abutilon Boule de Niege, 
etc., besides many variegated forms, all worthy of cultivation. 

Propagate by cuttings, in July or August, inserted, in pots 
or boxes, in soil composed of half sand, half well-decomposed 
leaf-mold, placed in a cold frame and shaded for a few days. 






Acacia. 

A genus of highly ornamental and decorative shrubs or trees, 
natives of New Holland, South America and North Africa. 
Most of the evergreen species came originally from Australia 
and are among our special favorites. All are vigorous growers 
and abundant bloomers, and, if carefully selected, may be had 
in bloom every month of the year, beginning with Acacia longi- 
folia, which flowers in January, followed closely by the beauti- 
ful fern-leaved Acacia mollissima, with its great masses of 
sulphur-yellow racemes on a tree from forty to sixty feet in 
height, with a spread of branch as much in diameter. This 

[64] 



Trees and Shrubs 




Acacia armata. 



Stands without a rival as a flowering 
tree in our early Spring months. 

The Acacia is a very extensive 
genus, the number of species being 
nearly four hundred. Over one hun- 
dred species have been introduced into 
California and almost all of them have 
proved to be perfectly hardy, growing 
freely in any soil and standing expo- 
sure to our harshest winds, while one, 
at least, rivals our hardiest trees in 
standing salt winds, growing almost 
within touch of salt spray on the poor- 
est land. 

Amongst the best of the shrubbery species are Acacia armata, 
Acacia cultriformis. Acacia Baileyana, Acacia floribunda, Acacia 
lineata. Acacia longifolia. Acacia riceana, etc., and those which 
assume tree form. Acacia dealbata. Acacia decurrens. Acacia 
mollissima. Acacia melanoxylon and Acacia lophanta. 

Acacia Baileyana, one of the earliest to bloom, opens its 

great bundles of yellow 
flowers early in January. 
Its silvery fern-like foli- 
age, blending with its 
beautiful flowers, makes it 
a charming object in gar- 
den or shrubbery. It 
grows to the height of 
thirty feet. Acacia mol- 
lissima blooms in Febru- 
ary, Acacia pyonantha 

Acacia lophanta. n • i o 

nowers m early Summer, 
Acacia cultriformis a little later and Acacia calamifolia in late 
Fall, making a continuous season of bloom throughout the year. 

[65] 




Gardening in California 



Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in a 
cold frame or greenhouse in March; prick them out into pots 
or boxes when they are three inches high and plant them out in 
permanent quarters the following Spring. 

Acer {Maple). 

A genus of highly ornamental hardy deciduous trees or 
shrubs greatly valued for the effect produced either when planted 
in group-form in our large grounds, or when growing as single 
trees, on the margins of lawns, or as sidewalk trees on sheltered 
streets. The Maple loves a sheltered situation in a soft moist 
soil, and plenty of water at the root during the growing season. 

Acer negundo stands exposure better than any other species, 
and, in good soil, makes a fine shade tree even when given con- 
siderable exposure. Acer macrophyllum, our native species, 
becomes a handsome tree of large proportions with a stately 
stem often three feet or more in diameter with branches to the 
height of twenty feet, its spread of limbs shading an area from 
seventy-five to one hundred feet across. 

Acer campestre, the English Maple, is a small tree with small 
cordate leaves. 

Acer Japonicum, the Japanese Maple, and its varieties make 
an effective shrubbery group, their deeply cut, variously tinted 
leaves being very beautiful. 

Acer saccharinum, the Sugar Maple, is one of the very best 
of our deciduous trees. Where given good soil and a situation 
not too greatly exposed it makes a fine tree either for the side- 
walk or as a single specimen on the lawn. 

Acer Schwedlerii gives beautiful color effects in early Spring 
and also in the Fall. 

Our native Acer circinatum, the dwarf species of Acer 
Japonica and its varieties, and the many varieties of Acer 

[66] 



Trees and Shrubs 



palmatum make beautiful shrubs early in Spring when the young 
leaves first open, and again in the Fall when they take on their 
Autumn tints of red and yellow. 

Propagate by seeds sown, as soon as ripe, in Autumn, in the 
open ground, covering the seeds about one-quarter of an inch deep. 
The rarer varieties and the variegated forms are propagated by 
grafting in Spring or by budding in Summer on the common 
species. 



AcHANiA (Turk's Cap). 

The Turk's Cap, (named 
from its scarlet cap-like flower), 
is a very pretty evergreen flower- 
ing shrub with heart-shaped leaves 
of pale-green, belonging to the 
genus Malvacea. It requires a 
sheltered situation and partial 
shade, such as under the branches 
of a deciduous tree away from 
strong sunshine and protected 
from frost, and grows freely in 
any good soil not too heavy. 

Propagate by placing cuttings 
of half-ripe wood in sandy soil 

in a cool frame in September and shading them from sunshine 
until rooted; when rooted, pot them singly in three-inch pots 
and plant them out the following Spring. • 




A chaii ia ma Ivaviscus. 



iEscuLus {Chestnut — Horse). 

A well-known hardy ornamental deciduous tree with showy 
flowers and compound leaves well adapted for single specimens 
on large lawns. It does well in any good deep soil protected 
from the harsh wind. 

[ 67 1 



Gardening in California 



Plant the seeds, as soon as gathered, one inch deep in nursery 
rows one foot apart; plant them in their permanent situations 
when they are four feet in height. There are several fine species 
including JEsculus hippocastanum, (the common European 
variety), ^sculus Californica, (the common Buckeye) iEsculus 
glabra, (the Ohio Buckeye) and a red-flowering variety named 
iEsculus carnea; all are handsome and very desirable. 

Alnus {Alder). 

A genus of hardy deciduous trees or shrubs which delight 
in moist situations, preferably on the banks of a perennial run- 
ning stream. They form handsome upright clean-stemmed trees 
with roundish leaves and grow to a height of from fifty to eighty 
feet. They are not particular as to soil, provided they are given 
plenty of water at the root and a sheltered situation. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, in the open ground 
and covered not more than one-quarter of an inch deep; the 
following Winter, plant them in nursery rows one foot apart; 
when they are three feet high, plant them where they are to 
remain. 

Aloysia Citriodora {Sweet Scented Verbena). 

Hardy deciduous shrubs with sweet-scented leaves and in- 
conspicuous lilac-colored flowers. In the Eastern States and in 
Europe these shrubs are grown in the greenhouse where they are 
general favorites for cutting. In California they grow to the 
height of ten feet or more, having trunks six inches (and even 
greater) in diameter. They flourish in any good garden soil and 
stand a reasonable amount of exposure. 

Propagation of the Aloysia is effected by cuttings of the 
young wood placed in a cool frame in sandy soil in early Sum- 
mer. They should be shaded, during sunshine, for a period of 
two weeks and should be potted singly in two-inch pots as soon 
as the cuttings are rooted. 

[68] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Amygdalus {Ahnond). 

This well-known hardy, ornamental, deciduous, vigorous 
grower is one of the earliest and most free-flowering of our 
trees and shrubs, the common single sometimes opening its pink 
blossoms as early as the middle of January, followed by the 
double-flowered varieties which succeed each other carrying the 
season well into April. 

Any good soil, if well drained, suits the Almond, and, if the 
soil is kept cultivated, the tree requires no artificial irrigation 
except in very dry seasons. 

The single-flowered species are propagated by seeds planted 
one inch deep in the open ground, in Fall or early Spring, and 
the double varieties by budding on the common Almond or on 
seedling plum-stocks in Summer. 

Araucaria. 

A genus of noble evergreen trees of vigorous habit and formal 
symmetrical outline having horizontal branches in regular 
whorls, natives of South America and Australia. All are very 
desirable trees for large grounds and parks. 

They delight in a good strong loam free from stagnant 
moisture but must have frequent waterings at the roots during 
the Summer months. 

Araucaria Bidwellii, Araucaria Braziliensis, Araucaria Cookii, 
Araucaria excelsa, and Araucaria imbricata all make splendid 
ornamental trees in this climate. 

Propagate by seeds planted point down, pressed into the soil 
half their length, as soon as received (no matter at what time), 
in a cold frame and left without being disturbed until the follow- 
ing Spring when they should be planted in nursery rows and 
again transplanted each year until large enough to be placed in 
their permanent sites. 

[69] 



Gardening in Californi 



Arbutus. 

Among the many species of Arbutus are several of our most 
handsome evergreen trees. The Madrone (Arbutus Menziesii) 
and the Strawberry tree (Arbutus unedo) both do splendidly in 
California. Their large, glossy, smooth leaves of elliptical shape, 
their fragrant heath-like white flowers and their bunches of red 
or yellow berries in the Autumn make them features in the land- 
scape or shrubbery. 

Propagate by sowing the seeds in the open ground as soon 
as they are ripe, covering them to the depth of a quarter of an 
inch. Transplant the seedlings, when a year old, into nursery 
rows, setting them six inches apart. They should be replanted 
each year until they become large enough to be planted where 
they are to remain. 

AucuBA Japonica. 

A genus of evergreen hardy shrubs with laurel-like leaves 
smooth and glossy in appearance, bearing bunches of scarlet ber- 
ries late in the Fall. They are exceedingly effective in the shrub- 
bery during the Winter months when color is most needed. They 
delight in plenty of water during the growing season. 

They make handsome veranda plants, grown in large pots or 
boxes, especially when in fruit. There are several varieties with 
variegated foliage such as Picta alba variegata, bicolor and aurea. 

To insure a good supply of the very ornamental berries, which 
are produced on the female plant only, hand fertilizing may be 
necessary. The time for applying the pollen is when the pistil 
exudes a slightly gummy substance. Should the pollen be ripe 
before the pistil is mature, it may be preserved by being collected 
on a piece of dry paper and kept in a dry place. It should be 
applied with a camel's hair brush. The pollen retains its power 
for two weeks or perhaps a little longer. Any well-drained 

[70] 



Trees and Shrub 



garden soil is suitable for growing the Aucuba, and any situation 
not in the glaring hot sun. It does remarkably well even in the 
dust and smoke of the city. 

Propagate by cuttings from short-jointed half -ripe wood 
placed in sandy soil in a cool frame in September; shade during 
sunshine for the first two weeks. It can also be propagated by 
sowing the seeds one-quarter of an inch deep as soon as ripe or in 
March. Remove the fleshy coating from the seeds before sowing. 

Azalea. 




Azalea. 



A genus of evergreen or 
deciduous flowering shrubs 
which should be seen in 
every collection as they are 
all free-flowering and of 
good habit of growth. They 
delight in a half-shady situ- 
ation protected from harsh 
winds and strong sun- 
shine, and away from cold 
draughts. They prefer a 
light sandy soil and abun- 
dance of water within reach of their roots. 

Propagate, in June or July by cuttings of half-ripe wood 
taken off with a heel; insert them in pots filled with soil com- 
posed of half silver-sand, half leaf-mold well mixed together; 
place them in a cool frame, and shade, during sunshine, until 
rooted. When rooted, plant them in small pots and return them 
to the frame; shade them until they form fresh roots when they 
should be placed in a shady spot out of doors or preferably in 
a lath house, the object being to keep the plants as cool as possible. 

The evergreen species seem to do best when grown in pots in 

[71] 



Gardening in California 



a lath-house or under the shade of a deciduous tree, being brought 
into the greenhouse only during the season of flowering which is 
in late Winter and early Spring. As soon as they finish flowering, 
the seed-pods should be picked off and the plants returned to the 
lath-house so as to make their young growth. As their roots are 
very fine, the soil should never be allowed to become dry. The 
deciduous species are best grown in the open border partially 
shaded by deciduous trees. 

AZARA MiCROPHYLLA. 

A showy evergreen shrub with small box-like foliage and of 
graceful habit of growth, bearing fragrant flowers succeeded by 
orange-colored berries. Being a native of Chile, it is well adapted 
to our climate. 

Propagate by cuttings of firm wood of present season's growth, 
placed in sand, in cold frame in September or early in October. 

Banksia. 

The Banksia is a very desirable class of small trees or shrubs, 
native of Australia. It has handsome serrated leaves (covered 
with white down) and brilliant masses of feathery-looking 
flowers making a pleasing effect in the garden or shrubbery. 

In Australia the Banksia is known 'as the Scrub Honeysuckle 
from the fact that when the cylindrical-shaped flowers are in full 
bloom they contain a sweet honey-like liquid. 

The genus contains many varieties and grows in any soil well 
drained even if it be the poorest sand. 

Propagate by seeds, which should be sown as soon as received, 
in soil composed of half sand and half leaf-mold; cover the seeds 
one-quarter of an inch deep and place them in a cold frame. 
When the seedlings are one inch high, pot them singly in two-inch 
pots. 

[72] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Benthamia. 

Hardy evergreen small trees or shrubs, natives of Japan and 
South Africa. They have white cornus-like flowers which con- 
tinue in bloom for nearly two months. The reddish strawberry- 
like fruit hangs on the tree late into the winter, making the plant 
a very desirable one for the shrubbery border. 

The Benthamia is not particular as to soil and requires very 
little irrigation. 

Propagate by seeds sown in early Spring, in the open border 
or in a cold frame, in light soil. The seeds should be covered to 
the depth of one-quarter of an inch and the young plants should 
be transplanted when they are a year old. 



Berberis (Berberry). 

The Berberis is a genus of shrubs of which many varieties 
have handsome shiny compound leaves while the leaves of others 
are small, round, oval or holly-like. 

Berberis aquifolium, one of the favorite varieties, is a native 
of California and Oregon. It delights in a shady hillside, mak- 
ing a very good undergrowth. 

Berberis Darwinii is a beautiful Winter-blooming plant. It 
forms a dense bush, and, when covered with its bright orange- 
colored flowers, makes a striking effect. 

Berberis Nepaulense also has yellow flowers and compound 
leaves with from six to ten pairs of leaflets of a rich holly-green ; 
it bears large clusters of purple berries during the Winter months. 
It should be planted in a shady spot protected from drying winds. 

Berberis Japonica is another of the Nepaul type with com- 
pound leaves and purple fruit. Other desirable kinds are steno- 
phylla, buxifolia and loxensis. 

Propagate by seeds sown about one-eighth of an inch deep as 
soon as ripe, or by layers, suckers or cuttings put in sandy soil the 
end of September or early in October. 

[73] 



Gardening in California 



Betula Alba {Birch). 

The Birch is a highly ornamental deciduous tree of graceful, 
sometimes drooping habit, bearing light-green leaves. All of the 
species are hardy and will grow freely in any well-drained soil, 
provided they get abundance of water at the roots, A situation 
on or about a well-kept lawn suits the Birch admirably if well- 
sheltered from harsh winds. Fine effects are produced by com- 
bining the Birch with the Bamboo, as, when planted in group 
form, their habits of growth blend well together. 

Propagate by seeds which should be sown as soon as ripe in 
a shady border in light sandy soil; barely cover the seeds with 
the soil. The seedlings should be transplanted, when a year old, 
into nursery rows. 

BOUVARDIA. 



A very useful Fall-flowering 
little shrub with opposite leaves 
and tubular-shaped fragrant 
flowers, a native of Mexico and 
Texas. Bouvardia angustifolia, 
Bouvardia scabra and Bouvardia 
jasminiflora are among the best 
for outdoor culture. 

Propagate by cuttings put in 
a cold frame early in August, 
using half-ripe wood, or in the 
open ground, in November, in 
sandy soil, using firm ripe wood, 
the cuttings to be about six 

inches in length, of the previous season's growth and planted 

four inches deep, 

[74] 



^M 


i^H 


"^ \ & i>r3«»ji. 


wW^ 


^^^^^KB-mmSSm i 


'^~i''*^K 


^m"^ 


i-.S 







Bouvardia. 



Trees and Shrubs 



Buxus (fl^he I'ree Boxvjood). 



This is an excellent shrub 
for the coast counties, being 
evergreen and of a dense habit; 
it requires no pruning. Slow of 
growth and always clear of dust, 
it gets along with little water. 
It should also make an excellent 
box plant for verandas, etc. It 
thrives in any garden soil. 

Some very good varieties 
have been introduced from Ja- 
pan, several of them with larger 
leaves and more vigorous habit 





^W^'^^ 


■ ---i^i^ 




p jjylj 




w 


jjj^l 




' 


J^j 


■ 


1 


Hi 


p 



Buxus. 



of growth than any of the Euro- 
pean species, one of these being Buxus Japonica, which grows 
to the height of ten feet, while Buxus Japonica variety micro- 
phylla has very small leaves, grows rather conical in shape and 
forms a dense bush. 

Buxus longifolia (a native of Northern India) has narrow 
elliptic-shaped leaves. Buxus Balearica is the largest grower 
of the genus, has yellowish-green leaves and, in good soil, grows 
to the height of thirty feet. Buxus suffruticosa, the dwarf spe- 
cies, is much used in formal gardening, in making edges to foot- 
paths and flower-beds, and in bordering walks in vegetable 
gardens. 

Propagate by cuttings six inches long, inserted four inches 
in sandy soil at any time between September and February. 

When the cuttings are of the dwarf variety, for an edging 
or border, they should be planted singly about one inch apart. 



[75] 



Gardening in Californi 



Callistemon. 




Call'utcmon. 



A genus of very pretty 
Summer and Fall-flowering 
shrubs with narrow pointed 
leaves and showy flowers. 
All are graceful in habit 
and grow well in any fair 
garden soil where they re- 
quire very little attention 
if the ground is cultivated 
once a year and kept loose 
on the surface and clear of 
weeds. 
There are several species all natives of Australia. 
Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in April. 
When the seedlings are three inches high, pot them singly in 
three-inch pots or plant them three inches apart in boxes, in light, 
sandy soil; keep the young plants in pots or boxes until the 
following Spring when they will be large enough to be planted 
in the open ground in nursery rows or in their permanent 
quarters. 

Calycanthus {Carol'ma Allspice'). 

The Calycanthus is a handsome deciduous shrub with sweet- 
scented red or yellow-brown flowers, native of this State, the 
Southern States and Japan. 

It grows in any good soil, which is well drained, and prefers 
a well-sheltered situation. 

Propagate by sowing the seeds during Spring in a cold frame, 
covering the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of an inch ; also by 
division of the roots of the older plants in Winter or early Spring. 



\7(^\ 



Trees and Shrubs 



Camellia. 



A genus of hardy evergreen 
trees or shrubs of elegant habit, 
bearing gorgeous vari-colored 
flowers. Some are single, many 
are semi-double, and hundreds of 
varieties have double flowers in 
all shades of red, pink, and 
white or beautifully mottled or 
striped. With a good well- 
selected variety, they may be 
had in bloom for four or five 
months beginning in January. 

The Camellia loves a par- 
tially-shaded situation away 

from cold winds, good, deep, sandy soil and plenty of water dur- 
ing the Summer months. 

Propagate, in September, by cuttings, or by layering in the 
usual manner in June and July, or by seeds sown one-quarter of 
an inch deep as soon as delivered or in the early Spring. 




Camellia. 



Caragana. 

Hardy deciduous ornamental trees and shrubs with pinnate 
leaves and pea-shaped flowers, mostly natives of Siberia and 
Northern China. They grow in any garden soil. 

Propagate, between November and February, by cuttings of 
the roots or by layers, or by seeds sown in Spring. Cover the 
seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch. 



77 



Gardening in California 



Carpinus Betulus (Hornbean). 

A hardy deciduous tree with simple leaves and flowers in 
catkins. It stands exposure well, grows in any soil, and should 
make a good street tree where deciduous low-growing trees are 
preferred. 

It also forms a very good hedge and stands clipping well. 
As the leaves remain on the branches throughout the Winter, it 
forms an excellent shelter, standing the winds and storms better 
than most deciduous trees. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one-quarter of 
an inch deep in the open ground; transplant the seedlings to 
the nursery row when they are one year old. If they are wanted 
for hedge purposes, they should be cut back to six inches when 
transplanted so as to make them branch closely to the ground. 

Carya. 

A handsome, slow-growing tree with pinnate, walnut-like, 
light-green, deciduous leaves. It is of a spreading habit and 
delights in good, rich, bottom soil and a sheltered situation. The 
wood is heavy, hard, tough and strong. The nuts of many spe- 
cies such as the pecan and the shagbark are of good flavor and 
are produced in large quantities on the older trees. Any one 
having a piece of land by the side of a creek where the soil is 
deep and rich and the situation well-sheltered should plant a 
few Hickories. 

Carya alba (the shell-bark Hickory) makes a grand speci- 
men from sixty to seventy feet high. 

Carya olivaeformis (the Pecan nut tree) also becomes a 
splendid tree. It differs in habit from the Hickory, being more 
upright in its form and having from twelve to fifteen leaflets 
on each leaf. 

Propagate by seeds planted in Fall or Winter one inch deep 
where they are intended to remain permanently. 

[78] 



Trees and Shrubs 




Cassia. 

This is one of the most com- 
mon of our California garden 
shrubs which gives a fine show 
of pea-shaped yellow flowers in 
Winter. It has pinnate leaves 
and grows from six to twelve 
feet in height. It should be 
pruned back each Spring so that 
the plant will keep in shape and 
make strong shoots. It flowers 
most freely on the previous 
year's wood. It thrives in any 
garden soil and requires no arti- Cassia. 

ficial irrigation if the ground is 
kept cultivated and clear of weeds. 

There are several varieties of this popular shrub including 
C. corymbosa, C. Marylandica, C. sophora, etc., all being of 
easy culture. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in a cold 
frame in early Spring; when the young seedlings are three inches 
high, they should be potted or planted either in boxes or in the 
open ground. 

Castanea (Chestnut). 

The sweet or Spanish Chestnut is a large spreading deciduous 
tree of good habit and very ornamental. It delights in a shel- 
tered situation and should have deep, well-drained, sandy loam. 
Never plant it in a cold clay subsoil. 

Propagate by seeds sown, one inch deep in the open ground 
between November and February. The following Spring trans- 
plant the seedlings into nursery rows one foot apart between the 
plants and two feet between the rows. 

[79] 



Gardening in California 



Casuarina {She Oak). 




L asuaniia. 



The Casuarinas are a 
genus of jointed leafless 
trees which have a very dis- 
tinct and peculiar effect in 
any landscape, their long, 
drooping, feather-like habit 
being quite different from 
that of any other tree. 
They reach a height of 
from sixty to eighty feet, 
are evergreen, grow in any 
soil, stand exposure well 

and should be planted more commonly than they are. 

Propagate by cuttings put into a cold frame in the Fall and 

potted off in Spring or as soon as they are well-rooted; also by 

seeds sown in Spring. Cover the seeds to the depth of one-eighth 

of an inch. 

Ceanothus {California Lilac). 



This elegant native of our hill- 
sides deserves more attention from 
planters than it now receives, few 
flowering-shrubs equalling it for 
grouping in large grounds or as 
single plants in small gardens. Its 
graceful habit of growth, its deep- 
green leaves, and its showers of 
blue or white panicles of sweet- 
scented blossoms make it effective 
in any garden. Its culture is very 
simple as it seems to thrive and 
bloom in the poorest soils and in 
all aspects. r go ] 




Ceanothus. 



Trees and Shrub 



Propagate by sowing the seeds one-sixteenth of an inch deep, 
in the open ground in early Spring, and transplanting, where 
required, the following season. 




Ci'drus Libani. 
{^YouHg specimen). 



Cedrus. 

A majestic evergreen coniferous 
tree with large spreading branches. 
It delights in a deep well-drained 
gravelly loam and a sheltered situa- 
tion where it grows to the height of 
from eighty to one hundred feet. 

Cedrus Libani (the Cedar of 
Lebanon) is of similar habit to our 
Monterey Cypress, both as a young 
tree (when its habit is pyramidal) 
and as a full-grown specimen when 
it assumes the spreading, picturesque 
form, with horizontal branches and 
broad flat head of dark mossy-green 
foliage, which is so greatly admired. 

Cedrus Atlantica (from Mount Atlas) is very similar in 
appearance to Cedrus Libani, being, however, more pyramidal 
in habit and having a lighter, more glaucous-colored leaf. Cedrus 
Atlantica glauca, a silvery-leafed form of Cedrus Atlantica, is 
a most desirable variety on account of its striking, silvery-grey 
effect when planted among trees which have dark-green foliage. 

Cedrus Deodora (the East Indian Cedar) becomes a much 
larger tree than any other of the species, growing, under favor- 
able conditions, to the height of two hundred feet and having a 
stem over ten feet in diameter. When young it is a gracefully 
pyramidal tree, densely set with leaves of a glaucous 'green. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep, in 
Spring or as soon as ripe. 

[8i] 



Gardening in California 



Cerasus. 




Portugal Laurel. 



A genus of hardy, deciduous, 
or evergreen trees or shrubs, 
many species of which are highly 
ornamental, our native, ever- 
green species being in many re- 
spects the most handsome of all. 
Its shiny dark-green, holly-like 
leaves and bushy habit make it 
a general favorite with planters. 
It grows freely in any garden 
soil which is well-drained, pre- 
ferring a loose rocky soil with 
an Eastern exposure. The so- 
called English Laurel and the 
Portuguese species are also much admired, and the Chinese, 
double-flowering deciduous species is one of our gayest Spring- 
flowering shrubs. 

Our native species Cerasus ilicifolia is propagated by seeds 
sown one-half of an inch deep, in early Spring, either where they 
are to remain, or singly in pots where they should be kept until 
they are from twelve to eighteen inches high. 

The English and Portuguese Laurels may be propagated by 
seeds sown, one-quarter of an inch deep, in the open ground in 
early Spring, or by cuttings planted in October in sandy soil in 
the open ground where they should be kept for one year and then 
planted in nursery rows until required. 

Cerasus serrulata and other double-flowering varieties are 
propagated by budding on the common Cherry about May. 



82] 



Trees and Shrub 




Cercis {Judas T^ree). 

An ornamental, hardy, deciduous, 
low-growing tree with heart-shaped 
leaves and pea-shaped flowers which 
thickly crowd the branches, flowering 
before the leaves open. When in bloom 
in early Spring it gives a very good 
effect. It grows in the foothills of the 
State by the sides of creeks, mixing very 
prettily with the alder and the willow, 
and, when in flower, may be seen for 
miles, causing the traveller to wonder 
what the striking object is. It delights 
in rich, moist, well-drained soil in a Cercis. 

semi-shaded situation away from the wind. It is propagated by 
seeds sown, in early Spring, one-quarter of an inch deep in the 
open ground. 

Cestrum. 

An evergreen shrub of upright 
habit and variously-colored flowers in 
cymes or fascicles blooming in Win- 
ter or early Spring. It should have a 
well-sheltered position and does best in 
light sandy soil, not being hardy where 
the temperature falls below twenty-six 
degrees Fahrenheit. The best known 
species are Cestrum elegans (purplish- 
red), Cestrum fasciculatum and Ces- 
trum aurantiacum (yellow), all natives 
of Mexico. 

Cestrum. Propagate by cuttings placed in 

cold frame, in soil composed of half sand and half leaf-mold, 
in September; shade from the sun until rooted. 

[83] 




Gardening in California 



Choisya ternata. 




Choisya ternata. 



One of our best, Winter- 
blooming shrubs, having ternate 
leaves and white sweet-scented 
flowers. It should have a place 
even in the smallest collection, 
being of dwarf, bushy habit and 
very free-flowering. It grows in 
any good garden soil. 

Propagate by cuttings, in 
cool frame, put into half sand 
half leaf-soil in early May or as 
soon as the blooming season is 



over, or in August after 
young wood is half-ripe. 



the 



CisTus (Rock Rose). 



A genus of elegant free- 
flowering small shrubs with 
a large handsome flower 
resembling a single rose. 
This charming genus has a 
large number of species 
which should be more com- 
monly seen in our gardens 
as they are of easy culture 
and require little water for 
their development. Being 
natives of the coast of the 

Mediterranean, they are peculiarly adapted for introduction into 
California. 

[84] 



• -^ . my 









Cist us. 



Trees and Shrub 



They are propagated by seeds sown under glass in Spring 
(the seeds being barely covered by finely-sifted, sandy soil), or 
by cuttings of young wood, three or four inches long, placed in 
soil composed of one-half sand, one-half leaf-mold, in a cold 
frame, either in Spring or Fall; as soon as they are rooted, pot 
them into three-inch pots in soil composed of two-thirds leaf- 
soil and one-third sand with the addition of a little loam. 

Citrus Aurantium {Orange). 

The Orange as a decorative garden tree is not so well known 
as the Orange grown as a fruit tree. It forms, however, most 
charming effects in the landscape when planted either in group 
form or as single specimens on the lawn, especially if grown in 
tree form with a stem of from six to eight feet and a spread of 
branch, fifteen or more feet across, covered densely with its great 
masses of bright evergreen foliage and its beautiful, fragrant, 
white flowers which are nearly always in bloom. It also is 
unexcelled as a winter garden ornament when laden with its 
beautiful golden fruit. There are many highly ornamental spe- 
cies, including Citrus aurantium (the Sweet Orange) a native of 
Asia, Citrus decumana (the Shaddock) with fruit from six to 
eight inches in diameter. Citrus Japonica which makes a very 
pretty bush, Citrus linita (the Lime), Citrus limonei (Lemon), 
Citrus nobilis (Mandarin), Citrus trifoliata (with its prickly 
stems and small ornamental fruit) which makes a handsome 
bush and is also a good hedge plant, and Citrus vulgaris (Bitter 
Orange) which grows to the height of forty feet and is a hand- 
some tree. 

Propagate by seeds, sown one-quarter of an inch deep under 
glass. Transplant the seedlings, when three inches high, into 
nursery rows; keep them in the nursery until they are from 
four to six feet high and then plant them in their permanent 
quarters. The finer varieties may be increased by budding on 
the common stock. 

[85] 



Gardening in California 



Clethra. 

Evergreen and deciduous small trees or shrubs, valuable on 
account of their showy spikes of fragrant white flowers which 
appear late in summer. The evergreen species, (such as Clethra 
arborea) are noted for the laurel effect which their large, glossy 
leaves give. They thrive under our California conditions. 
Clethra arborea (a native of Madeira) is perhaps the finest of 
the species. Clethra quercifolea does exceedingly well in the 
warmer sections of the state. 

Propagate by seeds sown in early Spring in a cool green- 
house temperature (covering the seeds to the depth of an eighth 
of an inch), or by cuttings in sandy leaf -mold placed in a cold 
frame during September. 

The Clethra flourishes in any fair garden soil. 



Clianthus. 

A genus of about three spe- 
cies of hardy evergreen shrubs, 
natives of New Zealand and 
Australia. They have com- 
pound leaves and bear great 
masses of brilliant scarlet pea- 
shaped blossoms, continuing in 
bloom for several months. Cli- 
anthus puniceus is the hardiest 
of the genus and is of the most 
easy culture, growing freely in 
any soil of a sandy nature either 
in the open or in partial shade. 
Propagate by cuttings of 
half-ripe wood inserted in a cold frame in March and shaded from 
hot sunshine until rooted when they should be potted singly in 
three-inch pots and grown on until required. 

[86] 




Clianthus puniceus. 



Trees and Shrubs 



CoPROSMA (New Zealand Holly). 

A genus of handsomely-leaved evergreen shrubs which should 
be in every collection. It grows freely in any situation (even in 
the smoky city garden), its glossy holly-green leaves refusing to 
carry any dust. It contrasts well with our rough-leaved kinds. 

The genus comprises over thirty species, mostly natives of 
New Zealand and other Pacific Islands. Coprosma Baueriana and 
its varieties are the best for cultivation on the Pacific Coast. 
Coprosma picturata and Coprosma variegata, being variegated 
forms of Coprosma Baueriana, are very attractive shrubs. 

This shrub is not so easily propagated as most of our other 
free-flowering shrubs, and should be given extra care in being 
shaded from hot sun. In making the cuttings, slit the lower end 
to the depth of three-quarters of an inch ; insert in a soil composed 
of two-thirds clear sand and one-third well-decomposed leaf- 
mold. Cuttings should be planted in September in a cold frame 
and not overwatered. As soon as rooted, they should be potted 
off in thumb pots, put back into the cutting frame and kept close 
and shaded until they take fresh roots. It may also be propa- 
gated by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in light sandy soil 
in Spring. 

CoRNUs (Dogwood). 

The Dogwood is one of the most attractive of our ornamental 
deciduous shrubs, delighting in semi-shaded moist places, pro- 
tected from winds, and thriving best in light rich soil. One of 
our native species, Cornus Nuttallii, is the finest of the genus, 
growing in favorable situations to a height of from sixty to eighty 
feet, pyramidal in habit, and, in early May when entirely cov- 
ered with its great white bracts, the most conspicuous and attrac- 
tive object in the mountains and foothills. In the Fall, when 
laden with its orange-colored fruit, it gives good effects in the 

[87] 



Gardening in California 



shrubbery. All of the species are very desirable, especially Cor- 
nus sanguinea and Cornus Florida, these making good under- 
growth even in the darkest shade. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy soil in a shaded pro- 
tected border out of doors after the leaves fall in Autumn. They 
may also be increased by division of the roots in Winter or early 
Spring, by seeds sown in Spring and by layering in June. Cover 
the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch. 

CORONILLA. 

Very pretty small-growing ornamental shrubs and perennial 
herbs of easy culture and graceful habit, having glaucous and 
variegated leaves. They are well adapted for planting on the 
margin of shrubbery groups. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in sand in a cold frame early in 
September; leave them in the frame all Winter and pot them 
off in Spring in pots of light rich soil; grow them in pots for a 
year and then plant them in their permanent situations. 

CORYNOCARPUS. 

Handsome evergreen trees, native of New Zealand, with 
laurel-like leaves and pyramidal habit, bearing white flowers and 
plum-like fruit. No evergreen tree or shrub gives a better effect 
in large shrubberies than the Corynocarpus and it should be 
found in even the most choice collection. 

Propagate, at any time from June to September, by cuttings 
taken from half-ripe wood; place them in a cold frame shaded 
from sun, and, when rooted, pot them in three-inch pots; plant 
them in the open ground the following Spring. 



[88 1 



Trees and Shrubs 



COTONEASTER. 

A genus of hardy evergreen 
shrubs with small boxwood-like 
leaves and small white flowers, 
bearing abundant crops of bright- 
red berries which remain conspicu- 
ous for months. It begins to ripen 
in California in July, carrying its 
fruit until the following Spring. 

Propagate by seeds, cuttings or 
layers in the open ground ; sow the 
seeds one-eighth of an inch deep 
in March; put in the cuttings or 
layers any time during the Fall. It 
is of easy culture, requiring very 
little attention beyond being given a 
Summer months. 




Cotoneaster. 



little water during the 



Crataegus (Hazvlkorn). 

A genus of hardy shrubs and small trees with single leaves 
and great sprays of sweet-scented pretty flowers. No hardy 
flowering tree gives finer color effects in the landscape than the 
Hawthorn, whether planted in groups or grown as single speci- 
mens. The Hawthorn prefers a good stiff loam or clayey soil, 
and, if the soil is kept well cultivated, no artificial irrigation 
will be required after the first year. 

Propagate by seeds sown in the Fall, or as soon as the pulpy 

matter can be rotted from the seed; cover to the depth of half an 

inch and transplant the following Winter into nursery rows. 

The red-flowering and double white varieties are propagated by 

budding in May or by grafting in Winter on the common species 

in the usual manner. It should be noted that while some seeds 

germinate the first season, others may not germinate until the 

second year. 

[89] 



Gardening in California 



Cryptomeria. 

A genus comprising only two species, both indigenous to 
Japan. They prefer a rich, moist, well-sheltered situation and 
abundance of water during the Summer months, when they form 
elegant specimens of pyramidal habit. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in a 
cold frame in Spring. When they are four inches high, plant 
them in nursery rows (giving room as required) where they may 
remain until wanted. 



CuPRESSus {Cypress). 

The Monterey Cypress is a uni- 
versal favorite, nearly every garden 
having a representative of this species. 
It makes an excellent wind-break and 
stands exposure as well as, if not bet- 
ter than, any tree we have experi- 
mented with whether indigenous or 
exotic. It is of vigorous habit and 
assumes stately proportions. When 
full grown and when its massive flat 
crown is well-formed, no tree has 
more character or more striking indi- 
viduality. It grows well in any soil 
but prefers rich well-drained loam. 
Cupressus Lawsoniana is of more elegant form than the pre- 
ceding, being of pyramidal habit and graceful outline. Cupressus 
sempervirens (the Italian Cypress) is of a tall tapering habit 
and formal appearance. 

The Cypress makes an excellent hedge. 
All of the species are easily propagated by seeds sown, in the 
early Spring, one-quarter of an inch deep, in boxes, and placed 

[90] 




Cupressus Lawsoniana. 



•*•" 
*" ^ 




9 




::: ::--:^ " ... :'■ 


^^^^K^' ■■" 




^f^P^^l^iV^ ''. 




'*^pwi '*^ 


^^^m 



Cupressus Nutkatensis — the Alaskan Species. 



Trees and Shrub 



in a cold frame. When they are three inches high transplant 
them into boxes (placing them three inches apart) and after- 
wards plant them out in nursery rows about one foot apart. 

Cydonia Japonica {Japan Quince). 

A genus of dwarf deciduous flowering shrubs, opening their 
flowers as early as the middle of January. There are several 
species all of which are very desirable, some having scarlet 
flowers, others bright pink, and one species, (Cydonia Japonica 
alba) bearing flowers of the purest white. They are all an 
easily grown, free-flowering class of plants which should be 
seen in every collection, as they thrive in any soil and require 
little attention. 

They are propagated by layers in July, or by cuttings put in 
the open ground in October. 

Cytissus {Broom). 

A genus of about forty species of 
shrubs bearing pea-shaped flowers in 
great abundance. They are of very 
easy culture, and, without irrigation, 
grow freely in any soil, even the 
poorest. 

Propagate by seeds sown one- 
quarter of an inch deep in the open 
ground or in a cold frame in early 
Spring. When the seedlings are four 
inches high, transplant them into 
nursery rows and grow them on until 
required. Cytissus racemosus and 
others of the class may also be in- 
creased by cuttings, placed in a cold frame in October, and 
shaded from sunshine until rooted, when they should be potted 
singly in small pots. 

[93] 




Broom. 



Gardening in California 



Daphne. 



A genus of very ornamental evergreen or deciduous shrubs, 
their sweet-scented flowers and compact habit of growth making 
them desirable for planting in our shrubberies. 

They prefer a warm, sheltered situation, away from harsh 
winds and hot sunshine, and a soft brown soil with perfect 
drainage. 

Propagate by cuttings placed, in September, in a cool frame 
and left there until calloused. They should then be placed in 
a gentle bottom heat when they will soon make root and be 
ready for potting in three-inch pots; give them root-room as 
required. 



l!J^ 



Datura {Cornucopia Flower). 

Herbs, shrubs or trees with 
large entire tongue-shaped 
leaves, bearing trumpet-shaped 
flowers sometimes over a foot 
long. The flowers are of various 
colors, including white, orange 
and red. Some varieties are very 
fragrant, especially at night. 
They grow well in any good 
garden soil with ordinary care. 
The best kinds are Datura 
sanguinea. Datura arborea. Da- 
tura suaveolens and Datura 
carnigera. 

Propagate by cuttings of half-ripe wood placed in sandy 
soil in a cold frame in October; as soon as they are rooted, plant 
them in pots, and, in early Spring, plant them in the open ground. 




Datura suaveolens. 



94 



Trees and Shrubs 



Deutzia. 

A genus of hardy, deciduous, strong-growing shrubs of easy 
culture, which, on account of their free-flowering qualities should 
have a place in every garden however small. They thrive in 
almost any soil, and well repay the trouble incurred in their 
cultivation. 

Deutzia crenata grows to a height of about ten feet; Deutzia 
gracilis has a dwarf compact habit and should be planted on the 
margin of a group of taller shrubs, where it will give a fine finish 
to the group. 

Propagate by cuttings of the ripe wood placed in the open 
ground in November; when they are rooted run them into nur- 
sery rows; give them room as required. 

DiERVILLEA OR WeIGELIA. 

A genus of hardy ornamental low-growing deciduous shrubs, 
mostly natives of China and Japan. No shrubbery is complete 
without a collection of these elegant free-flowering shrubs. They 
grow well in any garden soil and repay the attention bestowed on 
them. They bloom in early Spring and continue in bloom for 
a good length of time. As soon as the plants are finished bloom- 
ing, prune the previous year's growth back to within six inches 
of its growth, so as to encourage the plants to throw out strong 
shoots, the best flowers always being found on the growth of the 
previous year. 

Propagate by cuttings (made of the previous Summer's 
growth) about six inches long placed in sandy soil in the open 
ground in November or as soon as the leaves are all off. In the 
Spring, as soon as the cuttings are well rooted, plant them in 
nursery rows for a year when they may be transplanted into 
their place in the shrubbery. 



[95] 



Gardening in California 



DiosMA {Breath of Heaven'). 

A genus of heath-like graceful shrubs with grass-like leaves 
and crowds of delicate white flowers. On account of its ex- 
quisite fragrance and delicate foliage this plant is much used 
in decorating and filling vases. It delights in a light, sandy soil 
and plenty of water. As it is rather a dwarf grower, it should 
be planted near the walks or on the edges of shrub-groups, for 
if planted among strong-growing shrubs it is apt to get lost or 
grown over. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in a propagating house in gentle 
heat at any time between April and September; after they are 
rooted, pot them singly in thumb pots, giving them larger pots 
as required and using leafy sandy soil. 



EcHiuM {Viper's bugloss). 

A group of shrubby or herbaceous 
plants with large tongue-shaped leaves 
of a glaucous color thickly covered with 
fine hairs. They bear immense spikes 
of blue, pink or white flowers, forming 
very striking objects in the shrubbery, 
their large gray leaves effectively con- 
trasting with their bright-blue flowers. 
They grow well in any good garden 
soil. 

Propagate by seeds sown one- 
sixteenth of an inch deep in the early 
Spring, or by cuttings placed in sand in 
a cold frame in October or November; 

grow them in pots for one year and plant them in the shrubbery 

the following Spring. 




Echium. 



[96] 



Trees and Shrub 



Eleagnus (Wdld Olive). 

A small genus of evergreen or deciduous shrubs of easy 
growth and attractive appearance, their glaucous downy leaves 
giving a soft effect when well placed in the landscape. The 
flowers are inconspicuous, their chief attraction being their leaves 
and fruit and also their graceful habit of growth. They do best 
in light sandy soil. 

Propagate by seeds or cuttings placed, in October, in the 
open ground in sandy soil. Cover the seeds to the depth of one- 
eighth of an inch. 



Erica (Heath Family), 

A most extensive genus comprising 
over four hundred species, all hardy in 
California, most of them being natives of 
the Cape of Good Hope and the Austra- 
lian group. They ought to be seen in 
gardens more commonly than they are, as 
many of them are very easily grown and 
blossom in Winter and early Spring when 
flowers are scarce. They are among the 
most attractive of our flowering shrubs, 
and, as they are generally slow-growing 
and of neat habit, are well adapted for 
small gardens. All the care necessary is 
to give them a sandy soil, plenty of water, 

and a prune back immediately after flowering so as to encourage 
the forming of young growth on which they will flower the 
following season. 

In Europe and the East great care and considerable skill are 
thought necessary to grow these plants successfully. There they 
must be grown in pots, in specially prepared soil, in greenhouses 

[97] 




Erica persolnta alba. 



Gardening in California 



and watered carefully. Even with the best of care however 
they often there die oif suddenly or are attacked by mildew, etc., 
and thrown into poor health, whereas here they seem to grow 
without any special care, giving grand results. 

The best for every-day culture are Erica persoluta. Erica 
gracilis, Erica hymalis, Erica melanthera. Erica Willmore- 
ana, Erica arborea, Erica ventricosa. Erica capitata. Erica hy- 
brida. Erica Mediterranea and their varieties. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in a cool frame late in the Fall, 
October or early in November being the best season; shade them 
from bright sunshine; pot them off as soon as rooted, in thumb 
pots, in sandy, leafy soil. 

Erythrina {Coral I'ree). 

A genus of plants with trifoliate leaves and pea-shaped 
flowers mostly dark-red in color (the individual flowers being 
of large size and generally in large clusters) forming very strik- 
ing objects in the garden or pleasure-ground. They delight in 
good heavy loam and plenty of water during the Summer months, 
and revel in our hottest sun. They do well nearly all over the 
State excepting close to the coast where the cool fogs of Summer 
are not agreeable to their sun-loving nature. 

The tree species, Erythrina Humei, grows to the height of 
from forty to sixty feet. It is a native of South Africa. 

Erythrina indica is another of the family which ought to 
do better in California than experiments so far have shown. It 
grows to the height of about thirty feet and is a free bloomer, 
having great masses of pea-shaped, brilliant scarlet flowers. 

These have several varieties which should be placed in warm, 
sheltered spots in our gardens. 

Propagate by seeds sown in early Spring one-eighth of an 
inch deep in hot-bed; plant in permanent quarters the following 
May or early June. 

[98] 



Trees and Shrubs 




Escallonia rosea. 



ESCALLONIA 

The Escallonias may be 
classed among our most 
useful shrubs, doing well 
however situated either as 
regards soil or exposure. 
They are natives of the 
cooler countries of South 
America, principally Chile 
and Patagonia. They all 
are evergreen and free- 
growing, so make excellent 
hedges, besides being very 
good plants for heavy grouping. Another good quality is their 
habit of blooming late in the Fall and early Winter, when color 
is scarce, the Escallonia Montevidensis with its great bundle of 
terminal white blossoms having a very striking effect in November 
and December. The red-flowering Escallonia rubra and pink- 
flowering Escallonia rosea, the flowers of which contrast finely 
with the glossy green of the leaves, are much admired by lovers 
of fine shrubs. 

There are about thirty-five species of this interesting family, 
all of them hardy, standing well the strongest winds and thriv- 
ing even close to the ocean if not too near the salt spray. They 
make splendid pillar plants for the terrace or formal garden. 

They stand pruning and are easily transplanted at almost 
any season. All the preparation necessary is to cut the plant 
well back, pruning off the small limbs and leaves so that only 
the larger branches remain. The roots should be dug up without 
any soil attached and, after being planted, the plant should be 
given a good watering. In a few weeks it will show new growth. 

Propagate by cuttings put in sandy leaf-mold in a cold 
frame in October; the following Spring plant them out in nursery 
rows until large enough to be planted in their permanent quarters. 

[99] 



Gardening in Californi 



Eucalyptus {Australian Gu7ii). 

This genus is one of the most useful of our introduced 
exotics. True, it is sometimes found to be a nuisance, 
especially when the common Blue Gum has been planted in good 
soil along narrow streets and its roots have been within reach of 
a poorly laid sewer, for it will find out poor work more quickly 
than most sewer inspectors, the tiniest crack or the smallest pin- 
hole being surely discovered by the roots of this rampant gross 
feeder. Should a pin-hole be left in the sewer pipe, the Euca- 
lyptus quickly enters and in a very short time fills the pipe so full 
of roots, that it stops up the entire pipe, sometimes for the dis- 
tance of a hundred feet. This is not the situation for a Eucalyptus 
of the globulus variety, but the tree merits a place in the 
landscape and that place should be a prominent one. In an out 
of the way corner which cannot be used for any other crop, or, 
on some high knoll where shelter is needed and little else will 
grow, Eucalyptus globulus (Blue Gum) can be planted to ad- 
vantage, but there are many other species which may be intro- 
duced and which give fine effects even in the most choice 
collections. 

For instance take Eucalyptus piperita : when grown in a suit- 
able place it is as graceful as the Birch; and no Willow has a finer 
drooping effect than Eucalyptus saligna with its willow-shaped 
leaves; or again, the red-flowering variety (Eucalyptus leucoxy- 
lon, var. macrocarpa), when laden with its bright-pink, myrtle- 
like blossoms has a most striking effect in the landscape, while 
the scarlet-blooming Eucalyptus ficifolia is very effective even in 
small gardens as are also Eucalyptus cornuta (yellow flowered), 
Eucalyptus titragous (crimson-flowered and a dwarf grower), 
and Eucalyptus Landsdowniana, (also a dwarf grower with 
small red flowers and rather broad dark-green leaves). Still 
another dwarf grower of bushy habit is the Eucalyptus pyra- 
formis so named on account of the pea shape of the calyx; this 

[ 100 ] 




Eucalyptus ficifoHa. 



Trees and Shrubs 



species has pink flowers and is said to grow in the poorest lands 
such as in the dryest regions of South Australia. Eucalyptus 
corymbosa and its varieties give graceful foliage effects where 
room can be spared for them. Eucalyptus viminalis is a species 
which is almost indispensable where trees of a graceful or semi- 
drooping habit of growth are desired. Where the rainfall is 
light and a symmetrical well-balanced top is desired, the Eucalyp- 
tus corynocalyx can be safely recommended as it has been proven 
beyond a doubt to survive our dryest seasons, even when most 
of the strong vigorous growers, like Eucalyptus globulus and 
Eucalyptus amygdalina, have died off for lack of sufficient 
moisture. Eucalyptus amygdalina is said to be the tallest- 
growing tree in the world, attaining, in the valleys of its native 
country, to the height of between five hundred and six hundred 
feet ; it has rather dense foliage and a bright-green leaf. Eucalyp- 
tus sideroxylon (the iron bark) is one of the most desirable for 
planting in our interior valleys as it stands drought well; it is 
best known by its dark-brown iron-like persistent bark, red flowers 
and light-gray foliage; planted in group-form it gives a most 
striking effect in the landscape. 

There is a great variety of this family of Australian trees, 
and, where space can be secured or spared, that space can be 
profitably used for planting the different species of this very 
ornamental and useful genus. 

Propagation is by seeds. Sow the seeds in boxes or pots filled 
with light sandy soil, in March or early in April ; cover the seeds 
lightly with sandy leaf-mold, and water thoroughly. Place in 
a cold frame and shade lightly during hot sunshine until the 
seeds have germinated; as soon as they have made four leaflets, 
remove the sash from the frame and replace it with a lathed 
cover to protect the seedlings from strong sunshine and also 
from the ravages of birds. When the plants are two inches high, 
transplant them into boxes about four and one-half inches deep 
filled with good strong loam, planting them about three inches 

[ 103] 



Gardening in California 



apart. Return them to a situation similar to the one from which 
they were taken; give them a good watering and keep them 
shaded during strong sunshine for a few days, afterwards gradu- 
ally exposing them to the open air. Plant them, in March or 
April, where they are to remain. 

Eugenia. 



The Eugenias belong to the 
Myrtle family and are very de- 
sirable shrubs or small trees, 
growing to the height of from 
twenty-five to thirty feet. They 
have a handsome pyramidal 
habit of growth, their myrtle- 
like leaves being tinted with 
pink in their growing state. 
They give a very good effect in 
the shrubbery, and, when cov- 
ered with their white myrtle-like 
flowers, or later with their red- 
dish globular-shaped fruit, make 

handsome ornaments in our grounds. Eugenia myrtifolia and 

Eugenia Smithiana (or Eugenia latifolia as it is sometimes 

named) are the best varieties for this coast. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy soil in a cold frame, 

in October, or by seeds sown in early Spring, also in a cold frame. 

Cover the seeds to the depth of one-sixteenth of an inch. 




Eugenia latifolia. 



EuoNYMus (Spindle T'ree). 

A genus of evergreen or deciduous trees and shrubs, natives 
of Europe, Asia, Japan and the United States, with opposite 
leaves and small inconspicuous flowers. All are hardy in 

[ 104] 



Trees and Shrub 



California and of easy growth, standing the harsh winds of the 
coast counties very well and enduring rough treatment of every 
kind better than most of our common shrubs do. Some of the 
variegated kinds are considered to be among our most orna- 
mental shrubs. 

Euonymus grandiflorus grows to the height of twenty feet. 

Euonymus Japonica is the most attractive of the species 
being smooth-leaved, of good habit and carrying no dust, with 
small white flowers, and is also very handsome in the Fall and 
Winter when covered with its bright-red berries. It is exceed- 
ingly effective when grouped about the margins of the lawn or 
as a background for more delicate shrubs, also when massed with 
Laurel, Pittosporum, Veronica and others. There are many 
varieties of this useful and ornamental shrub. Euonymus 
Japonica aurea, Euonymus Japonica argentea and Euonymus 
Japonica Due de Anjou are all very desirable. 

Euonymus latifolia, the broad-leaved Euonymus, is another 
of the type which should be in every collection as should also 
be its varieties with their gold or silver variegated leaves. 

Propagate by cuttings of the last season's growth inserted, 
in October, in sandy soil, or by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch 
deep in early Spring; in either case place in a cold frame. 

EXOCHORDIA. 

This shrub is a native of North China, belonging to the 
Spireas, and is sometimes named Spirea grandiflora. Its habit 
of growth resembles the Philadelphus and it should group well 
with the members of that family. It opens its handsome white 
clusters early in June, remaining in flower about one month. 

Propagate by cuttings of the ripe wood placed in sandy soil 
in the open border in November, or by suckers formed at the base 
of the plants in Winter, or by layers in the Fall, or by seeds sown 
one-eighth of an inch deep in the open ground as soon as ripe in 
the Fall. 

[105] 



Gardening in California 




Fabiaiia. 



Fabiana. 

An evergreen heath-like shrub of 
a stiff, erect habit of growth and bear- 
ing a profusion of small funnel- 
shaped flowers. It should be pruned 
back within a few inches of the pre- 
vious year's growth as soon as the 
flowering season is over, this treat- 
ment insuring for the plant a much 
better shape than if it were allowed 
to take its natural habit of growth. 

Propagate by cuttings of half-ripe 
wood placed in a cold frame in Sep- 
tember or early in October or in early 
Spring before growth commences. 



Fagus Sylvatica (Beech). 

The Beech in the Eastern States and in Europe is a noble 
symmetrical tree requiring very little attention and growing in 
almost any soil which is well drained. Here in California it re- 
quires good shelter and a fairly good soil, well drained. It must 
have abundant moisture, seldom doing well excepting on the 
border of the lawn or close to a pond or water course. 

There are several varieties, the purple-leaved variety appear- 
ing to be the best adapted to this climate. It is not advisable 
to attempt propagation in this State. 

Fatsia. 



A genus of handsomely leaved plants belonging to the Aralia 
family, a name by which this genus is often known. They like 
a well-sheltered situation protected from strong winds, where, 
if given good soil and plenty of moisture, they form handsome 

[io6] 




Ficiis elastica. 



Trees and Shrubs 



objects, their large palmated shining green leaves creating a fine 
tropical effect. Fatsia papyrifera produces the rice paper used 
in oriental countries for making artificial flowers, 

Fatsia Japonica and its variegated varieties are also very 
useful in tropical gardening, but as they are of slower growth and 
of dwarf habit should be planted near the margins of groups. 

Another variet)^, Fatsia horrida, a native of the State of 
Washington, is of more spreading habit and has large palmated 
leaves three or more feet in width. Its stem is often too weak 
to sustain its large, heavy leaves and should be supported by 
a strong stake until its fourth or fifth year. This variety is 
thickly covered with stout sharp spines. 

Propagate by cuttings of the root, an inch or more in length, 
placed in heat in early Spring, or by suckers growing from the 
base of the crown in Winter or early Spring. 

Ficus {Rubber l^ree). 

The fig family contains many, highly ornamental evergreen 
and deciduous trees. Ficus elastica is a fine tree for the open 
ground and as a pot plant for the decoration of the parlor or 
sitting room, while, as a veranda plant, few are more hardy or 
give better satisfaction, its long leathery smooth shiny green 
leaves and upright stately habit making it a generally favorite 
plant for garden and indoor decoration. It grows well in any 
good garden soil provided it is given a sheltered spot and plenty 
of water. 

Some fine specimens of Ficus are to be seen in Southern 
California and also in San Francisco, Oakland, San Rafael, and 
San Mateo, a number of these being over forty feet high and 
generally enjoying vigorous health. 

Propagate, in the early Spring, "by cuttings taken from plants 
grown under glass; insert them in sandy soil in strong moist 
heat. If the cuttings are taken from the open ground, place them 

[ 109 ] 



Gardening in California 



in a cold frame until they callous ; they should then be taken from 
the cold frame and put in a house with a temperature of sixty 
degrees Fahrenheit where they will soon root. 

Fraxinus {Ash). 

The Ash is one of our favorite ornamental trees. It has long 
compound leaves and inconspicuous flowers; it loves good deep 
moist soil and a sheltered situation, the bank of a creek being its 




Fraxinus excelsior. 

favorite haunt. The weeping varieties of Fraxinus excelsior 
make very handsome specimens for the lawn. 

In the Fall, propagate by seeds sown as soon as ripe one- 
quarter of an inch deep in a sandy soil. When the young plants, 
in the early Spring, are from six to twelve inches high, plant 
them in nursery rows about six inches apart in the rows and with 
two feet between the rows. Replant them in their permanent 
quarters when they are from four to six feet in height. 

[no] 



Trees and Shrubs 



The weeping varieties are propagated by grafting on the 
common Ash in early Spring. To get good specimens they should 
be grafted on strong young saplings at a height of from twelve 
to twenty feet, thus having plenty of height so that the pendulous 
limbs may easily be spread out the required arbor width. 

Gardenia. 

The Gardenia is a genus com- 
prising many species, most of 
which are natives of Asia. All 
are evergreen small shrubs with 
sweet-scented white or yellow 
flowers, the single varieties hav- 
ing funnel-shaped flowers. The 
double-flowering varieties are, 
however, the most desirable, 
some of them being as double 
as a Camellia and bearing flowers 
which are four inches in 
diameter. 

The Gardenias should be 
planted in every garden, however small, as they form compact 
little bushes while their beautiful fragrant white flowers make 
a handsome decoration. The climate of Oakland and of the 
South as far as San Diego suits them admirably. They delight 
in a warm sheltered situation and plenty of water at the roots 
during Summer. Gardenia Fortunea and Gardenia radicans 
major are the varieties best suited to the conditions of California. 
Any good light loam, if well drained, will suffice them for soil 
purposes. 

Propagate by cuttings of half -ripe wood placed in a cold 
frame, in August, in soil composed of half well-decomposed leaf- 
mold and half silver-sand. After putting in the cuttings, the 
frame should, for two weeks, be shaded during sunshine. 

[Ill] 




Gardenia. 



Gardening in California 



Genista. 

A large genus of free-flowering shrubs of compact, bushy 
habit, having flowers pea-shaped and mostly yellow in color, 
growing freely in any garden soil, (preferably light and sandy) 
and requiring no artificial irrigation after the first year. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in Spring, one-quarter of an inch 
deep in the open ground, or in boxes in cold frame; when the 
seedlings are from four to six inches high, prick them out in 
boxes or in the open ground. Plant them in permanent quarters 
when they are from twelve to eighteen inches high; water them 
during the first year after planting. All are worthy a place in 
the pleasure-ground. 

Ginkgo {Maidenhair T'ree). 

The Maidenhair tree is a native of North China and is named 
Maidenhair tree from the form of its leaflets, these being shaped 
like the leaflets of the Adiantum fern. It has an upright open 
habit and has a distinctly handsome appearance in any land- 
scape while it also makes a good street tree. 

There are several handsome varieties including the deeply- 
cut leaved Ginkgo biloba laciniata and a weeping form. Ginkgo 
biloba pendula. 

Propagate by seeds sown, as soon as ripe, one-quarter of an 
inch deep in the open ground. Plant them in permanent site, 
when they are from six to ten feet high, in good deep well-drained 
soil. 

Gleditchia (Honey Locust). 

A handsome spreading tree with pinnate and tripinnate 
leaves on the same plant, deciduous, light-green in color and of 
graceful habit, the branches being crowded (especially on the 
lower limbs) with strong sharp spines. Its seeds are in long 
fleshy pods about two inches in width by fifteen inches in length, 

[112] 



Trees and Shrubs 



each pod containing a dozen seeds. The pulpy portion of the 
pod is sweet when fresh, hence the name "Honey Locust." It 
is a very desirable tree, growing in any ordinary good soil, and 
should make a good street tree, as, on account of its spine- covered 
branches, boys would fight shy of climbirig its trunk. 

There are several species of the genus all worthy of a place 
in the pleasure-ground. The Japanese and its varieties purpurea 
and coccinea, the Chinese, the water locust (Gleditchia aquatica) 
and several other kinds are all very desirable. 

Propagate, by seeds, in January; as the shells of the seeds 
are exceedingly hard, soak them in hot water for a few hours 
before sowing. Plant the seeds about an inch deep in the open 
ground ; leave them in the seed-bed for one year when they should 
be planted in nursery rows. Plant them in permanent quarters 
when they are from six to fifteen feet high. 

Grevillea. 

A genus of elegant trees and shrubs mostly natives of the 
Australian group, many of the species having leaves as beauti- 
fully cut as a fern. According to Eastern and European authori- 
ties they grow only five or six feet high, whereas here in Cali- 
fornia they reach a height of from forty to fifty feet with a 
diameter of stem of over a foot. Grevillea robusta, the most 
commonly grown species, is very ornamental, and when in bloom 
is a striking object in the landscape with its great trusses of 
orange-red flowers set among its fern-like foliage. It grows freely 
in any ordinary good soil and requires very little water. Grevillea 
fasciculata, Grevillea juniperini, Grevillea Thelemanniana, 
Grevillea saligna, the scarlet-blooming Grevillea punicea, and 
the purple-flowering Grevillea vestita should be seen in our gar- 
dens more frequently than they are and well repay any care and 
attention bestowed upon them. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in Spring, one-quarter of an inch 

[113] 



Gardening in California 



deep in sandy soil in a warm greenhouse, or by cuttings planted, 
in September, in a cool frame shaded from strong sunshine ; grow 
them in pots until they are required for planting in the open 
ground. 

Gymnocladus (^Kentucky Cofee 'T'ree). 

A lofty tree, native of the Eastern States from Kentucky to 
Canada, receiving its name from the seeds being used by early 
settlers as a substitute for coffee. 

This tree is a favorite shade tree both in the East and in 
Europe and should thrive better here than it seems to have done 
in many places. It requires a shady sheltered situation and a 
soft moist soil. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-quarter of an inch deep in the 
open ground as soon as ripe in the Fall. 

Hakea. 

A large Australian genus comprising many species with 
needle-like foliage and bottle-brush flowers. A few assume tree 
form but most of them are low-growing shrubs. All are attractive 
when in bloom, but, on account of their hard, needle-like leaves 
and persistent seed vessels, are not very desirable except in large 
collections. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-sixteenth of an inch deep, in 
heat, in early Spring, or by cuttings of the ripe wood placed in a 
cold frame in September and potted as growth requires; keep 
them in pots until required for planting in permanent situations. 

Halesia. 

A genus of pretty shrubs containing half a dozen species, 
natives of the Eastern States and Japan and one from China. 
The Japanese Halesia hespida does especially well, growing 
freely and blooming abundantly, its clusters of pure white 

[114] 



Trees and Shrubs 



snowdrop-like flowers together with its semi-pendulous habit of 
growth making it a good addition to the shrubbery. The Hale- 
sias delight in a light rich sandy soil and a sheltered situation. 

Propagate by layers in the open ground, and also by cuttings 
of the roots placed in a cold frame in September. 

Hydrangea. 

Highly decorative, evergreen and deciduous shrubs. Hydran- 
gea Hortensia, the most easily grown of any of the species, is a 
universal favorite, flowering, as it often does, ten months of the 
year, its handsome foliage and great trusses of pink, white or 
purple sterile flowers giving a fine effect. It does best in a semi- 
shaded situation in light sandy moist soil. If extra large panicles 
of flowers are desired, cut the shoots back to within a foot of the 
ground and thin the remainder of the flower stems to not over 
six; manure them heavily and water them freely; the result will 
be enormously large heads requiring stout stakes to support them. 
It also makes an excellent vase plant for the porch or veranda, 
the shade and shelter of the veranda being a very suitable light 
for its development. 

Hydrangea paniculata is a valuable shrubby species for the 
decorating of the shrubbery, having smaller leaves than the pre- 
ceding and panicles also smaller and of a more pointed shape. 
It requires a sunny warm situation and all the light possible. 

There are many varieties of the Hortensia, notably Dr. Hogg, 
with pure white flowers, and Hortensia Japonica with blue 
flowers. Some have variegated foliage. 

All are easily propagated by ordinary cuttings placed in sandy 
soil in a cool frame in October. 

Hymenosporum flavum. 

This handsome evergreen tree is a native of Australia, has 
smooth glossy bright, light-green leaves and bears masses of 

[115] 



Gardening in California 



tubular-shaped yellow flowers which have a strong sweet odor 
scenting the atmosphere for an area of a hundred yards. It grows 
freely in any good garden soil and should be used extensively in 
planting large grounds. 

Propagation is by cuttings placed in a cold frame, during 
October, in light sandy leaf-mold. It may also be propagated 
by seeds sown in Spring in a frame, the seeds to be covered to the 
depth of a quarter of an inch. 



Hypericum. 




Hypericum. 



A genus of hardy, low- 
growing shrubs generally 
with yellow flowers, mostly 
natives of Southern Europe 
and the United States. All 
are of easy culture, growing 
freely in any good garden 
soil. Hypericum delights 
in a shady nook under the 
shelter of tall shrubs for 
which it makes an excellent 
carpet, 



undergrowth 



or 



thickly covering the surface of the ground with its foliage and 
bright-yellow flowers. There are many fine species, such as 
H. Moserianum, H. Androsianum, H. patulum, etc., well de- 
serving a place in the shrubbery. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame in Autumn; 
shade them for the first few days, and, when they are rooted, 
plant them in nursery rows until wanted. 



Ilex (Holly). 

A genus of one hundred and fifty species, evergreen and de- 
ciduous. It is highly ornamental, its stately habit of growth 

[ii6] 



Trees and Shrubs 



and its bright glossy green, undulate, prickly leaves making it 
one of the most popular of shrubs. When covered with a heavy 
crop of its bright crimson berries, it is exceedingly effective in 
the garden from November to early Spring. 

There are many varieties of the different species which are 
highly ornamental ; some of them, with variegated leaves, should 
be in every collection however small. The Holly stands pruning 
into almost any shape and makes an excellent hedge though of 
slow growth, it taking seven or eight years to grow a holly hedge 
five feet in height, but from its first appearance above ground it 
is pleasing and should be more frequently used for this purpose. 

The Holly delights in a semi-shaded spot in a sheltered place, 
away from harsh winds and strong sunshine, and loves moisture 
at the root during the growing season. 

Ilex opaca, the Southern Holly, ought to be seen more com- 
monly than it is, and should stand our dry Summers much better 
than the European or Japanese species. 

Propagate by seeds sown in the open ground. As soon as the 
seeds are ripe, place them in wet sand for the Winter, and, when 
the fleshy pulp is completely rotted, sow them in drills or beds 
and cover them with one-half inch of light soil ; shade the young 
seedlings with branches for the first year; when the seedlings 
are four inches high, transplant them into nursery rows one 
foot apart; transplant them at least every two years until 
wanted. The variegated varieties can be propagated only by 
grafting. This should be done in early Spring before growth 
commences, using seedlings of the common Holly as a stock. 

Indigofera. 

A genus of leguminous shrubs and herbs with purple, rose 
or white flowers, natives of Australia and the United States and 
at least one species indigenous to California. They grow in 
sandy garden soil. 

[ii7l 



Gardening in California 



To get the best results, prune them back, in February, rather 
severely so as to encourage the forming of young wood, on 
which the finest flowers are produced. Of the many species, aus- 
tralis, decora and tinctoria will be found the best for the Coast. 

Propagate, in Spring, by seeds or cuttings. Cover the seeds 
to the depth of one-sixteenth of an inch. 

loCHROMA. 



A small genus containing about 
fifteen species of tall shrubs with slender 
stems, having opposite entire leaves and 
long tubular-shaped flowers growing in 
pendulous bunches of ten or a dozen. 
Flowering late in the Fall, they make 
a welcome addition to our collection of 
flowering shrubs. The best proven spe- 
cies are lochroma grandiflora from 
Peru, lochroma lanceolata a native of 
Chile and lochroma tubulosa from Cen- 
tral America. They should be grown 
in a sheltered situation and given plenty 
of manure and water. 
Propagate by cuttings in early Fall; shade from direct sun. 




lochroma tubulosa. 



Itea. 

Itea Virginica is the only species of this genus widely grown 
in California. There are at least four other species which would 
make worthy additions to any shrubbery. As most of them flower 
late in the Summer, a season of the year when few shrubs are in 
bloom, they should be seen in our gardens more commonly than 
they are. 

[ii8] 



Trees and Shrubs 



The Iteas thrive best in a moist sheltered situation in light 
sandy loam. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in 
Spring, or by suckers taken, in Winter, from the base of old estab- 
lished plants or by layers in July. 

Jacarandia. 

This beautiful tree, which gives such splendid effects in the 
warmer portions of this State, is a native of Brazil and should, to 
do well, be given generous treatment and a warm situation away 
from strong winds. It grows well in any garden soil which is 
not too stiff and heavy. 

The Jacarandia is propagated by means of cuttings placed 
in a cold frame, during August, in soil composed of one-half sand 
and one-half leaf-mold. The cuttings should be shaded during 
strong sunshine until they form roots, and, when rooted, they 
should be planted in small pots and afterwards given larger pots 
as required. 

JuGLANS. 

The Walnut and Butternut belong to this genus, both being 
noble park trees forming massive straight trunks and wide-spread- 
ing branches, while their handsome, pinnate, glossy leaves add 
much to their attractive appearance. There are several species 
including Juglans regia (the English Walnut), Juglans cinerea 
(Butternut), Juglans nigre (the Eastern Black Walnut), Jug- 
lans Californica and the Japanese species, Juglans Seiboldiana. 
All form grand park trees requiring considerable space for their 
proper growth and development as well as deep well-drained 
soil and sheltered situations. 

Propagate by seeds planted, in Winter or early Spring, one 
inch deep in nursery rows. Transplant the seedlings to their 
permanent quarters when they are not more than two years old. 

[119] 



Gardening in California 



JuNiPERUS {JuJiiper). 



t. . 




jE^^Sj^^^ptie -•■■'LKr 




* .. .■■■""' 




^^-r^m^^ 



Junipcrus Chinensis. 



Ornamental evergreen trees or 
shrubs with needle or scale-like leaves 
set thickly on the stems or branches, 
the flowers being inconspicuous and 
the fruit a small cone-like berry. All 
are perfectly hardy in California, 
being mostly natives of temperate 
climates. The genus contains species 
with low-spreading habit of growth, 
well adapted for covering rocky 
ledges or forming groundwork for 
hiding bare ground under large trees; 
some having a stiff pyramidal habit 
are much used in formal gardening, 
while others make fine single specimens on the lawn or planted 
in groups about large pleasure-grounds. 

The best of the species with bushy habit are Juniperus Chin- 
ensis, Juniperus communis, Juniperus Californica, Juniperus 
Suecica, Juniperus Virginiana, Juniperus Bermudiana, and 
Juniperus Fortunis. There are also many varieties of each of the 
species, a number of which are very attractive. The best of the 
creeping species are Juniperus sabina, Juniperus procumbens and 
their varieties, many of which have variegated leaves. 

Propagate, in October, by cuttings in sandy soil in a cold 
frame; when they are rooted in Spring transplant them about 
two inches apart into boxes and give them the room their growth 
requires. They may also be propagated by seeds sown one six- 
teenth of an inch deep in the open ground in Spring, the seeds 
preferring a shady situation. 



[ I20] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Kerria. 

Slender-branched deciduous twiggy shrubs with bright light- 
green leaves and bright-yellow flowers. Being among our earli- 
est Spring-flowering shrubs they are much in demand and should 
be seen in every garden however small. The double-flowering 
variety has the prettier flowers, but the single-flowered is the 
more elegant in habit and keeps in flower for a much longer 
period than the double-flowering variety. 

Propagate by cuttings in the Fall or by division of the roots 
in early Spring. 

KOELREUTERIA PaNICULATA. 

A small handsome deciduous tree from north China, with a 
spreading, irregular habit of growth. It thrives best in good soil 
and a sheltered situation where its long panicles of yellow blos- 
soms are very attractive. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame in early Fall. 

Laburnum {Golden Chain). 

Ornamental shrubs or small trees with trifoliate leaves and 
pendulous racemes of pea-shaped flowers. They are all highly 
ornamental and free-flowering and grow in any garden soil, but 
in sunny California seem to desire a shady situation. Like many 
deciduous trees they are liable to be attacked by the grey fungus 
which has a tendency to harden and tighten the bark; when 
this is the case, spray them in Winter with lye mixture. 

The following are the best varieties of this very beautiful 
Spring-flowering tree: — Laburnum vulgare, Laburnum vulgare 
aureum (golden-yellow leaves). Laburnum vulgare involutum. 
Laburnum vulgare quercifolium and Laburnum vulgare Water- 
sii. A species with purple flowers named Laburnum Adami, is 
also well worthy of a place in any collection. 

[121] 



Gardening in California 



Propagate by seeds sown one quarter of an inch deep in the 
open ground in early Spring; leave them in the seed-bed one 
year and then transplant them to nursery rows where they should 
remain until large enough to be planted out. 

Lagerstroemeria {Crepe Myrtle). 

A strong-growing free-flowering deciduous shrub producing 
an abundance of soft- fringed flowers during the Summer months. 
The Crepe Myrtle delights in a light rich soil and a warm 
sunny situation, the climate of San Francisco being too cold for 
this most beautiful shrub, so it is not advisable to plant it in 
that neighborhood, but in the interior of the State and in south- 
ern counties it should be in every yard. 

Propagate by cuttings in the early Fall; grow them in pots 
until they are ready to be planted out. 

Lantana. 



A large genus of evergreen 
and deciduous shrubs belonging 
to the Verbena family. Grow- 
ing freely in any garden soil and 
of a rambling habit of growth, 
it is well adapted for forming 
undergrowth for filling in open 
spaces between upright grow- 
ing shrubs or for forming thick- 
ets under deciduous trees. 

It also is very useful as a 
covering for steep banks where 
Lantana. few plants of a shrubby charac- 

ter are successful. It requires very little artificial watering. 
Propagate by cuttings in October. 

[ 122] 




Trees and Shrubs 



Lasiandra (Pleroma). 

The Lasiandra is another of 
the Brazilian introductions 
which has surprised many culti- 
vators by doing so well out of 
doors in our State, In Europe 
and in the Eastern states, it is 
treated as a hothouse plant and 
given temperature strictly tropi- 
cal, but here in California it 
grows well and flowers splen- 
didly, blooming in the open air 
even in San Francisco from De- 
cember until June. It requires 
a sheltered situation and a light 
sandy soil. 

There are many varieties of this beautiful shrub but Lasi- 
andra macrantha will be found the best adapted for growing in 
this State. 

Propagate by cuttings placed, in July or August, in a cold 
frame in soil composed of sand and leaf-mold in equal pro- 
portions. 




Lasiandra macrantha. 



Laurus Camphora {Camphor I'ree). 

This handsome evergreen is a native of Japan and produces 
the camphor of commerce. It has a close pyramidal or oval- 
shaped head with laurel-like leaves, the young leaves having a 
pink tint which gives it a striking appearance in the landscape. 
In the Southern and warmer portions of the State it makes a 
very good sidewalk tree. 

Propagate, in March, by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch 
deep, or by cuttings, also in March, put into cutting-mixture, 
composed of half sand and half leaf-mold; place in a cold 

[ 123] 



Gardening in California 



frame until the cuttings are calloused and give gentle bottom 
heat until rooted. 



Laurus Nobilis. 

The Laurus nobilis is a handsome evergreen hardy tree, a 
native of Southern Europe. It has dark-green, oblong, pointed 
leaves, is of an upright habit and grows to the height of about 
forty feet. 

Propagate by cuttings inserted in sand in a cold frame, in 
October. 



Leptospermum. 

This handsome member of 
the Myrtle family is one of our 
most popular shrubs, growing 
vigorously in the poorest sand 
and in the most exposed situa- 
tion. It also is one of the best 
shrubs for seaside planting. It 
is of a semi-pendulous graceful 
habit, and, when covered with 
its long sprays of marble-white 
flowers, makes a grand effect in 
the landscape. Leptospermum 
laveagatum is the best of the 
species. 
Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in 
Spring; prick them oif about three inches apart in boxes, and 
plant them out in their permanent quarters when they are a foot 
high. 




Leptospermum. 



[124] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Leucadendron {Silver l^ree). 

This is the celebrated Silver Tree of South Africa. In the 
Cape of Good Hope it grows to a height of about thirty feet. 
It gets its name from its leaves which are of a soft silvery-white 
color and densely covered with white silky hairs. It does well 
in light loam and must have a warm sheltered situation where it 
becomes, when in health, a very striking object. Leucadendron 
argentium, the best of the species, should be more commonly 
seen as it forms a handsome tree. 

Propagate by seeds secured from South Africa; plant them 
one quarter of an inch deep as soon as received from their native 
locality; start them in a warm greenhouse and be very careful 
not to overwater them. 



LiBOCEDRus (^Incense Cedar). 

A genus comprising eight spe- 
cies; two are natives of New Zea- 
land, one of California, two of 
Chile, one of Japan, one of China, 
and one of New Caledonia. Our 
native species, Libocedrus decur- 
rens is of a densely-branched habit 
of growth and rather formal in 
outline. Libocedrus Chilensis is 
of the same habit but has leaves 
of a light glaucous green. Libo- 
cedrus Dombiana, the New Zea- 
land species, is also rather stiff and 
formal in habit but differs from 

the Chilean species in having bright-green leaves. All are of 
easy growth and thrive in our climate if given shelter and well- 
drained soil. 

[ 127 ] 




Libocedrus decurrens. 



Gardening in California 



Propagate by seeds sown in Spring, one-quarter of an inch 
deep in light sandy soil; protect them from hot sun until they 
are one inch high when they may be planted in nursery beds out 
of doors. 



LiGUSTRUM (Privet). 

This genus contains about 
twenty-five species of orna- 
mental, hardy, deciduous or 
evergreen shrubs or small trees 
indigenous to Europe, temper- 
ate Asia and Australia. They 
are easily cultivated, will grow 
in any good garden soil and 
make excellent subjects for 
grouping in the pleasure-garden. 
They flower freely and remain 
in bloom for several months. 
The Japanese species Ligu- 
strum ibota, Ligustrum Japoni- 

cum, Ligustrum lucidum and Ligustrum ovalifolium, are among 

the best and should be used freely in planting large grounds. 

Ligustrum ovalifolium and Ligustrum Japonicum make good 

hedge plants. 

Propagate by cuttings in the Fall, or by seeds sown in open 

ground in Spring. Cover the seeds to the depth of one-eighth 

of an inch. 




Ligustrum Japonicum. 



LiguiDAMBAR (Sweet Gum). 

A small genus of about four species of which the North 
American species Liquidambar styraciflua is the best. It has a 
maple-like leaf, grows to the height of about sixty feet, and, 
when late in the Fall it has taken on its Autumn tints, it has a 

[128] 



Trees and Shrub 



very striking appearance. Its cork-like, barked branches give it 
a picturesque and interesting character, suitable for informal 
planting. Plant in low sheltered situations in soft moist soil 
and give plenty of water during the growing season. 

Propagate by seeds sown in Spring in open ground, covered 
to the depth of one-quarter of an inch. 

LiRiODENDRON {l^uUp l^ree). 

The Tulip tree, one of the most desirable of deciduous trees, 
is of pyramidal habit with fiddle-shaped leaves and tulip-shaped 
flowers. It makes a handsome avenue tree, being clean of stem 
and of smooth foliage, turning bright-yellow in the Fall. It 
must have rich bottom land and a sheltered situation to do well. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in the Fall or as soon as ripe, in the 
open ground. Cover the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of 
an inch. 

Lyonothamnus, 

A handsome evergreen tree found only in the islands of 
Santa Barbara channel. In Santa Cruz Island it grows to the 
height of sixty feet. This tree should make an excellent addi- 
tion to our coast collection, and, as it is a rapid grower of good 
habit and has a bright grass-green leaf, should be planted 
extensively. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in sand in cool frame in 
October. 



[129 



Gardening in California 



Magnolia. 





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Magnolia stellata. 



A highly ornamental 
genus of about twenty 
species of evergreen or de- 
ciduous trees and shrubs. 
The evergreen Magnolia 
grandiflora with its mas- 
sive leaves and large white 
fragrant flowers is well 
adapted for planting either 
as single specimens on the 
lawn or in large or small 
groups. The deciduous 
species, Magnolia acuminata, is a vigorous-growing lofty tree 
with spreading branches. Magnolia tripetala is another strong 
vigorous grower which should be seen more often. Besides those 
of tree form, many species are low-growing, shrubby and very flor- 
iferous, some of them blooming in early Spring before they unfold 
their leaves. These include Magnolia conspicua and its varieties 
Magnolia soulangiana, Magnolia obovata. Magnolia parviflora 
and Magnolia stellata. The banana odor of the flower of Magno- 
lia muscata is so powerful that one or two flowers will perfume a 
whole house. Magnolias delight in a warm, sheltered situation, 
a rich sedimentary loam soil and plenty of water during the 
growing season. If given these conditions they will well repay 
any care bestowed on them. 

Propagate, about September, by layers or by sowing the 
seeds, as soon as ripe, one-quarter of an inch deep in pots of 
sandy leaf-mold under glass. When the young seedlings are 
three inches high, pot them singly in three-inch pots and shade 
them for a few days after which they may be given air and full 
light. 



[ 130 




Melaleuca leucadendron. 



Trees and Shrubs 



Maytenus. 

A genus of evergreen trees or shrubs mostly natives of Chile, 
of an upright habit of growth, with myrtle-like leaves, forming 
very elegant and graceful shrubs with small white, yellow or red 
flowers. Maytenus boaria (with white flowers) and Maytenus 
Chilensis (bearing greenish-yellow flowers) are the most desir- 
able species. 

They thrive in any garden soil and in any situation, being 
particularly adapted for growing in the Southern part of Cali- 
fornia, while they also do well in San Francisco and neigh- 
borhood. 

Propagate by cuttings in early Fall. 

Melaleuca, 



A genus comprising about 
one hundred species of mostly 
evergreen shrubs or trees, na- 
tives of Australia. All have 
black stems and white-barked 
branches. They are all highly 
ornamental and graceful in 
habit, thrive in poor soil and 
require only a moderate supply 
of water, — indeed, if well-cul- 
tivated requiring no artificial 
irrigation whatever. 

Melaleuca dicussata, Mela- 
leuca fulgens and Melaleuca 

leucadendron will be found among the best species for general 
cultivation. 

Propagate by cuttings of half-ripe wood in Summer or by 
seeds sown in March or April. Cover the seeds lightly. 

[ 133] 




Melaleuca leucadendron. 



Gardening in California 



Melia Azedarach {Umbrella T'ree). 

The Umbrella tree is one of the most popular shade trees in 
California, being a rapid grower and of easy propagation, grow- 
ing freely from seed. Its bright-green foliage, which it carries 
until late in the season, together with its long sprays of fragrant 
lilac-colored blossoms make it a general favorite through the 
warmer districts of the State, where it does exceedingly well ex- 




Mcspilus Japonica. 

cepting very close to the coast. There the fresh sea-wind whips 
the long pinnate leaves from the exposed side, destroying its 
symmetry and formal habit. 

Propagate by seeds sown, one-quarter of an inch deep, in the 
Fall ; leave them one year in seed-bed and then transplant them 
into nursery rows where they should be allowed to remain until 
they are large enough to be planted in permanent quarters. 

[134] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Mespilus {Medlar). 

The Medlar, although considered more a fruit than an orna- 
mental tree, is nevertheless frequently grown as the latter. This 
is especially so in the case of the Japanese species which has 
large handsome leaves and forms a very fine shade tree. Any 
good garden soil is suitable for growing the Medlar. 

Propagation of this tree is by means of seeds which should 
be sown during Spring in a cold frame. The seeds should be 
covered to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 

Metrocederos. 



A genus of about eighteen 
species natives of the Pacific 
Islands, New Zealand and New 
South Wales, mostly shrubby in 
habit, having narrow pointed 
leaves and showy flowers, growing 
well in any garden soil and re- 
quiring no artificial watering 
where the ground is well culti- 
vated and kept clear of weeds. 

Propagate by cuttings in early 
Fall or by seeds sown, in Spring, 
one-quarter of an inch deep in a 
cold frame. When the seedlings 
are one inch high, transplant them two inches apart in boxes. 




Metrocederos robusta. 



Melianthus major. 

The Melianthus is a shrub especially effective in large 
grounds where fine subtropical effects are desired, as its graceful 
habit and large glaucous leaves make it very desirable for this 
purpose. 

[135] 



Gardening in California 



This shrub is propagated by cuttings which should be placed 
in a cold frame, during September or October, in soil composed 
of sand and leaf-mold in equal proportions. 

MoRus Nigra {Mulberry). 

The Mulberry is cultivated chiefly for feeding the silkworm. 
It grows to the height of from twenty to sixty feet, having large 
heart-shaped leaves and spreading habit; it should be given 
fairly good soil and a sheltered situation. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in open ground late in the Fall 
after the leaves have dropped, or by seeds sown in Spring. Cover 
the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of an inch. The following 
Spring transplant them one foot from each other into nursery 
rows two feet apart. 

Myrica. 

This genus contains only a few species, one indigenous to 
California, one to Europe, two to Japan and one to Canada. It 
grows to a height of sometimes forty feet, is bush-like in habit, 
has a willow-like bright-green leaf and bears a purple or 
red fruit. It delights in a light sandy soil in a sheltered situ- 
ation with plenty of moisture, preferably the margin of a lake 
or swamp. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in 
Spring, or by cuttings placed in the open ground in October. 

Myrtus {Myrtle). 

The Myrtle is an extensive genus comprising over one hun- 
dred species, mostly natives of Australia, South America and 
Southern Europe. The common species (Myrtus communis) is 
one of our most popular and best known shrubs, its fragrant 
leaves and pretty white flowers making it a general favorite. 

[136] 



Trees and Shrubs 



There are many handsome species, including Myrtus bullata, 
(which grows from ten to twenty feet high) and Myrtus 
apiculata. 

It is of easy culture and grows well in any soil not too heavy, 
being readily propagated by cuttings placed in sandy leaf-mold 
in a cold frame in early Fall, or by seeds sown, in Spring, one 
eighth of an inch deep in a cold frame. 

Nandina. 



This genus contains but a 
single species, the elegant Nan- 
dina domestica. It is of upright 
habit with compound leaves 
which in the young state are beau- 
tifully tinted with pink; the 
fruit is oval in shape and about 
the size of a large pea. It is good 
for small grouping. 

Propagate by division of the 
roots in early Spring and by seeds 
sown in Spring one-quarter of an 
inch deep in a cold frame. 







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Nandina domestica. 



Nerium {Oleander^. 

A small genus of very ornamental evergreen flowering shrubs 
of erect habit, natives of the Mediterranean regions. In the 
warmer districts of the State the Oleander is a general favorite 
on account of its easy culture and its generous long-continued 
supply of gaily-colored flowers. Close to the coast, although 
the Oleander grows to wood well enough, it does not flower 
freely, therefore it is not recommended as a coast shrub or for 
planting in San Francisco except against a wall facing the South. 

[137] 



Gardening in California 



Propagate by cuttings of ripe wood placed, about April, in 
sandy leaf-mold in a warm propagating house; as soon as they 
are rooted, pot them singly in three-inch pots and give them room 
as required. 

Olearia. 

A large genus mostly Australian. Some of them make beau- 
tiful bushes and should be more often seen. They succeed in 
any good soil and require little water if given thorough culti- 
vation. The best flowering kinds are Olearia Fosterii, Olearia 
Gunnii, and Olearia Haastii. 

Propagate by cuttings of half-ripe wood inserted, in October, 
in sandy leaf-mold, placed in a cold frame, and kept close 
and shaded from hot sunshine for two weeks. 

Olea Europea {Olive). 

What the Elm or the Oak is to Northern Europe, what the 
Conifers are to the Mountains of California, the Olive is to Italy, 
where it is grown both for its oil and as an ornamental tree. As 
a feature of the landscape it is very effective, its grey-green foli- 
age and its soft willow-like habit fitting it well for grouping if 
allowed to grow naturally and not subjected to the pruning- 
knife. 

It grows in any soil, even on a rocky hillside where it pro- 
duces fine effects without irrigation. 

Propagate, in Spring, by cuttings of either young or old wood, 
or by seeds sown one-half inch deep in the open ground; keep 
them in the nursery until well established. 



[138 



Trees and Shrubs 



OSMANTHUS. 

So named on account of the fragrance of its flowers. There 
are several species (one American), the Japanese being the most 
desirable. 

Osmanthus aquifolium has handsome holly-like leaves, is 
evergreen and of good habit, bearing white flowers. Osmanthus 
fragrans has entire, elliptic-shaped leaves and bears yellow 
flowers. 

Propagate by cuttings set in a cold frame in the early Fall. 
The Osmanthus is not particular as to soil, but prefers a warm 
situation and partial shade from noonday sun. 

Parkinsonia. 

This beautiful Mexican shrub, with its feathery drooping 
branches and yellow flowers, is becoming a general favorite in 
all of our gardens where a collection of fine shrubs is aimed at. 

Propagate by seeds sown as soon as ripe, in a warm green- 
house or frame; cover the seeds with a quarter of an inch of 
soil. The seedlings should be transplanted to the open ground 
when they are six inches in height. 

Paulownia. 

Ornamental deciduous trees with catalpa-like leaves and fox- 
glove-like flowers, well adapted, when young, to give semi- 
tropical broad-leaved effects, and, in well-sheltered situations and 
good soil, making a good street tree. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in Spring, one-quarter of an inch 
deep in the open ground in light rich soil. 



[ 139 



Gardening in Californi 



Philadelphus {Mock Orange). 

Ornamental deciduous shrubs, with 
opposite leaves and white flowers in ter- 
minal racemes on short branches ap- 
pearing in May and on until July. 
They are well adapted for shrubby un- 
dergrowth, liking partial shade. When 
exposed to the full sun, the flowers are 
smaller and lack the delicate tinting of 
those grown in half shade. Any fair 
garden soil will suit them as they are 
of easy culture. Prune the bushes as 
soon as the flowers fade, to encourage 
the making of strong young shoots to 
take the place of those cut, as it is on 
the previous year's wood that they flower. 

There are several species worthy of a place, including Phila- 
delphus coronarius, Philadelphus Gordonianum, Philadelphus 
grandiflora and others of which some varieties have double 
flowers and some variegated foliage. 

Propagate by cuttings of ripe wood placed in sandy soil in 
the open ground in November or as soon as the leaves fall. 

Phillyrea. 




Philadelphus. 



A genus comprising only four species, all evergreen and orna- 
mental, natives of the Mediterranean regions. They have a 
rather upright habit and small, myrtle-like, glossy, dark-green 
leaves. The flowers are small and not showy. They grow 
freely in any good garden soil to a height of ten feet and form 
a dense bush. 

Propagate by cuttings, in the Fall, placed in sandy soil in a 
cold frame. 

[ 140] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Photinia {California Redberry or Holly). 

A genus of highly ornamental trees or shrubs mostly natives 
of India, China and Japan, one being indigenous to California. 
All are handsomely leaved. Our native species is the glory of 
our hillsides in Fall and Winter, and indispensable for decorating 
our rooms and banquet halls at Christmastide, its great bunches 
of crimson-red berries contrasting well with its glossy green 
foliage. The Redberry delights in a sunny situation and a loose 
rocky soil. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in open 
ground in the Fall; transplant them when they are three inches 
high and replant them each year until they are large enough 
to be planted where required, as it is rather difficult to move 
them safely when they are left too long in one place. 

PiCEA. 

The Pitch Firs are classed among the most ornamental of the 
Conifer family, all of the species being highly prized for their 
beautiful form and tall pyramidal stately outline, making, when 
in health, splendid specimens for decorating the lawn either 
singly or in group form. 

In addition to our native species, the Eastern and Japanese 
species and even the Himalayan and Norwegian thrive in 
California, growing well in any garden soil which is properly 
drained. 

Propagate by seeds sown in Spring, one-quarter of an inch 
deep, in a shady spot ; transplant the following year. 



[141] 



Gardening in California 




Pimelia rosea. 



PiMELIA. 

The Pimelias are among our most 
showy late-Winter and early-Spring 
flowering shrubs, mostly natives of 
Australia and New Zealand. They 
have a neat compact habit of growth, 
being easily grown and easily propa- 
gated, while any fairly good soil will 
suit them. They make excellent plants 
for the margins of groups of taller- 
growing shrubs, or in small groups by 
themselves or singly in borders. There 
are about seventy species, only a few 
of which have been introduced into 
California. 
Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy leaf-mold, in a cold 

frame in September or October; shade during hot sunshine; 

pot them singly in small pots when they are rooted. 

PiNus (I'Jie Pine). 

This highly ornamental as well as most useful genus com- 
prises about seventy species indigenous to most of the North 
Temperate Zone and contains many exceedingly ornamental and 
picturesque trees for landscape improvement. Pinus insignis 
(the Monterey Pine) by many authorities is considered to be the 
most ornamental of all the species either native or foreign. An- 
other native, Pinus Lambertiana (Sugar Pine) is without doubt 
the most gigantic of all. The Pine is not particular as to soil 
provided it is well drained, although there are some, such as 
Pinus Murrayana and Pinus rigida, which prefer a wet or 
swampy situation. 

California is very rich in varieties of this genus, no less than 
sixteen species being indigenous to this coast. 

[ 142] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Among the most desirable foreign species may be included 
Pinus cembra, Pinus halepensis and Pinus pinea (the Italian 
Stone Pine) perhaps the most picturesque species of the genus. 
This Pine prefers a sandy soil and a seaside sheltered situation. 




A Group of Pines. 



Propagate by seeds sown, in March or April, from one-quarter 
to one-half an inch deep (according to the size of the seeds) in a 
cold frame. When the young seedlings are two or three inches 
high, they should be placed in nursery rows in the open ground, 
and, when from twelve to eighteen inches high, should be 
planted out in their permanent quarters in Winter. 

[143] 



Gardening in California 



PiTTOSPORUM. 



The Pittosporums form a 
large genus of over one hundred 
species, all evergreen and 
mostly natives of the Australian 
group. All the introduced spe- 
cies are of the easiest culture 
and not particular as to soil. 
They make grand single speci- 
mens on the lawn, besides being 
very effective in grouping, and 
also make excellent ornamental 
hedge plants. 

The species best adapted to 
California are Pittosporum cras- 
sifolium, Pittosporum eugenoides, Pittosporum nigricans, Pitto- 
sporum tobira and Pittosporum undulatum. 

Propagate by seeds sown in March one-quarter of an inch 
deep, in a cold frame, or by cuttings placed in sandy leaf-mold 
in a cold frame in September. 




Pittosponim undulatum. 



Platanus (Plane 'tree; Sycamore). 

This genus contains only three species, all being magnificent 
trees for parks and large grounds. To grow well, they should 
have a deep, soft, moist soil and a well-sheltered site, preferably 
a river bottom where their roots may easily reach perennial 
waters. 

Propagate by seeds; the seeds are contained in round balls 
which must be broken to free the seeds. Sow in February, one- 
eighth of an inch deep in a shady place, and keep them well 
watered until they germinate; transplant them to nursery rows 
when they are one year old. 

[144] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Plumbago. 

A genus comprising about ten species of hardy shrubs or 
annual herbs, natives of the Cape of Good Hope, the East Indies 
and Southern Europe. 

Plumbago capensis, (the pale-blue variety) is the most popu- 
lar of the species, being admirably adapted for training on trel- 
lises or pillars as is also Plumbago Zealanica (the white-flower- 
ing variety). The latter does well as a garden shrub. Whether 
grown as a shrub or for the purpose of covering walls or trellises, 
it should be cut back hard after the flowering season is over in the 
late Fall. 

Propagate by suckers, which should be taken off in the early 
Spring and placed in nursery rows, or by cuttings placed in a 
cold frame in light sandy leaf -mold in September. 

PoiNCiANA (Peacock-flower^. 

A genus of very pretty flowering trees or shrubs, natives 
of the West Indies and Eastern North Africa. They must have 
a warm sunny situation where they form grand effects in 
Summer and Autumn. 

Poinciana pulcherrima (the East Indian species) grows to 
the height of about twelve feet and bears great masses of orange- 
yellow flowers. 

Poinciana regia (from Madagascar) is the largest of the 
genus, reaching, under favorable conditions, the height of from 
thirty to forty feet and having a trunk three feet in diameter. 
With its beautiful bipinnate leaves two feet in length it is very 
effective in the garden or grounds, especially when it is covered 
with its gorgeous masses of bright scarlet and yellow flowers. 

Propagate by cuttings in the Fall (protect them with 
glass frame during the first Winter), or by seeds sown, in early 
Spring, in a cold frame; cover the seeds to the depth of 
one-quarter of an inch. 

[ 145 ] 



Gardening in California 



POLYGALA. 



The Polygala is an exten- 
sive genus comprising over two 
hundred species, only a few of 
which are worthy of cultivation, 
Polygala Dalmaisiana (the com- 
mon species) being the best of 
the genus. 

It loves a cool climate near 
the coast away from frost, al- 
though it will stand a few de- 
grees without injury. The Poly- 
gala, like the European Whin, 
Polygala Dalmaisiana. seems to flower every month in 

the year and has a neat dwarf bushy habit. 

Propagate, in October, by cuttings placed in a cold frame 
in sand and leaf-mold; when rooted, pot them off singly in 
thumb-pots, shading the newly potted plants until they get over 
the change. 




PopuLUS (Poplar). 



A well known genus of deciduous trees natives of Europe, 
Asia and America. The genus contains about eighteen species, 
many of which, when given congenial soil, are among the most 
rapid growers of the forest. They thrive best in a deep damp 
soil, where the underground water is near the surface, or along 
the banks of creeks or watercourses. 

The favorite species are the Carolina, the Lombardy, the 
Aspen and the Silver-leaved. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in the open ground in 
November. 

[146] 



Trees and Shrubs 




Prunus sinoisis. 



Prunus (Flum). 

The Plum is one of our earliest 
flowering trees, often opening its 
showers of pink and white blossoms 
early in January. It forms a most 
handsome tree and should be seen in 
the landscape much more commonly 
than it is, growing freely in any fairly 
good soil and requiring no irrigation if 
the soil is kept loose and free from 
weeds. 

The first to bloom is the Prunus 
pissardii (a native of Persia) having 
white flowers tinted with pink, while, a 
little later, its reddish-purple leaves and, 

in the Fall, its handsome light-red fruit make it a very desirable 
small tree. It grows to the height of about thirty feet. 

Prunus mume, the famous flowering Plum of Japan, with 
its showers of bright pink blossoms makes a handsome feature in 
the landscape. Groups of this beautiful, hardy, free-flowering 
tree are most effective when grown with a background of dark- 
foliaged fir, spruce or yew, or flanked with a belt of Japanese 
Retinospora retusa. 

There are many other species which are very desirable for 
decorating the shrubbery, such as the double-flowering Prunus 
sinensis flora pleno, with pink or white flowers, and Prunus tri- 
loba, also a double-flowering species of shrubby habit. 

Propagate by cuttings inserted in the open ground in No- 
vember, or by seeds planted about one inch deep and three inches 
apart, in Spring. 



[147] 



Gardening in Californi 



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PuNiCA Granatum {Pomegranate^. 

The Pomegranate is a small 
deciduous tree, native of Persia, 
with bright scarlet and orange- 
colored flowers and ornamental 
subacid-flavored fruit. It forms a 
very pretty low tree or shrub 
when in flower in early Summer 
and again when in fruit in the 
Fall. The double-flowered va- 
riety makes an excellent bush or 
hedge. 

Any good garden soil suits it 
Punka granatum. as it is easily grown if given good 

cultivation. 
Propagate by cuttings, layers or suckers in Autumn after the 
leaves fall. 

Pyrus {Apple). 

The color effects produced by 
masses of apple-blossoms are among the 
finest of any flowering tree, especially 
in the case of the double and semi- 
double-flowering varieties. Fruit trees 
which have beautiful flowers should be 
planted in group form for their land- 
scape effects much more commonly 
than they are. The Bellfleur Apple, 
planted, say six in a group, with a back- 
ground of dark foliage, gives, when 
in flower, one of the most pleasing 
effects possible, and besides, if given 
good cultivation, furnishes just as fine 
fruit as if planted in orchard form. 

[148] 




Pyrus iJoribuuda. 



Trees and Shrub 



Pyrus floribunda, Pyrus Japonica, Pyrus malus, and its 
varieties, Pyrus Americana, and Pyrus acuparia (the Mountain 
Ash) are all valuable in landscape work. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-quarter of an inch deep in 
Spring; transplant, the following Spring, into nursery rows 
one foot apart in the row, the rows being two feet apart from 
each other. 

QuERCus {Oak). 

The Oaks belong to all countries which enjoy a temperate 
climate, and every country owning them is proud of its Oaks 
with their immense trunks, their picturesque character and great 
spread of limbs. For landscape effects on a large scale the Oak 
tree is indispensable, its rugged stem and twisted branches fur- 
nishing an element of character not to be found in any other 
genus. 

All of the family are worthy of a place in any collection, 
but our natives should be preferred, as they give the same general 
effects as the Eastern and the European species; besides we 
know that our native species are sure to be long-lived, as they 
are comparatively free from disease and immune from the at- 
tacks of injurious insects. Many Oak trees which are long-lived 
in their native countries have proved to be short-lived when 
transplanted to a foreign country. The English Oak, for in- 
stance, which in Europe lives, under favorable conditions, to the 
great age of from fifteen hundred to eighteen hundred years, is 
said to show signs of decay when it reaches the age of from 
fifty to seventy years in the Eastern States. Native trees, there- 
fore, should at all times be given the preference when the in- 
digenous species give the effects desired. 

The White Oak delights in a deep rich heavy loam resting 
on a clay subsoil, the Live Oak in a rich loam on a gravel sub- 
soil. Stagnant water about the roots of a Live Oak will cause the 
tree to become sickly and to fail to grow satisfactorily. Our 

[149] 



Gardening in Californi 



native Black Oak, one of our most desirable species, loves a rich 
pocket of soil on a sheltered hillside. In such a situation it is one 
of the most attractive and noble of all the Oak family. 

California is justly proud of its Oaks, and it is hoped that 
owners of fine specimens, of whatever kind or species, will spare 




Qucrcus suber. 

them as long as possible, remembering that it takes at least a 
hundred years to grow them and that many of our grand speci- 
men Oaks were large trees when Drake and Balboa first visited 
the Coast. 

Among the most desirable non-indigenous species are the 
English Oak (Ouercus robur), the Turkey Oak (Ouercus cerris), 
the Cork Oak (Ouercus suber), the Pin Oak (Ouercus palustris), 
the Willow Oak (Ouercus phillos) and the Southern Evergreen 
Oak (Quercus Virginiana) while all the others are well worthy 
of prominent places in large pleasure-grounds, public or private. 

[150] 



Trees and Shrub 



Propagate by seeds planted one inch deep as soon as ripe; 
transplant them when one year old, into nursery rows, and again 
transplant them at least every two years until they are large 
enough to be planted in their permanent quarters. 

Rhamnus {Buckthorn — Wild Coffee). 

This handsome evergreen or deciduous shrub is one of 
those most suitable for being planted in the portion of the 
grounds farthest distant from the water hydrant as it requires 
little attention after the first year. It grows in any soil, forms 
a dense mass of foliage, and, for planting as a shelter belt or 
screen, is equaled by few shrubs. 

For general planting purposes, Rhamnus Californicus, our 
native wild coffee, will be found one of the most satisfactory. 

Propagate by seeds planted either in the open border or 
wherever the shrub is desired, covering the seeds to the depth of 
half an inch. 



Rhododendron. 

The Rhododendron is justly 
classed among the noblest of 
shrubs, its laurel-like foliage, its 
massive habit and gorgeous 
trusses of flowers making it, 
when well grown, one of our fa- 
vorite evergreens. 

The Rhododendron prefers 
a shady situation and a moist at- 
mosphere; it also likes a light 
sandy soil and plenty of water 
at the roots but abhors lime and 
alkali either in the soil or in the 
water. 

[151] 




Rhododcndroi 



Gardening in Californi 



Rhododendron Catabiense and its varieties seem to do better 
than any other species in California, although some of the 
Himalayan species, where well protected, make good growth 
and flower freely, in some instances making three feet growth 
in a single season. 

Rhododendron Californicum makes a splendid specimen and 
should be seen more often. Rhododendron ponticum and its 
varieties are doing excellently where the conditions are favorable, 
as are also the many hybrids now being introduced. 

The Rhododendron must be kept away from cold draughty 
situations and must have shade in the Summer season with 
plenty of water at the roots, — but no stagnant water. 

Propagate by seeds sown in Spring. As the seeds are very 
minute they should be sown in pots or pans which should first 
be thoroughl)^ well drained and filled with sandy peat; press the 
soil firm and smooth; soak thoroughly with water and, after 
sowing, press in the seeds and cover them lightly with silver-sand; 
place the pans in gentle heat and shade until the young seedlings 
appear when they should be given more air and light; when 
they are large enough to be handled, prick them off into pots 
and replace them in the same temperature until they take fresh 
root when they should be placed in a cold frame and given room 
as required. 

Propagation may also be effected by planting cuttings of the 
young wood, in August or September, in soil composed of half 
silver-sand and half leaf-mold in a shaded cold frame or under 
a tree sheltered from cold winds. 

RoBiNiA {Locust). 

The Locust is one of the most desirable of the deciduous trees. 
It has handsome pinnate leaves and bears its flowers in long ra- 
cemes of white, rose or purple blossoms. Any good garden soil 
is suitable for its growth. 

[152] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Propagate by seeds sown in the open ground during early 
Spring; cover the seeds one-half inch deep. In the following 
Spring the seedlings should be transplanted into nursery rows. 



RoMNEYA CouLTERii {MatUija Poppy). 

The Romneya is beyond 
doubt the finest of all wild 
flowers, none of the newly in- 
troduced varieties of the Poppy 
family being equal to this won- 
derful native flowering shrub. 
Every garden, unless extremely 
small, should have its plant of 
Matilija Poppy. 

The Romneya Coulterii 
thrives in any soil (provided 
it is well drained) and re- 
quires no artificial irrigation, but 
it must have a sheltered, sunny 
exposure in order to perfect its large and beautiful Peony-like 
white flowers. 

This Poppy is propagated by seeds sown in a warm frame 
during early Spring, sandy leaf-mold being used and the seeds 
being covered to the depth of a quarter of an inch. It may also 
be propagated at the same season by division of the roots. 




Romneya Coulterii. 



Salix {Willow). 



This genus contains over one hundred and fifty species, in- 
digenous from the farthest North of the Alaskan timber-line to 
Mexico and from Norway to the Levant. The Willow loves a 
sheltered valley and a moist soil by the side of a stream where 
its bunches of rootlets may be seen floating on the water. 

[153] 



Gardening in California 



Salix alba (the White Willow) and its variety vitellina 
(the Golden Willow) and Salix Babylonica (the Babylonian 
Weeping Willow) are among the best for ornamental planting. 

Propagate, in November, December or January, by placing 
a cutting, of any size or length, one-third of its length in any 
soil; give it plenty of water. 

Sambucus {Elder). 

A genus of low trees or shrubs comprising about twelve spe- 
cies, all hardy, which will grow in any soil or situation, even the 
most exposed. 

Our native species, Sambucus glauca, grows to the height of 
about twenty feet and is common throughout the State. It is 
not recommended as an ornamental tree or shrub for large plant- 
ing in ornamental grounds but rather as a shelter shrub in ex- 
posed situations and in poor soil. Sambucus racemosa is very 
similar in habit to Sambucus glauca, only the berries, instead of 
being black, are bright scarlet and are much more effective in the 
landscape on that account. 

Sambucus aurea, a golden-leaved variety, is a fine ornamental 
plant, and, when planted in masses in the shrubbery, is very 
effective. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in the open ground late in 
October. 

ScHiNus MoLLE (Pepper '^ree). 

The Pepper tree is a universal favorite and is worthy of a 
place in every garden, its graceful semipendulous habit of growth 
with its pleasing rounded outline and the olive-green color of its 
compound leaves contrasting well with most of the other trees 
and shrubs. 

Schinus molle, a native of Peru, is much the most handsome 
species of the genus and is the only species recommended for 

[154] 



Trees and Shrubs 



general planting. The Pepper grows well in any ordinary gar- 
den soil with very little cultivation and is highly recommended 
for planting in the vicinity of chicken yards and outhouses. 

Propagate by seeds sown, one-eighth of an inch deep, in a 
cold frame in early Spring; pot off the seedlings singly in three- 
inch pots when they are three inches high, and give them room 
as required. 

Sequoia {Redwood). 



t 


>^" ' 




■ J 













The giant Redwood of Cali- 
fornia has a world-wide reputa- 
tion and is one of the wonders of 
the State, being without doubt 
the largest of the great family of 
Conifers. As a landscape tree 
it is possibly a little formal in 
habit, but, when a stately 
conical massive group of form- 
ally shaped trees is required, no 
tree is more effective, young 
specimens, from fifty to one hun- 
dred years of age and of the 
same number or more feet in 
height, forming magnificent groups in any landscape. 

The Sequoia gigantea loves the mountains and is found 
growing only in sheltered valleys over four thousand feet above 
the sea level, in deep soil within close proximity to the snow-line, 
and also where perennial water is percolating within a few feet 
of the surface of the soil. 

Sequoia sempervirens, on the contrary, prefers a low altitude 
near the coast but otherwise requires the same conditions of 
deep soil, reasonable shelter and water close to the surface. 
Although seldom found growing more than thirty miles away 

[155] 



Sequoia gigantea. 



Gardening in Californi 



from the coast, it is rarely found nearer the coast than from 
three to four miles, the harsh winds blowing in from the ocean 
seeming to blast off the leaves and stunt the growth of any which 
sprout within close range of the ocean, unless they are given 
shelter. 

Propagate, in Spring, by seeds sown one-quarter of an inch 
deep in boxes placed in a cold frame; prick off the seedlings as 
soon as they are large enough to be handled and plant them in 
nursery rows in the open ground until they are from twelve to 
eighteen inches high when they should be planted in their per- 
manent situations. 

SOPHORA. 

A genus of hardy deciduous or evergreen trees or shrubs 
mostly natives of China, India and Japan, one being a native of 
New Mexico and another indigenous to Chile. They thrive well 
in any good well-drained loamy soil not too stiff. 

Sophora Japonica, the Japanese Pagoda Tree, is the most 
handsome of the genus, having a graceful form and pleasing 
outline. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-quarter of an inch deep in the 
open ground in Spring. The weeping and variegated forms are 
increased by grafting, in Winter, on the common stock at the 
height of stem desired. 

Plant in a rather low, well-sheltered situation and give plenty 
of water at the roots during the growing season. 

SoRBUs AcuPARiA {Mountain Ash). 

A genus of ornamental deciduous trees or shrubs, all hardy 
in California, the genus comprising about thirty species. All 
have handsome foliage and many have showy bunches of red 
berries which remain long on the bushes, often until late in the 
Winter. 

[156] 



Trees and Shrubs 



One species (Sorbus sambucifolia) is a native of California 
but is only found wild in the Sierras at an elevation of from 
five thousand to eight thousand feet. 

There are several other species, including the Service tree 
(Sorbus domes tica) and the Eastern (Sorbus Americana) all 
worthy of cultivation. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one-eighth of an 
inch deep in the open ground. 

Spartium junceum {Spanish Broom). 

The Spanish Broom is one of the shrubs 
best suited for planting in the background in 
portions of the garden removed from the reach 
of the hose as it requires no artificial irrigation 
after the first year. It grows in the poorest of 
soil and on the dryest hillside. 

It is a native of the Canary Islands and the 
shores of the Mediterranean. 

It gives its best effect, especially if viewed 
from a little distance, when growing in masses 
on a rocky hillside (facing the sun) and sur- 
rounded by Pines or other dark-green foliage, 
its bright yellow, pea-shaped flowers, which 
completely hide the leaves, making the color 
effect very striking. This is especially noticeable as it blooms 
in the late Autumn when few of our flowering shrubs are in 
bloom. 

Excepting a semi-double variety, no variation in this species 
has yet been found. 

This shrub is propagated by sowing the seeds during Winter 
or early Spring in the open ground or in a cold frame, the seeds 
being covered to the depth of half an inch. When the seedlings 
are four inches high they should be transplanted into pots, and, 
during the following Spring, set out in their permanent situations. 

[157] 




Spartium junceum. 



Gardening in California 



Spir 



EA. 




Spirea. 



A genus comprising about 
fifty species of handsome flower- 
ing shrubs mostly deciduous. 
All are hardy, free-flowering 
and of easy culture, and no 
garden is complete without a 
collection of these most beauti- 
ful shrubs. They are excellent 
subjects for bordering groups of 
taller or more strongly-growing 
kinds which alone are apt to 
form stiff or too formal effects. 
A good collection of Spirea, 
when well grown, will give a 
supply of flowers for quite a long season; for instance Spirea 
Chinensis commences blooming early in March and is succeeded 
by Spirea prunifolia; then follow the beautiful white-flowered 
sweet-scented Spirea media, the rosy-red Spirea Japonica and the 
Queen of the Prairie (Spirea lobata) with delicate peach-colored 
flowers, while Spirea Lindleyana, the latest flowering of all, 
blooms in September. These, with the addition of many vari- 
eties (including our native species Spirea Douglassii, Spirea 
aruncus, Spirea millefolia, Spirea opulifolia, Spirea dumosa, 
etc.) make a most desirable collection in any garden. 

The Spirea grows freely in any good soil with ordinary care 
and a reasonable amount of water during the growing season. 
Spirea aruncus, Spirea palmata and other herbaceous species 
prefer a damp, moist situation, particularly the bank of a stream 
where their fibrous roots may reach the water. 

The herbaceous species are best propagated by division of the 
roots, and the shrubby kind either by division of the roots or by 

[158] 



Trees and Shrubs 



cuttings, placed in the open ground in sandy soil in October or as 
soon as they shed their leaves. 

Sterculia. 

A genus of evergreen trees or shrubs comprising about sixty 
species, mostly natives of Australia, Asia and South America. 
They form stately trees of rather formal habit of stem and head, 
well adapted, under suitable conditions, for making good street 
trees. The best species for California are Sterculia acerifolia 
(the Australian Flame tree), Sterculia diversifolia (from Vic- 
toria) and Sterculia platanifolia (a native of China). All are 
fairly vigorous and prefer a warm sheltered situation. 

Propagate by cuttings of well-ripened wood placed, in Sep- 
tember, in a cool frame and shaded during hot sunshine until 
rooted or by seeds sown in Spring. Cover the seeds to the depth 
of one-eighth of an inch. 

Streptosolen. 

The Streptosolen is one of 
the finest of our trailing or 
creeping shrubs and is admir- 
ably adapted for covering slopes, 
for hanging over walls or for 
carpeting the ground among tall 
shrubs, its tubular orange-col- 
ored flowers being very at- 
tractive. 

Propagation of the Strepto- 
solen is effected by cuttings 
placed in a cold frame, during 
October, in sandy leaf-mold. 
Late in the following Spring, or 
as soon as the cuttings are well rooted, they should be planted in 
pots or in the open border. 

[159] 




Streptosolen. 



Gardening in California 



Styrax. 

The Styrax is one of our most desirable flowering shrubs, hav- 
ing leaves about three inches in length and graceful white pen- 
dulous flowers. It becomes a handsome object in the shrubbery 
and is good for cutting for table or hall decoration in vases. 

Of this genus, Styrax serrulata (a native of Japan) is one of 
the best for planting in California. 

Propagate by seeds sown, as soon as ripe, one-quarter of an 
inch deep in light sandy loam in the open ground. 

When the seedlings are one year old they should be trans- 
planted, in early Spring, into nursery rows and set about six 
inches apart. 

SWAINSONIA. 



.< 






% 


%X ■' 


I / 


''V^^ 


/^"-^ 


%.; 


T 


¥ 





Swainsonia. 



A genus comprising many species of 
elegant hardy shrubs with rather 
spreading habit, which, when planted 
in conjunction with other shrubs hav- 
ing stout upright branches, form a 
charming combination. Being all Aus- 
tralian, they take kindly to our climate 
and should be seen more often. 

Propagate either by seeds or by cut- 
tings put in sandy soil in a cool frame 
any time from July to October. Cover 
the seeds to the depth of one-sixteenth 
of an inch. 

Syncarpia. 



Syncarpia laurifolia is one of Australia's largest trees, grow- 
ing in that country to the height of two hundred feet. It has 
a rather spreading habit of growth and prefers a warm sunny 

[i6o] 



Trees and Shrubs 



situation; as it is very sensitive to cold, it should not be planted 
where the thermometer falls below twenty-six degrees Fahrenheit. 
It thrives in any good soil in any situation not too moist. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in March or April, not more than 
one-sixteenth of an inch deep, in a warm greenhouse, and potted 
off when three inches high; plant them in permanent quarters 
when they are about three feet in height. 



Syringa {Lilac). 

This favorite shrub, which 

flowers in early Spring, should 

be represented in every garden 

however small. It grows freely 

in any good garden soil but will 

amply repay such extra attention 

as it may receive in the way of 

the removal of suckers or a little 

additional top dressing. 

There are about ten species 

in the genus, including the Per- 
sian (Syringa Persica), the 
European (Syringa vulgaris), 
and the Japanese (Syringa Ja- 

ponica). These species have a number of varieties in many 
shades of color, varying from the deepest purple to the purest 
white. 

The Lilac is easily propagated by means of the suckers which 
are produced at the base of the established plant. These should 
be taken from the parent plant during Winter or early Spring 
and placed six inches apart in nursery rows, the distance between 
the rows being two feet. Here the young plants should remain 
until they are required for permanent planting. 




Syringa vulgaris. 



[i6i] 



Gardening in California 



Tamarix. 

No shrub is better adapted to the planting of any waste spot 
or for the filling up of a gap on the bank of a creek or where some 
other shrub has failed to grow. It stands exposure well, grow- 
ing even within the spray of salt water or in alkali soil ; in fact, 
it thrives under almost any conditions, preferring a sandy soil 
however, and a situation within the influence of the sea air. 

The Tamarix Gallica, Tamarix Orientalis, Tamarix plumosa, 
and Tamarix parriflora are all very desirable. 

Propagate by inserting cuttings into sandy soil in the open 
ground in the Winter months. 

Taxodium {Swamp Cypress'). 



*ff»i 



An excellent tree for semi- 
aquatic situations, having a soft 
light-green fern-like foliage, being 
very graceful in habit and highly 
ornamental. The genus comprises 
several species including Taxo- 
dium distichum (from Louisiana) 
and Taxodium mucronata, the 
Montezuma Cypress (from 
Mexico). 

Propagate by cuttings, during 
the Winter months, placed in a 
vessel of water where they will 
root in a few weeks, or by seeds 

sown one-eighth of an inch deep in light sandy soil, and placed 

in a warm greenhouse in Spring. 




Taxodium. 



162 



Trees and Shrub 



Taxus {'the Tezo). 

The Taxus comprises about eight species, natives of the East- 
em States, Europe and Japan, one being indigenous to California 
while another is a native of Mexico. 

Taxus baccata, the common English Yew, is indigenous to 
most of the countries of Europe, and extends even to British 
India. It grows, under favorable conditions, to the height of 
fifty feet with a trunk five feet in diameter. It has many vari- 
eties, including Taxus baccata argentia (having leaves striped 
with silvery white), Taxus baccata aurea (having leaves broadly 
edged with yellow; — this being a very desirable variety for 
planting in small grounds or for grouping among other Yews 
in larger grounds) and Taxus baccata fastigiata, the Irish Yew, 
or, as it is sometimes named, the Florence Court Yew, a species 
much used in formal gardens. 

The Yew grows in any soil and in any situation not too 
much exposed to harsh winds, and while it loves a semi-shady 
situation on the bank of a stream, it does well under any ordi- 
nary garden conditions. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-sixteenth of an inch deep in 
the open ground in Spring, or by cuttings inserted in September 
in sandy soil in a cool frame and shaded for a few weeks during 
hot sunshine. The variegated varieties are increased by grafting, 
in Winter, on the common species. They may also be propa- 
gated by layering in Summer. 

Templetonia (Coral Busk). 

A most beautiful ornamental shrub with simple leaves, a 
dense bushy habit and pea-shaped blossoms of bright crimson. 
It grows easily in any common soil and with very little irrigation, 
preferring a rather dry gravelly soil and a warm, sheltered situ- 
ation where it well repays any attention bestowed upon it. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy leaf-mold in a cold 
frame in September. 

[163] 



Gardening in California 



Thuya. 




Thuya gigantea. 



A genus of conifera compris- 
ing about a dozen species of 
hardy evergreen trees or shrubs, 
natives of America and Asia, two 
of them being indigenous to the 
Pacific Coast. Thuya gigantea, 
one of the Coast species, is a tall 
handsome evergreen graceful tree 
of pyramidal habit with some- 
what drooping branches, and 
grows, under favorable circum- 
stances, from one hundred to two 
hundred feet high with a diam- 
eter of stem from three to six 
feet, thriving well in any well-drained garden soil. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-eighth of an inch deep in 
boxes filled with light sandy soil in a cold frame in early Spring. 
Transplant them into open nursery rows when they are three 
inches high, and plant them in their permanent quarters when 
they are about two feet high. 

The Chinese species (Thuya Orientalis), of a dwarf habit, 
is much used in cemeteries and formal gardens, its formal sym- 
metrical habit making it a favorite in that style of gar- 
dening. Thuya Occidentalis, the eastern species, grows to a 
height of about sixty feet, and forms a narrow pyramidal rather 
compact head. 

The different species have many garden varieties, and a num- 
ber of them, including variegated forms, are very beautiful. 
These are propagated by cuttings placed in sand in a cold frame 
in the Fall or by grafting on the original species in early Spring. 



[164] 



Trees and Shrubs 



Thuyopsis Dolobrata. 

This small genus comprises only a few species natives of 
Japan. Their foliage is much like that of the Thuya but the 
habit is spreading and more open. They make handsome rock- 
work plants. They grow easily in any garden soil. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame in sandy soil 
mixed with leaf-mold, in October. 



TiLiA {Linden). 

The Linden is one of the most desirable of the large-growing 
trees, being symmetrical and formal in habit, especially when 
young. As a single specimen on the lawn or as an avenue tree 
it is unequalled. It loves a deep light loam and a sheltered site. 

There are several species, one a native of the Eastern States 
and one of Europe. These species have a number of varieties, 
the leaves of some of them being variegated. 

The Linden is propagated by seeds which should be sown 
as soon as ripe in the open ground one-quarter of an inch deep. 

ToRREYA (False Nutmeg I'ree). 

Ornamental evergreen trees with 
spreading branches and dark-green 
yew-like foliage. The Torreyas grow 
well in any well-drained soil and 
make handsome specimens for the 
lawn, either singly or planted in 
groups. Our native species (Torreya 
Coulterii) the handsomest of the 
genus, grows to a height of about one 
hundred feet; Torreya grandis grows 
to about the same height as does also 
the Florida species. 

All are propagated by seeds 

[165] 




Torreya Coulterii. 



Gardening in California 



planted one inch deep and three inches apart in the open ground 
in early Spring. They should be transplanted into nursery rows 
the following Spring, and, when from eighteen inches to two 
feet high, should be planted where they are to remain. 

Tristania. 

A small genus of Australian trees belonging to the Myrtle 
family having leaves about eight inches in length and oval in 
shape. When full-grown, the Tristania forms a stateh^ tree, 
being evergreen with an open head, and should make a good 
street tree. 

Propagate by seeds sown in Spring (covering the seeds very 
lightly with light sandy soil), or by cuttings of half-ripe wood 
in the Fall, placed in sand in a cold frame and shaded from sun 
for two or three weeks. When they are rooted, plant them in 
three-inch pots, giving them larger pots as the roots require. 



Ulmus (Elf/i). 

A genus comprising about 
twenty species of lofty deciduous 
trees, greatly used in parks and 
large grounds for grouping, and 
also as avenue and street sidewalk 
trees. In good soil the Elm is a 
rapid grower. 

In cultivating the Elm, care 
should be taken when plowing or 
spading about the roots, not to in- 
jure them, for, if the least scratch 
or bruise is made, there shoots up 
a bunch of suckers which are diffi- 
cult to get rid of. 
Ulmus Americana, Ulmus campestris, Ulmus scabra, and 

[i66] 




Uhnus. 



Trees and Shrubs 



their varieties are considered the best species for general planting. 
Propagate by seeds, sown one-eighth of an inch deep in the 
open ground, as soon as ripe which is generally in June; or by 
layers or suckers in Winter or early Spring before the buds swell ; 
or by grafting in Winter; or by budding in May. 



Umbellularia Californica {Cdllfornia Laurel). 

This genus contains but one species and is found only on the 
Pacific Coast. The Laurel is one of our grandest evergreens, 
being handsome even in the nursery; when from fifteen to forty 
feet high it forms a fine pyramid, and, when fully grown in 
favorable soil, is a magnificent specimen. It loves a deep well- 
drained soil, preferably on the bank of a stream. 

No evergreen tree, native or exotic, is better adapted for 
forming groups of dense foliage than the California Laurel if 
given a suitable place. In the hot interior valleys it is apt to be 
attacked by scale, so, on that account, should be given a shady 
situation and plenty of water at the roots, during the dry season. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one inch deep in 
the open ground. Transplant 
them into nursery rows when 
the young plants are six inches 
high. 



Veronica. 



A 



about 



genus comprismg 
one hundred and fifty species of 
shrubs or herbs, all being showy 
and free-flowering with blue, 
crimson or white flowers. They 
grow well in any garden soil in 

[167 




Veronica dccussata. 



Gardening in Californi 



almost any situation, either in the sun or the shade, and stand 
exposure to harsh winds better than most shrubs. Their habit 
is compact and very well adapted to finishing groups of strong- 
growing shrubs or trees, connecting perfectly the foliage of the 
strong-growing upright-habited with the grassy slope or level 
lawn. Their foliage is smooth, carries no dust and is always 
glossy and fresh looking. They flower in racemes and are always 
in bloom. 

The shrubby species are mostly natives of New Zealand. 

There are many species of this most desirable shrub, includ- 
ing Veronica Andersonii, Veronica buxifolio, Veronica decussata, 
Veronica Colensoi, Veronica elliptica, etc., all being excellent 
shrubs, especially for the coast counties, but they are not rec- 
ommended for the central counties unless planted under the 
shade of trees or on a Northern exposure. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in light sandy soil in a cold 
frame in September or October. 

Viburnum. 



bery 



A genus comprising about 
eighty species of deciduous and 
evergreen low trees and shrubs, 
all being hardy in California. 
Many of the species are highly 
ornamental. Viburnum tinus 
being grown in almost every 
garden in the State, while Vi- 
burnum opulus sterilis (the 
Common Snowball) is also a 
universal favorite. No decidu- 
ous flowering shrub is better 
suited to the planting of shrub- 
borders than the Snowball, its many varieties, its great 

[i68] 




Viburnum tinus. 



Trees and Shrub 



masses of white pendant cymes in Spring, and its beautiful tinted 
leaves in the Fall making it most desirable. 

These excellent qualities, combined with its easy culture in 
any ordinary soil (although it prefers a moist soil and partial 
shade), should commend it to all lovers of flowering shrubs. 

In addition to the above named. Viburnum Japonicum, 
Viburnum tomentosum. Viburnum macrophyllum (Chinese Snow- 
ball) and several others are very effective. 

Propagate by cuttings of ripe wood in the Fall, or by seeds, 
sown one-eighth of an inch deep in the Spring, or by layering in 
Summer, all in the open ground. 



ViRGiLiA lute:?^ 



The Virgilia is one of our 
most handsome flowering trees 
and blooms during August and 
September, when very few trees 
or shrubs are showing color, thus 
being a most desirable tree for 



the garden. 



It grows to the 




Virgilia In tea. 



Ivtt ^ y^Jyi^^^^ 



height of about forty feet and 
is of a graceful spreading habit. 
With its deeply cut pinnate 
leaves, when laden with its pan- 
icles of pale lilacrcolored flowersj^ 
it makes a fine effect on the 
lawn or in the shrubbery. It 
thrives in any well-drained garden soil. 

Propagate by seeds which should be sown, in Spring, about 
one-quarter of an inch deep in the open ground. When one year 
old, the seedlings should be transplanted into nursery rows. Set 
them twelve inches apart. 



[169] 



Gardening in California 



CHAPTER VIII. 



CLIMBERS AND TWINERS. 



Ampelopsis. 



AMPELOPSIS is a genus of about twenty species of hardy 
deciduous ornamental climbers which grow freely in any 
garden soil, all being rapid growers and thriving in any 
position or aspect. They are excellent for training against the 
walls of buildings, and, when they take on their Autumn tints of 
bright red and yellow, present a striking appearance. 

Ampelopsis quinquefolia (the Virginia creeper) and Am- 
pelopsis tricuspidata (the Boston Ivy) are the most useful. 

The Ampelopsis is easily propagated by seeds sown in 
Spring one eighth of an inch deep in a cool frame, or by cuttings 
of ripe wood placed in the open ground in sandy soil in 
September. 

Aristolochia. 

A genus of woody twiners with irregular and grotesque 
flowers, one species being a native of California. Aristolochia 
sipho, commonly called The Dutchman's Pipe, is a very rapid 
grower, sometimes making over twenty feet in a single season. 

They like a warm sheltered situation and plenty of water at 
the root during the growing season. 

Propagate by cuttings, in September, placed in pots filled 
with sandy leaf-mold, in a cool frame, and shaded from the 
sun until rooted; when they are rooted, pot them in three-inch 
pots and plant them out the following Spring. 



170 



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BiGNONiA {^rumpet Vine^. 




The Bignonias are nearly all 
either climbers or twiners. They 
are vigorous growers and have 
gorgeous trumpet or funnel- 
shaped flowers, some of them 
possessing flower-tubes six 
inches in length. 

These handsome climbers 
are excellent plants for covering 
walls, growing over old stumps 
of trees, forming screens or trel- 
lises, etc. They will grow in 

any good garden soil, preferring Bignonia chcrcrc. 

however a sheltered situation. 
A wall facing the east is adapted for their full development. 

This is another genus, which the gardeners of California have 
introduced from the greenhouses of the East and from Europe, 
now giving splendid effects in our favored State. Bignonia 
Capreotata (a native of the Southern United States) is one of 
the hardiest and has orange-colored flowers. This species has a 
variety, with dark- red flowers, also a very desirable climber. 
Bignonia cherere is a fine species bearing quantities of brownish- 
orange flowers. Bignonia diversifolia bears yellow and Bignonia 
floribunda purple flowers. Bignonia Tweediana, one of the best 
of the genus, with pretty lance-shaped leaves, has yellow flowers 
and is an elegant climber of rapid growth. Bignonia Venusta 
bears glorious masses of blossoms and should be in every 
collection. 

The Bignonia is propagated by cuttings placed in a cold frame 
during August or September in soil composed of one-half sand, 
one-quarter leaf-mold and one-quarter good loam, well mixed 
together, or by seeds sown in Spring a quarter of an inch deep. 

f 171 ] 



Gardening in California 



BOUGAINVILLEA. 



The Bougainvillea is justly 
classed among the most showy 
of our climbers, and, when 
planted by a veranda or when 
allowed to climb on a tall tree or 
building gives gorgeous effects. 
This climber delights in a 
warm sheltered situation and 
good soil with a reasonable 
amount of water during the 
summer months. There are sev- 
eral varieties, all of which are 
desirable, including Bougain- 
villea speciosa, Bougainvillea 

Saunderiana, Bougainvillea glabra and Bougainvillea lateritia. 
The Bougainvillea is easily increased by cuttings, put in a 

frame during September or March and given a little heat. 




Bousaiiiz'illca. 



Clematis. 

The Clematis is among the 
most beautiful of our hardy 
climbers. The large-flowering va- 
rieties are unequaled for decorating 
the porch or veranda pillars. The 
small-flowered species, such as the 
Clematis paniculata, should be 
planted at the base of a tall tree 
where they send their shoots often to 
a height of fifty feet and form great 
masses of white fragrant blossoms. 

The Clematis thrives in any 
good garden soil but prefers a light 

[172] 




Clematis. 



Climbers and Twiners 



sandy soil well enriched by old manure and plenty of water 
during the growing season. Should any signs of mildew appear, 
dust with flowers of sulphur at once, so as to stop the mildew 
from spreading. All the Clematis flower better if severely 
pruned each Fall or Winter before growth commences. 

Propagate the finer varieties by cuttings or by grafting on 
common stock in Summer. 

COBAEA SCANDENS. 

The Cobffia is a rampant-growing soft-wooded climber with 
bell-shaped flowers, thriving well in any good soil but pre- 
ferring a sheltered, sunny situation. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in February, one-eighth of an inch 
deep in a hotbed, and potted off in three-inch pots. As soon as 
the young plants have filled the pots with roots, gradually harden 
them by placing the pots in a cold frame; in May, plant them 
out where they are to remain. 

DOLICHOS. 

The Dolichos is a free-growing ornamental twiner with pea- 
shaped flowers and pretty light-green foliage, growing freely in 
any soil and thriving either in the sun or in the shade. 

Propagate by seeds sown either in the open ground in early 
Spring or at any season under glass. Cover the seeds to the depth 
of one-sixteenth of an inch. 

ECCREMOCARPUS. 

A genus of elegant hardy evergreen climbers with yellow or 
orange-red flowers tubular shaped. The leaves are compound 
with oval-shaped leaflets. They are excellent for covering fences, 
walls, etc., growing freely in any soil. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame in August or 
September; shade them during sunshine until the young roots 
are formed, when they should be potted off into three-inch pots. 

[ 173] 



Gardening in California 



Hedera Helix (Ivy). 

Few climbing plants will be found more useful than the old- 
fashioned Ivy as it grows in any soil and almost any aspect. 
It is good for covering walls, railings or rustic houses, and makes 
excellent bordering for walks or a covering for bare spots under 
trees where few other plants will grow. Should the leaves get 
dusty, it is a good plan to clip off all the leaves annually, about 
the end of March or just before the Spring growth begins, and 
in a few weeks the old leaves will be replaced by a new crop of 
bright clean foliage. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in the open ground in October 
or November; in a few months they will be rooted and ready to 
be planted in their permanent places, 

Ipomoea. 

The Ipomoea is an extensive genus, having over four hundred 
species of twining or creeping plants whose campanula or salver- 
shaped blossoms are of all shades of purple, red, blue or white. 
They are among the prettiest of plants for covering the limbs of 
old trees, trellises, veranda pillars, etc. All of the species may 
be easily raised from seeds which should be sown in early Spring, 
one eighth of an inch deep in four-inch pots filled with good 
loam mixed with about one-third sand; sow three seeds in each 
pot and place the pots in a warm place under glass. When the 
young seedlings are about six inches high they should be tied to 
small temporary stakes and gradually hardened by exposure to 
the open air; after two weeks' exposure to the open they are 
ready to be planted out. 

Jasminum. 

The Jasminum are well-known plants and are very popular 
on account of their elegant habit and sweet-scented flowers. 
They make excellent covering for fences, trellises, arbors, etc., 
and thrive in any good garden soil. 

[174I 



Climbers and Twiner 



Jasminum nudiflorum is one of our earliest Spring-flowering 
plants, often opening bright-yellow flowers as early as January. 
Jasminum officianale, the fragrant common Jasmine, blooms 
continuously from early Summer until late in the Autumn. 

Propagate by layers laid in an inch deep in ordinary soil 
in June, or by cuttings of the ripe wood, in September, inserted 
one inch deep in sandy soil in a cold frame or in the open ground ; 
select shoots not showing flower at the top. 

Kennedya. 

The Kennedyas are rapid-growing hardy twiners, natives of 
Australia; they like a warm sunny situation. They bear pea- 
shaped flowers, reddish-brown or scarlet in color. Any good 
garden soil will grow them well. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one-quarter of an 
inch deep in a warm greenhouse or hotbed ; when they are large 
enough to be handled, pot them singly in three or four-inch pots ; 
gradually harden them by exposure to the open air and plant 
them out, when they show signs of making fresh growth. 

Lathyrus odoratus (Sweet Pea). 

This general favorite is a 
native of the Mediterranean 
islands and consequently is at 
home in the climate of Califor- 
nia. It thrives well in any good 
garden soil, but, in order to ob- 
tain the best results the soil 
should be trenched two spades 
in depth and four inches of old 
manure mixed with the soil. 

In addition to its value as a 
garden plant, the Sweet Pea 
makes a very good window-box 

[175 




Lafliynts odoratus. 



Gardening in California 



plant, its fragrant many-colored flowers spreading a pleasant 
odor throughout the room when it is thus grown. 

In planting the Sweet Pea seeds, form with a hoe or shovel 
a shallow furrow about two feet wide and three inches deep, in 
the middle of which draw the seed-drill three inches deep. In 
this seed-drill the seeds should be planted about three inches apart. 
When the young plants are six inches high, place a row of tree 
limbs or a fence of wire netting alongside them so that they may 
have something to climb over. Also spread a mulch of manure 
about the plants; this will keep the ground cool and preserve 
the moisture. Where a succession of bloom is desired, the seeds 
should be sown about three times a year. Seeds which are sown 
during Winter or early Spring should have a covering of soil 
one inch deep while those sown in Summer or early Fall should 
be covered to the depth of from two to two and a half inches 
and shaded with a light covering of straw or some other light 
material until the seeds come through the surface. 



LoNiCERA (Honeysuckle). 





E 


|KS 


^^H 




• "'4 




^H 




L 


1^ 


m^^ 




i 


L 




\ffi,~ ^.'fy,^;'".' 


Hi 




iC^H 



Loniccra. 



The Honeysuckle is an ex- 
tensive genus, comprising over 
eighty species of hardy decidu^ 
ous or evergreen shrubs or climb- 
ers with tubular-shaped flowers, 
many of them delightfully frag- 
rant. They are well suited for 
covering walls, arbors, and trel- 
lises or for mixing with shrubs 
where they give charming natu- 
ral effects, twining, as they do, 
around the stems and forming a 
carpet to the ground under the 
shrubs. 
[176] 



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The fragrant-flowered deciduous English or common Wood- 
bine and the evergreen Japanese species are among the best of 
the genus. 

Propagate by cuttings of the ripe wood inserted in the open 
ground in the Fall. 



Mandevillea suaveolens. 

The Mandevillea is one of our 
most handsome climbers, its elegant 
twining habit and its pure white fra- 
grant flowers making it very desir- 
able for training against walls or 
trellises. It thrives in any good soil, 
but should not be grown in cold ex- 
posed situations. 

Propagate by seeds sown one- 
eighth of an inch deep, in heat in 
early Spring; plant them singly in 
small pots as soon as they are large 

, 1 1 n 1 in Mandevillea suaveolens. 

enough to be handled; gradually 

harden them off and plant them out in early Summer. 




Maurandya. 

The Maurandyas are very pretty climbers with small heart- 
shaped leaves and funnel-shaped flowers. They are easily grown 
if given a sheltered spot away from harsh winds. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in March, one-sixteenth of an 
inch deep, in a cool frame or greenhouse; when they have made 
four leaves, transplant them into either pots or boxes; after 
gradually exposing them to the open air to be hardened, plant 
them where they are to remain. 

[ 177 ] 



Gardening in California 



MUEHLENBECKIA. 

This is a genus comprising about fifteen species of hardy 
shrubs, mostly natives of Australia and New Zealand. They are 
of very easy culture, thriving in any fair garden soil and a sunny 
situation. 




Muchlcnbcckia coniplcxa. 



Muehlenbeckia complexa is one of the best of our hardy 
climbers, being excellent for growing over rocky ledges, old 
stumps, etc., for hanging or drooping over the rims of vases or 
for hanging over walls. Its habit is dense. On account of its 
distinct form, the brownish color of its leaves and its heavy 
spray-like branches it is very valuable for cutting. 

This climber is propagated by cuttings placed in a cold frame 
in September and shaded during sunshine until well rooted. 



[178] 



Climbers and Twiners 



Passiflora. 

A large genus of highly interesting climbers of rapid growth, 
mostly natives of tropical America. They are noted for their 
elegant habit and gorgeous flowers, making grand effects when 
planted at the base of an old Pine or Oak tree and allowed to 
twine along the branches of the tree and to hang down in long 
pendants laden with their gaily-colored oddly-shaped flowers. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in light sandy soil in a cold 
frame in September; pot them into three-inch pots and plant 
them out in the early Spring. 

SOLANUM. 

The Solanum Wendlandii is one of the best of the climbers, 
no one of its color giving so good results when it has been put in 
a suitable place, its lilac-blue flowers producing gorgeous effects 
for several months of the year. It delights in a well-protected 
sunny situation and a fairly good soil. 

Solanum jasminoides, (the common Potato Vine) is also 
very desirable. This species is much hardier than the former and 
will grow well in almost any soil or situation, preferably how- 
ever at the base of an old tree; hanging from the branches it is 
very effective. 

The Solanum is propagated by cuttings which should be 
placed in sandy soil in a warm frame in August. 



179] 



Gardening in California 



Wistaria. 

This beautiful Spring-flowering climber is so 
well known as hardly to require any description. 
The genus contains about five species. Wistaria 
speciosa is a native of North America and blooms 
a month later than Wistaria Sinensis, a native of 
China, which is the species most grown. Wistaria 
Japonica and Wistaria mutijuga, (the former 
bearing white flowers and the latter lilac flowers 
with purple wings) are natives of Japan. These 
again have varieties which bear double flowers. 
The Wistaria delights in a light and rich soil, 
and, if given this, will produce branches sometimes 
a hundred feet in length on each side of the main 
stem, giving gorgeous masses of bloom in the 
early Spring. 
The Wistaria forms great bundles of small growths which 
often become matted under the eaves of buildings or about the 
stems of old trees. Where they grow freely, these matted 
growths should, in Winter, or before growth commences in early 
Spring, be carefully disentangled and all of the weaker growths 
should be pruned back to a strong spur or bud, the remaining 
branches being laid in and fastened by ties to the wall or other 
support, not closer together, however, than twelve inches. 

Propagation of the Wistaria is effected most easily by seeds 
sown during early Spring, one-half of an inch deep, in a warm 
frame or greenhouse, or by layering in June. 




Wistaria. 



[i8o] 



Bulbous and Tuberous Rooted Plants 



CHAPTER IX. 



BULBOUS AND TUBEROUS ROOTED PLANTS. 



Agapanthus. 

THE African lily is one of our favorite 
bulbous-rooted plants, with luxuriant yet 
graceful foliage and great umbels of 
bright blue or white flowers in clusters of from 
twenty to thirty measuring over a foot across. 
It makes a fine showing in the flower-border or 
on the lawn. It thrives best in deep rich loamy 
soil, well enriched with manure, and can hardly 
receive too much water during the growing 
season. 

Propagate by offsets or by dividing the old 
plants into single crowns and planting them in 
March. 

Amaryllis. 




Agapanthus. 



The Amaryllis are among the most gorgeous of our bulbous 
flowering plants. Some of the genus, such as Amaryllis bella- 
donna, have the flowering season over before the leaves appear. 
Their tall stems (large heads of fragrant and beautiful pink 
flowers) make them great favorites for cutting and for filling 
vases. They delight in soil of a light rich nature, in which 
they should be planted about eight inches deep and left undis- 
turbed for years, where they will ultimately establish themselves 
and produce grand masses of bloom. During dry weather and 
until they have perfected their foliage, they should be given an 
abundance of water, after which they do not require so much, 
and it may gradually be withdrawn altogether. 

[i8i] 



Gardening in California 



Vallota purpurea and Imantophyllum miniatum will be 
found to do excellently if given a warm sheltered situation and a 
rich loamy soil. Plant the Vallota bulbs six inches apart and the 
Imantophyllums twelve inches apart, one-half of the bulb being 
above ground. 

Propagate by dividing the bulbs and planting them in March, 
or by seeds collected as soon as ripe in the Fall and sown in a 
warm, sheltered border or cold frame in early Spring; cover the 
seeds to the depth of about a quarter of an inch. 

Calochortus {Mariposa Lily). 

Handsome native bulbous plants with showy flowers and 
erect flower-stems. There are about twenty varieties, all of 
which are very beautiful. They require a good strong loam of 
considerable depth to grow well. Pasture fields are the native 
homes of the Mariposa Lilies. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, in light loam, cover- 
ing the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch, or by division 
of the bulbs which should be taken up as soon as the leaves turn 
yellow and the bulbs are in a dormant state. Keep the bulbs 
in a cool dry position covered by light loam or sand to prevent 
them shrinking, as leaving them all Winter in paper bags or in 
dry sheds seems to dry them too much and to weaken their 
growth the following year. Plant them immediately after the 
hrst Fall rains, from six to twelve inches apart and from two to 
three inches deep. Select a spot away from artificial irrigation. 
On no account disturb the bulbs and they will give improved 
flowers year by year. 



182 1 



Bulbous and Tuberous Rooted Plants 



Crocus. 

This well-known genus is among the earliest of our Spring 
flowers, often opening its flower-scapes the first week in January. 
It prefers a light, rich, loamy soil and a sheltered situation. 

After they are done blooming and the leaves turn yellow, 
the bulbs should be taken up. 

Propagate by dividing the bulbs when they are in a dormant 
state ; keep them, in a cool dry place, covered with dry soil until 
the next planting season in October or the early part of Novem- 
ber; plant them about three inches deep. 

The Crocus may also be propagated by seeds sown about a 
quarter of an inch deep, as soon as ripe or in early Spring, in 
light rich soil, and left in the seed-bed for two years when the 
young corms may be separated and transplanted. 

Hyacinth. 

In the cultivation of this handsome bulbous plant, a light 
rich soil should be provided, and firm, solid bulbs of good size 
selected; soft spongy bulbs give weak stems and poor flowers. 
Plant the bulbs about eight inches apart, and three inches deep, 
placing a little sand in the hole before planting. The latter end 
of October or the first week in November will be found the best 
time to plant. As soon as the flower-spikes are from six to eight 
inches high they should be neatly staked to prevent the flowers 
being broken by their own weight; should the weather continue 
dry in Spring or while they are in bloom, they should be watered 
freely as any dryness at the root will weaken the growth and 
shorten their season of bloom. As soon as the foliage is ripe or 
turned yellow in color, the bulbs should be taken up and the 
foliage cleaned off; when they are thoroughly dry, they should 
be packed in boxes filled with dry soil and laid away in a cool 
dry place until the following season. 

[ 183 ] 



Gardening in Californi 



Propagate by dividing the bulbs, taking the offsets from the 
old bulbs as soon as they are taken up; place the offsets in 
separate boxes and plant them, in small beds or borders, two 
inches deep in light rich soil. They flower the third year. 

Iris. 

The Iris belongs to a genus of over one 
hundred species of hardy herbaceous plants with 
creeping or tuberous root-stocks. The Iris is 
found naturally all over the Temperate Zone, 
in America, from Canada to California, and in 
Europe from Russia to sunny Spain, while the 
gorgeous Iris kaempferi and Iris tectorum come 
to us from Japan; others are natives of Siberia, 
and quite a few are from China. 

The Iris delights in a deep rich clayey soil, 
preferably alongside the bed of a stream or 
canal or on the banks of a pool or lake where 
the moisture rises within two feet of the surface. 
If these conditions are not available, a bed 

should be prepared by trenching the soil two feet deep and 

mixing the soil freely with old decomposed manure. 

Plant the bulbs or roots so that about one inch of soil covers 

the crown, and give them water copiously during the growing 

season. 

Iris Germanica, Iris Florentini, Iris Susiana, and the dwarf 

Iris pumila, besides many others, are well worthy of prominent 

positions in our gardens and pleasure-grounds. 

Propagate by division of the roots or bulbs in early Spring, 

or by sowing the seeds in light sandy soil in either a cold frame 

or a sheltered border as soon as the seeds are ripe. Cover the 

seeds a quarter of an inch deep. 




Iris. 



[184] 



Bulbous and Tuberous Rooted Plants 



IXIA. 

This beautiful Spring-flowering bulb is most useful for giving 
a fine effect in Spring and early Summer from its elegant habit, 
its graceful flower-stalks and its rich and varied colors, the 
center of the flowers always differing in shades from the other 
parts. 

The genus contains about twenty-five species of easy culture 
in any good garden soil. 

In October or early in November plant the bulbs about six 
inches deep; as soon as the leaves turn yellow take up the bulbs 
and store them in a cool dry place until the next planting season. 

Propagation by offsets is the quickest method of increasing 
the number of plants ; they may be secured in quantity after the 
parent bulbs have ripened off; store them in a cool dry place 
until the planting season ; plant the offsets in a sheltered position 
about three inches apart for one season ; the second year they will 
bloom and may be planted in their blooming quarters. 

They may also be propagated by seeds which should be sown 
in pans or boxes about September and placed in a cold frame; 
cover the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of an inch ; the second 
year plant the young bulbs a few inches apart in a sheltered spot, 
taking up the bulbs as soon as ripe and storing them until plant- 
ing time. They will bloom the third year. 

Kniphofia {Redhot Poker Plant). 

This handsome stately herbaceous plant is a general favorite 
on account of its striking color and adaptability to almost any 
soil or position, doing well in poor soil although it prefers rich 
loam. Even on our rocky dry hillsides it struggles along and 
boldly sends up its large tufts of long narrow leaves and stately 
flower-stalks covered with scarlet or yellow blossoms until late 
in the season. 

[185] 



Gardening in Californi 



Propagate by dividing the crowns in early Spring, planting 
them where wanted to flower, which they will do the succeeding 
Summer and Fall. Cover the crowns to the depth of one inch. 

LiLiuM (Lily). 

Lilies are matchless among hardy bulbs for beauty of form 
and variety of color and also for the length of their blooming 
season. They delight in a cool fresh soil and a sheltered semi- 
shaded situation; grouped among tall shrubs they show to good 
advantage. After the stems are well-formed and about one foot 
high, give them a good top-dressing of well-decomposed manure 
about three inches deep all over the surface of the ground, and 
abundance of water until the flowering season is over when water 
should be gradually withdrawn so as to encourage the ripening 
of the bulbs. 

They are increased by taking the small bulblets which form 
about the old bulbs (as soon as the bulbs are ripe which is shown 
by the leaves and stems turning yellow and dropping off) and 
planting them half an inch deep in separate beds in light rich 
soil, growing them on until they are large enough to bloom, 
when they may be planted out in the beds or borders where 
they are to flower. When the young bulblets are taken up they 
should be transplanted into their new quarters without any delay, 
as exposure to drying wind or being allowed to lie any length 
of time in a dry atmosphere (even if in a shed or shaded situa- 
tion) has a weakening effect on their future growth. 

With a good selection of the many gorgeous species. Lilies 
may be had in bloom for several months. Among the earliest- 
flowering kinds may be mentioned Lilium candidum (St. Joseph's 
Lily), and our splendid natives Lilium Washingtonianum, 
Lilium Pardalinum, and Lilium Humboldtii; following them, 
Lilium tigrinum, Lilium lancefolium and its varieties the splen- 
did Lilium auratum and the tall and stately Lilium giganteum, 
besides many others equally beautiful. 

[ i86 ] 



Bulbous and Tuberous Rooted Plants 



MONTBRETIA. 

This hardy free-flowering bulbous plant is a native of South 
Africa and grows to the height of about two and one-half feet. 
It thrives well in any good garden soil and increases rapidly, its 
roots spreading freely. It requires little attention beyond getting 
a plentiful supply of water until the blooming season is over 
when the water may be gradually withdrawn. It should be 
taken up and replanted about March in every third year. The 
roots get so thickly matted together by that time that the ground 
becomes impoverished, the result being small and imperfect 
flowers and foliage. The Montbretias make excellent plants for 
carpeting in groups of young shrubs which still show bare ground 
between the plants. 

Propagate in early Spring by dividing the roots and planting 
them twelve inches apart in bunches of from three to six bulbs 
each. Cover them to the depth of half an inch. 

Narcissus (Daffodil). 

A genus of popular hardy Spring- 
flowering plants with handsome white or 
yellow flowers. They are excellent for 
filling beds or borders and make fine ef- 
fects when planted in apparently natural 
groups in the lawn. 

When planting them in the lawn, 
avoid symmetrical lines or formal shapes 
as far as possible, a good plan being to 
take the bulbs in the hand and to scatter 
them freely, planting them where they 
fall. When planting in the grass, take 
up a piece of the sod about three inches in 
diameter and six inches deep; in the 

bottom place about an inch of light rich soil, then plant the bulb, 

[187] 




Narcissus. 



Gardening in California 



fill in another three inches of soil, and, on top of this, replace 
the sod which should be root-trimmed to one inch thick, leaving 
the lawn level and smooth as before digging. 

When planting groups in the herbaceous or mixed border, 
if possible give them a partially shaded situation, making the 
groups of irregular outline and seeing that each group contains 
one variety only. 

The best soil for the Daffodils is a deep rich brown loam 
which has been freely manured the previous Spring, and from 
which a crop of some annual flowers has been gathered. In 
August, after clearing off the asters, stocks and other Summer- 
flowering plants, spade the ground over to the depth of at least 
one foot, leave the ground open for two or three weeks, rake the 
surface over and plant the Narcissus bulbs from four to six inches 
deep and from eight to twelve inches apart. 

As soon as the flowering season is over, and the foliage is 
ripe, which will be shown by the leaves becoming yellow, the 
bulbs should be dug up and stored away (after removing the 
dry leaves) in boxes filled with dry soil and kept in a cool dry 
cellar until September or October, when they should be replanted 
where they are wanted for effect the following Spring, or, if the 
space is not required, the bulbs may be left in the ground and will 
give good results the following season. 

The usual mode of propagation is by offsets which should be 
separated from the parent bulbs during the dormant season and 
planted out separately for a year in order that they may grow 
large enough for flowering. They may also be raised from seeds 
but the process is a slow one. The seeds should be sown as soon 
as ripe a quarter of an inch deep in light loamy soil, in pans or 
boxes; the second year plant out the young bulblets about two 
inches apart and a quarter of an inch deep in a prepared border. 
The third year plant them in their flowering quarters as before 
directed. 

[i88] 



Bulbous and Tuberous Rooted Plants 

Narcissus Jon^uilla {Jonquil). 

Jonquils are now classed under the head of Narcissus, thriv- 
ing under the same treatment as the daffodils. Although not 
so large-growing as some of the Narcissus, they are much admired 
for their delicate fragrance and the bright golden color of their 
long narrow tubular necks and their saucer-shaped crowns. 

They should be planted about the middle of November. 

PoLiANTHES TuBEROSA (ffuberose). 

This beautiful Autumn-blooming tuberous-rooted plant is 
a native of our sister republic, Mexico, and thrives well in our 
warmer valleys and in sheltered situations in the coast counties. 
It prefers a sandy loam generously enriched, which should be 
well-cultivated by the soil being stirred and the surface hoed 
after each watering. Plant the tubers twelve inches apart, in 
early Spring, about one inch of soil covering the bulbs. They 
are much used in planting in clumps in flower-borders and shrub- 
beries. 

Propagate in Winter by dividing the bulbs. 

Ranunculus Asiaticus. 

There are two forms of this lovely Spring-flowering Ranun- 
culus, viz., the Persian and the Turban. The Persian has a com- 
pact symmetrical habit, the Turban being more spreading and 
larger every way ; the flowers of both sections are very beautiful 
and they both make excellent bedders. Both have numerous 
varieties and range in color from white, through all shades of 
browns and yellows, to scarlet, or they are speckled and striped 
most charmingly. 

They thrive best in a rich light soil well mixed with old cow- 
manure ; they should be carefully watered during dry weather — 

[189] 



Gardening in California 



not overwatered, however, as they abhor stagnant moisture, too 
much water causing their foliage to become yellow and the 
flowers to become weak and short-lived. 

As soon as the flowering season is over and the leaves are 
ripe, take the roots up, remove the foliage, dry the little bulblets 
and store them away in boxes filled with dry soil in a cool cellar 
until planting time arrives which should be in November, In 
planting, set them out about six inches apart and two inches 
deep, care being taken to plant them with their crowns uppermost. 

Propagate by dividing the claw-like tubers as soon as ripe, 
which is generally early in June. They flower the second year. 

RicHARDiA Ethiopica {Calhi Lily). 

This genus comprises five species of hardy South African 
Aroides, all having handsome foliage and tall-growing elegant 
flower-spathes. They are of easy cultivation if given plent)^ of 
moisture; a light sandy soil, if well manured, suits them very 
well, but they also seem to thrive in heavy muck or loam if 
given plenty of water, or if partially submerged and treated as 
a semi-aquatic. 

Propagate by offsets or by dividing the roots, in Winter or 
early Spring; plant about one foot apart, covering the tops one or 
two inches deep. 

SciLLA (Wood Hyacinth). 

The Scillas are among the most beautiful of our hardy Spring- 
flowering plants. Some of the species, being natives of Spain 
and Portugal, are specially adapted for growing here in Cali- 
fornia. They thrive well in any good garden soil, although soil 
of a light sandy loam seems to suit them best. In September, 
plant them six inches deep where wanted to bloom, selecting 

[ 190] 



Bulbous and Tuberous Rooted Plants 



any out-of-the-way spot under the shade of trees, even the shade 
of the heaviest Pines, where few other plants will thrive. There 
are several fine species including many colors. 

Scilla Campanulata and its variously-colored varieties make 
charming and effective groups in flower-borders and shrubberies. 

Propagate in the dormant season by separating the offsets 
from the parent bulbs and growing them on in a separate bed or 
border for one year. The following season they should be ready 
to be planted where they are to bloom. 

TiGRIDIA. 

Few flowers are more gorgeously colored or more beautiful 
than this hardy vigorous-growing bulbous plant. It thrives well 
in any good soil and a warm sheltered situation. Plant the bulbs 
about three inches deep and six inches apart, in September or 
October. 

Propagate either by seeds sown in early Spring, covering the 
seeds about a quarter of an inch deep, or by offsets taken from 
the old bulbs during the dormant season. 

Tulips. 

These well-known hardy Spring-flowering bulbs are very 
popular for the decoration of our gardens, and, where a good col- 
lection is grown, may be had in bloom from February to June. 
They thrive well in any good light loam, and, in October or early 
in November, should be planted from three to four inches deep 
where they are to bloom; plant them, with a trowel, about eight 
inches apart. 

After they have finished blooming, and their leaves become 
brown, the bulbs should be taken up from the soil and laid singly 
in a cool shaded airy shed until thoroughly ripened, when they 
should be stored in shallow boxes and placed in an airy dark dry 
cellar until the planting season. 

[191] 



Gardening in California 



In planting, care should be taken to plant in the same bed 
those varieties which bloom early, the same rule being followed 
with those which bloom later, for, if the late-blooming varieties 
were planted among those which flower in February, or March, 
the result would be disappointing as the early species would be 
out of flower and their foliage would be brown before the late- 
blooming species began to show color. 

Propagate by offsets taken from the parent bulbs when they 
are lifted; these offsets should be grown by themselves until large 
enough for flowering. 



[ 192 



Palms 



CHAPTER X. 

PALMS. 

Areca Sapida. 

THIS very ornamental genus of Palm is a native of New- 
Zealand and is not hardy where the temperature falls 
below twenty-eight degrees Fahrenheit. From Santa 
Barbara south it forms grand specimens, and also in some favored 
localities farther north if planted under the shade of other trees 
and away from cold draughts. It thrives best in a light sandy 
soil well enriched with old w^ell-decomposed manure. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in February or March, one inch 
deep in a hotbed or in a w^arm greenhouse. When the seedlings 
are about four inches high, plant them in three-inch pots and give 
them more room as growth advances. 

Chamaerops. 

The Chamserops are among the hardiest of our fan Palms 
while they are also free-growing and easily transplanted. Cha- 
mserops humilis, which is a native of the Mediterranean regions, 
is of a dwarf habit; Chamserops excelsa, which is from China, 
is of a more stately habit, sometimes attaining a height of thirty 
feet and growing handsome crowns of deeply cut fan-shaped 
leaves. 

They delight in plenty of water and a well-drained soil. 

Propagate by seeds sown one inch deep, in heat, in early 
Spring; when they are four inches high, pot them in three-inch 
pots; when they are one year old, plant them in the open ground 
in nursery rows. They may also be propagated by suckers taken 
from the base of old plants in early Spring. 

[ 193] 



Gardening in California 



Cocos. 

Cocos austral is, the hardiest of the genus, is worthy of more 
attention from planters than it has received in the past and should 
do well in all of our valley counties. Cocos plumosa, a native of 
Southern Brazil, does surprisingly well in Southern California 
from Santa Barbara south, where avenues of them may be seen. 
They frequently attain a height of forty feet and make grand 
objects of stately beauty. 

Propagate by seeds planted, in March, one inch deep in a 
warm greenhouse and grown on in pots until four feet high when 
they may be planted out of doors, in a situation protected from 
frosts and harsh winds, until large enough to be planted in their 
permanent quarters. 

Erythea. 

The Erytheas are natives of this coast and perfectly hardy 
in all the valley and coast counties, so grow well in any garden 
soil with ordinary treatment. 

Erythea armata, commonly called the Blue Palm, is of slow 
growth and very distinct in habit and in the color of its leaves 
which are of a bluish grey and deeply cut. Erythea edulis is a 
much quicker grower, having larger leaves of deep green. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in Spring, one inch deep in a warm 
greenhouse or in a mild hotbed and grown in pots for at least one 
year when they may be planted in the nursery. 

JUBEA. 

Jubea spectabilis or Wine Palm of Chile is one of our hardiest 
palms, growing well even in San Francisco. It has much the 
same habit as the Date Palm family but differs from them in its 
closer habit and heavier foliage, being an excellent palm for small 
gardens as it is of slow growth and formal habit and is not par- 
ticular as to soil. 

[ 194] 




Cocos plumosa as Sidczvalk Tree. 



Palms 



Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one inch deep in 
a hotbed or warm greenhouse ; give pot room as required. 

LiVISTONIA. 

A genus of palms comprising several species all bearing hand- 
some fan-shaped leaves. 

Livistonia australis is hardy as far north as San Francisco. 
Livistonia Chinensis, not being so hardy, should not be planted 
out of doors north of Santa Barbara unless well-sheltered and 
partially shaded. 

Propagate by seeds sown in heat one inch deep, in early 
Spring. When the seedlings are about four inches high, plant 
them in light rich soil in three-inch pots. Transplant them into 
larger pots as the young plants require the space. 




Phoenix Canariensis. 
[197] 



Gardening in California 



Phoenix. 

The Phoenix Canariensis is without doubt the most hardy and 
most popular of the genus, growing well in any garden soil and 
standing considerable exposure to wind. Phoenix reclinata is 
also very popular. It is elegant in habit but not so vigorous a 
grower as the preceding, requiring a sheltered situation away 
from harsh winds and frost. There are several other species such 
as Phoenix rubicoli, Phoenix sylvestris, Phoenix Zelandica, Phoenix 
dactylifera, etc., all fairly hardy and easily grown. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one inch deep in a 
hotbed or in a warm greenhouse. Plant them in three-inch pots 
when the seedlings are about four inches high, and give them more 
room as growth advances. 

Rhapis. 

The Cane Palm of Japan is an elegant dwarf-growing palm 
with cane-like stems and crowns of palmate leaves, admir- 
able for pot culture and for places in rooms or verandas. If 
planted out of doors it should be given a shaded sheltered situ- 
ation free from draughts or cold winds. There are several species 
and varieties of this most interesting palm all worthy of a place 
in any collection. 

Propagation is effected by divison of the roots in early Spring. 

Sabal Palmetto. 

The Cabbage Palm of Florida is another of the fan palms 
which do well in our gardens and should be found in every good 
collection. It is hardy, standing considerable exposure and is 
not particular as to soil. 

There are several species belonging to the genus such as Sabal 
Blackburniana, Sabal Mexicana, Sabal umbraculifera, etc. 

[ 198 1 




Natural Group of Washingtonias (California Fan Palm). 



Palms 



Propagate by sowing the seeds one inch deep, in early Spring, 
in a warm greenhouse ; pot them when four inches high, and give 
them more room both at top and root as required. 

Seaforthia Elegans. 

The Seaforthia is one of the most elegant and free-growing 
of the palm family. From Santa Barbara south it is perfectly 
hardy, ripening its seeds in the open air. 

Propagate by seeds sown one-half inch deep in Spring, the 
seeds starting freely and growing rapidly in a warm greenhouse 
or hotbed; transplant them into three-inch pots when they are 
from four to six inches high and give them more pot room as 
required. 

Washingtonia. 

The well-known California Fan Palm is without doubt the 
stateliest of all our palms whether native or introduced. It 
delights in a good soil, deep and well drained, and a plentiful 
supply of water at the root during the growing season. 

Washingtonia filifera is not recommended for cold exposed 
situations in San Francisco, the Summer being too cold for its 
making vigorous growth, but south of San Francisco and in the 
interior counties as far north as Butte county it is perfectly 
at home and grows vigorously. Washingtonia Sonorea is much 
more hardy, growing well even in San Francisco. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, one-half inch deep 
under glass and kept in pots until one year old; they may then 
be planted in the nursery and left there until large enough to be 
planted in their permanent quarters. 



[ 201 



Gardening in California 



CHAPTER XL 

FERNS, 

IN the formation of a Fernery, a location partially shaded 
and yet not exposed to draughts or harsh winds should be 
selected. 

A situation facing East or a Northerly slope suits the great 
majority of hardy Ferns, and, as they are generally found as 
undergrowth in woods or rocky ledges, on the banks of streams 
or creeks, or in shady spots in marshy ground, these conditions 
should be imitated as closely as possible, a rocky dell shaded with 
deciduous trees being an ideal spot in which to establish a 
Fernery. 

Of course many of the hardier, stronger growers do fairly 
well under practically any tree or in partial shade of almost 
any kind, but a situation, such as has been described, will be 
found from results to be very much the best. 

The decision as to the selection of the site may be influenced 
by whether the intention is to plant the Ferns on the ordinary 
ground level or to have a Rock Fernery. 

If the Ferns are to be planted without introducing rocks or 
stumps, all that is necessary is to see that the soil is of the proper 
character. It should be light, rich and porous, so that water will 
pass through it freely. If the natural soil is heavy loam or of 
a clayey nature, it should either be removed to the depth of one 
foot, and a foot of light soil filled in, or the foot of light soil 
should be spread over the surface of the original ground. 

The very best soil for growing Ferns is composed of one- 
quarter peat, one-quarter sandy loam, one-quarter sharp sand 
and one-quarter leaf-mold, all having been thoroughly mixed 
together a month before being used. 

[ 202 1 




Group of Tree Ferns. 



e r n s 



Should a Rockery effect be desired in conjunction with the 
Fernery, place the rocks (which should be if possible of a porous 
nature) on top of the soil, allowing a layer of soil of at least 
one-half of an inch to lie between each rock; avoid building 
the so-called pockets into the Rockery as this invariably leads to 
sour soil, and sour soil means sickly plants. 

The comfort of the plants should be the first consideration 
and should not be sacrificed to the appearance of the rockwork. 

When the rockwork is finished, the plants should be got 
together and a system of planting laid out. The larger Ferns, 
including the Tree Ferns, should first be arranged and planted; 
afterwards those of medium growth should be placed in their 
positions, and then the smaller and dwarf kinds. 

The best Tree Ferns for the beginner to experiment with are 
the Dicksonia Antartica and the Alsophila australis as they 
are both vigorous growers and are among the noblest and most 
beautiful of any. When planting, set them out in group-form 
irregularly, and from five to ten feet apart; under and among 
them plant such kinds as Woodwardia, the stronger growing 
Asplenium, Folystichum, Lastrea, Polypodium, Osmunda, 
Blechnum Braziliense, Pteris tremula, and also our native Sword 
Fern. Then, to finish the group, plant, near the walk, the 
smaller and dwarf species such as the Five-finger Fern, the Deer 
Fern, Blechnum spicant, Scolopendrum, Adiantum capillus 
veneris, Cystopteris fragilis, Woodsia, etc. 

The most of the foregoing are evergreen, delighting in per- 
petual moisture, and should be given every attention in the way 
of watering, their roots never being allowed to get the least dry. 
During dry weather they should be sprinkled at least once a day 
overhead, water that is not too cold being used; water drawn 
direct from city mains or from artesian wells is much too cold 
for use in sprinkling or watering ferns or other delicately foliaged 
plants. Especially should care be taken in watering the smaller 
kinds which should always be watered with the watering-pot, 

[205] 



Gardening in California 



the water having been aerated and warmed by contact with the 
atmosphere before being used. 

The season for planting is from November until growth com- 
mences, which is generally in February. When planting, see 
that the soil is of the nature recommended; plant moderately 
firm and not too deep. 

Ferns grown in pots require repotting more or less frequently. 
This must be very carefully done, it being remembered that these 
plants make their most luxuriant growth after they have covered 
the inside of the pots with a network of their roots. The repot- 
ting may be done at any season, but early Spring, just before 
growth commences, is regarded as the best season for the work. 
In repotting, see that the pots are clean and dry ; should new pots 
be used, they must be put in water and allowed to remain there a 
sufficiently long time to become thoroughly soaked; they should 
then be well dried before being used. New pots absorb great 
quantities of water, and, unless the)^ are well soaked before being 
used, it often happens that the first two or three waterings, 
instead of watering the roots of the plant, serve to only soak the 
pot, while the balls of earth, which the pots contain, become so 
dry that it is difficult to again get them moistened. When pre- 
paring pots, see that the proper amount of drainage is put in. 
First place one piece of broken potsherd over the hole in the 
bottom of the pot, then fill the pot about one-fifth of its depth 
with clean, broken potsherds; cover this drainage material with 
moss to keep the soil from mixing with it. The soil should con- 
sist of two parts sandy fibrous loam, one part of leaf-mold and 
one part of peat with enough coarse sharp sand to keep the whole 
open and porous. 



206 



*T1 



s 

a- 



>3 




Bamboos and Grasses 



CHAPTER XII. 



BAMBOOS AND GRASSES. 



THE Bamboo is a general favorite with all lovers of beauty 
of form in plant life. It is an evergreen indigenous plant 
belonging to the grass family. The Bamboo delights in a 
light, rich soil, a well-sheltered situation and plenty of water at the 
roots during the growing season, but stagnant water is fatal to it. 
The bank of a perennial stream and the side of a sheltered lake or 
pool, where the crowns are planted a foot or two above the water 
level, are ideal spots for the growing of the Bamboo, while a good 
mulching of well-rotted manure once a year encourages the plants 
to send up strong and graceful stems. The more sheltered they 
are from wind the better; especially must they be protected 
from our strong Summer west winds. A background of our 
native Pinus insignis or any deep-green tree or shrub, shows off 
the Bamboo to very good advantage, or, if a more graceful com- 
bination is desired, the Bamboo can be mixed with the Birch, and 
the effect will be most pleasing, especially if the golden-stemmed 
Bambusa aurea is used and the group is a large one. 

In planting the Bamboo in groups, it is inadvisable to plant 
the strong rampant growers, such as Arundinaria metake, etc., 
along with the more flexible Phyllostachys henonis or any of 
the non-suckering species, as the spreading rhizomes of the 
strong growers will run into the roots of the more delicate 
kinds, rob them of their required sustenance and eventually 
starve them to death. 

For single specimens on the lawn in sheltered nooks, the 
Arundinaria falcata is one of the most graceful; it grows to 
the height of about twenty feet, each stem drooping gracefully 
from the center and forming a very pleasing effect. 

[209] 



Gardening in California 



The Bambusa family is divided into several sections. The 
Arundinaria has a straight round stem which the branches nearly 
encircle. These appear simultaneously along the whole length 
of the stem, and at each joint, the sheaths of the young branches 
being carried until late in the season, this giving a rather unkempt 
appearance to the plant; Arundinaria Simonii and Arundinaria 
Japonica seem to carry t^em much longer than the other species. 

The Phyllostachys, on the contrary, begin to open their 
branches at the lower end of the stem and gradually develop 
them upwards. The Phyllostachys also, instead of having a per- 
fectly round stem, have a double furrow along the stem, this 
being caused by the pressure of the branches against the stem 
while in a soft state. 

Propagate by division of the roots and by cuttings. The best 
time to propagate the Bamboo by division of the roots, which is 
a very simple process, is in the end of March. The plants should 
be taken up and divided into small clumps of two or three stems 
each with their jointed roots attached (there being left as much 
earth around the roots as possible) and planted about two feet 
apart, in good, fresh, light loamy soil. They should be given a 
good watering and a mulching with half-rotted manure. They 
may be planted at once where they are to remain. 

Propagation by cuttings is effected by taking up the under- 
ground stems, or rhizomes as they are called, in March or April, 
cutting them into lengths of from six to eight inches, planting 
them in light sandy loam, about four inches deep, and giving them 
water as required. See that only roots of the previous year's 
growth are used as all older rhizomes will be failures, only the 
young rhizomes being reproductive. 

Among the species which thrive well and are perfectly hardy 
may be mentioned the Arundinaria falcata, Arundinaria 
Hindsii, Arundinaria Simonii, Arundinaria Japonica, Phyllos- 
tachys amea, Phyllostachys henonis, Phyllostachys nigra, 
Bambusa Marmorea, Bambusa quadrangularis, and Bambusa 

[210] 




Bamboos. 



Bamboos and Grasses 



palmata while many others are worthy of a choice place in our 
gardens. 

Groups of Mixed Grasses, 

Very pretty combinations can be made by planting mixed 
grasses; for instance, by planting one or more of the Bamboos in 
the center of the group, with a line of the stately Arundo donax 
and Arundo conspicua alternately around the Bamboos, and, 
in front of and around the Arundo plants, a line of the Pampas 
Grasses, then, in front of and around the Pampas Grasses, a row 
of Eulalia Japonica and its varieties intermixed perhaps with 
Erianthus ravennse, finishing the group with Orchard Grasses 
and Feather Grass (Stipa permata). 

. ■ Other and smaller groups can be planted, leaving out the 
stronger growing, or handsome groups can be formed, leaving 
out the dwarf growers, or again, a carpet can be made of the 
dwarf forms, planting the taller growers a few feet apart and 
allowing the character of the smaller species to be seen between 
the stems of the Bamboos or Arundos. 

Pampas Grass. 

This fine plant is so well known that it requires no descrip- 
tion, for at least one or two plants are to be found in every gar- 
den of any pretension, and yet it is worthy of better treatment 
than it often receives. It should be given a deep good soil well- 
enriched with manure, a sheltered situation and plenty of water 
during the Summer months; under these conditions the reward 
will be a great mass of graceful foliage and a splendid group of 
noble plumes in the early Fall. 

Propagate by dividing the roots in February or March. 

Several garden varieties have been raised, some with pink 
plumes, which are very effective. 

[213] 



Gardening in California 



Arundo. 

Tall perennial bamboo-like grasses growing, in good soil and 
suitable situation, to the height of twenty-five feet, the stems 
being upright in habit with broad leaves which droop hand- 
somely. All of the species are highly ornamental either when 
planted as single specimens on the lawn or when grouped in 
masses with bamboos or with other ornamental grasses. 

The Arundo delights in a light rich soil, a sheltered situation 
and plenty of water at the roots during the growing season. 
Arundo donax and its variegated variety and Arundo conspicua 
will be found the most useful of the genus. 

Propagation is effected by divison of the roots in early 
Spring. 

EuLALIA JaPONICA. 

This is one of the most handsome of the grass family and 
grows to the height of from four to six feet, topped with a 
feathery plume which is very ornamental. 

It forms an excellent border plant and is also well-suited for 
grouping with other grasses such as the Pampas grass or the tall 
Arundo donax. 

It is easily increased by division of the roots in Spring. 

There are several varieties of the Eulalia, some of them with 
striped cream-colored bands running through the middle of the 
leaves, and others with bars of yellow running crosswise. 



[214] 




Pampas Grass. 



Succulents 



CHAPTER XIII. 

SUCCULENTS. 

THE Succulents include many very handsome and interest- 
ing plants, extremely varied in their character, most of 
them having thick fleshy leaves or stems. Many are useful 
for planting in dry sandy or rocky banks, and for covering, with 
gay colors and interesting foliage, poor spots of dry soil which are 
out of reach of water or too barren to sustain any other class of 
plant. Among the large number which are perfectly hardy and 
very ornamental are many of the Cactus, Agave and the large 
family of Mesembryanthemum and Portulaca, also the gorgeous 
free-flowering Crassula, etc. 

Collections of Succulents should be planted in the dryest and 
best-sheltered portions of the garden. They should be watered 
very sparingly during only very dry weather, and even then only 
when the plants show signs of flagging or wilting. The soil best 
suited for most of them is a dry, rocky, well-drained, loose, light 
loam such as is used in rockeries, for growing in which most of 
the Succulents are admirably adapted. 

Agave {Century F I ant). 

This common inhabitant of our gardens is one of the most 
stately and characteristic of our California garden landscape 
plants, its massive fleshy foliage, when full-grown, making a fine 
effect in the sub-tropical gardens, and being excellent for large 
vase-work in front of buildings or the decoration of terrace walks, 
etc. It is a very slow grower, not attaining its full growth until 
fifteen or twenty years old, when (and not until then) it sends 
up its tall column-like flower-scape to the height of from thirty- 
five to forty feet, or more, with a diameter of stem of over six 

[217] 



Gardening in Californi 



inches at the base. The flower-scape makes a growth of six 
inches every twenty-four hours, drawing its sustenance seem- 
ingly from the thick large fleshy leaves. As the flower-stalk 
grows in height, the leaves gradually become thin and flabby until 
the flower-scape attains its full height, when the leaves are com- 
pletely drained of all sap and flesh and become shriveled, lifeless 
pieces of fibre, all the life and sap having been taken up and used 
by the plant in forming its wonderful flower-stalk. After per- 
fecting the flower, and ripening its seeds, the whole plant dies to 
the ground and is succeeded by a colony of suckers which form 
about the roots of the old plant. These should be taken up late 
in the Fall and planted in nursery rows about a foot or eighteen 
inches apart, and should be grown on until large enough to be 
planted out in permanent quarters. There is quite a large number 
of interesting species belonging to this genus, some of them with 
variegated leaves and others with rosette-like bunches of leaves 
and of dwarf habit. 

Aloes. 

These interesting plants are 
mostly natives of the Cape of Good 
Hope, some of them becoming ar- 
borescent and branched, and grow- 
ing to the height of sixty feet. They 
delight in a loose rocky soil and a 
warm sunny situation, and require 
little artificial irrigation. 

They are mostly of very slow 
growth although Aloe ciliaris makes 
several feet of growth in a sea- 
son. Most of them bear red or 
yellow flowers in stiff spikes, which, 
combined with their rugged gro- 
tesque habit, make them excellent for planting in dry rock- 
eries, etc. [218] 




Aloe vera. 



Succulents 



Propagate in early Spring by seeds, suckers or cuttings; 
cover the seeds to a depth of one-quarter of an inch. 

Cactus, 

This most interesting genus contains many hardy species, 
and collections should be seen in our gardens more commonly 
than they are. Most of them are of easy culture, provided they 
are not excessively watered, or planted in a too adhesive soil. 
They all prefer a warm dry sunny situation and a light sandy 
soil well drained ; the soil should also contain a small percentage 
of lime; mixing a quantity of lime-rubbish with the soil not 
only gives the soil the necessary amount of lime but also serves 
as a drainage medium. 

The Cereus type contains many of the most gorgeously-col- 
ored and largest-sized flowers of the genus. 

The Echinocactus, with their prickly oval or round-shaped 
ribbed grotesque forms make excellent specimens for the rock- 
ery or desert garden. 

The Mamillarias with their beautiful forms, their rosy, yel- 
low or white flowers and their delicate designs are indispensable 
in all collections. 

The Opuntia, or Indian Fig, or Prickly Pear, is the most 
common and also the easiest to grow of all the Cactus family. 
It is well known throughout the State both as an ornamental and 
a hedge plant for which purpose it is exceedingly useful, as 
no animal, however hardy, will attempt to break through it on 
account of the strong sharp spines which the plant sends out in 
all directions. 

The Phylocactus is known by its flat leaves, its long calyx 
tubes and large gorgeously-colored or white flowers. 

Several of the genus are natives of California, among which 
may be mentioned Mamillaria Goodrichii, Mamillaria Grahamii, 
Echinocactus viridescens, Echinocactus polycephalius, Cereus 

[219] 



Gardening in California 



Emoryii, Cereus giganteus, Opuntia litoralis, Opuntia facus- 
indica, Opuntia prolifora, etc. 

The Cactus is propagated most commonly by cuttings late 
in Spring. The cuttings should be removed with a sharp knife, 
and laid in a dry place until bleeding stops and the wounds are 
dried. They should then be inserted in sand until they emit roots 
when they may be planted in their permanent places. 



Cotyledon {Echeveria). 

A genus of succulent herbs or shrubs, 
comprising about sixty species most of 
them natives of California, Mexico and 
Southern Africa. They are useful in for- 
mal bedding, and for rockwork where little 
or no artificial irrigation is given. A very 
interesting and effective rockwork is that 
planted with the different kinds of Coty- 
ledons, Sempervivums, Mesembryanthe- 
mums, Sedums, Crassulas, etc., and, as 
these all grow and bloom profusely with- 
out artificial watering, many waste spots, 
which otherwise might be left to weeds 
and litter, can thus be made attractive. 
The Cotyledons are very easily propagated by cuttings made 
from the stems in September. Strip them of leaves for about 
two inches, and, after cutting the ends with a sharp knife, insert 
them in sandy soil in a sunny situation, giving them very little 
water until they have formed roots which will be in two or three 
weeks. They may also be propagated by leaf cuttings, by simply 
parting the individual full-grown leaves from the stem, care 
being taken when parting them that the dormant bud at the axil 
of each leaf accompanies it. Insert them in sandy soil, about one- 
quarter of an inch deep, and give them a little water for two weeks 

[ 220 ] 




Echcveria. 



Succulents 



or until they have formed roots. If the cuttings are put in in 
September or early in October, they will be ready for setting out 
the following Spring. 

Crassula. 

This beautiful succulent from 
Table Mountain is one of the best 
plants for planting on rocky hill- 
sides or ledges as it grows freely 
without care or watering if given a 
handful of soil in which to start. 
Plant the young plants early in Feb- 
ruary and give them a little water to 
settle the soil about the roots; they 
afterwards will take care of them- 
selves. 

When planted on a sunny slope 
(preferably facing the East) in loose, 
well-drained soil, with a background 

of low-growing, dark foliage, such as dwarf Pine, Cypress or 
Juniper, it is very effective as it also is in the rockery among 
other succulents, such as the large-leaved Echeverias and Sedums 
or the smaller Mesembryanthemum. 

There are many species of this interesting genus, including 
Crassula arborescens which grows to the height of three feet and 
has rose-colored flowers, and Crassula coccinea, the best known 
of the species, bearing scarlet flowers of a most dazzling hue 
which entirely cover the plant. Others bearing white flowers 
are also very pretty. 

Propagate by cuttings, placed in sandy loam in a cold frame, 
in September; give them just enough water to keep the leaves 
from wilting. 




Crassula coccinea. 



[221 ] 



Gardening in California 



Mesembryanthemum. 




M esenihryanthcmum spcctabilis. 



A genus of over three hun- 
dred species, mostly succulent 
perennials or annuals which 
make excellent plants for cover- 
ing dry banks or borders, and, 
where water is scarce, and where 
they are not likely to be tram- 
pled over, a good substitute for 
grass, many species being of a 
creeping spreading habit, hug- 
ging the ground closely and 
forming a carpet of rich green. 
Mesembryanthemum spectabilis 
and Mesembryanthemum versi- 
color are chiefly grown for the blaze of color they give during 
sunshine. Mesembryanthemum sequilaterale, Mesembryanthe- 
mum australis, etc., are mostly used for covering rocky banks, 
sand flats, and slopes, etc. 

The Mesembryanthemum is not used so freely as it ought 
to be. Many waste pieces of ground, dry shifting steep slopes, 
railroad embankments, etc., now of a neglected, unkempt appear- 
ance, could be planted with any of the stronger-growing, thick- 
leaved species of this genus which, in addition to making a 
covering for the ground, would hold the slopes or embankments 
from sliding or from being moved by the elements. Mesembry- 
anthemum australis (white-flowered) is the best for this purpose 
as it is a hardy, strong grower and a deep rooter, forming a 
dense, thick carpet of heavy stems difficult to move or wash out 
of position. 

Propagate by inserting cuttings, in Spring, about six inches 
apart, where they are to bloom, or where wanted, first preparing 
the ground by cultivating (either by plowing or spading) and 

[ 222 ] 



Succulents 



raking it over to make it smooth on the surface, breaking any 
lumps which may be left, so that, in planting, the dibble may be 
worked easily and quickly. 




Sedu) 



Sedum. 

Sedum is a genus of 
over one hundred species 
most of them with fleshy 
leaves and yellow, white or 
pink flowers, although one 
or two, such as Sedum 
sempervivum, have scarlet 
flowers. Sedums are of 
very easy culture, prefer- 
ring a light sandy soil and 

a sunny situation and being exceedingly useful for covering 
dry banks and rocky ridges away from the hose or in the thinnest 
soils. They are also effective for window-boxes or for carpet- 
bedding. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in sandy soil in a sunny shel- 
tered situation in Spring, or by seeds sown in February. Cover 
the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch. When the seed- 
lings are an inch or two high, prick them off, two inches apart, 
in pots or boxes, planting them in their permanent places in May. 

Sempervivum {Houseleek). 

A genus comprising fifty or sixty species, natives of Madeira, 
Asia Minor, Abyssinia, and the Western Himalayas, bearing 
white, pink, yellow or purplish flowers and thick fleshy leaves, 
useful in carpet-bedding and for small rockwork. 

Propagate by offsets taken from the parent plant in early 
Spring and planted in any sunny situation, in light sandy soil, 
about two inches apart. 

[223] 



Gardening in California 



CHAPTER XIV. 

herbaceous and bedding plants. 

Acanthus. 

THE Acanthus is a group of stately ornamental plants of 
vigorous growth and handsome foliage. To grow well, 
they require rich, deep soil well-fertilized with old manure, 
and plenty of water during the Summer months. They show their 
character best when grown in single tufts, at the bend of a walk, 
on a bed of turf and in a sheltered, half-shaded situation. Acan- 
thus mollis latifolius. Acanthus nigra, Acanthus spinosus and sev- 
eral other species are all very desirable for giving tropical effects 
in Summer or Winter, 

Propagate by dividing the roots or by seeds sown in Spring, 
under glass in gentle heat, covering the seeds to the depth of an 
eighth of an inch. Pot the young seedlings singly when they are 
an inch or two high, and plant them out of doors when they are 
three or four inches high. 

Acroclinium. 

A small genus of hardy annuals, bearing everlasting flowers 
of many shades of rose and white. They are very easily grown in 
any garden soil. 

Sow the seeds out of doors in April, in patches where they are 
to bloom, covering the seeds to the depth of about one-eighth of 
an inch; when the young seedlings are two or three inches high, 
thin them to six inches apart and mulch the surface with one-half 
inch of old well-decomposed manure, giving water when 
necessary. 

[224] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



Ageratum. 



This well-known Summer-flow- 
ering plant is a general favorite on 
account of its pretty blue flowers 
and long-continued season of pro- 
fuse blooming. A good light loam 
well-enriched with old manure will 
grow it well. Plant the dwarf vari- 
eties six inches apart, and the tall 
species about fifteen inches apart. 

Propagate by cuttings in Sep- 
tember, in a cold frame or green- 
house ; in Winter protect them from 
frost; plant them out of doors as 
soon as the danger from cold 
weather is over. 

Agrostema 




Aseratum. 



Hardy evergreen perennials and annuals with lance-shaped 
leaves and star-shaped flowers. They are of easy culture, grow- 
ing freely in any soil and (being mostly natives of Southern 
Europe) requiring little water. They are also well adapted for 
ornamenting dry banks if planted after the first rains in Autumn. 
Seeds of the annual species should be sown in August in a cold 
frame or in a sheltered border ; barely cover the seeds with finely 
sifted sandy soil; plant them out in October and they will begin 
flowering in April. The perennial species, such as Agrostema 
coronaria, are increased by division of the roots, the early Winter 
being the best season for their division. 



[225] 



Gardening in California 

Althoea rosea {Hollyhock). 

The Hollyhock is one of our old favorite garden plants, 
indispensable for producing bold striking color effects in our 
flower-borders and shrubberies. It delights in a rich light soil 
and an open sunny situation. 

Seeds should be sown as soon as ripe, in September or early 
in October, either in an open sheltered spot out of doors or in 
a cold frame, being covered to the depth of a quarter of an inch. 
As soon as the seedlings are large enough to be handled, prick 
them out about three inches apart in boxes, or singly in three- 
inch pots, in light rich soil composed of one-quarter very old 
manure, one-half good surface loam and one-quarter leaf-mold 
with enough sand to keep the soil open, all well-mixed together 
by having been turned over several times. Plant them out, 
where they are to bloom, in February or early in March, in 
specially prepared, well-cultivated soil enriched with well- 
decajed manure, the ground having been dug two feet deep and 
the manure mixed freely with the soil. When the flower-spikes 
appear, mulch the ground about the roots with a heavy dressing 
of half-rotten manure and support the flower-stalk by a good 
stiff stake eight feet long by two inches square tapering to one 
inch square at the top, the stake being sharpened and driven two 
feet into the ground. The roots should be given a fair supply of 
water but over-watering must be guarded against, as too much 
water seems to encourage the Hollyhock fungus, a disease which 
has ruined many fine plants. Should this disease make its ap- 
pearance, pick off the affected leaves at once and burn them up 
to prevent it spreading. 

The Hollyhock, in addition to being propagated by seeds, 
may be increased by cuttings of the young shoots which grow 
up from the old root. These should be taken off when about 
three or four inches long, and placed in a shady sheltered spot, 
in soil composed of sand and leaf-mold, until rooted, when 
they may be treated as recommended for seedlings. 

[226] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



Alyssum. 

A genus of hardy annuals or shrubby perennials, very free- 
flowering and excellent for planting on dry banks and among 
hardy shrubs, for covering the ground, or for rock work. Alys- 
sum alpestris, or Sweet Alyssum, is raised by simply sowing the 
seeds, in Winter or early Spring, where wanted, covering them 
lightly with light soil ; thin the plants to about six inches apart. 
Alyssum saxatile, and other shrubby species, are best propagated 
by cuttings placed in a cold frame in September and shaded for 
about two weeks, or until rooted, when they should be gradually 
exposed to light and air and placed out of doors until wanted. 

Amaranthus. 

Hardy annuals with alternate entire leaves and small red or 
green flowers in clustered spikes. They are mostly grown for 
their handsome reddish-colored leaves and graceful habit of 
growth. They require rich soil, a sheltered situation and a gen- 
erous supply of water to develop their full beauty. Amaranthus 
bicolor, Amaranthus salicifolius, and Amaranthus tricolor will 
be found among the best species for general planting. 

Propagate by seeds sown in February, in slight bottom heat, 
in a glass frame. Cover the seeds to the depth of an eighth of 
an inch. 

Anemone. 

An extensive genus of hardy ornamental perennials with 
ranunculus-like flowers and variously-shaped leaves, some species 
(such as Anemone Japonica) growing to a height of three or 
four feet, and others (such as Anemone hepatica) growing only 
a few inches high. Some are suitable for borders, while others 
(such as Anemone coronaria) are best grown in beds of rich 
light soil, in a sheltered, partially-shaded situation. The 
tuberous-rooted species should be planted in October or early in 

[227] 



Gardening in California 



November, about six inches apart and three inches deep, and 
if, in addition, there is planted a carpet of Pansies, or, better 
still, of the blue-flowering Arabis, a most charming effect will be 
produced. After flowering and as soon as the leaves turn yellow, 
the tubers should be taken up and spread thinly in a shady airy 
place until they are dry, when the leaves should be taken off the 
tubers, and the tubers stored, in a cool dry place, in boxes of dry 
soil until the planting season. 

Anemone fuljens is a perennial species and prefers a moist 
situation and partial shade, but does well under any ordinary 
garden treatment. Anemone Japonica makes an admirable 
border plant, easily grown and propagated by division of the 
root. For cutting purposes this species and its white variety are 
invaluable. 

Antirrhinum {Snap-dragon). 

This popular genus contains many species, but Antirrhinum 
majus is the most popular and useful, its long racemes of many- 
colored flowers being excellent for filling beds, for decorating the 
herbaceous borders, or for planting among low-growing shrubs. 
Their cultivation is easy, as they grow well in any garden soil. 

They are easily propagated either by seeds or cuttings, but 
the simplest way is by sowing a packet of seeds in early March 
under glass, covering the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an 
inch; prick out the young seedlings, as soon as they are fit to 
be handled, three inches apart in boxes, placing the boxes in a 
cold frame and shading for a few days. After they are hardened 
off, they are ready to be planted in their permanent quarters. 

The seeds may be sown out of doors, in a sheltered spot, in 
early Fall, and thinned to six inches apart, or transplanted to 
where they are to remain, and, if a succession of bloom is de- 
sired, another lot may be sown in April and treated as recom- 
mended for those sown in Fall. 

[228] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



AguiLEGiA {Columbine). 

Erect, hardy perennial herbs, flowering in panicles. The 
Columbines love a semi-shaded situation, well-sheltered from 
harsh winds and strong sunshine, preferably under the shelter 
of low-growing deciduous shrubs. They also do well in the open 
ground, but under these conditions their flowers lack the delicate 
tinting of those grown in the light shade ; any soil not too heavy, 
if well drained, will suit them. 

Seeds are produced in abundance, and should be sown, 
covered to the depth of one-eighth of an inch, in the Fall (or 
as soon as practicable after they are ripe) in a shady place con- 
venient to water; as soon as they are strong enough to be re- 
moved, they should be planted where they are to flower. 

There are many handsome species including our native 
species, Aquilegia chrysantha (yellow tinged with red), Aquilegia 
caerulea from the Rocky Mountains (sky blue) and Aquilegia 
glandulosa, etc., all of them well deserving a place in our gardens. 

Aster. 

The Chinese Annual Asters are too well known to require 
description, their diversity of color and compact habit of growth 
rendering them almost universal favorites. They delight in a 
cool moist loamy soil enriched with well-decomposed horse- or 
cow-manure. 

The seeds should be sown, early in March, either out of doors 
or under glass, in pans, pots or boxes in light sandy soil, and 
covered very lightly with sandy leaf-mold; water lightly and 
keep the soil moderately moist until they germinate; as soon as 
they make an inch of growth prick them out, about three inches 
apart, in light rich soil and grow them on until they are about four 
inches high; harden them off in a sheltered place out of doors, 
and plant them about one foot apart where they are to flower; 

[229] 



Gardening in California 



about two weeks after they have been planted, mulch the entire 
surface of the soil, between the plants, with about one-half inch of 
rotten manure and give a good watering. To produce fine flowers, 
the Aster should never suffer for lack of water and should receive 
a good drenching at least once a week; should extra large 
flowers be desired, the flowers should be thinned to about five or 
six to a plant, and the plant supported by a neat stake. 

AUBRIETIA DeLTOIDES. 

Where a dense cushion effect of deep blue is desired in early 
Spring, procure a packet of Aubrietia seeds and sow in the open 
where they are to flower, covering the seeds very lightly; 
September is the best time to sow. As soon as the seedlings are 
well up, thin them to three inches apart and encourage them by 
watering, never allowing the soil to become very dry. They may 
also be sown in September in a cold frame, and transplanted in 
November or December to where they are to bloom. Where 
there is a stock of old plants they may be propagated by cuttings 
any time after flowering. There are several varieties, all of them 
very useful for carpet effects in early Spring. 

Begonia. 

A large genus of succulent 
herbs with tuberous or fibrous roots 
and showy flowers or leaves. Most 
of the richly-colored flowers and 
handsomely-marked leaves are the 
result of hybridizing by specialists, 
who have, by cross-fertilizing and 
high cultivation, succeeded in rais- 
ing the Begonia to the high estima- 
tion in which it is now held for in- 
door and outdoor decoration. The 
^ hardier varieties of the tuberous 

Begonia vcrnon. 

[230I 




Herbaceous and Beddinor Plants 



section, and also the Vernon types, make excellent plants for 
bedding, and the tall stately Begonia rubra, if given a sheltered 
position, forms grand specimens, especially in our coast counties. 
The Begonia requires a light rich loamy soil and plenty of 
moisture at the root during the growing season ; as soon as flower- 
ing is over, the tuberous-rooted species should be taken up, the 
tubers cleaned and dried in a cool airy shed, and afterwards 
packed in dry soil and laid away in a cool place until March, 
when they should be potted singly, in pots a little larger than the 
tubers, in soil composed of one-third loam, one-third leaf-mold, 
and one-third sand with a sprinkling of old manure mixed 
through the compost. Place the pots in a cool frame, and, when 
the young plants make from four to six inches of growth, plant 
them out where they are to flower. The Vernon type is propa- 
gated by seeds sown and covered very lightly with finely sifted 
sandy leaf-mold, in February, the young plants being pricked 
out three inches apart in pots or boxes as soon as they are large 
enough to be handled, and planted out, about the first of May, 
where wanted to bloom. They may also be easily increased by 
dividing the roots of the previous year's growth just before 
growth commences in the Spring. 

Bellis (Daisy). 

The Bellis perennis or common Daisy is a well-known hardy 
free-flowering border plant, growing well in any garden soil and 
easily increased by simply dividing the roots immediately after 
flowering, each crown making a separate plant. It may also be 
raised from seeds, but as a large percentage of seeds obtained 
are single-flowered, it is much safer and more satisfactory to 
propagate by dividing the roots. In propagating from seeds, the 
seeds should be covered to the depth of an eighth of an inch. 



[231 ] 



Gardening in Californi 



BOCCONIA. 

A genus of tall, stately, herbaceous, ornamental-leaved plants 
with terminal panicles of inconspicuous flowers; an excellent 
plant for giving subtropical effects in conjunction with other 
large-leaved plants, or as single specimens on the lawn. To grow 
their handsome cordate leaves to their full size requires a deep, 
rich soil and abundance of water. 

Propagate by taking up, in early Spring, the young suckers 
which form about the roots, and planting them in nursery rows 
until the following season. They are also easily propagated by 
seeds sown in Spring in a sheltered spot in the open border; cover 
the seeds to the depth of one-quarter of an inch. Bocconia cordata 
(from Japan), Bocconia frutescens (from Mexico) and Bocconia 
integrifolia (a native of Peru) will be found the best species for 
growing in this latitude. 

Calandrinia. 

A genus of fleshy smooth-stemmed annuals or perennials 
mostly natives of Australia, Chile and California. Their culti- 
vation is very simple and they grow freely in any soil or exposure 
not too much shaded, while they are excellent for covering 
waste places with color until early Summer. 

Sow the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep, where they are 
to remain, as soon as the Fall rains have moistened the soil; 
should the seeds germinate very thickly, thin out to six inches 
apart. Unless birds or insects pick up the seeds they will re- 
seed the ground and come up again the following season. 

Calendula. 

Hardy annuals which may be had in bloom every month of 
the year by making three sowings, one in January, the next in 

[232] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



May and the third in August or early in September. A spot in 
the open ground will suit them, and, when the young plants are 
a few inches high, they should be planted where they are to 
flower, or the seeds may be sown, about one-eighth of an inch 
deep, where they are to bloom, and thinned to one foot apart. 
At the time of thinning, give the surface of the ground a mulch 
of half an inch of well-rotted manure; this will encourage their 
growth and produce larger and finer flowers. 

Campanula. 

The Campanulas are among 
our most showy perennial or bi- 
ennial plants; all of them are 
elegant when in bloom and 
should be seen more commonly 
than they are. The stately Cam- 
panula pyramidalis, which often 
grows from eight to ten feet 
high, forms grand pyramids of 
blue or white; Campanula media 
(Canterbury bells) is among the 
best of our border plants, and 
the dwarf-spreading Campanula 
carpathica and its varieties are 

also very desirable border plants. They delight in a deep rich 
loam well drained; a mulching of old manure helps to keep the 
soil cool during the Summer months and assists in conserving 
moisture. The tall-growing kinds should have their flower- 
stalks supported by neat stakes painted green so as to show as 
little as possible. 

All of the species are easily raised from seeds sown a 
quarter of an inch deep in early Spring, out of doors or in a 
frame, and again in the Fall, giving a succession of bloom 
throughout the year. 

[233] 




Campanula carpathica. 



Gardening in California 



Canna {Indian Shot). 

A large genus of hardy herbaceous 
perennials, extensively employed in beds 
and flower-borders, their handsome 
banana-like leaves and many-colored 
flowers in stately spikes giving fine 
tropical effects in Summer gardening. 
Few plants are more easily grown, but to 
do well, they require a rich deep soil and 
plenty of water at the root. Before 
planting, the soil should be trenched two 
spades deep and freely mixed with half- 
rotten horse-manure. The plants should 
be set out about two feet apart; if in 
beds, the taller varieties should be 
planted in the middle and the dwarf kinds on the outside. A 
partially-sheltered sunny spot should be selected, as harsh winds 
rip the foliage and damage the flowers. 

Propagation is easily effected by dividing the roots; each 
rootstock with bud and roots attached will make an independent 
plant. Divide the roots, and plant new beds as soon as growth 
commences in Spring, generally late in March or early in April. 
They may also be propagated from seeds sown in the early 
Spring and covered to the depth of half an inch, 

Celosia. 




Canna indica. 



A genus of crested or pyramidal flowering plants much used 
in bedding or for planting in groups or singly in flower borders. 
The crested forms are dwarf, and form cockscomb-like heads, 
sometimes nine inches long, and, in fine specimens, as much as 
four inches broad. Those of bushy or pyramidal form are grace- 
ful and open in habit, and grow, in fine specimens, from four to 

[234] 



Herbaceous and Beddingr Plants 



six feet high. The Celosias delight in a warm sunny situation 
and a deep rich soil not too heavy. 

They are propagated by seeds sown in March, in a gentle 
heat, and covered to the depth of an eighth of an inch. When 
they are two inches high, pot them singly in three-inch pots and 
return them to a house or hotbed until they form fresh roots in 
the new soil, when they should be moved to a cold frame and 
gradually hardened off by being given a free circulation of air. 
Plant them, about the beginning of May, where they are to 
bloom. 

Centaurea (^Cornflower). 

This well-known genus is easily grown in any garden soil 
by simply sowing the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep, in the 
open ground, in March, where wanted to bloom, and thinning 
the plants to six inches apart; after thinning, mulch the ground 
about the plants with half an inch of old manure and give a 
good watering. 

Centaurea rugusina, the woolly-leaved species, is better 
treated by sowing the seeds in a gentle heat, in February, and, 
when large enough to be handled, pricking them off in boxes 
three inches apart. Harden them off gradually and plant them 
in the open ground early in May. This species also may be 
propagated by cuttings in September or October. 

Cheiranthus {Wallflower). 

Biennial or perennial herbs. These much admired Spring 
flowers will thrive almost anywhere and with little attention, 
by simply sowing the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep, where 
they are to bloom, in October or November, and thinning the 
plants when two or three inches high, to six inches apart, but, 
where fine spikes of either single or double varieties are desired, 
the seeds should be sown in August in a cold frame, and, when 

[235] 



Gardening in California 



large enough to be handled, the seedlings should be planted, three 
inches apart, in boxes filled with light soil, and transplanted to 
their blooming quarters early in November. This treatment 
will bring them into flower early in April. 

Chrysanthemum 

This hardy and important Fall-blooming plant is a favorite 
with all plant lovers, and, to grow to perfection, requires con- 
siderable care and skill, but good results may easily be had 
by ordinary garden treatment if the soil is deep and well-enriched 
by a generous allowance of rotted manure. 

It is propagated by cuttings, by suckers or by dividing the 
roots in March or April. Cuttings should be inserted in a gentle 
heat, or in a cold frame kept close and shaded for a few days; 
as soon as they are rooted, they should be potted in three-inch 
pots and returned to the frame, being shaded until they make 
fresh roots, when they should be given plenty of air and kept 
close to the glass, care being taken that they never once suffer for 
want of water. Plant them where they are to bloom, early in 
May or as soon as they have made six inches of growth. 

The young shoots should have their points pinched off to 
encourage the stems to branch; this operation should be 
repeated once a month until August 1st. Plant them about 
two feet apart; after planting, mulch the entire surface of 
the beds or borders with half-rotted horse-manure and give the 
ground a thorough soaking with water. Chrysanthemums require 
enormous quantities of water, care being taken, however, not to 
sour the soil by giving too much. In the hot dry districts of the 
State they should be planted, if possible, on a northern exposure 
or partially shaded during the Summer months. 

The Chrysanthemum is divided into many sections including 
the incurved (whose strap-shaped florets curve inward), the re- 
curved (whose florets curve outward from the center), the 

[236] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



Anemone (or grilled form), the Pompone (or small-flowered) 
and the fringed Japanese or ragged section. The Pompone and 
the recurved are considered the most satisfactory for outdoor 
bedding as they are more free-flowering and not so easily dam- 
aged by Fall winds or wet weather. When the young plants are 
about twelve inches high, a neat stake should be placed at each 
stem, and the stems tied to the stakes, as they need the support. 

Cineraria. 



The Cineraria is one of our gayest 
early-Spring flowers, and, as it is so 
easily grown, should be more com- 
monly seen than it is. It thrives in 
any soil, flowering most freely in any 
district which is free from frost, and, 
if planted under the shade of trees 
where there is a little protection, it 
grows freely and blooms constantly 
from January to July. 

The Cineraria prefers a light 
sandy soil well enriched with old 
manure. Propagation is effected by 
seeds, sown in June, in a cold frame 

or in a shaded spot out of doors. As the seeds are very small, 
the surface soil, on which the seeds are to be sown, should be 
sifted leaf-mold, smoothed over and pressed firm. Sow the 
seeds thinly and regularly over the surface and cover them 
lightly with finely sifted soil composed of leaf-mold and sand 




Cineraria hybrida. 



well-mixed together: 



afterwards watering with a fine-rosed 



watering-pot. The seeds should be shaded until they germinate, 
and, when the seedlings are large enough to be handled, they 
should be transplanted to three inches apart, and placed where 
they are to bloom, early in October. An ideal spot for flowering 

[237] 



Gardening in California 

the Cinerarias is under an evergreen tree whose lower branches 
spread over the surface about four feet above the ground. 

Coreopsis. 

This showy annual or perennial herbaceous plant is one of 
our favorite border ornaments, flowering after most of our Sum- 
mer annuals are past blooming and thriving in any good garden 
loam. 

Propagate by sowing the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep, 
either in a frame or in a sheltered place out of doors or where 
they are to bloom. They germinate freely and should be planted 
or thinned to one foot apart; mulch the ground with well-rotted 
manure and give them plenty of water at the root. The peren- 
nials are propagated by dividing the roots in early Spring, plant- 
ing them two feet apart and treating them as recommended for 
the annuals. 

Cosmos. 

This well-known hardy annual is another of our Fall- 
blooming favorites, being much used for cut flowers in decorating 
rooms as it lasts well in water. It thrives in any good garden 
soil, well enriched with manure. 

Propagate by seeds sown in March in a cold frame; cover 
the seeds very lightly with finely sifted sandy leaf -mold. Trans- 
plant them, when two inches high, into boxes, placing them four 
inches apart; plant them in the open early in May, two feet 
apart; mulch the ground well with old manure and water freely 
during the Summer months. 



238] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



Dahlia. 







ttjffil^^^^t '*' 






1 •„"^M|^ P^^K 


^HHH 




m 



Dahlia imperialis. 



The Dahlia is a popular genus of 
only a few species, all natives of 
Mexico. Dahlia variabilis is prob- 
ably the species from which most of 
the show Dahlias have originated, 



while Dahlia Jaurezii is the original 
of the Cactus section, the varieties of 
which have become so popular. As 
Dahlia imperialis is such a late 
bloomer, no varieties of this, of any 
great merit, have as yet been intro- 
duced. 

Dahlias are among the best of our 
Summer and Autumn-flowering 

plants, and are now considered indispensable in garden decora- 
tion, whether the garden is large or small. With care and 
attention they may be had in flower from May until late in 
November. The first planting should be done early in March, 
and a second planting (which should be of Spring-struck 
cuttings) ought to be made about June ist. The first planted 
will bloom from May until late in the Fall, and the second will 
begin flowering in August, continuing in flower, if the old 
flowers are picked off and the small weak shoots thinned out, until 
November. 

To grow the Dahlia well requires good soil not too stiff, well- 
enriched with half- rotted horse- or cow-manure. The ground on 
which the Dahlia is to be grown should be trenched two spades 
deep, the manure being freely mixed with the soil. Before 
planting, the ground should be staked off, and the varieties 
grouped according to their color and height, their respective 
positions being fixed, so that, when they come in bloom, the 
whole will be a pleasing blending of color and form. Before 

I 239] 



Gardening in California 



planting also, the soil, immediately about where the young plants 
are to be set, should be freely stirred to the depth of a foot; after 
planting, give the soil a good soaking of water and tie the young 
stems to temporary stakes. As the Dahlia is a gross feeder, 
water must be supplied in abundance about three times a week, 
and, after flowering commences, manure-water should be given 
once every week; this will give greater depth of color and sub- 
stance to the flowers and more vigor to the plants, enabling them 
to make fresh growth and a longer continuance of bloom. 

Propagation is effected by seeds, cuttings or division of the 
roots ; by seeds sown and covered to the depth of a quarter of an 
inch, in February; by cuttings, in March, taken from the young 
shoots which start from the neck of the tubers; by division in 
early Spring before growth commences. Young plants raised 
from cuttings generally give better results. To get good cuttings, 
the tubers should be placed in a frame with a gentle bottom 
heat. Place the tubers about a foot apart over the bed of the 
frame and shake about one inch of soil, composed of half leaf- 
mold and half sand, over the tubers, care being taken that the 
necks of the tubers are not covered; give a light sprinkling of 
water and keep the sash of the frame closed so as to have a warm 
moist atmosphere at all times, while a light sprinkling of water 
should be given once a day. This will be sufficient to induce the 
production of shoots, and each of these may be removed, if 
required, as soon as it has two joints. Place the cuttings in a 
warm frame or hothouse in beds, boxes or pots in leaf-soil and 
sand, where, in about a week or ten days, roots will be formed; 
as soon as rooted they should be potted singly in three-inch pots 
and placed in the same temperature where they should remain 
for two weeks or until they take with the new soil; they should 
then be removed to a cold frame, and gradually exposed to the 
open air. They should be given more pot-room as required, or 
planted out where they are to flower. After the plants are 
finished blooming in the Fall, the tubers should be taken up and 

[240] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



placed in a cool airy shed until they are wanted in Spring. 
Where there are no facilities for propagating by cuttings, the 
tubers may be left in the ground until about March first, when 
they should be taken up and separated singly, allowing one shoot 
to each tuber, and planted where they are to flower. 

Delphinum {Larkspur) . 

A race of hardy ornamental perennials, biennials or annuals 
with tall branching flower-stems and beautiful palmated leaves. 
They are very easily grown, but, if fine flowers are wanted, they 
must be given special attention, while the soil should be deep 
and enriched with old manure well incorporated with the soil. 
They should be planted about three feet apart, and, as soon as 
the shoots attain a height of one foot, a stake must be placed at 
each shoot for its support, as they are easily broken by the winds. 
After flowering, the stalks should be cut down, when the young 
growth will sprout from the base to form flowering shoots for the 
following year. 

Propagate by division of the roots, or by seeds which may 
be sown at any time, when the ground is in order, from October to 
February, the seeds being covered to the depth of a quarter of an 
inch. Division of the roots is much the simplest plan for in- 
creasing them, and early Spring the best season for dividing the 
roots. The annual species (such as the common Larkspur) are 
propagated only by seeds sown in the open where wanted to 
bloom; when the seedlings are three or four inches high, thin 
them to one foot apart and mulch with old manure. 

DiANTHES Caryophyllus {Carnation). 

There are no hardy flowers more deserving general cultivation 
than Carnations, as they present charming diversity of coloring 
with delicious, spicy perfume. They thrive best in a fresh loamy 

[ 241 ] 



Gardening in California 



soil not too heavy, a yellow or brown loam being best suited for 
growing them. 

Propagation is effected by seeds, by cuttings or by layers; by 
seeds, in early Spring, sown in pots or pans in light rich soil 
composed of half sand and half leaf-mold, the seeds being 
covered lightly with the soil. Place in a mild bottom heat, and, 
when the seedlings are about one inch in height, prick them off 
about two inches apart in boxes; then return them to the same 
temperature (a mild hotbed) and shade them during hot sunshine 
for a few days or until the young seedlings have taken root in the 
new soil ; afterwards remove them to a cold frame and gradually 
expose them to the open air. Plant them, about the middle of 
April, where they are to flower, in a sunny situation protected 
from cold winds, in soil which is fresh, not having been used for 
at least a year before in growing flowers of any sort. 

In propagating by cuttings, use only wood which is 
short-jointed and carries strong healthy leaves. Dibble them 
about one inch apart in boxes filled with sandy leaf-mold, and 
place them, in March, in cold frames or in a shaded, sheltered 
spot out of doors. They may also be put in, in a similar situa- 
tion, in September with equally good results. As soon as they 
are rooted, transplant them three inches apart either into boxes or 
into a sheltered border until ready for their permanent quarters. 

Where only a few growths of any desirable variety can be 
had, propagation by layering is perhaps the surest of all 
methods. Layering is effected by simply bending one of the 
branches or shoots into the soil (after, with a sharp knife, having 
cut a slit into the shoot on the underside, about half through the 
stem) and, with a hooked peg, pegging it into the ground about 
one-half inch below the surface. Then, to a light stake, tie the 
point of the shoot in an upright position, which will open the 
cut or slit, care being taken not to sever entirely the point of the 
shoot from the main stem. Next cover the cut part with light 
sandy soil and give a good watering. Keep the soil moderately 

[242] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



moist, and in a few weeks the layers will be rooted when they 
may be severed from the parent stem and planted where they are 
to bloom. 

Should the Carnation be attacked by rust or spot, pick off all 
the affected leaves at once and spray the entire plant with Bor- 
deaux Mixture composed of one pound of powdered copper- 
sulphate in two gallons of water and one pound of fresh slacked 
lime in two gallons of water, these being mixed together and 
enough water being added to make ten gallons. Mix and stir the 
whole thoroughly and apply with a sponge or syringe, seeing that 
the underside of all the leaves is reached by the spray. About 
May first give the soil around the plants a good mulching with 
very old well-decomposed cow-manure and give water as required. 
As soon as the flower-stalks are six inches high, stake each flower- 
stem with a light stake about one-quarter of an inch in thickness, 
tying the stem loosely to the stake, to keep the flowers from being 
blown about by the winds or from being bent to the ground by 
watering. Pick off all spent flowers as soon as they lose color, 
and give water as required, 

DiANTHUS. 

A genus of many species including the Chinese Pink, Sweet 
William, etc, of easy culture and thriving in any good soil. The 
Sweet William is generally propagated by sowing the seeds, one- 
eighth of an inch deep, in July, When the seedlings are one 
inch in height, prick them off, three inches apart, in boxes, and 
plant them, in October or November, where they are wanted to 
bloom. The Chinese Pink should be sown in a warm frame or 
greenhouse in February, pricked off three inches apart, in boxes, 
when one inch high, and planted out of doors in April or early in 
May. 



[243] 



Gardening in California 




Diiiitalis. 



Digitalis (Fox-glove). 

A genus of about twenty species 
of hardy perennial or biennial flower- 
ing plants of stately habit, bearing 
racemes of funnel-shaped flowers. 
They thrive in any soil or situation 
but prefer a shaded spot under the 
limbs of trees or among tall-growing 
shrubs where they give a fine effect 
in early Summer. 

Propagate by seeds sown out of 
doors, in June, and covered very 
lightly. After the first rains in the 
Autumn, plant out the seedlings 
about a foot apart. 



DORONICUM. 

This old favorite herbaceous 
plant should be more commonly 
seen in our gardens than it is. Its 
Marguerite-like yellow flowers, 
growing on tall stately stems, make 
it an excellent cut flower for filling 
vases and decorating rooms in early 
Spring. It is of easy culture in any 
garden soil. 

Propagate by division of the 
roots during December or January. 




Doronicum. 



EscHSCHOLTZiA {California Poppy). 

This beautiful native wildflower, the glory of our fields and 
hillsides, requires no description. Any garden soil suits it, the 

[244] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



stronger the soil the deeper the color of the blossoms; in heavy 
loam they are deep orange in color, while in sand they are of a 
pale lemon shade with smaller flowers and shorter leaves. 

Propagate, after the first Fall rains, by sowing seeds in places 
where they are to flower, and covering the seeds to the depth of 
an eighth of an inch. The young plants, when two inches high, 
should be thinned to six inches apart; give the ground about 
them a light mulching of old manure. In ordinary seasons they 
require no artificial irrigation. There are several garden varieties 
with different shades of color from white to a reddish orange, 
including some which are pink. 



Fuchsia. 

A genus comprising about fifty 
species of small shrubs or trees, most 
of them having been introduced from 
South America and Mexico. Fuchsias 
are among the most popular and or- 
namental of our garden plants, es- 
pecially along the coast where the}- 
receive the benefit of the cool ocean 
breeze and attain a height of twenty 
feet. Whether the garden be large 
or small, it should have a few repre- 
sentative Fuchsia plants. They are 
excellent for covering fences or walls, 
where their branches with their 

panicles of rich flowers should be allowed to grow and droop 
naturally. For forming bush or pyramid-shaped specimens, 
Fuchsias are admirably adapted; if for pyramid, they should be 
trained with a single stem, the branches being pinched when 
they grow out of shape and the main stem being allowed to take 
the lead, it being pinched only when it fails to branch. When 

[245] 




Fuchsia. 



Gardening in California 



a bush-shape is wanted, pinch the main shoot and allow the 
branches to grow freely, pinching those only which are inclined 
to grow ahead of the others and thus threaten to get the plant out 
of shape. Before growth commences in Spring, the plants should 
be pruned back to the shape desired, and at least half of the 
previous year's growth cut off. 

Propagate in September by cuttings placed in a cold frame 
and kept close and shaded for about two weeks, when a little 
more air may be admitted, or they may be struck (in the open 
air) in a shaded place away from draughts of air, and kept moist. 
Soil for the cuttings should be composed of half sand and half 
leaf-mold; as soon as the cuttings are well rooted, they should be 
potted singly in three-inch pots and replaced in the frame until 
they form fresh roots. Protect the plant from frost during the 
first Winter by a covering of light cloth or branches of Cypress 
or other evergreen. There are numerous varieties of the Fuchsia, 
some of them of large size, very free-flowering and of all shades 
of red, purple and white. 

Gazania. 

This showy perennial is a native of the Cape of Good Hope, 
and is perfectly hardy, thriving in any garden soil and being an 
excellent plant for forming borders to walks, or for planting in 
rockeries. 

Propagate by cuttings placed in a cold frame, in September 
or October, in the open ground in a well-sheltered place, in soil 
composed of half sand and half light loam well-mixed together; 
after they are rooted, plant them in a prepared bed two inches 
apart until wanted for planting where they are to flower. 

Gerberia Jamiesonii (ffransvaal Daisy). 

A remarkably handsome perennial herbaceous plant which 
has recently been introduced from South Africa. It grows in 

[246] 




specimen of Fuchsia. 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



heavy clumps, has leaves about one foot in length, deeply cut, 
and blooms almost continuously throughout the year, bearing 
great masses of Marguerite-like flowers which are of a bright 
terra cotta color and have stems about one and a half feet in 
length. The Transvaal Daisy should be in every garden. 

Propagate by seeds sown during Spring, in soil composed of 
half leaf-mold, well decomposed, and half silver-sand, cover- 
ing the seeds to the depth of an eighth of an inch. As soon as 
the seedlings have formed four leaves, they should be potted 
singly in two-inch pots and afterwards given larger pots as 
required. Propagation of the Transvaal Daisy may also be 
effected by division of the roots during March or April. 

Geum. 

A genus comprising about thirty species of hardy perennial 
plants, very useful for forming groups in the flower-border, and 
for cutting for indoor decoration. They bear yellow, red or 
white flowers, some varieties being single-flowered and others 
double. 

They are of easy culture and thrive in any soil. Propagate 
by division of the roots in Winter or early Spring or by seeds 
sown, one-quarter of an inch deep, in October, where they are to 
bloom, thinning out the seedlings to one foot apart when they are 
about two inches high. 

GiLIA. 

This beautiful hardy native annual makes a most attractive 
mass of color when grown in a suitable place, as for example, a 
sunny spot in the open ground away from the garden proper, 
among the shrubs or in any semi-waste spot where a Spring 
effect is desired. It is of easy culture; in November spade the 
ground and, after raking it over, sow the seeds one-eighth of an 

[249] 



Gardening in California 



inch deep. Should the seeds germinate too thickly, thin the 
young plants, when two inches high, to three or four inches 
apart and they will require no further attention. 

Gladiolus. 

This genus contains about ninety species which are among 
our most popular garden flowers, their stately habit and gorgeous 
spikes of handsome flowers making them indispensable in all 
gardens. While some are pure white, they contain a great va- 
riety of color, ranging through all shades of pink and red to dark 
crimson, and also including yellows and purples. Some varieties 
are beautifully flaked and striped. The Gladioli should have a 
deep rich soil and a sunny situation and should be generously sup- 
plied with water during the growing season, while a heavy 
mulching of old cow-manure about the roots assists them to per- 
fect their flowers. Each flower-stalk should be tied to a light 
wooden stake to keep it from being moved or blown about by 
winds. As soon as the leaves begin to turn yellow in the Fall, 
the corms should be taken up with their tips intact, and laid in 
a cool dry shed to become ripened, when the tops may be cut off 
close to the bulb, and the corms placed in boxes, covered with 
dry soil and kept dry and cool until planting time. Plant the first 
lot of bulbs in February and the next lot in May; plant them 
about three inches deep, and one foot apart. 

Propagate by seeds sown in early Spring and covered to the 
depth of a quarter of an inch, or by the small corms or bulbs 
which form around the old corms or on the ends of the roots. 
These small corms should be planted in Spring in a nursery bed 
and grown on for a year before being planted in the flower-border. 

Helianthus {Sunflower). 

This genus includes the common Sunflower and about eighty 
other species. The tall-growing annual species thrive in any good 

[250] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



soil and show best when planted among tall shrubs or trees where 
they have a good background of foliage. The perennial species, 
not being such tall growers, are very suitable for planting in 
clumps in the herbaceous border, where their dense masses of 
bright yellow are very effective. 

The Multiflorus varieties are the most popular; some of them 
when well grown are as large and as double as a Dahlia. 

The annual species are propagated by seeds sown, where they 
are to flower, in early Spring. Cover the seeds to the depth of a 
quarter of an inch. Propagate the perennial species by division 
of the roots in early Spring. The annuals, when four inches high, 
should be thinned to eighteen inches apart, and the perennials 
should be planted two feet apart each way. 

Heliotrope. 

A genus comprising over one hundred species (mostly herbs, 
only a few of them being shrubby), the common Heliotrope, 
(Heliotrope Peruvianum) being the origin of most of the large 
trussed varieties now in use. They are of easy culture, preferring 
a light rich soil with plenty of water and a sunny situation. 

Propagate by cuttings inserted, in September, in sand and 
placed in a cool frame and kept shaded for the first two weeks. 
Where the temperature falls below thirty-three degrees Fahren- 
heit, the young plants should be protected from cold during the 
Winter. 

Heuchera. 

This pretty saxifrage-like plant is very useful for Spring- 
flowering, its bright pinkish-red flowers continuing in bloom for 
months. It is also good for cutting and for filling small vases. 
It is of easy culture, thriving in any soil. Heuchera sanguinea 
will be found one of the best species for general use. 

Propagate by dividing the crowns in early Spring. 

[251] 



Gardening in California 



Iberis (^Candytuft). 

This old favorite is of easy culture and not particular as to 
soil. Of course, it shows finer flowers and remains longer in 
bloom when given good rich soil than when a poor soil is used. 
The annual sorts are raised from seeds sown either in September 
or October, or in February or March. The seeds should be sown 
where they are to flower, and covered to the depth of an eighth 
of an inch, the seedlings, when two inches high, being thinned out 
to six inches apart each way. The perennial species, in addition 
to being propagated by seeds, may be increased by cuttings placed 
in a cold frame in October or November or by division of the 
roots in February or March. 

Impatiens. 

This genus includes the well-known Balsam and the free- 
flowering Impatiens Sultani from Zanzibar. 

The Balsam delights in a rich light soil and a warm sheltered 
situation away from cold winds and fog. Being an annual, it is 
raised only from seeds. The seeds should be sown in a hotbed 
or warm greenhouse and covered very lightly with finely-sifted 
sandy leaf-mold, March being a good month for the planting of 
the seeds which germinate in a few days. The seedlings should be 
pricked out, as soon as they are large enough to be handled, and 
planted three inches apart in pans or boxes; as soon as they fill 
the space in the boxes, they should be planted out where they 
are to bloom, or given more root-room so that their growth may 
not receive any check, otherwise their stems will become stunted 
and the flowers small and colorless. After planting them out of 
doors, give them a good watering and mulch them with well- 
decayed manure, giving them copious waterings at least twice 
a week. 

Impatiens Sultani, being a perennial, in addition to being 
easily raised from seeds may be increased by cuttings, taken, in 

[252] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



March or April, from tops of the young growths, inserted in 
sandy leaf-mold and placed in a hotbed or warm greenhouse 
where they will root in about ten days and be ready for potting. 
Impatiens Sultani makes an elegant pot plant, useful for decorat- 
ing the greenhouse or for placing on a warm veranda. 

Iresine. 

This very useful ornamental-leaved bedding plant is much 
used in outlining formal figures in carpet-bedding and ribbon 
borders and is considered an indispensable plant for Summer- 
planting. It is easily propagated by cuttings inserted under glass, 
in September or October, or by cuttings in the Spring, inserted in 
sand in a hotbed or warm propagating pit. As soon as they are 
rooted, plant the young plants, three inches apart in light rich 
soil, in pots or boxes, returning them to a warm frame or green- 
house until they take root in the soil, when they may be removed 
to a cold frame and gradually hardened by exposure to the open 
air. They should be planted out in their permanent quarters 
late in April or early in May. 

Lobelia. 

This genus comprises about two hundred species, a few 
shrubby, many herbaceous and a large number annuals. The 
dwarf annuals are very useful for bordering flower-beds and for 
forming a ground-work for tall-growing specimens, for instance, 
a bed of the tall-growing scarlet-flowered Lobelia cardinalis 
with a carpet or ground-work of the dwarf blue Lobelia speciosa, 
making a charming combination. 

They are all easily grown and thrive in any garden soil. The 
cardinalis type should be planted about one foot apart and the 
speciosa six inches apart. 

The annual species are raised from seeds sown under glass; 
the seeds should be sown, in February, in soil composed of half 

[253] 



Gardening in California 



leaf-mold and half light loam with enough sand to keep the 
compost open, the soil barely covering the seeds. The seeds 
being very fine, the soil for covering them should be sifted 
through a fine sieve. Place the pots or boxes where they have a 
little bottom heat; when the young seedlings are large enough 
to be handled, prick them out three inches apart in boxes and 
return them to a place with the same temperature for two weeks, 
when they may be placed in a cold frame and gradually hardened 
off, then placed out of doors until April or May, when they should 
be planted where they are to flower. 

The Lobelia Cardinalis type may also be raised from seeds, 
but they are generally increased by dividing the roots. This 
should be done in February or March. 

LUPINUS. 

This hardy genus contains about eighty species, most of them 
American and many being natives of the Pacific Coast. The 
perennial species form handsome specimens in the shrubbery 
borders, and the annual species are beautiful in the wild garden or 
for planting in the flower-borders. Lupins delight in a light 
sandy soil, thriving even in the most barren sands. 

Their propagation consists simply of sowing the seeds where 
they are to flower and raking the ground on which the seeds have 
been sown. The best season for planting the seeds is in October 
or immediately after the first rains. 

The shrubby blue-flowered Lupinus chamosonis and the yel- 
low Lupinus arboreus form handsome bushes from three to six 
feet tall and as much through the branches. They are very free- 
flowering; the annual species, such as Lupinus bicolor, form 
beautiful masses or beds. The herbaceous species are best when 
grown in partial shade, in the uncultivated copse, in hedge-rows 
or along the banks of streams. They require no artificial 
irrigation. 

[254] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



Lychnis. 

The old-fashioned favorite has not been grown much of late, 
but as there is now a tendency to return to the old style of 
herbaceous borders, no doubt the beautiful Lychnis, with its many 
varieties of charming bright colors, will again be seen in our 
gardens. The Lychnis thrives in any soil, but prefers a light 
sandy soil and a sunny situation. 

In October or November prepare the soil by digging it over 
and raking it smooth. Then sow the seeds where they are desired 
to bloom, and cover them lightly. Should the young plants come 
up too thickly, thin them, if the tall-growing species, to one foot 
apart, if the dwarf-growing species, to six inches apart. 

Mathiola {Stock). 

These popular herbs or sub- 
shrubs are probably the most com- 
monly grown of any flowering 
plants. Their colors range from 
white, through all shades of pink 
and red, into purple and violet, an- 
other point in their favor being 
their delightful fragrance. There 
are several types or classes, some 
flowering in early Spring and some 
in Summer, while others bloom in 
Autumn, this depending a good deal 
on the time of sowing the seeds. Stock. 

Stocks require a deep rich soil and 

a sheltered situation with plenty of moisture at the roots. Plant 
them six inches apart, choosing a cloudy day for the operation; 
after planting, give the soil a good soaking of water, and after- 
wards mulch the surface of the soil with old manure; water at 
least twice a week. 

[ 255 ] 




Gardening in California 



Propagate by sowing seeds of ten-week stock early in March, 
in a hotbed, the intermediate varieties in April, and the Bromp- 
tons late in July. Cover the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of 
an inch. As soon as the young plants are large enough to be 
handled, prick them out (in pots or boxes) three inches apart in 
light rich soil composed of one-third leaf-mold, one-third light 
loam, one-sixth old well-decomposed horse-manure and one-sixth 
soft sand, well mixed together; return them into the same tem- 
perature for about ten days, after which they should be trans- 
ferred into a cold frame and gradually exposed to the air, care 
being taken that the young plants do not receive any check in 
their growth either by sudden exposure to cold or by being taken 
from under glass and planted in the open without first being 
placed out of doors for at least a week until they get over the 
change from shelter to exposure. Another danger to be guarded 
against is leaving the young plants in the boxes after they have 
exhausted the soil, in which case the stems become hard and 
barkbound, thus forcing them to send up their flower-stalks 
which, on account of their stunted condition, are puny and weak. 
In short, the young plants should be kept in a vigorous growing 
condition from the time they germinate until planted where they 
are to flower. 

MiMULUS. 



This showy and ornamental genus comprises many fine- 
flowering annuals and a few shrubby species ; one of the shrubby 
species (Mimulus glutinosa) may be found blooming on our 
hillsides nearly every month of the year. Mimulus cardinalis, 
with its bright scarlet flowers, is a lovely perennial, thriving best 
by the side of a running stream, and another of our natives is 
Mimulus luteus, which flourishes by the banks of our ponds and 
lakes. The many and vari-colored varieties of Mimulus luteus 
are very effective garden flowers. Mimulus moschatus (the com- 
mon Musk) is another species of this genus and is a well-knownt 

[256] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



and favorite plant, both for growing in pots and for planting out- 
side in clumps, or for growing a ground-work for tall-stemmed 
flowers such as Lobelia cardinalis. 

Propagate by seeds sown (in early Spring) in the open air, 
where they are to flower, or by cuttings inserted (in early Spring) 
in a shady spot protected from wind and strong sunshine. The 
seeds, being very small, should be covered with soil very lightly. 
Mimulus moschatus is best propagated by dividing the roots in 
early Spring or before growth commences. 

MUSA. 

The Musas are among the very best of the large-leaved dec- 
orative plants, Musa ensete having the largest leaves. It is much 
used in subtropical gardening, sometimes producing leaves over 
fifteen feet in length with a breadth of three feet, these with their 
broad midrib of reddish-brown color, making it one of the hand- 
somest plants in a well-kept garden. The Musas delight in a 
warm sunny well-sheltered situation, a rich well-manured deep 
soil and plenty of water during the growing season. 

Propagate Musa ensete by seeds, sown to the depth of half 
an inch, in a hotbed, in February or March, and potted singly 
in four-inch pots as soon as the seedlings are six inches high ; give 
them more pot-room as required, planting them, in early May, 
where they are to remain. Musa Cavendishii, Musa coccinea and 
most of the other species are easily increased by dividing the roots 
or by taking the young suckers which form at the base of the 
stem, potting them, at any time during Winter or Spring, in light 
rich soil and placing them in bottom-heat until rooted. 

Myosotis {Forget-jne-not). 

A genus of elegant annual flowering plants excellent for early 
Spring bedding, or, preferably, for covering the ground among 
upright growing shrubs, all being of the easiest culture and thriv- 
ing in any soil. 

[257] 



Gardening in California 



Propagate by sowing the seeds, where they are to flower, early 
in October, or after the first rains, covering them very lightly. 
When the young plants are two or three inches high, thin them to 
six inches apart and the result will be a pleasing ground-work of 
pretty pale-blue, giving a fine finish to the flower-bed or shrub- 
bery group. 

Nemophylla. 

This early-flowering favorite is one of the best of our native 
annuals for filling flower-beds, clumping in the flower-borders, 
carpeting shrubbery-groups or covering dry banks to give natural 
effects. Its culture is of the simplest, all that is necessary being to 
sow the seeds thinly to the depth of an eighth of an inch, where 
they are to bloom, immediately after the first Fall rains; any 
soil will suit, down to the poorest sand or even a rocky ledge if 
the rock is loose enough to allow the roots to penetrate. 

Nemophylla insignis and Nemophylla aurita will be found 
the most useful of the species for general planting. 

Oenothera. 

Evening Primroses are among our favorite natives and are 
most desirable plants for the decoration of our gardens and shrub- 
beries; planted among shrubs, where their flower-stalks and 
bright-colored (pink, white or yellow) flowers show against the 
background of shrubby leaves, the effect is very pleasing, their 
flowers being among the most beautiful and attractive of our 
native perennial herbs. 

They thrive well in any soil not too shallow, and require little 
or no artificial irrigation. Oenothera biennis, Oenothera albi- 
caulis, Oenothera bistorta, Oenothera ovata and Oenothera cheir- 
anthifolia are all natives of this Coast and especially effective. 

Propagate b}^ seeds sown, to the depth of an eighth of an inch, 
where they are to bloom, in October, or immediately after the first 

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Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



rains have well soaked the soil, or by division of the root-stocks 
in Winter or early Spring. The seeds may be sown in a seed-bed 
and the seedlings transplanted when three or four inches high. 

The tall-growing sorts should be planted one foot apart and 
the dwarf species six inches apart. 

OXALIS. 

A large genus comprising over two hundred species scattered 
widely over the Temperate Zone but mainly in South America, 
Mexico and South Africa. They are mostly used as border-plants 
or for covering the surface of the ground under or among shrubs. 

They prefer a sandy soil and a sunny situation. All of the 
species are of easy culture and are propagated by division of the 
roots in early Spring. Plant them about a foot apart. They root 
quickly and spread rapidly; they should be taken up and 
replanted every second year. 

P^ONY. 

A well-known genus of hardy plants, natives of America, 
Asia and Japan, which are excellent plants for the decoration 
of the herbaceous border or for groups in the shrubbery. The 
species Pseonia officianalis have deciduous stems and perennial 
roots. Their flowers, both single and double, which range in 
color from purple through red and pink to pure white, are very 
effective in grouping and are also great favorites for cutting for 
room decoration. 

Pseonia moutan, the Japanese species, are highly decorative, 
and, having a range of color quite as extensive as the herbaceous 
species, are also most desirable plants for planting in groups in 
the shrubbery or garden-border. Their flowers are of immense 
size, single and double, and most gorgeous coloring. 

Plant them in January in heavy rich loam which is at least 
two feet in depth, care being taken not to cover the crown of 

[259] 



Gardening in California 



the plant too deeply, not over one inch of soil covering the 
crown. During the season of growth, they should be watered 
generously, and the surface of the soil should be well mulched 
with old manure. The clumps of the herbaceous species should 
not be moved or disturbed more often than once in five or six 
years, as it is found that disturbing their roots has a weakening 
effect on the plants. Plant them about three feet apart each 
way. If left alone and in good soil they will soon form large 
clumps. Propagate the herbaceous species, in Winter or early 
Spring, by division of the roots, and the tree moutan or Japanese 
species by grafting on to the roots of the herbaceous kinds in 
Winter. 

Papaver (Poppy). 

A hardy easily-grown genus of annual and perennial flower- 
ing plants, natives of the temperate or subtropical regions of 
Asia, North Africa and Europe. They grow well in any com- 
mon garden soil and are excellent for cutting, for decoration in- 
doors or for giving gay, many-colored effects in beds or flower- 
borders; they are also good for sowing or planting in woods or 
shrubberies. 

Sow seeds of Papaver daneborg, Papaver soniferum, or the 
Shirley species, in February, where intended to bloom; sow the 
seeds one-quarter of an inch deep. Thin the young plants to one 
foot apart, top-dressing the ground about the young seedlings 
with old manure to the depth of one-half or one inch; water 
when required. 

The perennial species, such as Papaver bracteatum, Papaver 
oriental is, etc., are propagated by division of the roots in early 
Spring or by seeds sown, in July, in a cold frame, pricked out 
in boxes as soon as large enough to be handled and planted in 
their permanent quarters in November. 

[260] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



Pelargonium. 

Without doubt the Geranium is the most universally grown 
plant to be found in our gardens, and deservedly so, its hardiness, 
its handsome evergreen foliage, with its ever-blooming many-col- 
ored flowers, making it a general favorite. 

The Pelargonium is divided into several sections, including 
the common bedding or Zonale, the ivy-leaved creeping section 
and the show or Lady Washingtons, these again being subdivided 
into innumerable varieties. All are of very easy culture and 
thrive well in any soil and in almost any aspect. 

Propagate by cuttings inserted in sandy soil in boxes or beds 
in the open air, in September. When they are rooted, rebox them 
in soil composed of equal parts loam, leaf-mold and old manure, 
with a little sand to keep the mixture open and free. 

In frostless sections, the young plants may remain out of doors 
all Winter; in other sections they should be placed under glass 
until all danger from frost has passed, and planted, where they 
are to bloom, in April or early May. 

Pentstemon. 

This hardy and popular perennial 
is among the most beautiful of our 
herbaceous plants, having erect, flow- 
ering branches (two or three feet tall) 
and funnel-shaped flowers, the prin- 
cipal colors being blue, pink, scarlet 
and white with all the intervening 
shades. The Pentstemon grows well 
in any fairly good soil. The flower- 
stalks of the taller-growing varieties 
should be supported by light stakes to 
keep them from being blown about 
by winds or borne down by heavy 
watering. 

[261] 




Pentstemon. 



Gardening in California 



Propagation is effected by seeds and cuttings; the seeds 
should be sown, to the depth of an eighth of an inch, in Febru- 
ary or early in March, in a cool frame. When large enough to 
be handled the seedlings should be pricked off, three inches apart, 
into pots or boxes, and planted out, when about four inches high, 
where they are to bloom. They should be exposed to full air 
and sunshine at least one week before being planted out of 
doors. Propagation by cuttings is made, in September, by 
inserting the cuttings either in a cold frame, where they may be 
shaded for the first two weeks, or in a shady spot away from 
cold draughts of wind, out of doors, in soil composed of half 
sand and half leaf-mold. 

Petunia. 

A genus of hardy, free-flower- 
ing plants belonging to the So- 
lanum family, native of Brazil and 
the Argentine Republic. They are 
very showy and effective for plant- 
ing in beds or masses, also for 
planting in waste ground or where 
water is not very plentiful. They 
thrive in any soil and require very 
little attention in the way of 
watering if the soil about the 
plants is kept loose and clear of 
weeds. If extra large flowers are 
wanted, give them good rich soil 
and a reasonable amount of water. 

Petunias are raised principally from seeds sown in February, 
one-sixteenth of an inch deep, in a cold frame, pricked off (into 
boxes) three inches apart, and, as soon as they are of sufficient 
size, hardened by being placed in the open air for a week or ten 
days and then planted where they are to flower. 

[262] 




Petunia. 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



Special varieties, such as the double and finely-fringed single, 
are propagated by cuttings ; these should be taken off in Septem- 
ber and inserted in sandy soil, either in boxes or in the bed of the 
frame, and kept shaded during the middle of the day until young 
roots begin to form, when they should be given more air and 
light and gradually exposed to full sunshine. Plant them out 
of doors, where they are to bloom, at any season where there is 
no frost, and in other sections as soon as cold weather is past in 
the Spring. 

Phlox. 

This brilliant native of the Eastern States is becoming a 
general favorite in our gardens, its handsome panicles of charm- 
ingly beautiful flowers being excellent, when cut, for the dec- 
oration of our rooms and halls. It also gives color and bright- 
ness to our flower-borders, and, where a good collection of the 
early or Summer-flowering varieties together with the tall-grow- 
ing Autumn late-flowering varieties are cultivated, a long season 
of continuous bloom may be had by the different kinds succeed- 
ing each other in flowering. 

The dwarf species, such as Phlox subulata, are very useful 
for covering rock- work and for forming front lines in mixed 
borders. 

The annual Phlox Drummondii is one of our most beautiful 
Summer-blooming plants. This species and its many varieties 
are suitable for filling flower-beds or for forming a ground- 
covering among taller-stemmed subjects. They (Phlox Drum- 
mondii) are raised from seeds sown in February in a warm hot- 
bed, a little bottom-heat being of great assistance to their free 
germination in pots or boxes in light sandy soil. Seeds should 
be covered to the depth of an eighth of an inch. As soon as the 
seedlings are large enough to be handled, they should be pricked 
off into boxes and grown on in frames until large enough to be 

[ 263 ] 



Gardening in California 



planted in the open air. Before being planted, they should be 
hardened off by being placed in the open air for a week or ten 
days. 

The perennial species are propagated by cuttings of the young 
shoots which start from the old stools in Spring. Take off the 
shoots when they make a growth of four inches and place them 
in light sandy soil in a cold frame, shading them for a few days, 
during hot sunshine. As soon as they are rooted, take them out 
and plant them in the open border in rows eight inches apart and 
three inches apart in the row. These will make good plants for 
flowering the following season. 

The most popular system of increasing the number of plants 
is by simply dividing the old stools into small pieces in early 
Spring and replanting. In planting the tall-growing species, set 
them out about two feet apart. In Summer a good top-dressing 
of old manure will be found very beneficial, besides conserving 
the moisture by preventing evaporation. 

Platystemon {Cream Cup). 

This charming little annual is one of our earliest Spring 
flowers, flowering some years as early as January. Its lovely 
straw-colored, poppy-like flowers are always welcome wherever 
they are found. 

It is propagated by simply shaking a pinch of seed where 
a patch of the pretty cream-colored flowers is desired, in 
October, or immediately after the ground has received a good 
rain in the Fall. Should the seedlings come up too thickly, thin 
them to three inches apart. 



[264] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 




Poinsettia. 



POINSETTIA. 

Poinsettia pulcherrima, the 
most showy of the species, is a 
general favorite, during Decem- 
ber and January, for the decora- 
tion of our halls and dinner 
tables. 

In the northern counties the 
Poinsettia is treated as a green- 
house plant; from Santa Bar- 
bara south it gives grand results 
when grown in the open ground, 
its great scarlet bracts often 
being twelve inches or more 
in width and the plant itself 
frequently growing ten feet high and six feet wide. 

PORTULACA. 

This old favorite, popularly known as Purslane, is sometimes 
used in salads but generally is grown for its gaily-colored flowers 
of purple, yellow, or pink. A near-allied species, the Calandrina 
caulescens, is a native of California and grows abundantly all 
over the State. 

Its cultivation, like that of the Portulaca, is very simple; 
after cultivating the ground, sow the seeds thinly and rake the 
ground lightly to cover the seeds, any time between the fall of 
the first rains and the first of February. This will insure a bed 
of bright flowers in Spring and early Summer. Thin the plants 
to eight inches apart as soon as they are large enough to be 
handled. 

POTENTILLA. 

This pretty little perennial-flowering plant is found very 
useful for planting in the herbaceous border and among 
shrubs where its bright single and also double flowers are verv 

[ 265 ] 



Gardening in California 



attractive. It grows well in any good garden soil but prefers a 
light sandy soil or a situation among rocks. 

It is easily propagated by dividing the roots, in early Spring, 
or by seeds sown, to the depth of an eighth of an inch, in the 
Fall, where they are to bloom, and thinned to six inches apart. 




Primula. 

A genus comprising between 
seventy and eighty species of hardy 
perennials. The common Primrose, 
the Cowslip, the Chinese Primula 
obconica, the Primula Japonica, be- 
sides many others, are charming 
early-Spring flowers, often opening 
their pretty yellow, mauve, brown or 
white blossoms as early as January 
and continuing in flower for months. 
Many of the double varieties are very 
floriferous, almost hiding the foliage 
with their beautiful white, pink or 
purple blossoms. The Primulas de- 
light in a shady, moist situation facing the East or North, in a 
light rich soil. Plant them about one foot apart. 

Propagate by seeds sown in Spring, covered to the depth of 
one-eighth of an inch, and kept growing in pots or boxes or a 
sheltered, shady border until Fall (when they should be planted 
where they are to flower) or, where a stock of old plants is at 
hand, by dividing the roots in the Fall. 

Pyrethrum (Feverfew). 

This hardy herbaceous perennial is best known here by the 
variety named the Golden Feather which is much used in bed- 
ding and as front lines to ribbon borders, etc. 

[266] 



Primula obconica. 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



P)Tethrum roseum, used in the manufacture of insect pow- 
ders, has rose-colored, single. Marguerite-like flowers which are 
exceedingly handsome. There are also many varieties with 
double flowers and tall erect stems, very useful for cutting for 
inside room decoration. Their cultivation is simple, any good 
garden soil suiting them. 

Propagation is effected by seeds sown a sixteenth of an inch 
deep, in February, in a cold frame, or in March with a little 
bottom heat; prick the seedlings out in boxes or sheltered bor- 
ders until they are large enough to be placed in their permanent 
quarters. Pyrethrum roseum and other tall-growing sorts may 
also be increased by taking up the roots, dividing them into sec- 
tions, replanting them one foot apart and top-dressing the sur- 
face of the soil with old manure. 

Reseda {Mignonette). 

This universal, favorite, sweet-scented annual is one which 
ought to be seen in every home garden. It will grow in any good 
garden soil, but, if fine flower-stalks are expected, the soil can 
scarcely be made too rich. 

Propagate by seeds sown where they are to flower and cov- 
ered to the depth of a quarter of an inch. February is a good 
season for the sowing of the first crop, and another sowing should 
be made in July; these two sowings will keep up a continual 
supply of flowers during every month of the year, provided the 
plants are not allowed to seed. In sowing, it is a good plan to 
rake the ground finely and sow the seeds in drills about one foot 
apart, the drills to be drawn the shape of the bed or patch 
desired, whether circular, oval or other form. When the plants 
are three inches high, thin them to one foot apart and mulch well 
with old manure, giving water when required. 

To those who have limited space, this little favorite will be 
found very accommodating, as it does well even in a window-box 
if given an Easterlv or Northern exposure, requiring a good, 

[ 267 ] 



Gardening in Californi 



rich, light soil and plenty of water, care being taken, however, 
not to get the soil soggy or sour. 

Rosa (Rose). 

This important genus of highly ornamental flowering shrubs 
is widely distributed over the Temperate Zone. It is divided 
into many sections or groups, these again being divided into 
numerous varieties. No one of our ornamental flowering plants 
is more worthy of attention from cultivators or flower-lovers than 
the Rose. It is well named the Queen of Flowers, and is useful 
and beautiful in the many positions it is called upon to adorn, 
provided it is given fair treatment in the way of soil and cul- 
tivation. Some of the groups will be found suitable for almost 
any situation: — covering trellises or arbors, covering walls or 
verandas, in mixed borders, or as bedders. A number of the 
stronger-growing species (such as the Ramblers, the Cherokees and 
the Banksias) make grand effects when allowed to grow wildly 
among the branches of a spreading oak or a tall pine, their 
showers of white, red or yellow blossoms almost covering their 
own leaves, as well as those of the tree which gives them support. 
The Rose is propagated by seeds, cuttings, layers and budding, 
but by cuttings is without doubt the best system for increasing 
the great majority of the finer varieties. Roses of nearly all 
the varieties do well on their own roots, and propagation by 
cuttings may be carried on during the Summer and Autumn 
months. The first batch should be put in as soon as the first 
crop of flowers is over, and half-ripe wood is in condition, which 
is generally as soon as the flowers drop from the young growth 
and before the buds on the flowering shoots begin to swell. Cut- 
tings of this wood make excellent material and should be about 
six inches in length, if taken off with a heel so much the better. 
The cuttings should be inserted in a cool, shaded border free 
from draughts, in soil composed of half sand and half leaf- 
mold. When making the cuttings in the Summer season, the 

[268] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



leaves should be carefully preserved. Plant the cuttings in rows 
about twelve inches apart, and three inches apart in the row. 

The tea-scented and most of the Japanese and Chinese spe- 
cies and their varieties root well if the cuttings are taken in 
September and inserted in prepared soil in a border facing the 
North or in boxes eight or ten inches deep; the soil should be 
of a light sandy nature, covered with about one-half inch of 
pure sand and well-watered. After the cutting-bed has been 
prepared and the soil watered, take off the cuttings and insert 
them in the soil at once; then give a good watering to settle the 
soil about the cuttings. 

The Hybrid Perpetuals and other hardy sorts root well if 
the cuttings, at the time of pruning, which is in November or 
December, are put in nursery rows in the open ground; use the 
previous year's wood in about eight-inch lengths, planting the 
cuttings six inches deep and leaving about two buds above 
ground; soil of a light sandy nature should be used in the 
cutting-beds. 

Propagation by budding is effected by taking a bud of the 
variety to be propagated and budding it on the Manette or some 
other strong grower, selecting a time when both the stock and the 
bud are in proper condition, that is when the bark lifts or parts 
easily from the wood, which is generally in April or May, care 
being taken that neither the stock nor the biid is bruised during 
the operation. 

Propagation by Seeds is resorted to only when it is desired 
to raise new varieties. Sow the seeds to the depth of a quarter 
of an inch, in January, in the open border in a sheltered spot in 
well-prepared, light sandy loam. The seedlings will appear in 
Spring or Summer. Should they come up too thickly, thin them 
out to about one inch apart as soon as they are large enough to 
be handled, and transplant the thinnings to where they can be 
shaded till again established. The following Spring, as early as 
the state of the ground will permit, take up the seedlings and 

[269] 



Gardening in California 



plant them in nursery rows, cutting each of them back to one 
or two inches; plant them six inches apart in rows one foot 
apart. When the plants come into bloom, all those with poor 
flowers should be discarded and the most promising preserved 
till their true merits are thoroughly tested. 

Propagation by layering is not much practised. It is best 
performed in May or June. Cover the bend with sandy soil and 
keep moist until rooted. When the layers are well-rooted, sever 
them from the parent plant and plant them in a sheltered border 
until a permanent position is prepared for them. 

To grow Roses well, a deep rich soil must be used. The 
Hybrid Perpetuals require a strong, loamy soil, one and one-half 
or two feet in depth, well drained. In places where good soil is 
not found and rose-beds are to be formed, it will be necessary to 
remove the natural soil and replace it with the loamy soil; when 
this is done and the soil is satisfactory, it should be well enriched 
with old manure and the whole trenched to the depth of two feet; 
the operation should be carried out in the Fall. Before planting 
the young Rose plants, about February, first dig the ground 
over, breaking up all the big lumps or clods, then plant out the 
young plants about three feet apart, selecting a time when the 
soil is in good order and not wet or sticky. After planting, if 
the soil is inclined to be dry, give a good watering and mulch the 
ground with a top-dressing of two inches of half-rotten manure. 

Climbing Roses of the Rambler and Banksia, as well as the 
Cherokee types, also prefer a strong loam and plenty of manure. 
The tea-scented, the everblooming, and the Chinese types seem 
to do best and give their finest flowers in soil of a lighter nature, 
a light sandy soil well-enriched with old manure suiting them 
admirably. 

During dry weather in Summer, while the Rose is making its 
growth, it should receive a generous supply of water at the roots. 
At no season should the roots of the plants be allowed to become 
dry as this weakens the growth, and the young wood does not 

[270] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



ripen firmly, while next season's growth starts feebly and the 
flowers are poor and colorless. 

The pruning of the different species varies according to the 
habit of growth and the purpose for which they are used. 

The Pillar Roses (those that are used in covering stumps of 
old trees, trellises, etc.) which are generally strong growers 
(under fair conditions, making an annual growth of from six 
to twenty feet) must be treated differently in the way of prun- 
ing from those which are naturally of a bushy, dwarf habit. The 
Climber is grown for the purpose of covering large areas and 
to give great showers of bloom, whereas the dwarf kinds are 
grown mostly for their fine form or size, individually, or in 
clusters of from three to six in a cluster. In pruning the Climbers, 
in December or January, all that is necessary is to thin the shoots 
of any weak or worn out or dead or surplus branches and shorten 
the previous year's shoots by cutting off the soft or unripened 
tips, on the other hand being careful not to thin too freely thus 
exposing too much of the wall or trellises on which they are 
trained. 

The Hybrid Perpetuals, the Bourbons and the tea-scented 
sections which are grown in beds or borders and are desired for 
their individual flowers, should be pruned back in December or 
January each year, leaving only from four to eight buds on each 
shoot of the previous year's growth. 

When the bushes are four or five years old, it will become 
necessary to thin out some of the old stems, but only enough to 
keep the middle of the bush from becoming crowded too much; 
this admits light and air to each growth and encourages stronger 
stems and finer flowers. 

Should, as is very often the case, the plants show a tendency 
to make weak, spindly growth, it is a good plan to take them up 
in early Spring and either transplant them into new soil or trench 
the ground over (enriching it with a plentiful supply of old 
manure) and replant them after cutting them well back and 

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Gardening in California 



trimming in the roots, pruning off any which are dead or 
diseased. 

The Rose is subject to several diseases, the worst of which 
is Mildew; this should be attended to at once and not left until 
all the leaves are attacked, but, as soon as the first speck of Mil- 
dew is observed, the whole of the plant should be sprinkled with 
a dusting of flowers of sulphur. The Rose-rust is another disease 
which frequently attacks the leaves; it forms on the underside of 
the leaves in red dots or small masses. As yet no cure has been 
found for this disease, so as soon as a leaf is found with this rust 
upon it, it should be picked off and not merely left on the ground 
but should be burned up to prevent the disease from spreading 
to other plants. 

The Rose is also attacked by several species of Aphides, com- 
monly called green or brown fly. These should be got rid of by 
syringing with strong soap-suds in the evening and washing off 
in the morning with the hose; this operation should be con- 
tinued each evening until the fly is all cleaned off. A solution 
of tobacco water is also effective, and sometimes dusting the 
leaves with tobacco dust will have the desired effect. 

When caterpillars infest the leaves, they generally coil them- 
selves in the folds of the leaves. Press the affected leaves firmly 
between the finger and the thumb, thus killing the caterpillar, or 
the leaves can be picked off and burned. 

Salpiglosis. 

This ornamental native of Chile is a general favorite in all 
gardens on account of the odd coloring of its tube-shaped flowers. 
It thrives best in a light rich soil where the plants should be one 
foot apart. 

Propagate by seeds sown in a gentle bottom heat in early 
March; cover the seeds very lightly. Prick them out three 
inches apart into pots or boxes as soon as the seedlings are large 

[272] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



enough to be handled, keeping the young plants close and shaded 
for a few days until they take root; gradually harden them off 
by exposure to the open air, and plant them, where they are to 
bloom, when they are from four to six inches high. 

Salvia. 

This brilliant. Autumn-blooming, bedding plant is indispen- 
sable where bright color effects are desired. The Salvias thrive 
in a light sandy soil well-enriched with old manure and are kept 
growing by generous supplies of water at the root. 

Propagate the shrubby varieties by cuttings, in September or 
October, inserted in sandy soil in a cool frame and kept shaded 
during sunshine until rooted. Where the temperature falls to 
the freezing point, the cuttings should be kept under glass until 
all danger from frost is over, when they may be planted where 
they are to bloom. The tuberous-rooted species (such as Salvia 
patens) are propagated by cuttings taken from the young shoots 
which start from the crown in early Spring; these should be 
placed in a warm house or frame until rooted; they may also be 
increased by dividing the roots in Spring. 

Saxifraga. 

A large genus of hardy perennial herbs, very useful for plant- 
ing in rockwork where they form beautiful and interesting effects. 
Saxifraga palmata, probably the largest-leafed species of the 
genus, is a native of California, growing on the banks of our 
streams and creeks; Saxifraga sarmentosa (Aaron's Beard), an 
old favorite, is much used in hanging baskets or in forming 
borders. 

They thrive in any soil under ordinary care, and are easily 
propagated by dividing the roots or by seeds sown in the open 
ground in early Spring, the seeds being covered very lightly. 

[273] 



Gardening in California 



SCABIOSA. 

This hardy perennial herb is of easy cultivation and grows in 
any soil with little care, having the good quality of requiring 
little water. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in early Spring, where they are to 
flower; cover the seeds to the depth of one-eighth of an inch. 
Thin the young plants to one foot apart when they are large 
enough to be handled. They may also be increased by division 
of the roots in February or March. 

SiLENE {Catchfly). 

This genus comprises over two hundred species, only a few 
of which are adapted to conditions in California. Among the 
best may be named Silene pendula and Silene compacta; both 
of these give fine effects in early Spring and thrive in any light 
sandy soil. 

Propagate by sowing the seeds, where they are to bloom, in 
September or October. The seeds should be covered to the depth 
of one-sixteenth of an inch. Thin the seedlings, when two inches 
high, to six or eight inches apart. 

Trop^olum {Nasturtium). 

Highly ornamental climbers or twining plants, intro- 
duced from South America. They are among the most useful of 
our annual-flowering plants, requiring very little attention and 
thriving in any soil. For quickly covering arbors or anything 
which is unsightly, the tall-growing species are not easily sur- 
passed. The dwarf bushy species are excellent for planting as a 
groundwork among shrubs, or for filling beds in semi-dry situ- 
ations as they continue to bloom quite late in Summer if the 
ground is well cultivated and mulched with a top dressing of 
manure, leaf-mold or other loose fertilizing material. 

Sow the seeds, one-quarter of an inch deep, where they are 
wanted, at any season between the first rains and March in the 

[274] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



frostless belt, and as soon as danger from frost is over in other 
districts. Nasturtiums should not be sown in rich soil as in such 
they grow too much to leaves and stems, flowering more profusely 
if their growth is not too strong. 

Tropseolum tuberosum, Tropseolum speciosum and other 
tuberous-rooted species do not seem to take kindly to California, 
although no good reason has yet been given for their failure; 
being natives of Chile and the cooler districts of Peru, they ought 
to do splendidly. They are all handsome climbers and no doubt 
they will yet give good results when the proper conditions are 
found for them. 

Verbascum {Mullen). 

A genus comprising over one hundred species of hardy bien- 
nial herbs or subshrubs. Some of them are exceedingly handsome, 
the stately spikes of brightly-colored flowers being very orna- 
mental, especially when grown among shrubs. They thrive in 
any soil, all that is necessary being, in early Spring, to sow the 
seeds, one-sixteenth of an inch deep, where wanted, and to thin 
the young plants to one foot apart when they are two or three 
inches high. 

Verbena. 



A genus embracing eighty spe- 
cies of hardy perennial herbs or 
subshrubs, being among the best of 
our bedding plants and blooming 
continually for months at a time. 
Their colors range through all 
shades of purple and blue, through 
reds and pinks to the purest white. 
Their habit is low and spreading, 
making excellent ground-work for 
flowering-plants with tall stems. 

They are propagated by seeds 

[ 275 ] 




Vcrhcna. 



Gardening in Californi 



sown in a gentle heat, in early Spring, and covered to the depth 
of an eighth of an inch. When the young plants are large enough 
to be handled, they should be pricked off, three inches apart, in 
pots or boxes. Use soil composed of one-quarter leaf-mold, 
one-half good friable loam and one-quarter old well-rotted horse- 
or cow-manure with enough sand to keep the whole free and open. 
Before planting out, place them in the open air for a week or ten 
days to harden them; plant them when from four to six inches 
high. They may also be increased by cuttings late in the Fall, 
and again in Spring. All species of Verbena like a good rich 
soil and a liberal supply of water. They should also be mulched 
around each plant with half-rotted manure to encourage vigorous 
growth. 

Viola (Pansy). 

This popular plant is a 
favorite of rich and poor 
alike, everyone, who has a 
garden, growing a few 
Pansies. This is deservedly 
so, in view of its wonder- 
ful variety of color and its 
free-flowering habit to- 
P^j^^^ gether with the ease with 

which it may be grown. 
The Pansy delights in a cool moist situation, and generally gives 
its best flowers in cool damp weather in early Spring. As soon 
as the hot dry weather commences, the flowers become small, and 
the growth spindling and weak. The soil for Pansies should be 
of good strong loam enriched with a generous addition of well- 
decomposed cow- or horse-manure. 

Plant, in October, one foot apart, and give a good mulching 
of old manure after planting; as the Pansy thrives best in a 
moist cool soil, watering should not be neglected, and the soil 

[ 276 ] 




Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



must be kept moist at all times; should the soil be allowed even 
once to become dust-dry the crop for that season will be injured. 

Propagate by seeds sown, to the depth of an eighth of an 
inch, in a cool frame or lath-house and shaded from the sun by 
the glass being covered with burlap or other shading material. 
July is about the best season for sowing the seeds. This will 
allow the grower to have strong bushy plants ready to be set out 
by October first, or as soon as the Summer-blooming flowers are 
over, when the Pansies may take the place of those finished 
blooming, and occupy the ground through the Winter and early 
Spring; along the cool coast counties a second sowing may, in 
January or February, be made for Summer-flowering. As soon 
as the young plants are large enough to be handled, they must 
be pricked out in beds or boxes in light, rich soil comj)osed of 
one-third good friable loam, one-third leaf-mold and one-third 
equal quantities of sand and old manure, the whole being well 
mixed together by being turned over several times. It is impor- 
tant that the young plants be well rooted, and planted with a 
good ball of earth adhering to the roots. 

Varieties of Pansies are divided into three sections, viz.: 
Selfs, White-grounds and Yellow-grounds. 

Selfs are all of one color and are either black, maroon, white 
or yellow. White-ground and Yellow-ground varieties are those 
which have a large dark center, then a central ring of white or 
yellow and an outer band of dark color. 

The fancy division has the various colors and tints curiously 
blotched, striped and edged. Still another section, though not 
the true Pansy, is the Viola cornuta, or horned-violet, which, 
with its many showy self colors, makes an excellent bedding 
plant during the Summer months. 



[ ^77 ] 



Gardening in California 



Viola odorata {Violet). 

This favorite, sweet-scented Winter and early-Spring flower 
is grown by everyone who cultivates a garden whether in a 
twenty-five foot lot or in grounds of many acres. In the cooler 
portions of the State it thrives well in open, sunny situations, 
while in the hotter and dryer sections it grows best in shaded 
spots or in a situation facing the North. The Violet prefers soil 
of a light loamy nature well-enriched with plenty of old manure. 

Propagation is by runners taken off the old plants about the 
first of March. After the ground is spaded and leveled, it should 
be raked fine and the young shoots planted from six to twelve 
inches apart, the strong growers (such as the California, Prin- 
cess of Wales, etc.) twelve inches apart, and the Neapolitan, 
Marie Louise, etc., six inches apart. Should the weather be dry, 
the young plants should be given a thorough watering; about the 
beginning of June give the surface of the ground a mulching of 
old manure an inch deep, and water frequently, not allowing the 
ground to get dry at any time during the growing season. 

The operation of replanting should be attended to each 
Spring as the old plants get worn out and weak if left in the 
same ground two or more years. 

Zinnia. 

The Zinnia, a native of Mexico, is one of the favorite flower- 
ing annuals, growing easily and being much used in the decora- 
tion of the flower-border and also for bedding. It thrives best 
in a deep rich soil and a sunny situation. 

Sow the seeds, one-eighth of an inch deep, in a warm green- 
house or frame in early March, or in the open border in April. 
When they are two inches high, prick off the young seedlings 
four inches apart, in boxes, if they have been raised under glass, 
or, if sown where they are to bloom, thin them out to one foot 

[278] 



Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 



apart. About the first of June top-dress the surface of the 
ground with old manure and give abundance of water during the 
growing season. If mulching is objected to, keep the soil hoed 
after each watering, to prevent it from baking and cracking. The 
Zinnias, from the time the young plants germinate, should be 
kept growing freely; at no time should they be allowed a check 
either from poor soil or for want of water, as the least check to 
their growth causes them to throw poor small flowers, and they 
never seem to do well afterwards. 



[279 



Gardening in California 



CHAPTER XV. 

PONDS, LAKES AND THE WATER GARDEN, 

WHERE grounds have the required space, water effects 
should be introduced, nothing in nature being more 
brilliant in its effects than water, whether in motion, 
tumbling in creek-form, which perhaps is the most striking of 
all, or in repose in pond or lake. 

The size or extent of the body of water should of course be 
in proportion to the extent of the improved grounds. A glimpse 
of a river or creek in the background gives a wonderfully grand 
finish to an ideal landscape, while a modest water-effect in pond- 
shape adds a charm to the smaller garden or grounds such as 
nothing else can possibly give. 

In very few places are fine water-effects more appreciated 
than in the middle and southerly counties of California. This 
is accounted for by the great lack of rain during several months 
of the ordinary year, say from April to October, when the whole 
State from Butte to San Diego is dry, brown and dusty, and, 
consequently, the pleasure from the prospect of a gushing foun- 
tain or a running creek or river is greatly enhanced, such a water- 
effect, in fact, being a positive relief to the eye. Every village 
and hamlet should have its fountain-basin, as well as its drinking- 
place for horses and dogs, filled with clear water, for practical 
use and as a pleasing and effective ornament. 

Before making an artificial pond, first decide upon the site, 
the size, the shape which it may assume, the depth of water and 
the mode of construction. The proportion of water-effect in the 
garden-plan should be, as nearly as possible, one in ten; for 
example, in a garden of four acres, from one-quarter to one-half 
an acre should be water. 

[280] 



Ponds, Lakes and the Water Garden 



It is hardly necessary to say that all these details as to the 
pond should first be carefully planned on paper, to scale. If 
the garden is laid out in the natural style, the outline of the 
water-surface should assume an irregular shape with deep bays 
and promontories, not only for the purpose of giving variety to 
the outline but also in order to have the opportunity of placing 
plants of different character in the locations best adapted to their 
requirements and habits, for some plants give better effects when 
planted on a bold point projecting into the water-line than when 
planted in a hollow or at the head of a bay, while others, which 
are low-growing, give much better results when planted close to 
the water and along the margin of a bay shore. 

In laying out a piece of water, there should be no straight or 
regular lines, that is, no point of land should be exactly a dupli- 
cate of any other point on the same pond, nor should there be 
a repetition of the shape of any of the bays or indentations along 
the shore line. 

After staking out the shore line, next clear the ground of any 
brush, stumps or rough weeds, and excavate to the required depth 
which should be at least three feet in the deepest part, gradually 
getting more shallow as the shore-line is approached. If the soil 
thus excavated is of good quality it will be of value for dressing 
any poorer ground in the neighborhood. 

After the excavation work is done, smooth and level the 
entire surface of the bottom and sides. Should the soil be of a 
loamy, rocky or sandy nature or at all porous, puddling-clay of 
a total thickness of six inches must be laid evenly over the entire 
surface, this being spread in two layers, first one of four inches 
thick and then a finishing coat of two inches. The clay for the 
puddling should be free from all rock and should contain not 
more than twenty-five per cent of sand. After the first layer of 
four inches has been spread, the next operation is to break the 
clay up with picks and hammers until all lumps are broken, when 
a good soaking with water must be given. Then with a tamper, 

[281] 



Gardening in California 



not greater than one and one-half inches in diameter at the lower 
end, give the whole mass a thorough tamping until it is of the 
consistency of putty as used for glass setting. After the first 
layer has been puddled into shape and tamped firm and smooth, 
spread and treat the second layer in the same manner, finishing 
it with a flat tamper about six inches square at the lower end. 
This will give the whole a perfectly smooth finish. 

On the surface of the clay, it is well to spread a layer, one 
inch thick, of screened rock (say of about one-half inch in size) 
to protect the clay from being disturbed by washing or by poles 
or rods being driven through the clay-bed thus making holes 
through which the water would escape. 

Where the pond is small, a thin layer of concrete should be 
spread on top of the rock, as it makes the work of cleaning away 
sediment or dirt much easier. 

In addition to the overflow pipe, there should be, for con- 
venience in cleaning out the pond, a pipe of at least six inches 
in diameter, placed in the bottom at the lowest spot of the pond, 
on the inner end of which pipe a strainer should be screwed to 
keep leaves or other litter from entering and thus choking the 
pipe. Of course drainage pipes are useful only where sufficient 
fall can be had in the ground adjoining the lake. Where a 
sufficient fall cannot be had, drainage pipes will not be of any 
use and should not be put in. 

Where the grounds are laid out in a formal manner, the pond 
should also be made formal in shape, either circular, like some 
fountain-basins, with granite or concrete copings, or octagonal, 
or of some other architectural design in keeping with the 
surroundings. 

When the lake or pond is ready for the water, the next study 
is what plants, if any, should adorn the surface of the water and 
how they should be arranged. Before turning in the water, and 
where it is decided to plant Water Lilies, it is well to have basins 
constructed for holding the amount of soil necessary for growing 

[282] 



Ponds, Lakes and the Water Garden 



these very interesting and beautiful flowers. These soil-boxes 
or basins should be made, if possible, of brick or concrete and 
should be about fifteen inches deep and four feet square. Fill 
them with soil composed of one-half rich surface loam and one- 
half old well-decomposed cow or horse-manure, the loam and the 
manure having been first well-mixed together, a month or so 
before being used, by being turned over several times. Fill the 
boxes to within two inches of the top and top-dress with one 
inch of coarse gravel. 

After setting out the Water Lilies (which should be in early 
March) and as soon as the roots are planted, turn in the water 
and fill the pond until the water covers the boxes three inches, 
keeping the water at that level until the plants begin to throw up 
their young leaves when the pond may be filled to the surface 
or the level designed. 

The planting of the margin should now also be attended to, 
the semi-aquatics such as the Japanese Iris, the Papyrus anti- 
quorum and the Calla being set out nearest the water or where the 
water is not more than a few inches deep. On the promontories 
may be planted Bamboos, Arundos, Birches, Willows, Pampas 
grass, Eulalias, and, where the grounds are very large the Swamp 
Cypress of Louisiana (Taxodium distichum). 

In planting out the Water Lilies, place the Nelumbiums in 
the largest basins and the smaller-growing Nymphseas in the 
basins nearer the edges. 

The Nymphsea odorata, a native of the Eastern States, will 
be found one of the best for general planting, having beautiful 
pure-white flowers of delicious fragrance. There are several 
varieties of this lovely species, including Nymphsea Caroliniana 
with petals of delicate pink, a good grower with large flowers. 
Another charming variety is Nymphsea exquisita, a moderate 
grower with rose-colored flowers, while Nymphsea sulphurea, 
with yellow flowers, is one of the very best for cultivation in our 
ponds, its flowers being large and standing up clear of the water 

[285] 



Gardening in California 



from six to eight inches and its leaves being beautifully mottled 
with chestnut-colored spots. 

Nymphsea tuberosa, a native of the Western States, has a 
beautiful flower pure-white and sometimes as large as nine inches 
across. This species should be planted where the water is from 
four to five feet deep, and its roots should be kept from mixing 
with the smaller growers, otherwise it will starve them out and 
choke them. There is a rose-colored variety of this species which 
is identical with the original excepting in the color of the flowers. 

Nymphsea alba and its varieties are also very desirable, all 
having beautiful flowers and handsome leaves, among the best 
being Nymphsea candidissima, with pure-white flowers of large 
size standing clear of the water. Nymphsea fulgens, as its name 
implies, is a brilliant crimson with flowers beautifully cupped; 
this variety should be in every collection, Nymphsea rosea is 
another charming variety with flowers varying in color from 
pink to purple. 

Then there are the Marliacea Hybrids most of them bearing 
large flowers in many shades of color, some pink, some red and 
some yellow, while others have stamens of a different color from 
the petals making effective combinations. 

Nymphsea cserulea, a distinct species with blue flowers and 
yellow stamens, ought to be in every collection. 

Nymphsea Zanzibarensis (the Royal Purple Lily) is without 
doubt one of the finest of the Water Lily family, being a strong 
grower and a free bloomer with rich purple stamens and petals 
of intense blue, and having a very sweet odor. The foliage is a 
rich green, the under-side being purple. This species has a rose- 
colored variety, which, on account of its color^ is also very 
desirable. 

Nymphsea Devoniensis and its varieties are another class 
which add much to the attractiveness of the water-garden as 
they are night-flowering. They are very vigorous growers and 
free-bloomers, the flowers, under good cultivation, growing 

[286] 



Ponds, Lakes and the Water Garden 



sometimes to a size of twelve inches across; they are of a bright 
rosy red and are borne on stems well above the water, 

Nymphsea lotus, from Egypt, is a beautiful white-flowering 
species also blooming in the night. 




Small Lake Bordered zvith Willow and Pine. 

Nymphsea dentata, another white-flowered species, is one of 
the best and largest of the night-flowering varieties; it has ser- 
rated leaves of deep green, 

Victoria Regia, one of the most remarkable productions of 

[287] 



Gardening in California 



the vegetable kingdom, is a native of tropical South America. It 
bears leaves from five to seven feet in diameter with a vertical 
rim from three to six inches high. Its deliciously fragrant flowers 
measure from twelve to fifteen inches in diameter and open about 
five o'clock in the evening, closing the following morning about 
nine o'clock, reopening about five or six o'clock the same after- 
noon and closing, for good, the morning of the second day. The 
first time the flowers open they are white slightly tinted with 
pink, the second time they open they are of a rosy pink. To 
grow well, this species or an}^ of its varieties, must have a sunny, 
sheltered situation, and the water must be kept at a temperature 
of about eighty degrees Fahrenheit, which of course necessitates 
artificial heat, this being produced by hot water pipes running 
through the tank or pond in which the Victoria is to be grown. 

Nelumbium speciosum (Egyptian Lotus) is one of the best 
of the species, being a vigorous grower and a free bloomer with 
flowers of rosy pink. 

Nelumbium luteum (the American lotus), is not quite so 
strong-growing as the Egyptian species, but, on account of its 
color, should be in every collection; its flowers are pale yellow. 
There is also a white-flowered, strong-growing species named 
Nelumbium alba grandiflorum, whose white flowers make it very 
desirable, as they contrast well with the pink flowers of the 
Egyptian. 

The Nelumbium all like a well-sheltered situation and plenty 
of space to show to advantage. 

Propagate by seeds sown, in February, in pots filled with 
light sandy soil, the seeds being covered about one-quarter of an 
inch deep; submerge the pots, covering them to the depth of 
about three inches and keeping the water at a temperature of 
about seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit. When the seedlings have 
made two or three leaves, pot them singly in three-inch pots, 
using a slightly richer soil than was recommended for the seed 
pots; as soon as they have filled the pots with roots, give them 

[288I 




ri»''^;.^->. 



'^^_, 






Pond with Lilies. 



Ponds, Lakes and the Water Garden 



larger pots; plant out the hardier species, such as Nymphsea 
alba or Nymphsea odorata in April, and the Nelumbiums a 
month later. 

Propagation may also be effected by division of the roots or 
rhizomes, in early Spring before growth commences; plant at 
once where they are to bloom. 




Babylonian Willoiv. 



[291 ] 



Gardening in California 



CHAPTER XVI. 



PARLOR GARDENING. 



THIS chapter treats of various kinds of vase-plants suitable 
for halls and apartments, and how to grow them. 

In order to be successful in growing plants in the halls 
or ordinary rooms of the dwelling-house, we must select those ac- 
customed naturally to the strong heat of tropical and semi- 
tropical regions, as they stand the dry and dusty air of a living 
room with a temperature varying from fifty to seventy-five de- 
grees Fahrenheit. 

It should perhaps first be stated that if the plants are in- 
tended to be kept close to the glass of the windows and exposed to 
the Southerly sun, a class will have to be selected different from 
those which can be grown successfully if placed either in the 
middle or toward the side of the room where they will be par- 
tially shaded. 

Among the latter class, that is, those which thrive well in the 
middle or side of the room, and, while enjoying the light, are 
injured by the direct rays of the sun shining through glass, may 
be mentioned that best of all parlor vase-plants, Kentia Belmo- 
riana, the ideal condition and exposure for this plant being in 
a room facing the West, the pot being placed on a level with the 
window-sill about three feet from the glass. The window-shade 
should be kept up all day until the sun gets round, when it 
should immediately be pulled down and left down until the sun 
leaves the window, at which time it should again be raised. 

Among other plants which do well in similar conditions 
and with similar treatment may be mentioned the Rubber 
Plant (Ficus elastica), Dracsena terminalis, Pandanus utilis, 

[292] 



Parlor Gardening 



Dieffenbachias and Alocasias, also some of the stronger-growing 
Marantas, such as Maranta zebrina, Maranta bicolor and Cal- 
adium esculenta. 

Bamboos make most effective hall plants when well grown. 
They also stand shade well. Another favorite which thrives 
under all conditions is the Aspidistra lurida, and mention should 
be made of the Aspidistra lurida variagata, whose broad sword- 
shaped leaves have a fine effect either in a hall or a sitting room. 

The Cocos plumosa, Seaforthia, Corypha australis, Latania 
Bourbonica, Areca leutescens, and Areca Baurii, also Raphis fla- 
belliformes (the Japanese cane palm) are all satisfactory in the 
decorating of apartments. 

In a general way it may be stated that most of the plants 
which carry thick, leathery, smooth foliage are satisfactory and 
are easily grown, whereas most of the plants which have thin, 
transparent foliage, or those of hairy, downy or russety texture 
do poorly. The dust sticks to the fibres of the thin leaves and 
to the rough surface of those which have a downy or hairy tex- 
ture, and, as this dust cannot be washed or sponged off, the pores 
get choked up and the leaves turn yellow on account of their 
lungs being clogged, so that unless taken where the air is free 
from dust the plants will sicken and die. 

Among window plants which stand a little sun and, as a rule, 
thrive well, may be mentioned the shrubby Begonias, Geraniums, 
Petunias, and Nasturtiums. Few of the Fern family are happy 
in the dry air of our apartments, although some of those with 
leathery, smooth foliage do well for a time. The Boston Fern, 
(Nephrolepis exaltata), Pteris critica and Pteris argyrea are 
among the best for this purpose. For shady nooks or verandas 
many Ferns do extremely well, the Five-fingered Fern and the 
Woodwardia making excellent growth. 



[293] 



Gardening in Californi 



CHAPTER XVII. 



THE WINDOW BOX. 



A GREAT many people, especially of those residing in large 
cities, have neither the room to grow well, nor perhaps the 
money to spare for the purchase of expensive palms or vases 
for the decoration of their sitting-rooms. But all have a window 
and a window-sill where a surprising number of different kinds of 
handsome foliage and flowering plants may be grown well. Even 
if the window-sill be no wider than six inches, a very good win- 
dow effect may be had, and nothing adds more to the appearance 
of a building than a few window boxes. 

The window box should not be narrower than six inches, with 
a depth of about eight inches, and should be as long as the width 
of the window. After the box is made, bore holes about one 
inch in diameter and about five or six inches apart in the bottom 
of the box; over each hole place a flat piece of broken pot or 
a flat stone; without disturbing these flat stones, put into the 
box an inch of gravel or broken pot-sherds, and, over this, a layer 
of moss to keep the soil from mixing with the drainage material ; 
then fill the box to within one inch of the top with soil composed 
of one-half good surface loam, one-quarter leaf-mold and one- 
quarter sharp, clean sand together with a sprinkling of old manure 
well-rotted, the whole having been turned over and mixed 
together several times before being used. In this soil set out 
the plants selected for the window box. 

Among window plants which generally succeed well. Ivy 
Geraniums of various colors may safely be depended upon, as 
they stand rough treatment and grow well in any exposure. 
Where the window faces East or North, the common Fuchsia 
does splendidly; the Nasturtium and the Mesembryanthemum 

[294] 




Windoiv Boxes. 



The W i n d o w Box 



also give fine results, while the Zonale Pelargonium and the 
common scarlet Geranium can always be counted upon to flourish. 
Blue Lobelias, Heliotrope, Mignonette, Sweet Peas, the dwarf 
Campanulas and the Tuberous Begonias, where given a window 
facing East, will give gorgeous masses of color. Many of the 
dwarf Cactus, etc., also do well if given a Southern exposure. 

In Spring, fine effects may be had if boxes are filled with 
Pansies, Violets, Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus and other Spring- 
flowering bulbs. 

Great care should always be exercised in regard to the water- 
ing of the plants; see that the soil is kept moist but not too wet. 
When watering, give enough water to thoroughly wet the soil 
but do not give any more until the soil shows signs of being dry 
at least one-half inch from the surface. 

The window box should be overhauled once a year, the best 
time being in Spring just before growth commences. All of the 
plants should be taken out of the box, and fresh soil as well as 
clear drainage material put in, preferably young plants being set 
in the box. 

When it is desirable to have a more continuous color effect 
than is possible with Summer and Fall-flowering plants only, it 
is well to have a double set of boxes, one set for the Summer and 
Autumn decorations and another set for the growing of plants 
which make an attractive showing in Winter and early Spring. 
Some of the popular Summer and Fall-flowering plants have 
already been described. Prepare the Winter and Spring boxes 
as suggested for the other plants and fill them with the same class 
of soil. Secure as early in the Fall as possible (say October 1st 
to 25th), a collection of Hyacinths, Tulips, Narcissus and other 
bulbs, and plant them about six inches apart in the boxes. The 
box in which the Hyacinths are planted should be set out of doors 
in a position facing North, given a good soaking of water, and 
covered with sand to the depth (over the top of the box) of six 

[297] 



Gardening in California 



inches. Allow them to remain in this position until they have 
made a growth of from four to five inches, then carefully remove 
the sand from the top of the box and gradually expose the 
blanched leaves to light and air; as soon as the leaves assume 
their natural green color the box may be placed in the window. 
Tulips and Narcissus require the same treatment, excepting that 
only three inches of sand, instead of six inches, will be required 
to cover them. 

Pansies and Viola cornuta as well as Forget-me-not make 
excellent subjects for Winter and Spring-flowering window 
boxes. Sow the seeds of Pansies and also Forget-me-not in early 
July and plant them three inches apart in boxes as soon as they 
have made from four to six leaves. About November first they 
will be ready to be planted six inches apart in the window boxes. 
The Viola cornuta seeds should be sown early in June and grown 
on as suggested for the treatment of the Pansy and Forget-me-not. 

Another charming Winter and early Spring-flowering plant 
suitable for decorating the window is the modest little Silene 
(catchfly) ; sow in July and grow as recommended for the Pansy. 

It may be stated that the dimensions of the box given here 
are for the narrowest window-sill; should the window-sill be 
twelve inches or more in width, much better results may be 
expected both in the health of the plants and the greater number 
of plants which may be grown. 

Should insects attack any of the plants, sponge the leaves with 
soap-suds, and, the following morning, sprinkle them with clear 
water. Keep the foliage clear of dust by syringing or spraying 
the leaves with clear, soft water. This will greatly encourage 
growth and assist in keeping the plants in good health. 



[298 



The Amateur's Conservatory 



CHAPTER XVIII. 

THE amateur's CONSERVATORY. 

A GREAT deal of pleasure without a large outlay of expense 
can be derived from a small Conservatory or even a Plant- 
room attached to the dwelling-house. In a small Conserva- 
tory, the first requisite is perfect command of the ventilation, and 
the next, perfect command of the light by having the sides which 
are exposed to the sun, provided with spring blinds or shades so 
that in clear, dry weather the direct rays of the sun may be kept 
off the foliage. Otherwise, the foliage is apt to become scorched 
and blistered, and besides, when the air of the Conservatory gets 
too hot and dry, it takes away from the leaves that lively, fresh 
finish, which is so much of the beauty of the plant carrying per- 
fect leaves. 

We build a Conservatory to enable us to enjoy the vegetation 
of the tropics or of countries with warmer climates than our 
own. Let us then fill the Conservatory with plants which cannot 
be successfully cultivated in the open air, and not with Roses, 
Carnations, Geraniums, etc. 

The plants best suited for Conservatories are the finer Palms 
and Dracaenas, the finer Ferns such as the Adiantum, the Daval- 
lia, Asplenium, the tropical Gymnogramea, and many others 
which are easily grown in a temperature between fifty-five and 
eighty degrees Fahrenheit, provided they are sheltered from the 
direct rays of the sun, are given a moist atmosphere and are not 
subjected to cold draughts of air blowing through the plant 
house. 

Special care must be given to preparing the soil for Palms. 

Most of the Palm family enjoy a good, strong soil, one com- 
posed of one-half good yellow surface loam, one-quarter well- 

[299] 



Gardening in California 



rotted horse-manure, and one-quarter well-decomposed leaf- 
mold, with a sprinkling of good sharp sand, suiting them well. 
A soil composed of these parts should be turned over several 
times, so as to insure that all are well-mixed together. 

Before potting, the pots must be thoroughly clean and dry. 
If the pots are new, they must be well soaked in water (being left 
in the water sufficiently long to get saturated), and then 




Interior of Greenhouse. 



allowed to dry before being used. When a new pot is not soaked 
before being used, it frequently happens that the first few water- 
ings, instead of being beneficial to the plant, only serve to soak 
the pot, while the ball of soil, which the pot contains, becomes 
so dry that it is a difficult matter to again get it into a satisfactory, 
moist condition. 

One of the most common errors among amateur gardeners is 
to put their plants into pots which are too large. A pot which 
will hold all the roots, leaving one-half of an inch of fresh soil 

[300] 



The Amateur's Conservatory 



around the old ball, is quite large enough for a change of pot; 
for example, if a plant growing in a four-inch pot should require 
a change, it should have the ball of earth reduced so that it may 
be repotted in one which is five inches in diameter. Over-potting 
should be guarded against, as if a Palm or a Fern is given a pot 
which is too large, a little over-watering sours the soil, and kills 
the roots. 

In taking a plant out of a pot to put it into a larger one, the 
pot, in which the plant is, should be turned upside down and the 
edge of the pot tapped gently so as to start the ball of soil. All 
the drainage material must be taken from the bottom of the ball. 
The roots must be carefully examined, and, if they are not in 
good health and condition, must be cut, with a knife, back into 
sound wood; any loose soil should be removed, and then the plant 
can be repotted in a pot a size larger than it formerly occupied. 
This, of course, is provided the roots are in good condition, as if 
they are not so, the plant should be repotted in a pot the same 
size as formerly, and should be kept in that size of pot until the 
plant forms fresh roots, when it should be repotted in one a size 
larger. 

The question as to what size of pot should be used for a plant 
is one which is often asked. This depends not only upon the size 
of the plant, but also upon what kind of plant it is; for example, 
whether it is a plant which is a fast, strong grower, or one of 
slow growth; whether its roots are soft and fleshy, or whether 
they are of a fine, hair-like texture, etc., etc. Palms, for instance, 
which carry six leaves, three feet in length, will do better and 
will be more easily kept in a healthy-growing condition if potted 
in good soil in a seven-inch pot than if in one which is much 
larger. 

See Chapter XXII, 'The Calendar of Operations," for sug- 
gestions and detailed instructions as to the work in the Green- 
house or Conservatory, month by month, throughout the year. 

[301 1 



Gardening in Californi 



CHAPTER XIX. 

TREATMENT OF THE COMMON DISEASES OF, AND INSECTS 
INJURIOUS TO PLANTS. 

DISEASES of plants are many and varied, some being 
the result of attacks of injurious insects, while others 
are caused by fungus growth which comes from 
improper nutrition and poor circulation, or from very sud- 
den atmospheric changes: — for example, from warm, balmy 
weather which encourages rapid growth, to cold, harsh winds 
which seem to chill the whole plant while checking its 
growth. The plant in these conditions suffers particularly 
from the fact that, on account of the soil being warm, 
the roots continue sending up supplies of sap of greater quantity 
than the leaves and soft stems (being so chilled and semi-para- 
lyzed by the cold air) are able to assimilate, and thus there is 
caused a choking of the sap-vessels which greatly weakens the 
plant, so that it gets into a condition susceptible to an attack by 
any disease. Unless the weather moderates so that the plant can 
again make vigorous growth and throw off the attack, it may 
suffer severely and take weeks and, sometimes even months to 
recover. 

The most common of the fungus diseases is undoubtedly the 
Powdery Mildew, which attacks leaves, stems, flowers and fruits. 
It appears like a thin white powder at first over the leaves, after- 
wards spreading to the stems, stopping at once and entirely the 
further growth of the part attacked. It is propagated by spores 
which increase with amazing rapidity, often dwarfing and some- 
times killing outright the whole plant. There are several kinds 
of Mildew including the Rose Mildew, the Grape Vine Mildew, 

[ 302 ] 



Diseases and Injurious Insects 



the Hop Mildew, the Pear Mildew, etc. All varieties of Mildew 
may be checked by dusting flowers of sulphur over the affected 
and the adjoining parts of the plant. 

As soon as the least speck of Mildew is noticed on any part of 
the plant, the affected part should at once be given a good dusting, 
and this work should not be delayed an hour longer than is neces- 
sary, otherwise serious damage will be the result: — for example, 
if the plant attacked is a Rose, the Mildew, if not checked, will 
ruin the crop of flowers. 

Bordeaux Mixture is also a good cure for Mildew, and may 
be used if sulphur should fail, and should be applied in the same 
manner as sulphur. 

A sulphur bellows made especially for use in this work may 
be procured from any seedsman at little cost, and it will be found 
that the use of the bellows economizes the sulphur. 

Green Flies (Aphides), sometimes called Plant Lice, are 
very destructive to the young shoots and foliage of plants, 
especially Roses on which they congregate in large numbers and 
send their long sharp feelers into the bark and leaves, sucking 
the juice from the plants. As they multiply with astonishing 
rapidity, they, if not destroyed, will eventually cause the destruc- 
tion of the parts affected, and this in a very short time. 

The best remedies for successfully getting rid of these pests 
are Tobacco and Whale-oil Soap ; even common soap-suds, when 
not too strongly impregnated with soda or chloride of lime, will 
be found effective for this purpose if the foliage is syringed 
freely in the evening and sprayed with clear water through the 
hose the following morning. This should be done three consecu- 
tive evenings. 

To apply the tobacco, one pound of the common tobacco- 
leaf should be first soaked in six gallons of hot water to which 
should be added one-half pound of soft black or whale-oil soap. 
These should be mixed together by the syringe, and the plant 

[303] 



f 



Gardening in California 



should be thoroughly syringed with the liquid in the evenings 
and washed by the hose with clear water early the following 
mornings. 

Sometimes it is not desirable to use tobacco in liquid form. 
In that case the leaves can be dusted freely with tobacco dust 
which should be left on the foliage for about forty-eight hours, 
and then washed off with the hose. Should the first application 
be not effective, a second or even a third application can be made 
until all the flies are cleared off. 

Several prepared mixtures are sold by seedsmen, such as Gis- 
hurst's Compound, Fir-Tree oil, etc., which, if applied as directed 
on the labels, will be found effective. Often water used freely 
with the hose under good pressure will clean them off if applied 
before the flies have got too strong a hold on the plant. 

There are other kinds of Aphides some of which are black and 
attack Cherries and other fruit trees, but they generally yield to 
the same treatment. 

When the Aphides attack plants in a green-house, fumigation 
with tobacco stems will be found the best remedy. A close, dull 
evening should be selected and the foliage of the plants should be 
perfectly dry. 

To effectively fumigate a green-house it is necessary to get 
an iron pot into which should be put a few pieces of lighted char- 
coal, on which should be spread a few tobacco stems. On top of 
the tobacco a layer of damp moss should be placed, and the house 
should be densely filled with the smoke, care being taken that no 
iiame arises in the burning. The house must be kept perfectly 
closed for twelve hours. Then the ventilator should be opened 
and the plants syringed freely with clean, tepid water. Should 
the first smoking not be effective, the operation can be repeated 
a second evening in the same manner, and, when the fly has had 
a long hold on the plants, it may be necessary to fumigate even 
a third time. 

[304] 



Diseases and Injurious Insects 



A pest which is responsible for a great many of our worst 
failures in plant cultivation is Thrips, as it attacks some of our 
most delicate and most finely leaved plants, and from the fact 
that this insect is so very small, it is generally not noticed until 
considerable damage has been done. 

It feeds only on the juices and fleshy parts of the leaves, leav- 
ing the fibrous parts untouched, giving the plant a withered, 
blighted appearance. 

This insect may be recognized by its narrow, black or brown 
body, and its four straight narrow wings which are fringed with 
hairs in saw-like edges. There are several varieties, but as they 
are all equally destructive and yield to the same treatment, it is 
unnecessary to further refer to their identification. When the 
pest is found to be infesting a green-house, the fumigating treat- 
ment as recommended for Aphides produces satisfactory results. 
When the insect is found on shrubs out of doors, the plants should 
be well syringed with tobacco water, care also being taken to see 
that the plants are well watered at the roots, this watering giving 
additional vigor to the plants which will tend to render the Thrip 
attack harmless. 

The Red Spider is a small eight-legged mite which receives 
its name from its color (always of a rusty red). It has the spider 
habit of spinning a fine web, generally on the under side of the 
leaves of trees. It is so small that it is almost invisible to the 
naked eye. 

When Red Spiders establish themselves on a plant, they spin 
webs of very fine texture on the under side of the leaves. Then 
by means of their suckers they bore into the leaves and suck out 
the juice or sap. The leaf becomes yellow and covered with 
spots, ultimately dies and drops prematurely. Sometimes an 
attack of this pest strips the tree months before the usual time; 
if a fruit tree, the crop for the year fails, and besides, the branches 
formed for the following year are stunted and immature. 

[305] 



Gardening in California 



The Red Spider seldom attacks plants in a good healthy con- 
dition, unless they suffer from drought. Hence any measures 
which encourage vigorous growth, such as plenty of water at the 
roots, frequent hosing overhead, mulching the ground around the 
plants with manure and freely cultivating the soil, diminish the 
effects of the attack to a great extent. 

When a plant is attacked by Red Spiders, equal parts of sul- 
phur and coal-soot should be mixed and dusted freely over the 
entire plant, or one pound of sulphur-dust with two pounds of 
soot should be put into six gallons of water and syringed over the 
plant attacked. If this pest gets into a green-house, the hot water 
pipe should be painted with a paste made of sulphur and quick- 
lime in equal parts. If the green-house is heated, the leaves should 
be dusted with sulphur and soot as recommended for out of door 
plants, while the atmosphere of the green-house should be kept 
in a moist condition, and, if these suggestions are followed and 
careful attention is given to the watering of the roots, the Red 
Spider will not make much headway. 

Caterpillars are of various kinds, some species attacking only 
Oaks, while others confine their operations to the leaves of the 
Rose, and still others are found only on the Hawthorn or Cab- 
bage, etc. Those which live in webs, such as the common Oak 
tree caterpillar, can easily be cut off and destroyed by waiting 
until evening when they invariably return home after feeding 
on the Oak leaves all day. The branch on which they have woven 
their webby home should be cut off, and the caterpillars can thea 
be crushed or piled up and set fire to. In the case of those whose 
nests are too high to be reached by hand, the branch can be cut 
with long-handled shears and the caterpillars can be destroyed 
as just suggested, or, if preferred, an oiled rag can be tied to a 
long pole and lit, and the web of the nest of caterpillars touched 
with the lighted rag, their home thus being destroyed and the 
whole colony killed. No attempt should be made to destroy them 

[306] 



Diseases and Injurious Insects 



in the middle of the day, as they are at that time feeding all over 
the tree, and any which are overlooked will immediately com- 
mence building a new nest, and consequently multiply the number 
of nests to be destroyed. 

The common Rose caterpillar is easily got rid of by hand- 
picking or by dusting with Paris green. 

Slugs are about the commonest pest, and these destructive 
molluscles are well known to all garden owners. They seem par- 
tial to soft-wooded plants of low growth, hiding under the leaves 
which touch the ground, and feeding on the undergrowth and 
flower stalks, seeming to take delight in eating holes into or pieces 
out of the leaves and flower-stems, thus ruining many promising 
flower-beds. 

Among the most effective remedies are baits of cabbage and 
lettuce leaves laid near the plants which need protection. These 
traps should be set in the evening and examined the next morn- 
ing; the slugs should be shaken off and covered with lime, salt 
or wood ashes. All of these applications should be repeated at 
least once, as the slugs seem to have strength enough to crawl off 
with one coat of the dust and to throw it off with a coat of slime, 
but the second application invariably kills them. Frequent dust- 
ing of the ground immediately around where the plants are 
troubled has a great tendency to drive off the slugs. A little dust- 
ing of lime close to the neck of favorite plants is also a good cure 
and a better preventive. A dressing of soot is a very good fer- 
tilizer and a good protection against all the varieties of slugs 
and snails. 

The Scale insects are among the most dangerous and trouble- 
some of injurious insects, a single female raising from two hun- 
dred to five hundred at a single brood. They are said to hatch 
four or five generations a year. For the clearing of nursery stock, 
hydrocyanic acid gas is frequently used by fumigating, but, as 
it is necessary to have the use of a tent in doing this, it is not 

[307] 



Gardening in California 



always convenient for the amateur, and, unless the operation is 
very carefully carried out, damage to the plant may result. 

A favorite remedy for the common black or brown scale is a 
strong mixture of tobacco and whale-oil soap, the soap suffocating 
them by closing the breathing pores along the sides of their bodies. 
Use about one-quarter pound of the soap and two ounces of 
extract of tobacco to a gallon of water and syringe the plants 
about three times a week, syringing with clear water the day fol- 
lowing the application of the mixture; continue the spraying 
until all of the scale are washed off. 




Canary Islands Date Palm. 



A Few Explanations and Directions 



CHAPTER XX. 

A FEW EXPLANATIONS AND DIRECTIONS. 

IN writing this book, it has been, at times, convenient to apply 
terms commonly in use by professional gardeners. 

As the exact significance of some of these may not be 
known to all readers, it has been thought that the following 
explanations and directions may be of service. 

Mulching and Top Dressing. 

As stated in Chapter VI, mulching is the best means of pre- 
serving a steady degree of moisture in the soil and of keeping it 
at an even temperature. It also prevents the soil from cracking 
and proves beneficial on account of its substance being washed 
into the soil by rains or artificial watering; in fact, there is no 
practice more beneficial to newly planted trees or plants, of almost 
any kind, than a good mulching, especially in a climate like ours. 
It saves much labor in watering, and, as has just been stated, is 
the best means of preserving a uniform degree of moisture in the 
soil surrounding the root. This is emphasized by repetition, as it 
is a most important point and, other things being equal, plants 
will languish or thrive just in proportion as this condition is 
secured. 

Although mulching is apparently a very simple operation, it 
must be carefully done. Before mulching a newly planted tree, 
the soil should be shaped in the form of a basin, the rim of which 
is extended one foot beyond the extremity of the roots. The rim 
should be three or four inches higher than the bottom of the basin 
so that rain or water applied artificially will be retained. The 
mulch should be kept at least three inches away from the stem 
of the tree. 

[309] 



Gardening in California 



The best mulch for trees is half -decomposed stable-manure, 
which should be spread about three inches thick and levelled 
evenly; about half an inch of soil should be spread over the 
manure to keep it from shifting in event of heavy wind. Where 
stable-manure cannot be had, half- rotted tree-leaves, short grass 
cuttings and even tan-bark are suitable. 

The practise of mulching may be carried into the flower-beds, 
as well as to the trees and shrubs. The writer has personally 
found the mulching of flowering plants to be of great value. The 
soil is not compressed by watering nor baked into a crust by the 
sun ; evaporation is arrested and the growth materially increased. 

In mulching flowering plants the material to be used should 
be well-rotted stable-manure or thoroughly decomposed leaf-soil 
and should not be spread more thickly on the surface than one- 
half inch. 

The mulching of lawns should be also very carefully done. 
Owing to the continuous, heavy, artificial watering necessary in 
our dry climate, mulching is of great benefit both in preserving 
the health and vigor of the grass and in preventing evaporation. 
July is the best month for doing this. After about two months 
of watering with the hose or sprinkler, the soil will be found to 
have become hard and washed looking while the small roots of 
the grass will be partially exposed, thus necessarily requiring more 
frequent and more copious watering. The best mulch for a lawn 
in this condition is a covering of about one-half inch of well-rotted 
stable-manure spread evenly over the entire surface of the lawn. 
This will give a soft springy surface and renewed life and growth 
to the grass while its color will become much darker. It will not 
then require nearly so much water to keep fresh and vigorous. 

Mulching newly sown grass or other seeds means spreading a 
thin layer of clean, fresh straw over the surface of the ground, its 
purpose being to shade the ground until the seeds germinate. The 
straw should be raked off when the grass is one inch high. 

[310] 



A Few Explanations and Directions 



Pricking Out. 

This is a term which is applied to the removal of small seed- 
ling plants, from the seed-bed, to pots or boxes. The operation 
is generally carried out as soon as the young seedlings are about 
one inch in height. They should be lifted from the seed-bed by 
hand, the soil shaken carefully from the roots and the plants 
placed singly on a thin board or on the surface of the soil in the 
box in which the young seedlings are to be pricked out. They 
should then be taken singly by the upper leaves between the finger 
and thumb of the left hand; a hole should be made in the soil 
with the forefinger of the right hand or with a dibble and the 
roots of the young seedlings should be carefully placed into that 
hole so that the lower leaf or leaves of the plant rest on the sur- 
face; the soil should then be gently pressed about the roots. 
When the box or pot is filled, the young plants should receive a 
gentle watering with the watering-pot through a line rose. They 
should then be returned to a position and temperature similar to 
that in which they were grown, and shaded from strong sunshine 
for a few days or until the young plants have made fresh roots 
when they may be gradually exposed to light and air. 

Budding. 

The usual method of increasing plants, provided by nature, 
is by seeds. Seeds increase species, but as the peculiarities of 
varieties can rarely be perpetuated in the same manner, there 
arose the necessity of finding a method of increasing a variety so 
that its qualities would not be altered, and this can be accom- 
plished by budding. The possibilities of grafting and budding 
however, have certain limitations. Those trees only which are 
allied to each other respond so that the budding operations can be 
successfully performed. 

As a general rule, the seed, cone, nut and mast-bearing wood 

[311] 



Gardening in Californi 



should be worked on each other, and unless the stock and scion 
or bud are nearly related (such as varieties of the same species, 
species of the same genera, genera of the same order), the result 
will be unsuccessful. 

Budding is an operation by which a bud, together with a 
portion of the bark, is removed from a plant and inserted be- 
neath the inner bark of another plant or beneath the bark of the 
same plant. The best time for budding is when the cambium 
or sap is flowing freely, allowing the bark to be easily raised 
from the wood. When the stock and the tree or bush, from 
which the bud is taken, are in that condition, the operation will 
be successful and the union of the bud with the stock most readily 
effected. If the bark adheres firmly to the wood, it shows that 
the flow of sap has been arrested and in that case budding should 
not be attempted. 

In operating, take a shoot from the tree or bush (from which 
buds are to be worked) and immediately cut off the leaves within 
one inch of the stem; make a transverse incision in the stock, 
and, from the middle of this, make a longitudinal one. A bud 
should now be removed from the shoot by taking the shoot in 
the left hand and entering the knife about one-half inch below 
the bud, more or less, according to the size of the shoot and of 
the stock; with a clean, sloping cut pass the knife upward and 
inward till under the bud, and then slope outward so that the eye 
or bud may be nearly in the middle of the piece thus detached. 
In doing this, the knife will necessarily cut off a portion of the 
wood along with the bud; this should be removed. To do so, 
turn the surface upward, holding the piece between the fore- 
finger and thumb of the left hand, enter the point of the 
knife between the inner bark and upper extremity of the 
wood, raise the extremity a little, so that it can be laid 
hold of between the point of the knife and the nail of the thumb, 
and then by a twitch remove the wood. Be careful to see that, 
along with the wood, the core of the bud is not also removed. 



A Few Explanations and Directions 



If the core comes along with the wood the bud is unlikely to be 
a success, and another bud should be taken. 

The bud is now ready for insertion. With the ivory handle 
of the budding knife, raise the bark of the stock at the incision 
before mentioned ; commencing at the corners immediately below 
the cross-cut, slip in the handle of the knife gently and carefully 
avoiding any forcing or scratching of the wood or bark. When 
the bark is sufficiently raised to admit the bud, take the bud by 
the leaf stalk and gently insert it by the assistance of the ivory 
handle. Let the upper part of the bud be at the cross-cut of the 
stock so that the bud may fit closely to the upper edge of the cut. 
The operation, to be done well, should be done quickly, for the 
organizing tissue is very delicate and soon becomes injured by 
exposure. 

The bud, after having been inserted, must be bound by fine 
matting or worsted, and, in doing this, care must be taken not 
to move the bud in any way which will cause friction and so 
injure the tissues below it. In tying, commence below the end 
of the incision and pass the tie closely round as far as the bud, 
keeping the bud close to the stock. Continue binding closely 
until reaching the cross incision; make one or two turns above 
the cross-cut and fasten the ends of the tie. The operation is now 
completed. 

As soon as it has been ascertained that the bud has taken, 
the ties should be loosened and retied, to prevent the galling of 
the bud by the ties becommg too tight. 

When the bud has become thoroughly established, which will 
be known by the bud swelling and beginning to make new 
growth, the stock must be cut back close to the bud. Should the 
bud make a strong, soft shoot it may be necessary to support it 
for a few weeks by tying the shoot to a stake until hard, firm 
growth is attained. 

There are many other modes of budding, but the method 
described will be found the best for general use. 

[313] 



Gardening in California 



Grafting. 

Grafting is an operation in which two cut surfaces of the 
same plant or of different plants are placed so as to unite and 
grow together. The portion cut off is termed the scion or graft 
and the plant on which it is worked or grafted is called the stock. 

Whip-grafting is generally considered the best kind of graft- 
ing and is the one most extensively used. 

When the stock and the scion are of equal thickness, the wood 
of the cut surfaces when placed together, should cover each other 
completely and exactly, so that the inner bark of the stock 
touches the inner bark of the scion. 

In proceeding to operate, cut the stock in a sloping direction, 
terminating, if possible, above a bud. Then take the scion and 
cut it sloping from above and thin towards the end, the shape of 
the scion being similar to that of the stock; cut a split or tongue 
a little above the middle of the scion and a like tongue in the 
cut surface of the stock, the purpose of the tongues being to hold 
the parts together. The parts should then be secured by being 
tied with matting or other material and surrounded with graft- 
ing-wax, clay or some other substance which will exclude the air 
and wet. 

There are several other modes of grafting including Saddle- 
grafting, Cleft-grafting and Side-grafting, the object being in 
all systems to bring together the inner bark so that the sap vessels 
of the stock will fit exactly with the sap vessels of the scion, and 
to securely keep them in position until a union is effected. 

Propagation by Cuttings. 

A cutting is an entirely detached portion of a plant, usually 
a shoot or part of a shoot, having buds or buds and leaves. Cut- 
tings should be taken only from healthy plants and from parts 
of these which are not in a weakly state, and, further, only from 

[314] 



A Few Explanations and Directions 



those portions of the plants which have been exposed to full 
light and air, for, if the shoots or branches of a plant, are not in 
a condition to make growth with a supply of nourishment from 
roots of the parent plant, they cannot, when made into cuttings, 
be expected to possess sufficient energy to produce good plants. 
A good cutting should possess a certain degree of firmness also, 
for, if the shoot is exceedingly soft and full of sap, it will not 
root so freely as one which is more mature. 

Cuttings of deciduous trees and shrubs should be taken off 
after the fall of the leaf and before the rise of the sap in Spring. 
The buds on the underground part of the cutting should be 
rubbed off. In making a cutting of a soft-wooded plant, the 
leaf should be cut off close to the stem on the part which is under- 
ground when the cutting is set or planted. 

In planting a cutting of a deciduous tree or shrub, it is well 
to plant two-thirds of the cutting underground, one-third only 
being allowed to remain above the soil. 

When making cuttings, a smooth, thin-bladed, very sharp 
knife should be used, so that the cut is clean and smooth. A 
blunt or rough-edged knife leaves a rough, bruised surface which 
rarely gives good results. When the cuttings have been selected 
and a sharp knife provided, take each cutting in the left hand, 
remove three or four of the lower leaves close to the stem and 
cut through the stem in a slightly slanting direction immediately 
below a bud or joint. The cutting is then ready to be planted, 
and should, as soon as possible, be placed in the soil in the 
position where it is to root. 

Propagation by Suckers. 

Suckers are underground shoots and should be taken up with 
all their roots attached. They may be taken up at any time when 
the parent plant or tree may be safely removed. 

[315] 



Gardening in California 



Propagation by Layering. 

A Layer is a branch or shoot, part of which is introduced into 
the soil and strikes root while fed by the parent plant. The 
operation is effected by simply bending down and burying, about 
an inch deep in the soil, the branch or shoot to be layered, and 
preventing it from springing up, by placing over it a hooked 
peg firmly set in the ground. Before pegging it down, cut a slit 
in a slanting direction half through the shoot or branch; bend 
the shoot downward and place it about an inch deep in the 
ground. Fasten it securely with the hooked peg; then bend the 
point of the shoot upward until the slit in the shoot is opened 
enough to allow a very little fine soil to enter the slit. Secure 
the foot of the shoot by tying it to a stake, care being taken not 
to sever the layer entirely from the parent plant. Cover the 
slit portion with some light sandy soil and give a good watering. 
In a short time, the layers will emit roots. When the layer has 
rooted freely, sever the young plant from the parent plant and 
treat as recommended for young trees or plants. 

Offsets. 

Offsets are short, lateral branches or shoots which root where 
they rest on the soil or under its surface and thus serve for 
propagation. 

Nursery Rows. 

"Plant in nursery rows" is a term frequently used in the fore- 
going chapters. A "nursery" is a place where trees, shrubs or 
other plants are raised and grown for transplanting. The young 
plants are generally set out in lines or rows, hence the term "plant 
in nursery rows." 



[316 



A Few Explanations and Directions 



Division of the Bulbs, Etc, 

"Division of the Bulbs" is simply dividing clusters into 
single bulbs and planting them singly instead of in clusters. The 
same applies to "division of the roots," "division of the 
crowns," etc. 

Garden Frames. 

Plant Frames are generally made of redwood boards one and 
one-half inch thick. Their dimensions vary, a good serviceable 
size being six feet long by three feet in width of sash. The frame 
on which the sash rests should be eighteen inches high on the 
back and eight inches high in front so that the sash, when in 
position, will have enough slope to shed off the rain. 

A Cool or Cold Frame is one which has no artificial heating. 

A Hot Frame is one which is placed on a heap of strawy 
stable-manure or other fermenting material which has partially 
spent its heat, its temperature having fallen to about eighty 
degrees Fahrenheit. 

Hot-beds are very useful, especially in Spring, for encourag- 
ing rapid growth in tender plants or seedlings, as they supply a 
warm moist atmosphere very congenial to most of the tender 
plants. Cuttings also of various plants emit roots and grow 
much faster on a Hot-bed than when placed where there is only 
fire heat. 

To make up a Hot-bed, secure a quantity of fresh stable- 
manure and an equal quantity of tree-leaves, which have been 
recently collected ; turn them over and mix them together three or 
four times every second day for eight days. Build the heap the 
size and shape of the frame to be used, and allow an extra width 
of two or three feet all around; spread the mixture evenly in 
layers of not more than six inches each, treading each layer firmly 
as spread until the bed is built up about four feet high or thick. 

[317] 



Gardening in California 



Over the surface place a layer of ashes, sand, or leaf-mold, well 
decomposed, spreading it evenly about three inches thick. 

The Hot-bed is now ready for the frame, and after the rank 
steam has escaped, and the temperature of the air in the frame 
has fallen to eighty-five degrees Fahrenheit, it is ready for receiv- 
ing plants, cuttings or seeds. It is well to allow a little ventila- 
tion at the top of the frame night and day for a few days, after 
new beds are put up. 

Bottom Heat. 

What is meant by Bottom-heat is a bed of sand, ashes or 
other light plunging material, artificially heated either by hot 
water or steam pipes, by tanks filled with hot water, or by a hot- 
bed made of fermenting material. In this sand or ash-bed the 
pots or pans or boxes are "plunged," being buried to the rim. 
Bottom-heat is considered indispensable for propagating by cut- 
tings or seeds in early Spring. 



[318] 



Sand Reclamation 



CHAPTER XXI. 



SAND RECLAMATION. 



SAND Reclamation is a matter of considerable interest to those 
located in the coast counties of California. As the Park Com- 
mission of San Francisco has, in the process of construction 
of Golden Gate Park, overcome the difficulties of sand reclama- 
tion, an account of how this has been done and of the work 
preparatory to the construction of the Park, following the recla- 
mation, is probably the best way to treat the subject of this 
chapter. 

The sand dunes of San Francisco are situated in the extreme 
westerly portion of the city, and, bordering on the Pacific Ocean, 
lie entirely open and exposed to the storms of Winter and the 
Summer winds which blow nearly every afternoon during the 
latter season at the rate of twenty or more miles per hour. 

This sand is composed of small particles of granite, clean and 
sharp, without any vegetable matter and having no clay or other 
soil mixed with it even in the smallest proportion. On account 
of the almost constant action of the wind, it was formerly kept 
ever on the move, and in heavy gales drifted like snow, at times 
being moved in a single day to a depth of three or four feet and 
often being carried a distance of over a hundred feet. 

How to tie this moving mass of sand and to hold and bind 
it from drifting was the first problem to be solved by the Park 
builders. 

The first experiment tried was sowing barley-seed thickly 
over the entire area, harrowing and cross-harrowing the sand so 
as to cover the seed. In due course the seed sprouted and grew 
to a height of several inches, covering the sand and holding it 

[319] 



Gardening in California 



fairly well for a few months, but, on account of barley being a 
shallow rooter and an annual, dying out in a few months, it 
failed to hold the sands together after July, and the winds of 
August started them moving again. 

The next attempt was made with the Yellow Lupin (Lu- 
pinus arboreus), a strong-growing, perennial shrub which is a 
native of this section. The seeds were collected and sown broad- 
cast over a large portion of the area, but this proved successful 
only in the better protected parts of the district. 

The Sea Bent Grass (Amophylla arenaria), a native of the 
maritime countries of Europe and successfully used in nearly all 
the coast countries of that continent, was next experimented 
with. This plant had been used in Denmark perhaps more than 
in any other country, but France, Holland, Italy, Spain and also 
Great Britain had reclaimed many thousands of acres by means 
of this wonderful sand-binder. 

The seeds were imported from France, and, first of all, were 
sown in the nursery. When two years old, the plants were taken 
up and planted out in the sand-dune district where they imme- 
diately took root and, by their tremendous root-growth, held the 
sands together and prevented them from moving. 

The great superiority of the Sea Bent Grass over all others 
recommended as sand-binders is that it is almost impossible to 
bury it so deeply in the sand that its crowns cannot push through 
to the surface. Even if buried many feet deep, it works its 
strong stems up to the air where new crowns form from which 
are sent down masses of strong, fleshy roots, anchoring the grass 
so firmly that the fiercest gales have but little effect on its growth. 

This grass is also a wonderful sand collector. Eleven years 
ago, when the Park Commission of San Francisco constructed 
the drive facing the ocean along the Great Highway, the line 
of the proposed roadbed, was in many places below high water 
mark, so sand was scraped from below high water mark, in order 
to raise the roadway to the proper level. 

[320] 



Sand Reclamation 



When this was done, the slopes facing the ocean were 
planted with the Sea Bent Grass which soon took root and grew 
very strongly, the saline character of the sand evidently being 
suited to its requirements. In a few months these slopes were 
one mass of the strong, healthy grass with its thick, creeping, per- 
ennial roots anchored deeply in the sand. 

The mass of sand is thrown up from the ocean and left on 
the beach by thousands of tons, and, when dried by the sun, is 




Eucalyptus in Sand Near Coast. 

blown inland by the winds, being carried many miles unless 
obstructed. 

After the construction of the driveway, this sand, when 
moved by the wind, was caught by the grass planted on the 
slopes of the newly built road and held there, the grass pushing 
through the sand as it was piled up, until to-day there is an 
embankment formed by this drift-sand which is from ten to 

[323] 



Gardening in California 



fifteen feet higher than the roadway and from a hundred to three 
hundred feet in width, firmly kept in position by this wonderful 
grass. 

The culture of the grass is very simple. The roots are dug 
or pulled up by hand, and, if the ground to be operated on is 
reasonably level, the surface is plowed with an ordinary plow. 
A few of the roots are dropped about two feet apart into every 
third furrow and then covered by the plow, until the entire tract 
is thus planted. Where the ground is abrupt or too steep for 
plowing, holes are dug a foot deep and about two feet apart 
and a few of the roots dropped into each hole, the sand around 
the roots being pressed firm by the foot. The best season for 
planting is February or March although the grass will do well 
if planted either earlier or later in the year, provided the sand 
is moist. It should, if possible however, be set out during rainy 
weather, as at such time there is no dry sand to get about the 
roots; besides, the rain settles the sand around the roots far 
better than any treading can possibly do. 

The sand-shifting having been stopped by the Bent Grass 
and no further trouble being apprehended from drifting, the next 
operation in the work of park building to be undertaken by the 
Park Commission was planting the ground with hardy trees and 
shrubs. 

A great many different species of trees were experimented 
with, including those especially suggested by European for- 
esters, such as the Norway Maple, Sycamore, Maritime Pine, 
English Yew, Austrian Pine, the Elder and many others highly 
recommended. In exposed situations all of these, with the excep- 
tion of the Maritime Pine, failed entirely. 

At the same time many of our native trees and shrubs, in- 
cluding Monterey Cypress, Monterey Pine, Yellow Pine as well 
as Alders and Maples were set out. The Cottonwood, Scrub 
Oak, and other varieties of Oaks were also given a trial, but, 

[324] 



Sand Reclamation 



excepting the Monterey Cypress and Monterey Pine, all of them, 
like the hardier of the European introductions, did fairly well 
in the sheltered hollows only, where good soil and plenty of 
water were provided, while the Monterey Cypress and Monterey 
Pine alone stood the test of braving the storms and the blasting 
influence of the Summer winds in the more exposed places and 
the district close to the shore. 

Seeds of a great many trees were also introduced from Aus- 
tralia and New Zealand as well as from South America, and, 
much to our surprise, some of these gave fine results, the 
Acacia longifolia and the Leptospermum proving two of 
the best for this sort of work, these forming a close thicket 
of twiggy stems which provided perfect shelter for other 
species not so hardy. Eucalyptus of many species were 
set out by thousands, but only the common Blue and the 
rugged Red Gum were a success in the poorer sands, and none 
of them could stand the climatic conditions unsheltered within 
five hundred yards of the salt water. The above mentioned and 
a few other hardy varieties grew fairly well for a period of ten 
years, but after that time they seemed to become bark-bound and 
the growth became stunted, showing that the trees, after they 
begin to form heartwood, require a richer soil than that com- 
posed of pure sand. 

It therefore became necessary, in order to maintain a healthy 
vigorous growth in the young forest trees, to supply them with a 
foreign fertilizer. This was done by utilizing the street sweep- 
ings from the down-town streets which were brought out to the 
Park by electric cars, and, from these cars, distributed by carts 
and wagons among the starving trees. The change produced by 
this means was amazing. A few months after the sweepings 
were spread over the surface, the trees took on fresh growth and 
appeared to get new life and vigor, the leaves becoming darker 
and more richly colored. 

[ 325 ] 



Gardening in Californi 



In addition to the street sweepings, thousands of cubic yards 
of loam, clay, etc., have been carted into the Park each year for 
the formation and growth of lawns and shrubbery groups. 

When the sand has been bound and prevented from drifting, 
a forest of strong-growing trees established (giving the required 
shelter), and a good soil provided, the problem of park building 
becomes very much the same as when the work is undertaken on a 
piece of land possessing naturally good soil and covered with 
natural trees. 

On this thousand acre tract, which originally was a bleak 
waste of drifting, barren sand, may now be found groves of 
handsome trees, natives of many countries of both hemispheres, 
and of all the continents. Here one may see the Cedars of 
Lebanon and of Mount Atlas as well as the Deodars of the 
Himalayas, the Araucarias of Chile, Brazil and Norfolk Island, 
also the large-flowering, handsomely foliaged Magnolia of our 
Southern States, the Elms of New England, and the Sequoia, 
Cypresses, Pines, etc., of our own State. In addition may be 
found the Yews of Old England and the fragrant, feathery 
Acacias of Australia, together with groves of Bamboos, masses 
of gaily-flowered Camellias and Rhododendrons and stately 
Rubber trees, while hundreds of other varieties of trees and 
shrubs are to be seen, natives of many climes, all of them ap- 
parently happy and healthy in their new surroundings. 



[326 




Albizzia Jtilibrissiii in Flon'cr. 



Calendar of Operations 



CHAPTER XXII. 

CALENDAR OF OPERATIONS. 

IN European countries and the Eastern States of America 
many works on gardening have been written in calendar 
form, such a calendar being very convenient for reference or 
as a guide for systematic work throughout the year. 

Of course, no calendarial directions can be, at the same time, 
suitable to all the different localities or districts of our great 
State. It may be pouring rain and cold weather in Humboldt 
county and on the same day very dry and quite warm in the 
counties south of Tehachipi; we have cold frosty nights in 
Shasta county when the oranges are ripening in the county 
adjoining. While it would be impossible to provide for every 
contingency, yet, along the coast and in the great valleys, the 
difference in temperature is not so wide but that a general system 
of operation might apply to all. The seasons themselves, how- 
ever, vary so much that many circumstances must be taken into 
consideration, such as the state of the weather, the condition of 
the soil, etc. In some years, the Winter rains fall much earlier 
than in others; one season may have rainfall enough to allow 
plowing and spading to be commenced early in September, while, 
in other years, the ground may remain dry and hard until late in 
November. 

Keeping all this in view, there are submitted in this chapter, 
in the form of a Gardening Calendar, a series of hints and sug- 
gestions based on the experience of the writer, which, it is be- 
lieved, will be found useful and profitable to growers in Cali- 
fornia, it being left to the good judgment of such to make the 
necessary modifications when a season has been abnormal or if 
their locations should happen to be where the temperature goes 
to an extreme in any way. 

[329] 



Gardening in California 



JANUARY. 

If it has not already been done, have all the necessary prun- 
ing of fruit trees (including apples, pears, apricots, peaches, 
plums, etc.) attended to at once; also prune roses and other 
deciduous trees, climbers and shrubs, removing all decayed or 
weak growth. If any show signs of ill health, take up the plants 
and examine their roots; root-prune all unhealthy stock and 
replant in fresh, well-cultivated, deep, rich soil. After pruning, 
clear away all the clippings and any weeds which may be found 
either in shrub-groups, flower-beds or walks. Weeds should 
never be allowed to get foothold in any well-kept garden. 

When the hedges have all been clipped and the place has 
been given a general clean-up, a clear, dry day should be selected 
when the soil is in good condition, neither too dry nor yet so 
wet that it will stick to the spade; after giving the soil a good 
coat of at least three inches of old, well-rotted manure, spade 
the surface of all shrubbery-groups and flower-beds to the depth 
of at least one foot (except where the operation would interfere 
too much with the roots of the plants), leaving the soil in as 
rough and lumpy a condition as possible so as to allow the atmos- 
phere to penetrate the soil. 

Plant out all kinds of fruit trees and also all kinds of decidu- 
ous trees and shrubs, selecting a day when the air is soft and the 
soil in good condition, avoiding days when the wind blows cold 
and dry, or the soil is wet and soggy. 

In laying out new rose-beds, first trench the soil to the depth 
of two feet and mix the soil freely with, at least, six inches of 
half -decomposed horse-manure. The soil should be of a good 
strong nature, not too sandy but not a heavy clay; a good mel- 
low loam of any color, if well-enriched, suits the rose, a fairly 
well-sheltered situation being selected. 

January is a good month for laying out new ground, making 
walks, etc. 

[330] 



t3 



o 




Calendar of Operations 



In the Greenhouse or glasshouse the principal work is keep- 
ing everything as bright and fresh as possible, allowing no dead 
or dying leaves or dirt of any kind to accumulate on any bench 
or pot or even under the plant-benches or stages. It is advisable 
to syringe very little during this month, and only on bright, 
warm days and in the early morning. It will suffice to dampen 
the floors and plant-stages (or tables) once or twice a day; 
especially be careful not to syringe plants which are in bloom, 
else the display of flowers will be short. 

This being the coldest month of the year, and flowers scarce 
in the open, a good display of color should be aimed at, Roman 
Hyacinths, Begonias, Cinerarias, Euphorbias, Rondeletias, Pri- 
mulas, Poinsettias, etc., being utilized. We should keep the 
greenhouse gay and cheerful during the entire month. 

Keep the temperature between fifty-five and sixty-five de- 
grees Fahrenheit at night, allowing a rise of ten degrees in the 
daytime. 

Give larger pots to pot-bound palms or other evergreen, orna- 
mental-leaved plants which have healthy roots. Examine each 
individual plant, and, if the roots are not in a healthy condition, 
cut back the diseased roots to healthy tissue and repot the plant 
in a pot of the same size or even in a smaller one, using good, 
fresh soil composed of two thirds turfy-loam and one-third leaf- 
mold with enough sand to keep the whole open and free, 
together with a sprinkling of bone-meal or crushed bones. 

Sow seeds of Lobelias, Pyrethrums, Celosias, Wigandias, and 
other bedding foliage-plants, placing them in sandy leaf-mold 
and giving them partial shade until germination. 



333] 



Gardening in California 



FEBRUARY. 

The old adage "as the day lengthens the cold strengthens" 
is just as true in California as it is in the East, and should be 
carefully remembered by all who grow, in the flower-garden, 
plants which are at all tender. Cinerarias, for instance, may be 
carried over a few cold nights by being covered with light cot- 
ton sheeting and will thus give grand results in the early Spring, 
whereas, if not protected during cold nights, they will be a 
failure. The old favorite Spring-flowering Doronicum should 
now receive special attention and will be found useful in beds 
and borders. Plants which have been transplanted in the Fall 
or have been left undisturbed from the previous season will give 
good results in the Spring, while those whose roots are divided 
at this season, will flower late in the Summer thus giving a longer 
season of flower. 

Ivies growing on walls should be trimmed in, fairly close 
to the wall or fence, as they quickly become covered with new 
leaves at this season. Rough walls have an attractive look if 
covered with Ivy, Virginia Creeper or Boston Ivy. Ivy is also 
useful for planting under trees where grass and other plants die 
out, or for rambling over rocks, tree stumps or rooteries. 

In the flower-borders, the Iris reticulata and Iris major are, 
during this month, developing their deliciously fragrant flowers 
and deserve a little extra attention in the way of the ground 
being kept clear of weeds, of being mulched with well-decom- 
posed manure, and, should the season be inclined to be dry, of 
being given a copious supply of water at the roots. The same 
instructions should be followed in the treatment of Hyacinths, 
Tulips, Anemones, Ranunculus, Daffodils and other Spring- 
flowering bulbs. 

Seeds of numerous species of annuals will have to be sown 
during the next few weeks. The hardy kinds may be sown in 
the open ground in sunny, sheltered situations, in well-prepared 

[334] 



Calendar of Operations 



soil when the weather is fine and the soil is in a fairly dry con- 
dition. Salpiglossis, Phlox Drummondii, and Zinnia, also 
Asters, Petunias, etc., should be sown, about this date, on a mild 
hotbed which has an even covering of finely-sifted soil two inches 
deep, thoroughly moistened before the seed is planted. The 
seeds should be thinly sown in rows and covered with finely- 
sifted soil to the depth of one-quarter of an inch ; shade the soil 
until germination has taken place, care being taken that the young 
seedlings are not allowed to flag or wilt or even to become dry. 
When the seedlings are large enough to be pricked off, they 
should be planted, three inches apart, in moderately rich soil in 
boxes (four inches deep) or singly in two and one-half inch pots. 

Insert cuttings of Alternantheras, Irisines, Heliotropes, 
Petunias, etc., in pots or boxes filled with a mixture of one-half 
finely-sifted leaf-mold, one-quarter loam and one-quarter clean 
white sand, with a half-inch layer of sand on the surface; give 
water enough to settle the sand about the cuttings and plunge 
in a bottom heat of about seventy-five degrees Fahrenheit in 
greenhouse or hot frame, keeping them in a close atmosphere 
and shaded from sunshine for about ten days and then gradually 
exposing them to light and air. Seedling Lobelias and Pyre- 
thrums, sown last month, should now be pricked out about two 
inches apart in light rich soil in pans or boxes. Place them in a 
close, warm atmosphere shading them until they re-root in their 
new soil when they may be gradually inured to air and light. 

Dahlias. If an increase of the number of plants is desired, 
old roots should now be put upon a bed having a mild bottom- 
heat, the tubers being covered up to the collar with light leaf- 
mold or other light sandy soil. Syringe them twice daily, and, 
as soon as the young shoots have made two or three joints in 
length, slip them off and place them singly in small pots filled 
with sand and leaf-mold, half and half, well-mixed together; 
then plunge them in a close, warm frame or greenhouse and, 
when they are rooted, gradually expose them to air and light. 

[335] 



Gardening in California 



Hollyhock seeds should be sown early in the month in order 
to get good flowering plants the first season. East Lothian 
Stocks, Lobelia cardinalis, Verbenas, Celosias and also Pent- 
stemons and Antirrhinums should likewise be sown early in 
this month. Begonia tubers, lifted in the Fall, should now be 
placed in boxes, on a thin layer of light soil and half-covered 
with the same kind of soil. Start them growing under cool treat- 
ment and keep them in a cool frame until planting-out time. 
The stock of plants may be increased by dividing tubers which 
show many buds. The cut surfaces of these divisions should be 
sprinkled with sulphur-dust and allowed to dry before potting. 
The tuberous Begonia should be much more generally seen in our 
gardens than it is, as it is very hardy, is easily grown, and remains 
longer in bloom than most of our Summer-flowering plants, com- 
mencing to flower early in June and giving a profusion of gor- 
geously-colored blossoms until late in November. It delights in 
a light rich soil, an eastern exposure, a sheltered, partially-shaded 
situation and abundance of water. Anyone giving the tuberous 
Begonia these simple conditions will be generously rewarded for 
the little trouble and expense devoted to this beautiful exotic. 

Where flowers of Sweet-peas are desired early, seeds should be 
sown, in the first week of this month (in well-prepared, rich gar- 
den soil) about three-quarters of an inch deep, either in rows or 
in small circles. As soon as the young plants are about four 
inches high they should be given a trellis or other light support to 
climb over. 

Sow also in the open ground, as early in the month as the 
soil is in the proper condition, that is when the soil is moist but 
not too wet or sticky, Eschscholtzias, Lupins, Poppies, Corn- 
flower, Nemophylas, and other hardy wildflowers and annuals. 



[336] 



Calendar of Operations 



GREENHOUSE. 

If the repotting of the general collection of plants rec- 
ommended last month is not finished, that work should 
be attended to as early this month as possible. As the days 
lengthen, more ventilation should be given, the ventilators being 
closed early in the afternoon and the temperature allowed to 
reach eighty-five or ninety degrees Fahrenheit by sunheat. Should 
greenfly, scale or other insects have appeared, boil one pound of 
whale-oil soap in one gallon of rain water (or larger quantities 
in the same proportion) and use one-half pint of this mixture in 
four gallons of rain water for syringing twice weekly; if mealy- 
bug is troublesome, add eight ounces of petroleum. When it is 
necessary to use the petroleum mixture, it should be done about 
five or six o'clock in the evening on dull days only. By using 
this petroleum emulsion occasionally, much labor will be saved 
in checking the spread of mealy-bug and the leaves will become 
glossy. 

Ferns growing freely should be afforded abundance of mois- 
ture at the roots, and a moist atmosphere must be maintained at 
all times, this being, for successful fern culture, an absolute neces- 
sity. Ligodium scandens, a climbing fern suitable for covering 
walls, trellises, etc., requires frequent attention at this season. 
In order to display the plant effectively, each frond should be 
secured to a fine wire; the plants should be given abundance of 
water at the roots and syringed frequently. Where it is desir- 
able to increase the number of plants, in the fern family, divide 
the old plants into sections, and pot them in suitable sizes, care 
being taken that the plants are put into the smallest sizes of pots 
in which they may be comfortably placed, in soil composed of 
one-third mellow loam, one-third leaf-mold and one-third peat 
with enough sand to keep the whole open for free passage of 
water. Place them in a shaded portion of the greenhouse, syring- 
ing morning and evening, keeping the temperature at sixty 
degrees Fahrenheit at night, allowing it to rise to seventy-five 

[339] 



Gardening in California 



degrees Fahrenheit by day, and carefully preventing cold 
draughts of air from passing through the house. 

Hanging baskets should now receive a thorough over-hauling. 
If a basket requires replanting, line it first with moss and place 
about one inch of soil over this; place the plants in the basket 
and fill the basket with lumpy, fibrous loam and a little peat. 
Asparagus Springerii and Asparagus plumosa are excellent plants 
for growing in baskets as are also the Davalia ferns, the Boston 
fern and many of the Adiantums. Many of the small-flowering 
tuberous Begonias also make excellent subjects, especially where 
hung above the eye when their lovely flowers show to good 
advantage. 

Propagate by cuttings, Coleus, Pilea muscosa, Tradescantias, 
Ficus, and Panicum; also propagate Begonia Rex from leaves 
and Isolepis by division. 

Caladiums and Alocacias, having rested during the Winter, 
may now be repotted. Shake the old soil from the tubers and pot 
them in small pots, allowing not more than a half-inch of soil 
between the tubers and the side of the pot. They should be 
placed in soil consisting of equal parts of fibrous loam, leaf-soil 
and peat, with enough silver-sand to keep the whole sweet and 
open. After potting, place them in a mild bottom heat of about 
seventy degrees Fahrenheit and a top temperature of about sixty 
degrees Fahrenheit at night, allowing a rise of about ten degrees 
in the daytime; water sparingly until growth has begun. When 
the plants have filled the pots with roots, change them to larger 
pots, taking care that an inch of fresh soil surrounds the ball of 
earth around the plants; this will necessitate a pot two sizes or 
inches wider than the one the plant formerly occupied. In repot- 
ting, use the same soil as recommended for the first potting, but, 
in addition, mix a little very old well-rotted half-dry cow or 
horse-manure with it as the Caladiums, like most other large- 
leaved, rapid-growing plants, love good rich feeding and plenty 
of water during the growing season. 

[340] 



Calendar of Operations 



Gloxinias, Achimenes, and Tsedies may also be started and 
treated in much the same way recommended for the Caladiums; 
see that the pots are well supplied with drainage material by 
filling the pots at least one-quarter of their depth with crocks or 
broken bricks, placing one flat piece over the hole in the bottom 
of the pot and, above that, small pieces not over half an inch 
thick; cover this with moss to keep the soil from washing into 
the drainage material. 

Rearrange the plants from time to time as this will tend to 
keep them in better condition and more shapely in appearance; 
wash the pots, sponge the leaves, etc. ; also wash the woodwork 
and give a general cleanup to the house ; in short, neatness should 
be in evidence in the greenhouse. 

MARCH. 

If wet weather or any other cause has rendered it impossible 
to carry out the directions given for last month, these should 
now be proceeded with. This is the best month for planting 
Eucalyptus, Acacias and other semi-tender trees and shrubs, as 
directed under their respective headings. All vacant ground 
should be manured and spaded where required; weeds should be 
destroyed wherever found, and the ground stirred lightly with 
the hoe or rake, in order to destroy nests of slugs and harmful 
insects. Ground which was roughly spaded last month should 
now be hoed and raked when moderately dry. The borders of 
the shrubbery and other ground, where flowers are to be planted 
or where seeds are to be sown, should be worked over, levelled, 
and raked preparatory to planting and seeding. 

If they have not been already sown, plant seeds of Sweet 
Peas, Nemophyllas and the other annuals recommended last 
month, sowing them in circular patches in small groups, or in 
beds or rows where plenty of space is available. Plant out 
young plants of Carnations, Phloxes, Violets, Pentstemons, 

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Gardening in California 



Campanulas, Columbines, Japanese Anemones and other hardy, 
perennial flowering-plants in well-prepared, fairly-rich soil. 
Plant out also Gladiolas and other hardy bulbous roots (includ- 
ing Begonias and Caladium esculentum), mulching among the 
plants with a light sprinkling of well-rotted manure. 

This month is the most favorable for giving the Rockery a 
little overhauling in the way of arranging such plants as Sedums 
and Mesembryanthemums, The especially strong-growing vari- 
eties will generally be found to have outgrown the space allowed 
them and should be dug out and replaced by small plants or 
cuttings, cuttings generally being preferred as it takes only a 
few weeks for them to root and to begin to bloom again. Cras- 
sulas. Cactus, Echeverias, Aloes, Auriculas, etc., should be ex- 
amined, and, where necessary, should receive a top dressing of rich 
light soil to encourage fresh growth; those having tall flower- 
stems should be neatly staked in order to support their heavy 
flower-heads in stormy weather. Arabis, Saxifragia, and other 
Spring-flowering rock-plants should have the ground about them 
examined and the surface top-dressed, and, as soon as the bloom- 
ing season is over, their flower-stems cut off, while, when neces- 
sary, the plants should be severely cut back to encourage fresh, 
vigorous flowering-growth for the following season. 

When space is available, sow varieties of wildflowers. In 
any out of the way spot not used for any special purpose, have 
the ground spaded and sown with seeds of the different strong- 
growing species such as Lupinus bicolor, Collinsia bicolor, 
Eschscholtzia, etc., also Shirley and Iceland Poppies, Fox-Gloves, 
the common sweet Mignonette, and Nasturtium both climbing 
and dwarf, not forgetting the free-spreading sweet Allysum as 
it will continue flowering late in the Autumn when most of the 
others are past. 



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Lazvn and Driveivay. 



Calendar of Operation 



GREENHOUSE AND FRAMES. 

Alternanthera, Irisine and all bedding plants should 
receive their final transplanting preparatory to hardening 
off. The small-growing dwarf species, such as Alternan- 
thera, are better grown in boxes (the dimensions of which 
should be about fifteen inches in width, twenty-two inches 
in length and four inches in depth) and should be planted in 
light rich soil about two inches apart. Boxes of this size are also 
used in growing Asters, Stocks, Verbenas, Petunias, and most 
of the low-growing annuals. Dahlias, Hollyhocks, and all 
strong, tall-growing, flowering and ornamental plants do better 
if grown singly in pots. 

Sow, early in the month, seeds of Stocks, Asters, Calliopsis, 
Dianthus, Cosmos, Ipomeas, Marigolds, Phlox Drummondii, 
etc., and, for succession, Lobelias, Zinnias, and Gailardias. 

Continue the work recommended for last month in the green- 
house, keeping up a warm, moist atmosphere to encourage vigor- 
ous growth. As the flowering-plants, such as Azaleas, go out of 
bloom, pick off all the seed-pods and place the plants in a warm, 
moist atmosphere to induce them to make fresh growth, shading 
them during hot sunshine. Plants in need of repotting should 
be attended to as soon as they are fairly started into growth, using 
good fibrous peat, leaf-mold, a little broken charcoal and coarse 
silver-sand for the potting. Work the soil firmly and evenly 
round the old ball with a thin rammer, making it as firm as that of 
the old ball. Syringe the plants freely with soft water while they 
are making their growth; as growth progresses give them more 
air, and, when completed, place them in the open air in a cool 
shaded situation (avoiding cold draughts), and plunge the pots 
in ashes to about half their depth. 

Caladium plants which were started as advised a few weeks 
ago will now be ready for repotting in pots two sizes larger than 
those they occupy. The soil should be composed of one-third 

[345] 



Gardening in California 



loam, one-third leaf-mold and one-third silver-sand with a 
sprinkling of pulverized cow-manure mixed with the soil. To 
encourage vigorous root action, warm humid air should be pro- 
vided; close the ventilators early in the afternoon and conserve 
the sun-heat; syringe the plants freely with soft tepid water and 
shade them during the bright sunshine. 

Repot Coleus, Begonias, etc., as their pots become filled with 
roots. 

The majority of greenhouse plants may be propagated during 
this month. As a general rule, those cuttings root most readily 
which are taken from plants that have formed half-ripe wood. 
In the case of Begonias or other soft-wooded plants, cuttings may 
be taken from any portion of the young shoots, provided a clean 
cut is made immediately below a joint and with a sharp knife. 

APRIL. 

Nymphsea, Lotus or other water plants should be planted or 
replanted early in April before the young leaves have made much 
growth. 

If the water cannot be run off the pond, it is a good plan to 
fill, with loam and old manure in equal proportions, the required 
number of wicker-baskets (boxes made of laths will answer for 
the same purpose), plant in each basket a few good crowns, cover- 
ing the surface with an inch of coarse sand or fine gravel, and 
then sink them in the desired positions in the water. For strong- 
growing varieties, such as the Nymphsea Marliacca, Nymphsea 
albida, Nymphsea Cromatella, Nymphsea tuberosa and also the 
Lotus family, larger bodies of soil are required in order to have 
them at their best. 

In the case of ponds where the water can be run off, mounds 
of soil, held together by being surrounded with big round stones, 
should be made, the plants set out and the pond quickly filled. 

It should be remembered that a large number of crowns on a 
plant is not conducive to free-flowering. 

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Calendar of Operations 



In addition to the Lilies themselves, attention should be given 
to the many beautiful plants which thrive in shallow water or on 
the banks bordering a pond, either partially submerged or 
in the adjacent moist soil. For partially submerged spots 
or shallow water the plume-like Papyrus antiquorum and 
the Cyperius or Umbrella plant, the Calla lily and all of the 
Rushes and Water-grasses are recommended, while the Ponto- 
deria cordata, the Saggitarias and the Aponogetons all add to the 
attractiveness of the pond or water-garden. Where occasional 
flowering takes place, many handsome plants may be grown, any 
of which can be planted now. These should include the gorgeous 
Japanese Iris, the Spirea Aruncus, many of the Bamboos, 
Funkias, etc. 

A number of the bedding plants such as Fuchsias, Geraniums, 
the earlier Lobelias, Pyrethrums, etc., should now be placed out 
of doors in sheltered situations, and all other bedding plants, as 
soon as they are the required size, should be gradually hardened 
off, care being taken not to expose them suddenly from hot green- 
house or hot frame to the open air. It is advisable to keep them 
under glass for a week or ten days with the ventilators open both 
by day and by night, and, for the first few days after being placed 
out of doors, they should be shaded during bright sunshine by 
being covered with some light cheese-cloth or similar light 
shading. 

If not alread)^ done, Cannas and Phloxes should have their 
roots taken up and the crowns divided into bunches (two or 
three stems to each bunch) and planted at once in well-enriched, 
loamy soil; plant the Cannas about three feet apart and the 
Phloxes about eighteen inches apart. 

If the stock of Dahlias is short, cuttings may still be taken. 
Pot the cuttings singly in two-inch pots and plunge them into a 
little bottom heat where they will soon take root. These late 
stock cuttings make excellent late-flowering effects, continuing 
well into November. Shrubs which have been transplanted 

[347] 



Gardening in California 



during the last few months should be closely examined, and, if the 
weather be inclined to the dry side, given a good soaking of water 
at the roots; then they should be well mulched with old manure. 
Spray them with water late in the afternoon of dry days to 
encourage the swelling of buds and the making of fresh growth, 
Roses will now be making good growth, and the buds should 
be thinned according to the strength of the variety. Keep the soil 
open by stirring it with the hoe, especially after rain or after 
watering artificially, as this prevents undue evaporation. Should 
the green fly attack the leaves, spray them with the mixture of 
whale-oil soap and tobacco-juice in the evening, and hose off the 
plants the following morning with clear water. Should one appli- 
cation not be effective, spray again the following evening, using 
the hose again next morning to wash off the soap. Even a third 
similar application may sometimes be necessary. Some use 
quassia-extract in place of the whale-oil soap with the tobacco, 
and apply it in similar way. One of the worst enemies of the 
Rose is the Rose-leaf Roller, for which the sprayer should also 
be used. In addition to this, examine the plants daily and squeeze 
the grubs between the finger and thumb. Should mildew appear, 
apply flowers of sulphur. The best time to do this is in the early 
morning while the dew is on the leaves. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Indian Azaleas which have finished blooming, should, 
as recommended last month, have their seed-pods removed 
and, if necessary, be given larger pots. This is a good time to put 
in cuttings of the Autumn favorite Chrysanthemums. Select 
strong, short-jointed, young wood. Insert the cuttings in sandy 
leaf-mold and place them in a cold frame, shading them for a 
few days during sunshine and giving them a slight sprinkling with 
the watering-pot in the evening before closing the sashes. As 
soon as the young plants are well rooted, pot them singly in 

[348] 



Calendar of Operations 



two-inch pots using soil composed of three parts turfy-loam, 
one part sandy leaf-mold and one part old, well-decomposed 
horse-manure, with a little bone-meal. Be careful that all the 
ingredients are well-mixed together and see that proper drainage 
is afforded. Pot the plants firmly and return the plants to the 
cold frame; keep them close for a few days and syringe them 
lightly overhead at least once a day. Should the green fly 
appear, dip the heads of the plants in softsoap and water. 

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine and other fibrous-rooted Begonias 
will now require attention. Having washed clean a sufficient 
number of thumb-pots and attended to the drainage, fill each 
pot loosely with sandy leaf-soil to the rim; make a hole in the 
middle, insert a cutting and fill the hole with silver-sand, making 
the soil firm about the cutting; plunge them in a place where 
they will get a little bottom heat, say about eighty degrees 
Fahrenheit, standing them closely together. Each cutting being 
struck singly in a pot, it is not necessary to disturb the roots at 
next potting. 

Sow seeds of Primula sinensis in well-drained, shallow pans 
filled with soil composed of light loam, leaf-mold and silver- 
sand mixed in equal parts and sifted through a sieve with a half- 
inch mesh. Having made the soil firm and level, sow the seeds 
evenly and press them into the soil with a piece of smooth dry 
wood; cover the seeds lightly with fine particles of sandy leaf- 
mold; water with a fine rose and cover the pans with a 
piece of glass on which place a thin layer of moss. Keep the 
moss damp until the seeds germinate; place the plants in a tem- 
perature of about sixty degrees Fahrenheit; shade them during 
the sunshine and see that the soil does not become dry. Gradu- 
ally inure the young plants to light and air, and, when they make 
four leaves, transplant them into shallow pans, an inch or two 
apart, using the same soil as recommended for the seed. 

It is now also the time of year to put in cuttings of Coleus, 
Acalyphas and other soft-wooded plants. See that the young 

[349] 



Gardening in California 



plants of this class are not allowed to get pot-bound. Acalyphas 
especially should be given plenty of pot-room as they require 
good cultivation. 

In potting young plants use rich loam, half-decayed leaf- 
soil and sand, with a good sprinkling of old manure and a little 
bone-meal; keep the foliage clean by sponging the leaves, as 
overhead watering is liable to cause the racemes to decay; grow 
the plants in a warm, moist atmosphere. 



MAY. 

Sow seeds of Cowslips and hardy Primroses early in the 
month, either in a cool, shady border or in boxes in a cold frame 
where they should be kept shaded from sunshine until germin- 
ation. Seedlings, well-grown, generally give better results than 
those propagated by division of the roots. As soon as the young 
plants are large enough to be handled, prick them out in a shady, 
well-sheltered border in a light soil, giving them plenty of water; 
plant them in their permanent quarters in September or October 
where they will give fine effects during the following Spring. 

Annuals, the seeds of which were sown some weeks ago in 
the flower-border and other vacant spaces, should now receive 
attention in the way of thinning, in order that they may not 
become crowded. Before thinning, give the ground a good 
soaking with water so that the roots may be the more easily 
drawn from the soil. Should there be any danger of loss from 
slugs or other insects, it would be well to defer the final thin- 
ning until the young plants are at least three inches high. It is 
well however to err on the side of excessive thinning, as crowded 
annuals always look poor and insignificant and bloom for only 
a short time. After thinning, mulch lightly with old manure 
about half an inch deep. 

A further sowing of any subjects which will come into flower 

[350] 



^ 



<-^ 







Calendar of Operations 



late in the Autumn is now in order. This might include Sweet- 
peas, Poppies, Cornflowers, etc. 

Border Carnations should have their flower-stems tied loosely 
to neat stakes painted brown or green, and the soil of the beds 
should be hoed after each watering, never being allowed to crack 
or become baked. 

Bedding-out of all the tenderer species such as Alternan- 
thera, Coleus, Cockscomb, Irisine, etc., should be finished this 
month, cloudy days or the later hours of the afternoon or eve- 
ning being selected for the work. 

Should the planting of the hardier subjects, such as Pentste- 
mons. Antirrhinums, Gailardias, Dahlias, Lobelia cardinalis, 
etc., have been delayed, they must be planted out as early this 
month as possible; select favorable weather, avoiding cold days 
or days on which the wind is strong or the sun very hot. Plant 
them in the evening and give them a thorough watering imme- 
diately. It is necessary to give the soil a good watering a few 
hours before starting to plant, and on no account plant out young 
bedding stock when the soil is at all dry even if it be so only on 
the surface. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Begonias, started some weeks ago, will now require 
larger pots; allow two sizes larger where the plants are 
in vigorous growth; pot in soil composed of loam, leaf-mold and 
sharp sand, with a sprinkling of bone-meal or old cow-manure 
mixed through it for the tuberous section; for the fibrous 
division of the family, add a little peat to the mixture. 

Give additional pot-room, as required, to all soft-wooded or 
fine-foliaged plants; also tie, prune or stake as required to keep 
the plants in good shape. 

Prick off seedlings of Primula sinensis. Cinerarias and Cal- 
ceolarias in pans or small boxes, planting them in soil composed 
of leaf-mold and silver-sand with a little fibrous-loam added. 

[353] 



Gardening in California 



Place the plants in a close frame and shade them during the hot 
sunshine, avoiding cold draughts of dry air. 

The tubers of the handsome, Winter-blooming Gesneria 
should now be started. Place five or six tubers in a six-inch pot, 
in soil composed of two-thirds fibrous loam and one-third peat, 
with a little leaf-mold and sand to keep the soil open. Cover 
the tubers to the depth of half an inch; place them in the warm- 
est corner of the greenhouse and give them water as required at 
the roots but avoid sprinkling the leaves as that will spot them. 

I JUNE. 

Neatness and cleanliness should always be evident in the 
flower-borders, spent flowers, faded leaves and weeds being 
removed at least once a week and the surface of the soil stirred 
frequently with the push-hoe or hand-fork. 

Continue to stake and neatly tie in Carnations and all plants 
requiring support, doing this before the stems begin to fall or 
bend over. Vacant spaces, rendered so by the passing of the 
late-Spring flowers, may be planted after being fertilized and 
spaded, Dahlias, Salvias, Chrysanthemums, etc., being utilized 
for late-Fall flowering. 

Dahlias, of course, all require stakes which should be set 
before the work of planting proceeds, and the shoots ought to 
be fastened loosely to the stakes so that they may not be broken 
by the wind. 

Roses should have all spent flowers removed, partly for 
appearance's sake and partly as a relief to the plants. After the 
first crop of flowers is past, sprinkle a little bone-meal or other 
artificial fertilizer around the plants and stir the surface of the 
soil, leaving it a little rough so that when water is applied, which 
should be done immediately, the water will wash the fertilizer 
rootward. A few hours later, or as soon as the soil will work 
freely, dress the surface neatly with the rake. 

[354] 



Calendar of Operation 



Climbing roses, especially the strong-growing, free-flowering 
varieties, should have the )^oung shoots secured to the wires or the 
trellises. If their roots are in soil which is light and dry, abun- 
dance of water should be given and immediately followed by 
a light mulching. 

Attend at this time of the year to the regulating and thinning 
of climbing plants generally; where they are crowded, thin them 
out, and, where plants have not filled their allotted space, some 
shoots should be laid in for the purpose. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Chrysanthemums should now be in condition to be trans- 
planted into their flowering pots, the exact date for pot- 
ting being however of not so much importance as the condi- 
tion and quantity of roots in the pot. Unless the roots show a 
network around the ball, repotting should be deferred until this 
condition prevails. When giving them their final potting, use 
soil composed of any good, strong, turfy-loam mixed freely with 
old horse-manure and a little sand. As Chrysanthemums require 
a large amount of water, the drainage of the pots should be 
ample and carefully placed so as to prevent waterlogging. After 
potting, place them thickly together on a cindered or ash-covered 
surface in a sheltered position, out of doors. 

The dryness of the air at this season will neccessitate the con- 
stant damping of the paths and stages of the greenhouse. Open 
all ventilators early in the morning, closing them again early 
in the evening; syringe ferns and all smooth-leaved and orna- 
mental-leaved plants not showing flower, with tepid water, but 
carefully avoid syringing with cold water or water with a tem- 
perature lower than the air of the greenhouse at the time of 
syringing. Plants, showing flower-trusses, should receive occa- 
sionally weak manure-water or a top-dressing of some artificial 
manure. 

[355] 



Gardening in Californi 



Sow seeds of Calceolaria, for succession, in shallow pots or 
pans, carefully drained and containing soil, consisting of loam, 
leaf-mold and silver-sand in equal parts, which has been passed 
through a half-inch meshed sieve. The soil should be pressed 
firm and watered a few hours before putting in the seeds which 
should be sown evenly. Barely cover the seeds with a light 
sprinkling of silver-sand; place them in a cold frame or hand 
glass, facing the North; keep them closely shaded until they 
germinate when air may be admitted gradually; sprinkle them 
overhead morning and evening. 

Put in cuttings of Coleus for the Winter decorations and 
repot Cinerarias, Begonias, and other soft-wooded plants as 
required. 

JULY. 

Gladiolas are now much benefited by a dressing of old stable- 
manure, followed by copious applications of water. When 
nourished in this manner, the plants will grow to a large size 
and give fine spikes of large, deep-colored flowers. 

Dahlias also should receive plenty of water, and, when in 
heavy bloom, they will be greatly benefited by a generous 
supply of liquid manure twice a week; no plant repays generous 
treatment and good cultivation better than the Dahlia. Thin 
out weak shoots and attend to the staking and tying in of the 
shoots ; also thin the flower-buds and cut off all spent flowers. 

Early-flowering varieties of Chrysanthemums should now be 
making rapid growth. If weak shoots appear they should be 
removed at once; see that they are well attended to in the way 
of watering and repotting, for if the plants are allowed to suffer 
from lack of pot-room or of sufficient moisture, the result will be 
weak stems and small flowers. Attend to the staking and tying 
of the plants in order to guard against injury from strong winds. 

Deciduous shrubs, such as Weigelias, Deutzias, Mock Orange, 
etc., should have the shoots, which have flowered this season, 

[356] 



Calendar of Operation 



cut back to the stronger young shoots, and all weak shoots 
removed entire!}'. Care should be taken that they receive plenty 
of water at the root during the growing season. 

Seeds of Mignonette may now be sown, selecting if possible 
a cool situation facing the North. After sowing, shade the soil 
with some light material, such as a thin layer of straw, to keep 
the soil from baking until germination. Sow also seeds of Pan- 
sies, Hollyhocks, Canterbury Bells, Intermediate Stocks, Wall- 
flowers, Anemone coronaria. Carnations, and other early Spring- 
flowering plants. By sowing seeds this month, one can 
count on having strong plants ready to take the place of those 
which finish blooming in October, and the plants which begin to 
show bloom in early Winter will keep the flower-beds bright 
with color until late in the Spring. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Put in the last of the Poinsettia cuttings for the year 
as early in the month as practicable, care being taken that 
the young plants do not suffer from want of water, as few 
plants show the effects of the lack of it more quickly than the 
Poinsettia. As it is generally desired that the largest plants 
possible be grown in small pots, a rich soil should be used in 
potting. A compost consisting of good turfy-loam, good peat 
or leaf-mold, and silver-sand, with a sprinkling of bone-meal 
will be found suitable. In potting, the size of the future pot 
should be borne in mind as really fine plants may be grown in 
six or seven-inch pots; so, in the first potting, three-and-a-half- 
inch pots will be found large enough. When the cuttings are 
first potted, return them to the cutting bed and keep them shaded 
closely for a few days, syringing with tepid water several times 
daily until they form fresh roots when they can be gradually ex- 
posed to the sunlight. This treatment will cause the leaves to 
be retained almost down to the soil. In the Southern portions 

[357] 



Gardening in Californi 



of our State, where this plant gives such splendid results in the 
open air, the young plants may be set out in their permanent 
quarters about the beginning of the present month, a sunny, 
sheltered situation and a fairly-rich, light soil being selected. 

Transfer seedling Cinerarias and Primulas to three-inch or 
four-inch pots, selecting soil of equal parts loam and leaf-mold 
with a little sand for the potting material. 

Palms should now be in full growth and should be copiously 
syringed night and morning and have weak manure-water 
applied to the roots at least once a week. Should any scale or 
other insects appear, give a thorough cleansing with soap-suds or 
other insecticide (using a sponge or soft rag when washing), 
going over the leaves two or even three times until they are 
perfectly clean. 

At this dry season. Ferns should be given a plentiful supply 
of water; the air of the house should be maintained as cool and 
moist as possible by keeping the floors and benches constantly 
wet. Keep the plants shaded at least eight hours of the day. 

Continue to propagate Acalyphas and Coleus for Fall and 
Winter decoration. 

AUGUST. 

Cuttings of any favorite variety of Roses may now be put in ; 
select, for this purpose, half-ripe wood or short-jointed wood 
which has perfected its flowers. The cuttings should be taken 
off with a heel or cut just below a joint. Pieces of stems about 
four inches in length will be found sufficiently long for cuttings. 
Insert them in a shady, sheltered corner in sandy soil and let 
them remain there until growth commences, or, better still, insert 
them singly in small pots in a glass frame and plunge the pots in 
cool ashes, shading them for a few hours in the middle of the 
day. They should be sprinkled, occasionally, overhead with 
water and the frame should be kept moderately close. Frequent 

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Calendar of Operation 



attention must be given in order to maintain the flower-garden 
in good and attractive condition; all spent blossoms should be 
removed. 

All annuals whose flowering season is over should be taken 
up, the soil manured and the spaces planted with late-flowering 
plants. Attend closely to the cultivation and irrigation of all 
Autumn-flowering plants, such as Dahlias, Cannas, Chrysan- 
themums, etc., giving copious supplies of water at the roots and 
also giving manure-water as required; stir the soil frequently 
and rake off all weeds. 

Keep the ground about Violets well-cultivated and watered, 
removing all side shoots and runners. A light mulch of half- 
rotted manure will benefit them greatly during this season. 

Begonias, both the fibrous-rooted and also the bulbous sec- 
tions will now be in bloom. Be careful that they do not suffer 
from want of water at the roots and also overhead, for they 
should be sprinkled from above in the evening. A mulching of 
very old cow-manure will be found beneficial and will greatl}^ 
assist in prolonging their season of bloom. 

Sow seeds of Anemone coronaria, mixing the seeds with fine 
sand before sowing; when the seedlings are two inches high, set 
them out in rows in a shady, cool, sheltered situation. 

Also put in seeds of Silene pendula and Forget-me-not for 
early-Spring flowering. These too should have a cool, sheltered 
spot, being transplanted a few inches apart when ready; plant 
them out, where it is desired that they flower, early in November. 

Rocheas, as they are now classed, are very showy subjects, 
especially the scarlet-flowered species (Rochea coccinea), which 
blooms so freely all through July, August and September. When 
it is desired to increase the stock of these, cuttings should be 
inserted. They should be placed in three-inch or four-inch pots 
filled with sand and old lime-mortar or broken brick, mixed with 
a little loam. They should occupy a cool position facing the 
North where they will be found to readily take root. This 

[361] 



Gardening in Californi 



free-flowering succulent should be seen more commonly as it 
grows and blooms freely with little care and requires no artificial 
irrigation. 

GREENHOUSE. 

The Alocacias and other ornamental, foliaged plants 
should be examined from time to time for red spider, Be- 
gonia mite and other insect pests. Should any of these appear, 
the leaves should be sponged with some insecticide. It should 
be borne in mind that only the injury caused by the mite and not 
the mite itself is visible to the naked eye. 

Streptocarpus. Keep all plants near the glass, affording 
them shade in the middle of the day, and syringing them daily, 
morning and evening. When necessary, change them into larger 
pots, potting them in a compost of loam, leaf -mold and dry cow- 
manure taken from an open pasture. Good drainage should be 
afforded and they should be kept in a temperature of seventy 
degrees Fahrenheit by night and in a moist atmosphere until 
showing flower, when they should be allowed a dry atmosphere. 

Chrysanthemums. Be on the watch tor black aphis and green 
fly, and if any are discovered dust the leaves with tobacco-powder 
in the early morning when the foliage is damp. 

Make all growths secure b)^ staking each stem to light stakes 
so as to prevent swaying by the wind. If the pots are full of 
roots, give light dressing of manure about the roots, or water 
with liquid-manure about twice a week. 

SEPTEMBER. 

Trees and shrubs which show signs of flagging should receive 
attention and be given water at the roots otherwise they may 
be greatly injured, especially if the weather should continue 
hot as it often does during the greater part of this month. 

Spanish and German Irises, having ripened their bulbs, may 
now be taken up. The ground in which they are to be replanted 

[ ZC^2 ] 



Calendar of Operations 



should be dug deeply and well-fertilized with old rotted manure. 
The bulbs should be set out early in November ; in the meantime 
have them sorted and placed in boxes in a cool dry place. 

Propagate cuttings of all bedding plants as early in the 
month as practicable so that they may be well established before 
wet weather and dark days arrive. 

Tuberous rooted Begonias should now be at their best; 
encourage them to prolong their flowering season by giving them 
copious waterings and by giving the beds a light mulch of some 
suitable material such as very old stable-manure or leaf-mold. 

Beds of Asters and other annuals which have ceased to bloom 
should be cleared of all old plants; if it is intended to fill the 
beds for Winter and Spring flowering, have the ground spaded 
over and apply a good dressing of soot. If the beds were man- 
ured in Spring, no manure will now be required. Plant the beds 
with Wallflowers, Myosotis, Silene, Pansies, Aubretias, Viola 
cornuta, etc., planting them as soon as convenient so that they 
may get well-established before cold weather sets in. If planted 
early, they should begin blooming early in December and give 
abundance of flower all through the Winter and early Spring. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Poinsettias should be fully exposed to the sunshine from the 
present time on in order to mature and firm the growth. 

Let the last batch ot rooted plants be placed in their flower- 
ing-pots, which need not be larger than six-inch and the smaller 
plants will do better if given four-inch pots. 

Roman Hyacinths, Paper white and Double Narcissus. Pot 
about five bulbs in a six-inch pot filled with a good rich compost, 
and plunge the pots in ashes for a few weeks, covering the pots 
with sand or ashes to the depth of six inches, leaving them thus 
until the bulbs fill the pots with their young roots. A situation 
facing North is most suitable for the plunging bed. When the 

[ 3(^^3 ] 



Gardening in California 



pots are filled with roots, they may be brought into the green- 
house and gradually exposed to the light. Pot successive lots 
of bulbs so as to maintain a continuous supply of flowers from 
early in November until February when they begin blooming 
out of doors. 

Large-flowering Hyacinths. As soon as the bulbs arrive, 
have them unpacked at once and placed in a cool place until they 
can be potted. The most important point in Hyacinth growing 
is in the preparation of the soil which should be composed of 
good yellow loam, old dry cow-manure rubbed through a half- 
inch sieve, some coarse leaf-mold, and enough sand to keep it 
open. This compost should be well-mixed together by being 
turned over several times, and should be left to mellow at least 
one month before being used. For single bulbs of Hyacinths, 
use a pot having a diameter of five inches. Crock the pot by 
placing one flat piece of crock over the hole in the bottom of the 
pot; over this place two inches of potsherds broken into small 
pieces, and, to keep the soil from choking the drainage, above 
these place a thin layer of moss; then fill the pot loosely with 
the soil, making a hole with the hand for the reception of the 
bulb and placing a handful of sand in the cavity; on this place 
the bulb ; press down the bulb and soil together and make the soil 
firm with the fingers, leaving the crown of the bulb a little above 
the soil. Give a good watering and place out of doors on a bed 
of ashes on a site with a Northern exposure and cover to the depth 
of six inches as previously advised for Roman Hyacinths. Here 
they should remain for about six weeks when they should be 
examined, and, when the pots are well-filled with roots, they may 
be removed to a cool place in the greenhouse and gradually 
exposed to light and air, or to warmer quarters if desired to 
flower early. 

Hyacinths, to flower in glasses, should be solely of the single- 
flowering varieties, and only good-sized firm bulbs should be 
selected. Nearly fill the glasses with soft water (rain water 

[364] 



fk:A 



J^'i 



^:<'-: 



\^:. 







Summer House. Standard Roses on Border of Path. 



Calendar of Operations 



preferred); in the water place a few small pieces of charcoal; 
place the bulbs in the glasses so that the bases barely touch the 
water and place the glasses in a cool, dark situation until the roots 
nearly lill the glasses, when they may be placed in the greenhouse 
and gradually exposed to light but free from cold draughts. 
When it is desirable to transfer, to glasses, Hyacinths which 
have been grown in pots, their roots may be freed from soil by 
carefully dipping the ball in water and washing the roots, after 
which they may be placed in the Hyacinth glasses. A fresh 
batch of bulbs should be potted at intervals of three weeks until 
November, after which the bulbs seem to deteriorate. 

When desired, Tulips, Scillas, Crocuses, etc., may be grown. 
The same soil and treatment recommended for Hyacinths will 
be suitable for them also. 

OCTOBER. 

Pinks and Carnations. Cuttings and layers which were put 
in in July should now be well-rooted and ready to be planted in 
their permanent quarters. Examine the soil, and, if it looks the 
least sour or sticky, have it dug and left rough, giving it no water 
for at least two weeks; this treatment will greatly assist in 
sweetening the soil. After the soil has been well dried and aired, 
give it a good watering and again turn it over with the spade; 
level it, and, after raking it, mark the ground and plant the young 
plants, setting them out about eight inches apart. Do not allow 
the roots to become at all dry before they are planted. After 
planting, give a good watering with the watering-pot to settle the 
soil about the roots, afterwards giving a light sprinkle to the 
leaves. A light spraying every evening for a week after planting 
will greatly benefit the young plants. 

Dahlias should still afford a good show of flowers. See that 
they are all correctly labeled before the blooming season is over; 
remove all spent flowers and decaying leaves, and give copious' 
supplies of light liquid-manure during dry weather. 

[367] 



Gardening in California 



Chrysanthemums will now be showing bloom. Give them 
also a generous supply of water at their roots and apply liquid- 
manure once a week. When large flowers are desired, thin out 
the flower-buds to one bud to each stalk and see that the stems 
are well-secured by being tied to light stakes to prevent them 
being blown about by the Autumn winds. 

Fibrous-rooted Begonias, which have been occupying space in 
the flower-garden during the Summer, may now, if thought 
desirable, be taken up, potted and taken to the greenhouse where 
they will continue to flower most of the Winter. It is well to 
shade the plants for a week or ten days, after placing them in- 
doors, until they form new roots. 

Anemones may be planted during the present month; plant 
them six inches apart. One-half inch of soil should cover the 
crowns, and any good friable garden soil grows them well. 

Plant Cowslips, hardy Primroses, Cinerarias, Pansies, and 
other early Spring-flowering plants in their permanent quarters. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Cinerarias. The more forward plants should now be 
put into three-inch pots in a compost of loam, two-thirds 
leaf-soil and one-third dry cow-manure from an open pasture, 
with a little sand and a sprinkling of bone-meal added. Let them 
stand on a bed of ashes in a protected spot facing North. 

Calceolarias. Pot off the young plants of Calceolarias in 
two-inch pots and treat as recommended for Cinerarias. 

Primulas. The early plants will soon begin to show their 
flower-spikes. If the pots are full of roots, give them a little 
weak liquid-manure occasionally. Later plants, now in three- 
inch pots, should be transferred to others, five inches in diameter, 
if they are already well-rooted. This treatment will be suitable 
for not only Primula sinensis but also Primula stellata (a type 
which should be more commonly seen) and Primula obconica; 

[368] 



Calendar of Operations 



if well done, this will enable them to continue in bloom through- 
out the Winter. 

Caladiums. Where the more delicate varieties are grown, 
great care should be given them at this season. Many tubers are 
lost every year by being dried too rapidly. As soon as the leaves 
show signs of dying off, the plants should be placed in a position 
where they may receive the full light and be watered carefully, 
reducing the quantity of water as the foliage decays, and discon- 
tinuing it altogether when the foliage is all dry. When the tubers 
are ripe, allow the soil in the pots to become perfectly dry. 
The pots may be laid on their sides under the plant-stage or in 
any dry place where the temperature does not fall below fifty 
degrees Fahrenheit; they may remain there until wanted in early 
Spring. 

Ferns, which have been growing in a close and moist atmos- 
phere, should now be allowed more light and air, as soon as their 
growth is completed, in order to harden their fronds, as in this 
condition they are better prepared to withstand the cloudy days 
which may be expected during the next three months. 

NOVEMBER. 

Keep the lawn well-rolled and smoothly cut, removing all 
fallen leaves. The latter can be much more easily swept up 
when the grass is smooth and short than when it is otherwise. 
The walks should be kept well rolled and their edgings neatly 
cut. When walks, edgings and lawns are neatly kept, the garden 
always looks well even though flowers and color may be scarce. 

Examine Lily bulbs carefully as soon as their leaves have 
fallen and their stems are dead, to see if they are attacked by 
wire-worms. Should cut, wire or other worms be found at work 
in the bulbs, take the bulbs up at once and dip them in water 
strongly diluted with soot, and, as soon as the bulbs have been 
cleared of the pest, plant them, in a different part of the garden, 

[369] 



Gardening in California 



in fresh soil in which no worms or other vermin are to be found. 
The soil should be rich and soft with no rocks or hard clay in its 
composition. Plant so that the top of the bulb will be two or 
three inches under the soil. 

Tuberous Begonias, which have ceased to grow or flower, 
should have their stems cleared of all decaying leaves, and their 
tubers lifted and shaken clear of soil ; place them in boxes half- 
filled with sandy leaf-mold, and store in a cool dry place where 
they may be kept until required for replanting in the Spring. 

Dahlias also, as soon as their tops are ripe and their flowering 
ceases, should have their stems cut down to within a foot of the 
ground and their roots lifted and freed from all soil. After 
attaching labels to each, place them in a cool, dry shed tor a few 
weeks and then store them away for the Winter. 

Montbretias, where they have got matted too thickh^ should 
be taken up and the best bulbs selected and replanted in other 
quarters, or, if in the same ground, after the soil has been dug 
over two feet deep and enriched by a heavy layer of manure well- 
mixed through the soil. 

Other hardy bulbs, such as Iris Ksempferi, and Iris Ger- 
manica as well as the Spanish and English varieties, should be 
closely examined, and, if the bulbs are at all crowded, taken up. 
Have the ground spaded and enriched by a heavy coating of 
manure and the plants replanted. Most of the Iris prefer a moist 
situation and a rich soil. 

Lobelia cardinalis. Cut down old flower-stems and divide 
the crowns; replant them, where they are desired to bloom, in 
good rich loam. This same treatment may be given to the her- 
baceous plants such as perennial Phlox, Doronicums, Delphi- 
nums, Tritonias, etc. Vacant spaces may still be planted with 
Tulips, Hyacinths, Daffodils and other Spring-flowering bulbs, 
planting as recommended in a former month. 

Myosotis should be planted freely in any dry bank as soon 
as the rains have sufficiently moistened the soil. 

[370] 



Calendar of Operation 



Primroses and Cowslips (if this has not already been done) 
should have the crowns divided, and replanted singly about six 
inches apart after the soil has been cultivated and enriched. 

Canterbury Bells may be set out in suitably prepared spots. 
These plants look exceedingly well in clumps or groups. Plant 
them about eighteen inches apart and not too deep. 

When it is desirable to plant evergreen shrubs or trees, No- 
vember is one of the best months for doing the work. Camel- 
lias, Rhododendrons, Magnolias, Laurels, Pittosporums and 
other hardy evergreens move well at this season. See that the 
soil is in good condition, neither too wet so that it becomes sticky 
with working, nor so dry that it does not break softly. It should 
be moist, without being wet or soggy, so that it will rest kindly 
among the fine fibrous roots. Working the soil among the roots 
with the fingers is still the best way to manage this very import- 
ant part of transplanting either flowering plants or shrubs. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Palms and other smooth-leaved evergreens, such as Cro- 
tons, Marantas, Cycas, etc., which may be infested with 
scale, should be carefully sponged and cleaned, using a little 
soap and plenty of clean tepid water. Keep Cyclamen plants 
near the roof-glass. Should any of the plants require repotting, 
pot them in a compost of three parts good friable loam and one 
part leaf-mold with enough silver-sand to keep the soil free 
and open. Should the foliage be attacked by Mites, which will 
be shown first by the rusty appearance of the foliage, dip the 
leaves in a strong solution of tobacco-water, two or three times, 
at intervals of two days. Keep at a temperature of about fifty 
degrees Fahrenheit. 

Calceolarias. In order to have healthy, strong plants, careful 
attention must be paid to their roots; repotting at the proper 
time is very essential. Should the operation be delayed too long, 

[371 ] 



Gardening in California 



the plants become stunted and rarely recover from the neglect. 
They should be moved just as soon as the roots have well-occu- 
pied the soil. Keep the plants in a cool half-shaded position 
away from fire-heat and dry air. While giving them plenty of 
ventilation, no cold draughts should be allowed to reach their 
foliage. Should green fly attack the leaves, fumigate at once, 
and, if necessary, two evenings in succession, until all trace of the 
aphides disappears. 

DECEMBER. 

When Lawns or grass edges have become uneven or in bad 
condition or partially worn, this will be found a good month to 
relay the sod. Low spots should have the sod raised. This is 
done by taking up the sod and leveling up with good rich soil, 
then relaying the sod and afterwards rolling or tamping it with 
the back of the spade until the whole is level and even. 

Where grass edgings are worn, the sod should be taken up, 
(being cut in squares of about one foot) and placed on the oppo- 
site side of the walk. After giving the ground a good coating of 
old manure, spade to the depth of twelve inches, breaking up the 
soil as fine as possible with the spade. Level and rake the ground 
into shape and relay the sod, putting each square into place as 
neatly as possible. Give a light sprinkling of sifted soil and a 
good soaking of water; the following day, tamp level with the 
back of the spade, making the whole solid and hard. After 
edging into line it should look as well as an old established lawn. 

Where new grounds are to be laid out and much planting to be 
done, December is one of the best months for the carrying for- 
ward of this work, also for the planting of most of our hardy trees 
and shrubs. 

Plant deciduous trees and shrubs, also Cypress, Pine, Laurel, 
Euonymus, Box and all hardy evergreens, leaving Eucalyptus, 
Pittosporum and most of the Australian groups until March. 

[372] 



o. 



^ 




Calendar of Operations 



Tlie pruning of Roses should be attended to this month; cut 
out, first, all weak or sickly growths and cut back all unripe soft 
shoots to firm, mature wood. 

Climbers should have their shoots thinned out where they are 
at all matted; cut out all hard, weak wood which does not pro- 
duce strong, young shoots. After pruning, tie all straggling 
shoots into place, and mulch with good manure about the roots 
of all Roses whether grown as standards, on trellises or in beds, 
leaving the mulching to be washed in by the Winter rains. Plant 
Roses in ground well trenched and manured. 

GREENHOUSE. 

Begonia Gloire de Lorraine. Propagate this plant by means 
of the leaves; remove the leaves, with a sharp knife, close down 
to the base of the leaf-stems, and place them in shallow pans 
filled with clean sharp sand or light sandy leaf-mold, selecting 
strong leaves for cuttings. 

Climbers should be freed from superfluous shoots, all growths 
too weak to produce flowers being removed and the strong shoots 
shortened. 

If any scale or other insects be found among the leaves or 
stems, the plants should be taken from the trellises and thor- 
oughly cleaned. 

See that Poinsettias and other flowering-plants are carefully 
watered at the roots and their flowers and bracts kept away from 
drip and damp. 

Keep all paths clean and give air freely during warm weather, 
opening the ventilators in the early part of the day and shutting 
them up again as soon as the temperature begins to fall in the 
afternoon. See that the foliage of all plants is kept clean and 
free from insects. 



Index 



Index 



Page 

Aaron's Beard (see Saxifraga 

sarmentosa) ... . . 273 

Abelia 59 

floribunda 59 

rupestris 59 

serrata 59 

triflora 59 

Abies (Fir) 60 

amabilis 60 

balsamea 60 

bracteata 60 

Cephalonica 60 

concolor 60 

Douglasii 60 

grandis 60 

magnifica 60 

Mertensiana . . . . 60, 61 

Morinda 60 

nobilis 60 

Pattoniana 60 

Nordmanniana 60 

pectinata 60 

Abutilon (Bell flower) ... 64 

admiration 64 

iire king 64 

purpurea 64 

Boule de Niege .... 64 

Acacia . . . 13, 48, 64, 326, 341 

armata 65 

Baileyana 65 

calamifolia 65 

cultriformis 65 

dealbata 65 

decurrens 65 

floribunda 65 

lineata 65 

longifolia . . . .55, 64-325 

lophantha 65 

melanoxylon 65 

mollissima 64, 65 

p'ycnantha 65 

riceana 65 

Acalypha 349, 358 



Page 

Acanthus 224 

mollis latifolius .... 224 

nigra 224 

spinosus 224 

Acer (Maple) 66 

campestre (English Maple) . 66 

circinatum 66 

Japonicum (Japanese Maple) 66 

macrophyllum 66 

negundo 66 

palmatum 67 

saccharinum (Sugar Maple) 66 

Schwedleri 66 

Achania (Turk's Cap) ... 67 

ACHIMENES 341 

Acroclinium 224 

Adiantum 299, 340 

capillus veneris .... 205 
Aesculus (Horse Chestnut) . 67 
Californica (Common Buck- 
eye) 68 

carnea 68 

glabra (Ohio Buckeye) . . 68 

hippocastanum .... 68 

Agapanthus (African Lily) . 181 

Agave (Century Plant) . . .217 

Ageratum 225 

Agrostema 225 

coronaria 225 

Albizzia Julibrissin . . . 63-327 
Alder. (See Alnus) .... 68 

324 

Allspice. (See Calycanthus) . 76 
Almond. (See Amygdalus) . 69 

Alnus (Alder) 68 

Alocasia 293, 340, 362 

Aloe 218, 342 

vera 218 

Aloysia Citriodora (Sweet 

Scented Verbena) . . .68 
Alsophila Australis .... 205 
Althcea Rosea (Hollyhock) . 226 
Alternanthera . . 335, 345, 353 



379 



Gardening in Californi 



Page 

Alyssum 227, 342 

alpestris (sweet) .... 227 

saxatile 227 

Amaranthus 227 

bicolor 227 

salicifolius 227 

tricolor 227 

Amaryllis 181 

belladona .181 

Imantophyllum miniatum . 182 
vallota purpurea .... 182 
Amophylla arenaria (Sea Bent 

Grass) 320 

Ampelopsis 170 

quinquefolia ( Virginia 

Creeper) 170 

tricuspidata (Boston Ivy) . 170 

Amygdalus (Almond) . . .69 

Anemone . . 227, 334, 342, 357, 368 

coronaria .... 227, 361 

fuljens 228 

Japonica .... 227, 228 

hepatica 227, 228 

Annuals . . . 334, 341, 350, 361 
Antirrhinum (Snap-dragon) 

228, 336, 353 

majus 228 

Aphides (Green or Brown Fly) 

272-303-304 

Black 304, 362 

Aponogeton 347 

Apple.. (See Pyrus) .... 148 

" 330 

Approaches to House .... 5 

April 346 

Aquilegia (Columbine) . . . 229 

caerulea 229 

chrysantha 229 

glandulosa 229 

Arabis 228, 342 

Aralia 68 

Araucaria 69-326 

Bidwellii 69 

Braziliensis ... . . 69 

Cookii 69 

excelsa ...... 69 

imbricata 69 

[ 



Page 

Arbutus 70 

Menziesii (Madrone) . 70 

unedo (Strawberry Tree) . 70 

Areca Baurii 293 

lutescens ... . 293 

sapida 293 

Aristolochia 170 

sipho (Dutchman's Pipe) . 170 

Aroides 190 

Arundinaria 210 

falcata 209, 210 

Hindsii 210 

Japonica .... . . 210 

metake 209 

Simonii 210 

Arundo 213. 214, 285 

conspicua 213 

donax 213, 214 

Ash. (See Fraxinus) . . . 110 
mountain. (See Pyrus acu- 

paria) 148 

mountain. (See Sorbus acu- 

paria) 156 

Asparagus plumosa .... 340 

springerii 340 

Aspect of Site 1 

Aspidistra lurid,\ 293 

lurida variegata .... 293 

AspLENiuM 205, 299 

Aster .... 229, 335. 345, 363 

Chinese annual .... 229 

Aubretia Deltoides . . 230, 363 

AucuBA Japonica 70 

aurea 70 

bicolor 70 

picta alba variegata .70 

August 358 

Auricula 342 

Australian Flame Tree. (See 

Sterculia) 159 

Azalea 71. 345, 348 

Azara Microphylla . ... 72 
Balsam. (See Impatiens) . .252 

Bamboos 211. 326, 347 

and Grasses 209 

Grouping of . . 13. 209, 213 
In Parlor-Gardening . . . 293 

380] 



Ind 



e X 



Page 
Bamboos — Continued 

Planting of ... . 209, 285 

Propagation of 210 

See Bambusa . . . 209, 210 

Situation for 209 

Water for ... . 209, 210 

Bambus.\ 210 

aurea 209 

Marmorea 210 

palmata 213 

quadrangularis 210 

Banksia 72 

Barley-seed 319 

Basins — Soil — for Water 

Plants 284 

Baskets, Hanging 340 

Wicker 346 

Bedding Plants 223 

Beech. (See Fagus sylvatici) . 106 

Begonia 230 

293, 297, 333, 336, 340, 342, 346, 

349, 353, 356, 361, 363, 368, 370 

Gloire de Lorraine . 349, 375 

rubra 230 

Vernon 230 

Begonia Mite 362 

Bell Flower. (See Abutilon) . 64 

Bellis (Daisy) 231 

perennis 231 

Benches, rustic 41 

Benthamia 7i 

Berberis 7Z 

aquifolium 72 

buxifolia 73 

Darwinii 73 

Japonica 7Z 

loxensis 72> 

Nepaulense 72> 

stenophylla 7Z 

Berberry. (See Berberis) . . 7Z 

Bermuda Grass 57 

Betula alba 74 

Bignonia 171 

capreolata 171 

cherere 171 

Tweediana 171 

venusta 171 

[381 



Page 

Birch, groups of . . 13, 209, 285 

(See Betula alba) .... 74 

Blechnum Braziliense . . . 205 

spicant 205 

BoccoNiA 232 

cordata 232 

frutescens 232 

integrifolia 232 

Bone Meal 349 

Bordeaux Mixture .... 303 
Boston Fern. (See Nephro- 

lepis exaltata) . . . 293, 340 

Bottom Heat 318 

Bottoming roads and walks . 44 

Bougainvillea 172 

glabra 172 

lateritia 172 

Saunderiana 172 

speciosa 172 

Bouvardia 74 

angustifolia 74 

jasminifiora 74 

scabra 74 

Boxes — Soil — for Water Plants 284 
Boxwood, Tree. (See Buxus) 

75, 372 

Breath of Heaven. (See 

Diosma) 96 

Broom. (See Cytissus) ... 93 
Spanish. (See Spartium jun- 

ceum) 157 

Buckeye. (See ^sculus) . . 67 
Buckthorn. (See Rhamnus) . 151 

Budding 311 

Bulbous and Tuberous Rooted 

Plants 181 

Bulbs, division of 317 

in Window-box .... 294 

examination of 369 

Buxus (Tree Boxwood) ... 75 

argentia 75 

aurea 75 

Balearica 75 

Japonica 75 

longifolia 75 

suffruticosa 75 

Butternut. (See Juglans) . .119 

] 



Gardening in California 



Page 

Cactus 219, 297, 342 

Caladium .... 340, 345, 369 
Caladium esculentum . 293, 342 
Calandrina caulescens. (See 

Portulaca) 265 

Calandrinia 232 

Calceolaria . . 353, 356, 368, 371 
Calendar of Operations . . . 329 

January 330 

February 334 

March 341 

April 346 

May 350 

June 354 

July 356 

August 358 

September 362 

October 367 

November 369 

December 372 

Calendula 232 

Callistemon 76 

Calliopsis 345 

Calochortus (Mariposa Lily) . 182 
Calycanthus (Carolina All- 
spice) 76 

Camellia . ... 77, 326, 371 
Campanula .... 233, 297, 341 

carpathica 233 

media (Canterbury Bells) . 233 

pyramidalis 233 

Camphor Tree. (See Laurus 

Camphora) 123 

Canary Islands Date Palm . 308 
Candytuft. (See Iberis) . . 252 
Canna (Indian Shot) 234, 347, 361 

Indica 234 

Canterbury Bells. (See Cam- 
panula) .... 233, 357, 371 

Caragana 77 

Carnation. ( See Dianthus cary- 

ophyllus) 241 

Carnation 

. . 299, 341, 353, 354, 357, 367 

Carpinus Betulus (Hornbeam) 78 

Carya (Hickory Tree) ... 78 

alba (Shell-bark Hickory) . 78 

[ 



Page 
Carya — Continued 

olivseformis ( Pecan Nut 

Tree) 78 

Cassia 79 

corymbosa 79 

Marylandica 79 

sophora 79 

Castanea (Chestnut) .... 79 
Casuarina (She-oak) ... 80 
Catchfly (Silene) . . . 274-298 
Caterpillars . . 272-306-307 

Ceanothus (California Lilac) . 80 
Cedars, grouping of .... 13 
Incense. (See Libocedrus) 127 

of Lebanon 81-326 

(See Cedrus) 81 

Cedrus 81 

Atlantica 81 

Deodora 81-326 

Libani (Cedar of Lebanon) . 81 

Celosia 234-333 

Centaurea (Cornflower) . . 235 

rugusina 235 

Century Plant. (See Agave) . 217 

Cerasus 82 

ilicifolia 82 

lauro-cerasus (English Lau- 
rel) 82 

serrulata 82 

Cereus 219 

Emoryii 220 

giganteus 220 

Cercis (Judas Tree) .... 83 

Cestrum 83 

aurantiacum 83 

elegans 83 

fasciculatum 83 

Chamearops 193 

excelsa 193 

humilis 193 

Cheiranthus (Wallflower) . . 235 

Cherries 304 

Chestnut. (See Castanea) . 79 

Horse. (See ^Esculus) . . 67 

Chinese Pink. (See Dianthus) 241 

Choisya ternata 84 



382 



I n d 



e X 



Page 

Chrysanthemum 236, 

348, 354, 355, 356, 361, 362, 368 

Anemone 237 

incurved 236 

Pompone 237 

recurved 2?)6 

Cineraria 

237-333-334, 353, 356, 358, 368 
CiSTUs (Rock Rose) .... 84 
Citrus aurantium (Sweet Or- 
ange) 85 

decumana (Shaddock) . . 85 

Japonica 85 

linita (Lime) 85 

limonei (Lemon) .... 85 
nobilis (Mandarin) ... 85 

trifoliata 85 

vulgaris (Bitter Orange) . 85 
Clay — Treatment of . . 38, 54 
Use in puddling lakes and 

ponds 281 

Clematis 172 

paniculata 172 

Clethr.a 86 

arborea .... . . 86 

quercifolia 86 

Clianthus 86 

puniceus 86 

Climbers .\nd Twiners 170, 355, 375 

Clover 57 

cob.ea scandens 173 

Cocos 194 

australis 194 

plumosa ... 9, 194, 195, 293 
Coffee Tree, Kentucky. (See 

Gymnocladus) 114 

Coffee, Wild. (See Rhamnus) 151 
Coleus . 340, 346, 349, 353, 356, 358 

Collinsia 342 

Columbine. (See Aquilegia) 

229, 342 

Cold or Cool Frame .... 317 
Conservatory — The Amateur's. 

(See Greenhouse) . . . 299 
Construction of Roads and 
Walks 40 

[383 



Page 
Coprosma (New Zealand Holly) 87 

Baueriana 87 

picturata 87 

variegata 87 

Coral Tree. (See Erythrina) . 98 
Coral Bush. (See Temple- 

tonia) 163 

Coreopsis 238 

Cornflower. (See Centaurea) . 

235, 336, 353 

Cornucopia Flower. (See Da- 
tura) 94 

Corn us (Dogwood) .... 87 

Florida 88 

Nutallii 87 

sanguinea 88 

Coronilla 88 

Corynocarpus 88 

Corypha australis .... 293 

Cosmos 238, 345 

Cotoneaster 89 

Cottonwood. (See Populus) . 324 
Cotyledon (Echeveria) . . . 220 
Cowslip. (See Primula) 

266, 350, 368, 371 

Co.xcoMB 353 

Crassula .... 220, 221, 342 

coccinea 221 

Crat^gus (Hawthorn) ... 89 
Cream Cup. (See Platystemon) 264 

Crocus 183, 367 

Crowning roads and walks . . 42 

Cryptomeria 90 

Cuppressus (Cypress) ... 90 

Lawsoniana 90 

Monterey 90 

Nutkatensis 91 

sempervirens (Italian 

Cypress) 90 

Cuttings, propagation by . . 314 

in hot-bed 317 

CvcAS 371 

Cyclamen 371 

Cydonia Japonica (Japanese 

Quince) 93 

alba 93 

Cyperius 347 

] 



Gardening in California 



Page 
Cypress. (See Cuppressus) . 

13, 48, 90, 326, 372 

Italian 359 

Montezuma. (See Tax- 

odium) 162 

Swamp. (See Taxodium) . 

162, 285 

Monterey . . . 90-324-325 

CySTOPTERIS FRAGILIS .... 205 

Cytissus (Broom) .... 93 

racemosus 93 

Daffodil. (See Narcissus) . 

187, 334, 370 

Dahlia 239, 335, 345, 

347, 353, 354, 356, 361, 367, 370 

imperialis 239 

Jaurezii ... ... 239 

variabilis 239 

Daisy. (See Bellis perennis) . 231 
Transvaal. (See Gerberia 

Jamiesonii) 246 

Dandelion 58 

Daphne 94 

Datura (Cornucopia flower) . 94 

arborea 94 

carnigera 94 

sanguinea 94 

suaveolens 94 

Davalia 299, 340 

Deciduous trees, shrubs and 
climbers ... 48, 330, 372 

December 372 

Delphinum (Larkspur) . 241, 370 

Deutzia 95, 356 

crenata 95 

gracilis 95 

Dianthus caryophyllus (Car- 
nation) 241 

Dianthus 243, 345 

Chinese Pink 243 

Sweet William . . . .243 
DicKSONiA Antartica .... 205 

Dieffenbachia 292 

Diervillea OR Weigelia ... 95 
Digitalis (Fox Glove) . . . 244 
DiosMA (Breath of Heaven) . 96 
Directions and Explanations . 309 



384 



Page 
Diseases of Plants. (See In- 
sects) 302 

Nature and Causes of . . 302 

mildew 302 

Ditches — drainage .... 39 
Division of the Bulbs . 317 

Dock 58 

Dogwood. (See Cornus) ... 87 

Dolichos 173 

DoRONicuM .... 244-334, 370 

Drac^na 46, 299 

terminalis 292 

Drainage 38 

ditches 39 

tiles 38 

with clay soil 38 

with rocks 38 

pipe 39 

Drains — tile 37 

Drives, location of .... 5 
(See Roads and Lawns) . 342 
Dutchman's Pipe. (See Aristo- 

lochia sipho) 170 

Dusting plants 303 

with tobacco 304 

with sulphur 305 

Eccremocarpus 173 

Echeveria (Cotyledon) 220, 342 

Echinocactus 219 

polycephalius 219 

viridescens 219 

Echium (Viper's Bugloss) . . 96 
Elder. (See Sambucus) . 154, 324 
Eleagnus (Wild Olive) ... 97 
Elm. (See Ulmus) . . 166, 326 
Erianthus Ravenn.e .... 213 

Erica (Heath) 97 

arborea 98 

capitata 98 

gracilis 98 

hybrida 98 

hymalis 98 

Mediterranea 98 

melanthera 98 

persoluta 98 

ventricosa 98 

Willmoreana 98 

] 



Ind 



e X 



Page 

Erythea 194 

armata (Blue Palm) . . .194 

edulis 194 

Erythrina (Coral Tree) . . 98 

Humei 98 

indica 98 

ESCALLONIA 99 

Montevidiensis .... 99 

rosea 99 

rubra 99 

EscHSCHOLTZiA ( California 

Poppy) ... 244, 336, 342 
EucALY'PTUS (Australian Gum) 

. . .13, 48, 100, 325, 323, 341 

amygdalina 103 

cornuta 100 

corymbosa 103 

corynocalyx 103 

ficifolia 100, 101 

globulus (Blue Gum) . . 100 

leucoxylon 100 

Landsdowniana .... 100 

piperita 100 

pyraformis 100 

saligna 100 

sideroxylon 103 

tetragous 100 

viminalis 103 

Eugenia 104 

latifolia or Smithiana . . 104 

myrtifolia 104 

EuLALiA J.\PONicA . . 213, 214, 285 

EuoNYMUs (Spindle Tree) 104, 372 

grandiflorus 105 

Japonica 105 

Japonica argentea . . . 105 

Japonica Due de Anjou . . 105 

latifolia 105 

Evergreens — time for planting 36 

ExocHORDiA (Spirea grandiflora) 105 

Explanations and Directions . 309 

Fabiana 106 

Fagus sylvatica (Beech) . . 106 
False Nutmeg Tree. (See Tor- 

reya) 165 

Fatsia 109 

horrida 109 



Page 
Fatsia — Continued 

Japonica 109 

papyrifera 109 

February 334 

Feather Grass 213 

Fernery, formation of, etc. . . 302 

Ferns 

202, 203, 293, 299, 339, 358, 369 

Boston 293 

Deer 205 

Five-fingered . . . 205, 293 
formation of fernery . . . 202 
growing in pots .... 206 

planting 206 

rockery for . . . 202, 205, 207 

soil for 202 

sword 205 

tree 203, 205 

watering 205 

Fertilizer, in sand reclamation 325 

Feverfew. (See Pyrethrum) . 266 

Ficus (Rubber Tree) . 107, 109, 340 

elastica .... 107, 109, 292 

Fig. (See Ficus) 107 

Indian. (See Opuntia or 
Prickly Pear) . . . .228 

Fir. (See Abies) 60 

Grouping of 13 

Pitch. (See Picea) . . .141 

Formal Approach 359 

Forget-me-not. (See Mvosotis) 

257, 361 

in window-box 298 

Foot-path. (See Walks.) . 

Fox Glove. (See Digitalis) 244, 342 

Frames, cool or cold .... 317 

garden 317 

hot 317 

Fraxinus (Ash) 110 

excelsior HO 

Fruit Trees 330 

Fuchsia . . . 245. 247, 294, 347 

Funkia 347 

Fumigation, of greenhouse . 

304, 305, 372 

by tent 307 

Gailardia 345, 353 



[385I 



Gardening in California 



Page 

Garden, selection of site for . 1 

preliminary plans for ... 1 

planting of 6, 12 

water for 280 

frames 317 

formal 317 

Gardenia Ill 

Fortmiei Ill 

radicans major . . . .111 

Gardening, parlor 292 

formal 321 

Gateway, location of ... 5 

Gazania 246 

Genista 112 

Geranium (Pelargonium) 

. . . .261, 293, 297, 299, 347 

ivy 294 

Gerberia Jamiesonii (Transvaal 

Daisy) 246 

Gesneria 354 

Geum 249 

GiLiA 249 

Ginkgo (Maidenhair Tree) . .112 
biloba laciniata . . . .112 

pendula 112 

Gladiolus .... 250. 342, 356 
Gleditchia (Honey Locust) . 112 

aquatica 113 

Chinese 113 

Japanese 113 

Gloxinia 341 

Golden Chain. (See Labur- 
num) 121 

Golden Feather. (See Pyreth- 

rum) 266 

Grading 6, 37 

roads and walks . . . 40, 44 

for lawns 54 

for lakes and ponds . . . 281 

Grafting 314 

cleft 314 

side 314 

whip 314 

Grasses 209 

Bermuda 57 

feather (Stipa pennata) . . 213 
for lawns 55 



Page 
Grasses — Continued 

grouping mixed .... 213 

Kentucky Blue 56 

orchard 215 

Pampas 213, 215 

Rye, English and Australian 

56, 57 

Sea Bent . . . 320, 323, 324 

seeds 54 

walks 321 

Green or brown fly. ( See 

Aphides) 272, 

. . 303, 347, 349, 362, 372 
Greenhouse. (See Conserva- 
tory) .... 
fumigation of 
care of — January 
February 
March 
April . 



May . 
June . 
July . 
August 
September 
October 
November 
December 



Grevillea 



fasciculata 

juniperini 

punicea 

robusta 

saligna 

Thelemanniana 

vestita .... 
Ground, preparation of 

grading of . . . 

grading for roads and 

for lawns 

platting . 

plowing . 

rolling 

trenching 
Grounds, arrangement of 

lawns, trees and shrubs in 12 

preliminary plans for . 1, 2, 12 



299 
304- 
333 
339 
345 
348 
353 
355 
357 
362 
363 
368 
371 
375 
113 
113 
113 
113 
IB 
113 
113 
113 
37 
37 
alks 40 



54 
6 

37, 40. 47 
40 
37 



386 



I n d 



e X 



Page 
Grounds — Continued 

surveying and platting of . 6 
Grouping trees and shrubs . . 13 

flowers 17 

Gum. (See Eucalyptus) . . . 100 

Blue 325 

Red 325 

Sweet. (See Liquidambar) 128 
Gymnocladus (Kentucky Coffee 

Tree) 114 

Gymnogramea 299 

Hakea 114 

Halesia 114 

hespida 114 

Hanging Baskets 340 

replanting of 340 

Harrowing 37, 40 

Hawthorn. (See Crataegus) . 89 

Groups of 13 

Heat, bottom 318 

Heath. (See Erica) .... 97 
Hedera helix (Ivy) .... 174 

Hedge 351 

Helianthus (Sunflower) . . 250 

multiflorus 251 

Heliotrope . . . .251, 297, 335 

common or Peruvianum . . 251 
Herbaceous and Bedding Plants 224 
Heteromeles arbutifolia . . 13 
Heuchera 251 

sanguinea 251 

Hickory. (See Carya) . ... 78 
Holly. (See Ilex) . . . .116 

native 13 

New Zealand. (See Co- 

prosma) 87 

Hollyhock. (See Althoea rosea) 

226, 336, 345, 357 

Honeysuckle. (See Lonicera) 176 

English 176 

Japanese 176 

Scrub. (See Banksia) . . . 72 
Hornbeam. (See Carpinus be- 

tulus) 78 

Horse-chestnut. (See ^scu- 

lus) 67 

Hose 17 



Page 

Hot-bed 317 

Hot frame 317 

Houseleek. ( See Semper- 

vivum) 223 

House, selection of site for . 1 

staking off 2 

Hyacinth 

183, 297, 333, 334, 363. 364, 370 
wood. (See Scilla) . . .190 

Hydrangea 115 

Hortensia 115 

Dr. Hogg 115 

Japonica 115 

paniculata 115 

Hymenosporum flavum . . 115 

Hypericum 116 

Androsianum 116 

Moserianum 116 

patulum 116 

Iberis (Candytuft) .... 252 

Ilex (Holly) 116 

opaca 117 

Impatiens (Balsam) .... 252 

Sultani 252 

Indian Fig. (See Opuntia) . 219 
Indian Shot. (See Canna) . 234 

Indigofera 117 

Insects injurious to plants . 

302, 339 

Aphides or Green Fly 272, 303 

Black Fly 304 

Caterpillars . . . 272, 306, 307 
fumigation for . . 304, 305, 307 
in window-box .... 298 

mite 362 

Red Spider .... 305, 306 
Rose-leaf roller .... 348 

Slugs 307 

Scale 307, 308 

Thrips 305 

Iochroma 118 

grandiflora US 

lanceolata US 

tubulosa 118 

Ipomea 174, 345 

Iresine . . . 253, 335, 345, 352 



387 



Gardening in California 



Page 

Iris .... 1S4. 334. 347, 362 

Florintini .... 184, 370 

Germanica 184 

Kaempferi .... 184, 370 

pumila . • 184 

Susiana 184 

tectorum 184 

isolepis 340 

Itea 118 

Virginica 118 

Ivy. (See Hedera helix) 174, 334 
Boston. (See Ampelopsis 

tricuspidata) 170 

IxiA 185 

Jacarandi.\ 119 

January 330 

Japanese Pagoda Tree. ( See 

Sophora) 156 

Jasmine. (See Jasminum offici- 

anale) . 175 

Jasminum 74 

nudifiorum 175 

officianale (Jasmine) . . 175 

Jonquil. (See Narcissus Jon- 

quila) 187 

Jubea 194 

spectabilis (Wine Palm) . 194 
Judas Tree. (See Cercis) . . 83 

JUGLANS 119 

Californica 119 

cinerea (Butternut) . .119 
nigro (Eastern Black Wal- 
nut) 199 

regia (English Walnut) . 119 

Seiboldiana 119 

July 356 

June 354 

Juniper. (See Juniperus) . . 120 

Juniperus 120 

Bermudiana 120 

Californica 120 

Chinensis 120 

communis 120 

Fortunis 120 

Virginiana 120 

sabina 120 

Suecica 120 

[ 



Page 
Juniperus — Continued 

procumbens 120 

Kennedya 175 

Kentia (Belmoriana) .... 292 
Kentucky Blue Grass ... 56 
Kentucky Coffee Tree. (See 

Gymnocladus) 114 

Kerria 121 

Kniphofia (Redhot Poker Plant) 185 
Kcelreuteria p.a^niculata . . 121 
Laburnum (Golden Chain) . 121 

Adami 121 

vulgare 121 

aureum .... 121 
'■ involutum . . 121 
" quercifolium . . . 121 
Watersii . . . .121 
Lady Washington. (See Pelar- 
gonium) 261 

Lagerstrcemeria (Crepe Myrtle) 122 
Lakes. (See Ponds, Lakes and 

the Water Garden) . . .280 
Landscapes, natural .... 13 
disposition of trees and 

shrubs in 20 

Lantana '122 

Larkspur. (See Delphinum) . 241 
Lasiandra (Pleroma) . . . 123 

macrantha 123 

Lastrea 205 

Latania Bourbonica 293 

Lathyrus odoratus (Sweet Pea) 175 

Laurel 104, 371, 372 

California. (See Umbellu- 

laria Californica) . . . 167 

English. (See Cerasus) . 82 

grouping of . . . .13, 14, 17 

Portuguese. (See Cerasus) 82 

Laurus camphora (Camphor 

Tree) 123 

nobilis 124 

Lawns 54, 343, 372 

grading for 54 

grasses for 55 

location of 8 

manure for 54 

outlines of 7, 53 

388] 



I nd 



e X 



Page 

Lawns — Continued 

preliminarj' work for ... 54 

raking 55 

rolling .... 54, 56, 369 

seed for 55 

soil for 54 

surroundings of .... 13 

water for 56 

weeds in 54, 57 

Layering, propagation by . .316 

Lemon. (See Citrus limonei) . 85 

Leptospermum .... 124, 325 

laveagatum ... 59, 124, 125 

Leucadendron (Silver Tree) . 127 

argentium . . . . . . 127 

Leveling the Ground . . 37, 44 

Libocedrus (Incense Cedar) . . 127 

Chilensis 127 

decurrens 127 

Dombiana 127 

Ligustrum (Privet) .... 128 

ibota 128 

Japonicum 128 

lucidum 128 

ovalifolium 128 

Lilac. (See Syringa) . . 161 

California. (See Ceanothus) 80 

European 161 

grouping of 13 

Japanese 161 

Persian 161 

LiLiuM 186 

auratum 186 

candidum (St. Joseph's Lily) 186 

giganteum 186 

Humboldtii 186 

lancefolium 186 

Pardalinum 186 

tigrinum 186 

Washingtonianum .... 186 

Lily. (See Lilium) .... 186 

African. (See Agapanthus) 181 
Calla. (See Richardia Ethi- 

opica) 190 

Calla 285, 347 

Mariposa. (See Calochortus) 182 



Page 
Lily — Continued 

Royal Purple. (See Nym- 

pholea Zanzibarensis) . 286 
St. Joseph's. (See Lilium 
Candidum) . : . . . 186 

Water 282, 289 

Lime for slugs 307 

(See Citrus linata) ... 85 
Linden. (See Tilia) . . . .165 

grouping of 14 

Liquidambar. (Sweet Gum) . 128 

styraciflua 128 

Liriodendron. (Tulip Tree) .129 

LiVISTONIA 197 

australis 197 

Chinensis 197 

Lobelia . . 253, 297, 333, 336, 347 
cardinalis 253, 254, 257, 353, 370 

speciosa 253 

Location of a Site .... 1 
Locust. (See Robinia) . . .152 
Honey. (See Gleditchia) . 113 
Lonicera. (Honeysuckle) . . 176 
Lot Planting Plan .... 

25' X 120' 20 

40' X 120' 21 

50' X 150' 22 

75' X 150' 23 

100' X 180' 24, 25 

150' X 200' 26, 27 

200' X 350' . . . .28, 29, 30 

300' X 400' .... 30. 31, 32 

ten acre tract 32. 33, 34, 35, 36 

Lotus. (See Nelumbium) 288, 346 

Lupin. (See Lupinus) . 254, 336 

Yellow 320 

Lupinus 254, 342 

arboreus 254 

bicolor 254 

chamosonis 254 

Lychnis . . 255 

Lyonothamnus 129 

Madrone. (See Arbutus) . . 70 
Magnolia .... 130,326,371 

acuminata 130 

conspicua 130 

grandiflora 130 



389 



Gardening in California 



Page 
Magnolia — Continued 

muscata 130 

obovata 130 

parviflora 130 

soulangiana 130 

stellata 130 

tripetala 130 

Maidenhair Tree. (See Ginkgo) 112 

Mamiliarias 219 

Goodrichii 219 

Grahamii 219 

Mandevillea suaveolens . . 177 

Manure, liquid 356 

use in trenching ... 38, 54 
use in planting and trans- 
planting 53 

use in preparing soil for 

lawns 54, 58 

use in mulching and top- 
dressing 310 

Maple. (See Acer) .... 66 

grouping of 13, 14 

Norway 324 

Maranta 293,371 

bicolor 293 

Zebrina 293 

March 341 

Marigold 345 

Marliacea Hybrids .... 286 
Matthiola. (Stock) . . . 255 

Maurandia 177 

May 350 

Maytenus 133 

boaria 59, 133 

Chilensis 133 

Medlar. (See Mespilus) . . 135 

Melaleuca 131, 133 

dicussata 133 

fulgens 133 

leucadendron . . . 131, 133 
Melia Azedarach. (Umbrella 

Tree) 134 

Melianthus major .... 135 
Mesembryanthemum .... 

220, 222, 294, 342 

aequilaterale 222 

australis 222 

[390 



Page 
Mesembryanthemum — Cont'd 

spectabilis 222 

versicolor 222 

Mespilus. (Medlar) . . . .135 
Japonica . . . . 134, 135 

Metrocederos 135 

robusta 135 

Mignonette. (See Reseda) . . 267 
Mignonette .... 297, 342, 357 

Mildew 272, 302, 303 

Grape Vine 302 

Hop 303 

Pear 303 

Powdery 302 

Rose 272, 302, 303 

treatment for 303 

MiMULUs 256 

cardinalis 256 

glutinosa 256 

luteus 256 

moschatus. (Musk) . . . 256 
Mock Orange. (See Philadel- 

phus) .... 140,356 

Montbretia 187,370 

MoRUS nigra. (Mulberry) . . 136 

MUEHLENBECKIA 178 

complexa 178 

Mulberry. (See Morus nigra) 136 
Mulching and top-dressing . 309 

flower beds 310 

lawns 310 

seeds 310 

trees and shrubs . . .53, 310 
Mullen. (See Verbascum) . 275 

MusA 257 

Cavendishii 257 

coccinea 257 

ensete 257 

MusK. (See Mimulus moscha- 
tus) 256 

Myosotis. (Forget-me-not) . 

257,363,370 

Myrica 136 

Myrtle. (See Eugenia) . . 104 
Common. (See Myrtus com- 
munis) 136 

] 



Ind 



e X 



Page 

Myrtle — Continued 

Crepe. (See Laegerstroe- 
meria) 122 

Myrtus. (Myrtle) . . . .136 

apiculata 137 

bullata 137 

communis 136 

Nandina 137 

domestica 137 

Narcissus. (Daffodil) 187,297,363 
Jonquilla. (Jonquil) . 189 

Nasturtium. (See Tropaeolum) 274 
Nasturtium . . . 293,294,342 

Nelumbium 285, 288 

alba grandiflorum .... 288 
luteum. (American Lotus) 288 
speciosum. (Egyptian Lotus) 288 

Nemophyll.\ . . . 258, 336, 341 

aurita 258 

insignis 258 

Nephrolepis exaltata. (See 
Boston Fern) 293 

Nerium. (Oleander) .... 137 

November 369 

Nursery Rows 317 

Nutmeg Tree, False. (See Tor- 

reya) 165 

Nymph^a 285, 346 

alba 286,291,346 

Caroliniana 285 

candidissima 286 

caerulea 286 

cromatella 346 

dentata 287 

Devoniensis 286 

exquisita 285 

fulgens 286 

lotus 287 

marliacca 346 

odorata 285,291 

rosea 286 

sulphurea 285 

tuberosa 286, 346 

Zanzibarensis. (Royal Purple 
Lily) 286 

Oak. (See Quercus) . . . .149 
Oak ... 13, 14, 324-331 



Page 

Oak — Continued 

Attacks of caterpillars . . 306 

Black 149 

Cork 149 

English 149,150 

Evergreen 150 

Live 149 

Pin 150 

Shrub or Scrub . . .13, 324 

Turkey 150 

White 149 

Willow 150 

October 367 

oenothera 258 

albicaulis 258 

biennis 258 

bistorta 258 

cheiranthifolia 258 

ovata 258 

Offsets 316 

propagation by 316 

Oleander. (See Nerium) . 18, 137 

Olearia 138 

Fosterii 138 

Gunnii 138 

Haastii 138 

Olea Europa. (Olive) . . .138 

Olive. (See Olea Europa) . . 138 
Wild. (See Eleagnus) . . 97 

Opuntia. (Indian Fig) . . . 219 

ficus indica 220 

litoralis 220 

prolifera 220 

Orange. (See Citrus) ... 85 
Mock. (See Philadelphus) 
140,356 

OSMUNDA 205 

OSMANTHUS 139 

aquifolium 139 

fragrans 139 

OxALis 259 

Padding — in staking trees . 52 

P^ONY 259 

Moutan 259 

officianalis 259 

Palms .... 193,358,371,373 
Blue. (See Erythea armata) 194 



[391 ] 



Gardening in California 



Page 
Palms — Continued 

Cabbage. (See Sabal Pal- 
metto) 198 

California Fan. (See Wash- 
ingtonia) .... 199,201 

Date 194,308 

for Conservatory .... 299 
Japanese Cane. (See Rhapis) 198 

moving 49 

potting 300,301 

Soil for 299 

Sidewalk 9, 193 

Wine. (See Jubea specta- 

bilis) 194 

Pampas Grass . . 213.215,283,285 

Pandanus utilis 292 

Panicum 340 

Pansy. (See Viola) . . . .276 
Pansy . . 297, 298, 357, 363, 368 

Papaver (Poppy) 260 

bracteatum 260 

daneborg 260 

orientalis 260 

shirley 260 

somniferum 260 

Papyrus antiquorum . 285, 347 

Parkinsonia 139 

Parlor Gardening 292 

Passiflora 179 

Paulownia 139 

Peacock-flower. ( See Poinci- 

ana) 145 

Pear 330 

Pelargonium (Geranium) . . 261 
Lady Washington .... 261 

Zonale 261. 297 

Pentstemon . 261, 336, 341, 352 
Pepper Tree. (See Schinus 

molle) 154 

Petunia . . . 262, 293, 335, 345 
Philadelphus (Mock Orange) 140 

coronarius 140 

Gordonianum 140 

grandiflora 140 

Phillyrea 140 

Phlox . . . 263, 341, 347, 370 
Drummondii . . 263, 335, 345 

[ 392 ] 



Page 
Phlox — Continued 

subulata 263 

Phcenix 

Canariensis .... 197, 

dactylifera 

reclinata 

rubicoli 

sylvestris 

Zelandica 198 

Photinia (California Redberry 

or Holly) 141 

Phyllostachyus . . . . . 210 

aurea 210 

henonis 209, 210 

nigra 210 

Phylocactus 219 

PiCEA (Pitch Fir) 141 

Pilea m usees a 340 

PiMELIA 142 

Pine. (See Pinus) 

. . . 13, 48, 142, 287, 372 

Austrian 324 

grouping of . . . . 17, 143 

Italian Stone 143 

maritime 324 

Monterey . . .142, 324, 325 

sugar 142 

yellow 324 

Pinks. (See Carnations) . . . 367 

Pinus (Pine) 142 

cembra 143 

halepensis 143 

insignis 142, 209 

Lambertiana 142 

Murrayana 142 

pinea 143 

rigida 142 

Pipe (Water) 17 

for lakes 282 

PiTTOSPORUM . . . 104, 144, 371 

crassifolium 144 

eugenoides 144 

nigricans 144 

tobira 144 

undulatum 144 

Plan, detailed 12, 18 

for lakes and ponds . . . 281 



Ind 



e X 



12 

7 

10 
2 

20 
21 
22 
23 
24, 25 
26, 27 
28, 29, 30 
30, 31, 32 



Plan — Continued 

of grounds and garden 
" planting, preparing 
grouping 
preliminary . 
planting — 
for lot 25' X 120' 
" " 40' X 120' 
•' " 50' X 150' 
" " 75' X 150' 
" " 100' X 180' 
" " 150' X 200' 
" " 200' X 350' 
" " 300' X 400' 
" " of 10 acres 

.... 32, 33, 34, 35, 36 
Plane Tree. (See Platanus) . 144 
Australian. (See Sterculia 

acerifolia) 159 

Planting and Transplanting . 47 
care of roots in .... 51 

grouping, etc 10, 13 

ferns 206 

harmony in 14 

on hill site 12 

operation of 48 

plan of. (See plan, planting) 

7, 47 

time for 47 

Plants, injuring road beds . . 33 
Plant Lice. (See Aphides) . 303 
Platanus (Plane Tree, Syca- 
more) 144 

Platystemon (Cream Cup) . . 264 
Pleasure Garden and Grounds^ 

planning of 12 

Pleroma. (See Lasiandra) . . 123 

Plow, sub-soil 37 

Plowing 37, 40, 47 

cross- 40 

Plum. (See Prunus) . . . 147 

Plumbago 145 

capensis 145 

Zealanica 145 

PoiNSETTiA . . 333, 357, 363, 375 

Poinciana (Peacock-flower) . 145 

pulcherrima 145 



Page Page 

Poinciana — Continued 

regia 145 

Polianthes tuberosa (Tube- 
rose) 189 

Polygala 146 

Dalmaisiana 146 

POLYPODIUM 205 

POLYSTICHUM 205 

Pomegranate. (See Punica gran- 

atum) 148 

Ponds, Lakes and the Water 

Garden 280 

bottom for 281 

excavating for 281 

piping for 282 

planning out 281 

plants for ... . 282, 285 

puddling 281 

size and shape . . . 280, 282 

soil boxes for .... 284 

staking out 281 

PONTODERIA CORDATA .... 347 

Poplar. (See Populus) . . . 146 

aspen 146 

Carolina 146 

grouping of 17 

Lombardy 146 

silver-leaved 146 

Poppy. (See Papaver) . 

.... 260, 336, 342, 353 
California. (See Esch- 

scholtzia) 244 

Matilija. (See Romneya 

Coulterii) 153 

shirley 260 

Populus (Poplar) 146 

Portulaca (Purslane) . . . 265 
Potato Vine. (See Solanum jas- 

minoides) 179 

Potentilla . . 265 

Pots, size, treatment, etc. 300, 301 

for ferns 206 

Potting 300, 301 

ferns 206 

Preparation of the Ground . . 37 

Pricking out 311 

Prickly Pear. (See Opuntia) 219 



[39^ 



Gardening in California 



Page 

Primrose. (See CEnothera). 258 

" (See Primula) . . 266 

.... 350, 368, 371 

Primula . . . 266-333, 358, 368 

Japonica 266 

obconica 266, 368 

sinensis .... 349, 353, 368 
Privet. (See Ligustrum) . . 128 
Propagation, by division of the 

BULBS 317 

by cuttings . . . 314, 317, 326 

" layering 316 

" offsets 316 

" suckers 315 

Prunus (Plum) 147 

mume 147 

pissardii 147 

sinensis flora pleno . . . 147 

triloba 147 

Pruning 330 

Pteris argyrea 293 

critica 293 

tremula 205 

Puddling ponds and lakes . . 281 
Punica granatum (Pomegran- 
ate) 148 

PuRSELANE. (See Portulaca) . 265 
Pyrethrum (Feverfew) 266, 333, 347 

roseum 267 

Pyrus (Apple) 148 

acuparia (Mountain Ash) . 149 

Americana 149 

Bellfleur 148 

floribunda .... 148, 149 

Japonica 149 

malus 149 

Quassia Extract 348 

QuERCUS (Oak) 149 

cerris • ■ 150 

palustris ISO 

phillos 150 

robur • • 150 

suber 150 

Virginiana 150 

Quince, Japanese. (See Cydonia 

Japonica) 93 

Raking, for lawns .... 54 

[ 



Page 

Ranunculus Asiaticus . . . 189 

Reclamation of sand .... 319 

by Sea Bent Grass. 320, 323, 324 

trees and shrubs used in 324, 325 

Redberry. (See Photinia) . . 141 

California 13 

Redhot Poker Plant. (See 

Kniphofia) 185 

Red Spider 305, 362 

Redwood. (See Sequoia) . . . 155 

grouping of 14 

Reseda (Mignonette) .... 267 
Rhamnus (Buckthorn) (Wild 

Coffee) 151 

Californicus 151 

Rhapis (Cane Palm) . . . .198 
flabelliformis (Japanese Cane 

Palm) 293 

Rhododendron . . . 151, 326, 371 

Californicum 152 

Catawbiense 152 

ponticum 152 

Richardia Ethiopica (Calla 

Lily) 190 

Roads 40 

bed of 44 

bottoming of 44 

construction of 40 

crowning 42 

finishing 46 

grading 40 

location of 5 

rock for 44 

rolling 45, 46 

shaping 44 

staking out 5 

through drifting sand . . 322 

RoBiNiA (Locust) 152 

RocHEA. (See Crassula cocci- 

nea) 361 

Rock, for beds of ponds and 

LAKES 282 

for draining 39 

" roads and walks . . 43, 44 
Rockery, Fern . . . 202, 207, 342 
Rock rose. (See Cistus) ... 84 

394] 



I nd 



e X 



Page 
Rolling, lawns . . . . 54, 56 
roads and walks . . 40, 44, 46 
RoMNEYA CouLTERii (Matilija 

Poppy) 153 

Roots, in planting and trans- 
planting 51 

in conservatory plants . . 333 

Rosa (Rose) 268 

Banksia 268, 270 

Bourbons 271 

Cherokees .... 268, 270 
Climbers . . . 271, 355, 375 

Diseases of 272 

Hybrid perpetuals . . 269, 271 

Manette 269 

Pillar 271 

Ramblers .... 268, 270 

Standard 365 

Tea 269, 270, 271 

Rose-leaf roller 348 

Rose. (See Rosa) 268 

299 

. . . 330, 348, 354, 358, 375 
RUST 272 

Rows, NURSERY 316 

Rubber Tree. ( See Ficus . ) 109, 326 

Rubber Plant (Ficus Elastica) 292 

Rye Grass 56 

Australian 57 

English 57 

Sabal Palmetto (Cabbage Palm) 198 

Blackburniana 198 

Mexicana 198 

umbraculifera 198 

Saggitaria 347 

Salix (Willow) 153 

alba 154 

Babylonica 154 

vitellina 154 

Salpiglosis 272, 335 

Salt, for slugs 307 

Salvia 273, 354 

patens 273 

Sambucus (Elder) .... 154 

aurea 154 

glauca 154 

racemosa 154 

[ 



Page 

Sand reclamation 319 

composition of sand . . . 319 

experiments in 319 

by Sea Bent Grass . 320, 324 

shifting sand 319 

trees used in . . . 324, 325 

fertilizer for 325 

Saxifraga 273, 342 

palmata 273 

sarmentosa (Aaron's Beard) 273 

Scabiosa 274 

Scale 307, 308 

ScHiNus molle (Pepper Tree) 154 

SciLLA (Wood Hyacinth) . 190, 367 

campanulata 191 

SCOLOPENDRUM 205 

Sea Bent Grass (Amophylla 

arenaria) 320 

culture of 324 

in shifting sand . . 320, 323 

Seaforthia 293 

elegans . 201 

Sedum 223, 342 

sempervivum 223 

Seed, grass 55 

Sempervivum (Houseleek) . . 223 

September 362 

Sequoia (Redwood) . . 155, 326 

gigantea 155 

sempervirens 155 

Service Tree. (See Sorbus do- 

mestica) 157 

She Oak. (See Casuarina) . . 80 

Shrubs 59 

form and habit .... 13 
deciduous . . . 48, 331, 372 
grouping ... 8, 11, 13 

hardy 13 

mulching 53 

planting 47 

preparing the ground for . 37 

selection of 7 

stakes for 52 

transplanting 47 

Shrubbery, effect 13 

planting of 13 

395] 



Gardening in Californi 



a 



Page 
SiLENE (Catchfly) . . 274, 298, 363 

compacta 274 

pendula 274, 361 

Silver Tree. (See Leucadendron) 127 

Site, aspect of 1 

for house and garden. . . 1 

grading of 6 

location of 1 

planting 7 

Slugs 307 

Snap-dragon. (See Antirrhi- 
num 228 

Snowball. (See Viburnum opu- 

lus sterilis) 168 

Soil, Black dobe .... 54, 58 
Brown loam . . . . 54, 58 

Clay 37, 54 

Drainage of 37 

for cacti 219 

for ferns .... 203, 205 

for lawns 54, 58 

for palms 299 

for water plants .... 285 
for window-box .... 294 
grading of . .6, 17, 40, 54 

harrowing 37 

mulching 53 

plowing . . . 37, 40, 47 
sandy . . .37. 54, 58, 319 

saving of 6, 41 

subsoil 37 

surface 37, 40 

trenching . . . 37, 54, 330 
use in planting and trans- 
planting 47, 51 

Soil-boxes or basins for water 

PLANTS 284 

Solanum 179 

jasminoides (Potato Vine) 179 

Wendlandii 179 

Soot, remedy for slugs . . . 306 

Sophora 156 

Japonica (Japanese Pagoda 

Tree) 156 

Sorbus acuparia { Mountain 

ash) 156 

Americana 157 



396 



Page 
SoRBUS — Continued 

domestica 157 

sambucifolia 157 

Sowing grass seed .... 55 

Spading 330 

Spanish Broom. (See Spartium 

junceum) 157 

Spartium junceum (Spanish 

Broom) 157 

Spindle Tree. (See Euonymus) 104 

Spirea 158 

aruncus 158, 347 

Chinensis 158 

Douglassii 158 

dumosa 158 

grandiflora. (See Exochor- 

dia) 105 

Japonica 158 

Lindleyana 158 

lobata 158 

media 158 

millefolia 158 

opulifolia 158 

palmata 158 

prunifolia 158 

Sponging palms 358 

window-box plants . . . 298 

Spruce 13 

Stables, staking off .... 6 

Staking off, house site ... 2 

roads and walks . . . 5, 40 

stables 6 

trees 52 

Stakes, for house site . . 3, 5 

for roads and walks . . 5, 40 

for stables 6 

for transplanting .... 52 

for treiTjching 37 

grade 41, 43 

line 40 

witness 43 

Sterculia 159 

acerifolia (Australian Flame 

Tree) 159 

diversifolia 159 

platanifolia 159 

Stip.\ penn.'vta (Feather Grass) 213 

} 



Ind 



e X 



Page 
Stock. (See Alatthiola) . 

255, 336, 345, 357 

Strawberry Tree.. (See Arbu- 
tus) 70 

Streptocarpus 362 

Streptosolen 159 

Styrax 160 

serrulata 160 

Subsoil 37 

plowing 37 

Succulents 217 

Suckers, propagation by . . . 315 

Sulphur for mildew .... 303 

Summer-house 365 

Sunflower. (See Helianthus) 250 

Swainsonia 160 

Sweet Pea. (See Lathyrus odo- 

ratus) . . 175, 336, 341, 353 

Sweet William. (See Dianthus) 243 
Sycamore. (See Platanus) . 

19, 144, 324 

Syncarpia 160 

laurifolia 160 

Syringing plants . . 333, 355, 362 

Syringa (Lilac) 161 

Japonica 161 

Persica 161 

vulgaris 161 

Tamarix 162 

Gallica 162 

Orientalis 162 

parviflora 162 

plumosa 162 

Tank, water 18 

Taxodium (Swamp Cypress). 162 

distichum 162 

mucronata ( Montezuma Cy- 
press) 162 

Taxus (Yew) 163 

baccata 163 

argentea .... 163 

aurea 163 

fastigiata .... 163 

Templetonia (Coral Bush) . 163 

Terraced front 337 

Thistle 58 

Thrips 305 



Page 

Thuya 164 

gigantea 164 

Occidentalis 164 

Orientalis 164 

Thuyopsis dolobrata .... 165 

Tigridia 191 

Tiles, drainage 38 

Tilia (Linden) 165 

Tobacco, for green fly . 303, 348 

fumigation with .... 304 

Top-dressing. (See mulching) 309 

ToRREYA (False Nutmeg Tree) 165 

Coulterii 165 

grandis 165 

Tradescantias 340 

Transplanting 47 

care of roots in 51 

deciduous trees and shrubs . 48 

Eucalyptus and Acacia . . 48 

hole for, size and shape, etc. 48 

operation of 48 

Pine and Cypress .... 48 

staking 52 

time for 47 

Transvaal Daisy. (See Ger- 

beria Jamiesonii) .... 246 

Trees 59 

Blending of groups ... 13 

column-shaped .... 17 

deciduous ... 14, 48, 372 

disposition of 14 

evergreens . . 14, 47, 48, 371 

form- and habit 14 

grouping of . . 8, 11, 13 

hardy 7, 13 

mapping out H 

planting and transplanting . 47 

preparation of the ground for 37 

pyramidal 14 

roots, care of 51 

round-headed 14 

selection of 7 

staking 52 

Trenching ^7 

for lawns 54 

Tristania 166 

Tritoma 370 



397 



Gardening in California 



Page 
Trop^olum (Nasturtium) . . 274 

speciosa 275 

tuberosum 275 

Tuberose. (See Polianthes tube- 

rosa) 189 

Tuberous rooted plants . . . 181 
Tulip . 191, 297, 298, 334, 367, 370 
Tulip Tree. (See Lirioden- 

dron) 128 

Turk's Cap. (See Achania) . . 67 

Tyd^a 341 

Ulmus (Elm) 166 

Americana 166 

campestris 166 

scabra 166 

Umbellularia Californica (Cal- 
ifornia Laurel) .... 167 
Umbrella Tree. (See Melia 

Azedarach) 134 

Umbrella Plant 347 

Verbascum (Mullen) . . . 275 

Verbena 275, 336, 345 

Sweet scented. (See Alo- 
ysia citriodora) .... 68 

Veronica 104, 167 

Andersonii 168 

buxifolia 168 

Colensoi 168 

decussata ... 59, 167, 168 

elliptica 168 

Viburnum 168 

Japonicum 169 

macrophyllum 169 

opulus sterilis (Snowball) . 168 

tinus 168 

tomentosum 169 

Victoria regia 287 

Viola (Pansy) 276 

cornuta or horned violet 

277, 298, 363 

odorata (Violet) . . . .278 
Violet. (See Viola odorata) . 278 

California 278 

Marie Louise 278 

Neapolitan 278 

Princess of Wales . . . 278 
Violet 297, 341, 361 

[398 



Page 
Viper's Bugloss. (See Echium) 96 

ViRGILIA lutea 169 

Virginia Creeper. (See Ampel- 

opsis quinquefolia) . . . 170 

Walks 40, 369 

bed of 44 

bottoming 44 

construction of 40 

crowning 42 

finishing 46 

grading 40, 44 

grass 321 

location of 5 

rock for 44 

rolling 44, 46 

shaping 44 

staking off 5, 40 

Wallflower. (See Cheiranthus) 

235, 357, 363 

Walnut. (See Juglans) . . .119 
Washingtonia (California Fan 

Palm) 199 

filifera 201 

Sonorea 201 

Water, distribution of ... 17 

drainage of 38 

for bamboos . . . 209, 210 

for ferns 205 

for lawns 56 

for trees and shrubs . . . 362 
for window-box plants . . 297 
for 3'oung seedlings . . .311 

-garden 280 

pipe 17 

after transplanting ... 52 
stagnant in soil .... 39 

supply of 2, 17 

tank 18 

Water-lilies .... 284, 285 

boxes for 284 

setting out 285 

soil for 285 

varieties 284 

Weeds in lawns . . . . 54, 57 
Weigelia. (See Diervillea) 95, 356 
Whale-oil soap for aphides 303, 348 
Whin, European 146 



Ind 



e X 



Page 

WiGANDIA 333 

Wild Flowers .... 336, 342 

Willow. (See Salix) 153, 285, 287 

Babylonian weeping . 153, 291 

golden 153 

white 153 

Window-box 294 

care of and general treat- 
ment 297, 298 

drainage of 294 

insects injurious to . . . 298 

overhauling 297 

plants for 294 

size 294 

soil for . 294 

watering 297 



Page 

Wire worms 369 

Wistaria 180 

Japonica 180 

Mutijuga 180 

Sinensis 180 

speciosa 180 

Wood ashes for slugs. . . . 307 

Woodbine. (See Lonicera) . . 176 

WooDsiA 205 

Woodwardia .... 205, 293 
Yew. (See Taxus) . . . .163 

English 324, 326 

Irish or Florence Court . . 163 

Zinnia 278, 335, 345 



[399] 



CEO 33 









ii!;:i); 






